Features
Rainforest, Here I Come!
Part 30 PASSIONS OF A GLOBAL HOTELIER
Dr. Chandana (Chandi) Jayawardena DPhil
President – Chandi J. Associates Inc. Consulting, Canada
Founder & Administrator – Global Hospitality Forum
chandij@sympatico.ca
My Exciting Role in the Rainforest
In March 1994, just a few days after settling into my new role as General Manager of the largest hotel in Guyana – the Pegasus/Forte Crest – I embarked on a memorable four-hour journey by jeep and boat to an eco-resort in the rainforest. I was also managing this pioneering eco-resort, Timberhead, which stood as a testament to Guyana’s commitment to eco-tourism. Approximately 75% of Guyana is forested, with around 60% of this land classified as primary rainforest. The interior of this country, untouched and unspoiled, is undeniably beautiful.
For my first trip to the rainforest, I was joined by two Australians who worked under me. Tony Thorne, who managed the hotel’s travel business, Tropical Adventures, and oversaw its boat and pontoon operations, was an intriguing character.
A former army Sergeant Major in Australia, Tony was well-versed in forest survival and the ways of venomous snakes. Alongside him was Gavin O’Brien, a handyman skilled in boat maintenance and repairs. Gavin, with his laid-back attitude, and Tony, the ambitious go-getter, were both warm and friendly, eager to show me the ropes in the rainforest. Tony would later become one of Guyana’s most prominent tour operators.
During our long boat trip to Timberhead, I couldn’t help but ask, “How did you guys end up living in Guyana?” Their story was as adventurous as the places they’d been. As passionate cricket fans, they had abandoned their regular jobs in Australia to follow the Australian team on its international tours. Their travels took them across the Indian subcontinent, to England, and eventually to the West Indies. When they arrived in Guyana, they were drawn to the excitement of the adventure, and after befriending a couple of locals, they decided to settle in this unique land. They never returned home.
Our conversation was soon interrupted as I became captivated by the breathtaking beauty of the Demerara River, whose fertile banks produce some of the finest sugar in the world and are essential to Guyana’s rum industry. The distinctive caramel-like flavour of Demerara Sugar quickly won me over, and I found myself enjoying it not only in baking but also in beverages. I also developed a fondness for the local 21-year-old El Dorado Rum, produced by Demerara Distillers Limited, which became one of my favourites during my stay.
Although the (215 miles long) Demerara River is the third largest river in Guyana, it holds great significance due to its flow through Georgetown, the capital city, making it vital for commerce and shipping. The river’s mouth is very close to the Pegasus Hotel, where I worked and lived. The Berbice River, was the second largest in Guyana, , while the mighty Essequibo River, the largest at 630 miles long, flows through lush rainforests. It has a estuary over 20 miles wide.
The word Guyana comes from an indigenous Amerindian term, often interpreted as “Land of Many Waters,” reflecting the country’s vast rivers, waterways, and lush landscapes. Guyana is home to several Indigenous groups, such as the Arawak, Carib, and Warao, who maintain a deep connection to both the land and its waterways. Recently, the Amerindian population in Guyana has been gradually increasing, now making up over 10% of the country’s population. These Indigenous people, primarily living in the hinterland, play an essential role in preserving the country’s cultural heritage and biodiversity.
It was during this trip that I learned more about the importance of respecting the local communities, particularly in the interior regions. In the case of Timberhead, I was informed that it was essential for the resort to employ only Amerindian staff. This was not only a matter of respect for the local culture but also ensured the sustainability of the resort’s operations in this delicate ecosystem.
Timberhead Eco Resort
Timberhead was rustic, basic, and authentic – the real deal. The resort was a true retreat, with no electricity or hot water. It was developed in 1991 by Trust House Forte Hotels, following the recommendation of my predecessor, Paul Stevenson. The eco-resort quickly attracted VIP visitors, including former US President Jimmy Carter, who visited the resort during one of his most significant visits to Guyana to in 1992 when he and the Carter Centre played a key role in monitoring Guyana’s presidential elections. The Carter Centre is a non-profit organization dedicated to advancing peace, human rights, and health worldwide.
In the final month of Paul’s tenure, just before I arrived, he had the opportunity to host Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip at the Pegasus, where they also took a day trip to Timberhead. This royal visit brought widespread media attention to the eco-resort, not just in Guyana but also in the UK and beyond.
When I arrived in Guyana, the British High Commissioner handed me a framed photograph taken during the royal visit. The photograph depicted the Queen with the village headman (Captain) and others, taken at the Arawak village near the eco-resort, Santa Mission. Although some managers wanted to keep the photograph at the Pegasus, I made the decision to present it to the village Captain as a public relations gesture. After all, Timberhead’s employees were all from this Arawak village, and the Captain was essentially the resort’s supervisor.
During my first trip to Timberhead, I personally presented the photograph to the Captain. He accepted it with grace but didn’t smile. I realised that earning the trust of the village would take more than just gifts. The Amerindian communities were wary of outsiders, especially those from the city, let alone someone like me, who hailed from another continent.
After touring the village, I was taken back to the eco-resort in a larger pontoon with some tourists. Once there, we were served a delicious local dinner. I was introduced to a meat dish that tasted remarkably like chicken, but I was uncertain of its exact origin. When I asked one of the employees about the dish, she merely smiled and said, “This is our favourite – Laba.”
Naturally, I pressed further, but the employees remained tight-lipped. Tony, however, was quick to enlighten me. “Laba is a fat rat,” he said. “It’s commonly found in the forest.” In Guyana, Laba is a term used to describe the Agouti, a rodent native to the rainforest. The Agouti is often hunted for its meat, which is considered a delicacy in many rural and Indigenous communities. After this revelation, I made sure to inquire about the origin of every meat dish I encountered in the forest before sampling it.
My First Night in the Amazon
That night, I tried to fall asleep under the canopy of the rainforest, gazing up at the dark sky. Through the trees, I could just make out the half-moon and a scattering of stars. The atmosphere was unique, and at times, quite mysterious.
As I lay there, I was enveloped in the symphony of sounds that the rainforest provides. The rhythmic chirping of crickets and cicadas filled the air, their calls varying in frequency and intensity. I also heard the croaks and ribbits of frogs and toads, adding their own distinct voices to a natural night symphony in the rainforest.
Then came the eerie hoots of owls, their high-pitched, haunting calls echoing through the forest. The sounds seemed to unsettle me, alone in my rustic cottage in the middle of the jungle. Every so often, I caught the subtle fluttering of wings – bats, perhaps?
Nature continued its soundtrack, providing a soothing backdrop. The gentle rustling of leaves, the soft swish of a breeze through the tall trees, and the faint murmur of water all added to the ambiance. Then, the rain began, its rhythmic patter as the drops fell upon the thick canopy.
As I pulled the covers over myself and closed my eyes, I whispered, “Goodnight, rainforest.” The peace and the sound of the rain made it impossible not to drift into a deep sleep.
I woke with the first light of dawn, hearing the song of birds as they greeted the new day. The distant calls of howler monkeys punctuated the morning air, announcing that another day of adventure awaited in the beautiful rainforest. I thought to myself, “I love the Amazon!”
Kaieteur Falls
After my unforgettable first visit to Guyana’s interior, I was eager to explore more of the country and its neighbouring regions in South America. My next target was Kaieteur Falls, the tallest waterfall in Guyana, located deep in the heart of the rainforest.
Despite its impressive stature – a 741-foot drop, making it about four times higher than Niagara Falls and twice as high as Victoria Falls – Kaieteur Falls remains relatively unknown internationally for several reasons. Kaieteur Falls has not been marketed as aggressively as those world-famous waterfalls. The Kaieteur Falls are in a remote area, and the only way to access them is by small plane, which typically carries no more than six passengers. The lack of infrastructure and limited access have kept the falls off the tourist map, despite their remarkable beauty.
Guyana’s tourism industry remains underdeveloped compared to its larger neighbours, such as Brazil and Venezuela, which have long been popular tourist destinations. The nearby Angel Falls in Venezuela, the world’s tallest waterfall at 3,212 feet, often steals the spotlight, in South America.
After hearing my desire to visit Kaieteur Falls, my chauffeur in Guyana, David, acted as my advisor to protect me. “Mr. Chandi, have your heard what happened to the pre-opening General Manager and Chief Engineer who came from England to Guyana in 1968 to lead the Pegasus Hotel project?” When a shook my head to indicate that I did not, David continued.
They both went to see Kaieteur Falls in a single engine small plane. No one ever saw them after that!” “What happened?” I inquired still in my shock. “No one knows. No one found them or the plane during the last 25 years!” After hearing this I was slightly hesitant to visit. However, I made sure to book a flight with a two-engine plane and set off for the falls.
Despite its relative obscurity, Kaieteur Falls is a hidden gem – a peaceful, awe-inspiring destination that few get the chance to experience. The excursion turned out to be one of the most exhilarating I had ever experienced in over 100 countries, offering not only spectacular views but also a powerful reminder of Guyana’s commitment to eco-tourism and sustainable development.
The government’s efforts to preserve Kaieteur Falls and its surrounding environment ensure that this extraordinary landmark remains protected and unspoiled for future generations.
Guyana, with its lush rainforests, rivers, and natural wonders like Kaieteur Falls, is an uncharted paradise. Its eco-tourism initiatives, together with its rich cultural heritage and commitment to sustainable tourism, make it a truly unique destination. Having experienced its beauty first-hand, I can say with confidence: Rainforest, here I come!
Features
Addressing human rights needs multi-pronged approach
by Jehan Perera
The ongoing 63rd session of the United Nations Human Rights Council, which runs from September 7 to October 7, 2026, in Geneva is important to Sri Lanka. Its outcome will send a signal to other international actors, including the European Union, as to whether Sri Lanka’s reform policy is on track. The written update on Sri Lanka, prepared by the Office of the United Nations High Commissioner for Human Rights under High Commissioner Volker Türk and presented by Deputy High Commissioner Nada Al-Nashif, has taken a more holistic approach to the government’s performance over the past year. It acknowledged the progress Sri Lanka has made under the NPP government in relation to accountability for financial fraud and other economic crimes. At the same time, the High Commissioner’s update made clear that progress in relation to economic crime cannot be equated with progress in relation to accountability for grave human rights violations committed during the armed conflict and in other periods of political violence.
The government may have felt sufficiently confident that its response to the High Commissioner’s update could be handled by its representative in Geneva and did not require the attendance of Foreign Minister Vijitha Herath. Sri Lanka’s representative Sumith Dassanayake called for a fundamental review of country-specific mandates within the UN Human Rights Council. Sri Lanka has been facing repeated scrutiny in the form of successive UNHRC resolutions from 2012 onwards. Ambassador Dassanayake argued that such mandates should not continue indefinitely and must be regularly assessed against measurable objectives and tangible outcomes. This may reflect confidence that its record of reform is beginning to receive recognition internationally. The reports and statements at the Human Rights Council acknowledged progress in the government’s efforts to address corruption and economic crime.
The government’s anti-corruption drive has included investigations into allegations involving individuals who held the highest political offices in the country. The arrest of former President Ranil Wickremesinghe in connection with alleged misuse of public funds, and the investigation into the controversial SriLankan Airlines Airbus transaction involving former President Mahinda Rajapaksa’s son, are examples of the reach of these investigations. The arrest of SLPP National Organiser and Member of Parliament Namal Rajapaksa in connection with allegations relating to the Airbus purchase scandal has also demonstrated that the government is willing to pursue cases involving politically powerful figures.
Wide Range
The ongoing investigations appear to encompass a wide range of parliamentarians and government members, both past and present. They suggest that accountability for corruption is not being confined to lower-level officials or to individuals who lack political influence. This is precisely the kind of accountability that the public has long demanded and that previous governments have too often failed to deliver. The government is also reaching into the upper levels of the military hierarchies of the past. The case in which 11 young men, most of them Tamil, disappeared after being abducted in Colombo between 2008 and 2009 involved allegations that some families were asked to pay ransoms. The investigation into this case has reached senior military figures. The willingness to pursue such cases is important because it challenges the assumption that those who exercised power during the war are beyond the reach of the law. Such cases would provide a practical test of whether the government’s commitment to accountability for economic crimes is part of a broader commitment to the rule of law.
Success in prosecuting corruption cannot substitute for justice for those who were unlawfully killed, disappeared, tortured or otherwise victimised. The UN report noted that there had been no recognition or accountability for crimes under international law, gross human rights violations and serious violations of international humanitarian law committed by all parties during the war. The government has yet to establish a credible and effective process to address the many cases of enforced disappearance, extrajudicial killing, torture and other serious violations. The government needs to take the international commitments it has inherited on human rights issues seriously. It needs to adopt a multi-pronged approach and go beyond focusing primarily on financial and corruption-related accountability.
Need Action
As a member of the international community, Sri Lanka has a responsibility to abide by the commitments it has made. It cannot selectively uphold international obligations postponing those that are politically difficult. Also, as a small country, Sri Lanka has a self-interest in ensuring the survival of international law, which is all that it has to protect it from the depredations of the bigger international actors. The erosion of international law by powerful states makes it all the more important that smaller states uphold the principles on which the international system is based. Sri Lanka cannot credibly appeal to international law when it is threatened from outside while disregarding its own obligations within. Sri Lanka also needs to win the confidence of its own population that it is committed to justice and equality for all. Public opinion polls and community-level research have disclosed that ethnic and religious minorities are appreciative of the sense of greater security they enjoy under the present government from ethnic or religious extremists.
But a sense of security is not the same as the fulfilment of rights. As far as the Tamil people are concerned, the government has yet to deliver on several of its specific promises. These include the long-standing problems of missing persons, the release of political prisoners who have been members of Tamil militant organisations, and the return of land taken over for military purposes during the war. The issue of Buddhist statues and archaeological sites found on their properties which are then taken from their control continue to trouble them especially as they see no signs of resolution of those disputes. The issue of pastureland in the east of the country in Mylathamadu is particularly concerning to them as they see orders by successive presidents, both President Ranil Wickremesinghe and President Anura Kumara Dissanayake, being disregarded on the ground. The Mylathamadu pastureland dispute is where traditional Tamil dairy farmers have engaged in multi-year protests against the ongoing encroachment of their ancestral grazing lands by Sinhalese crop cultivators relocated under government development schemes.
The government’s failure to hold Provincial Council elections is particularly troubling. The provincial council system is the only one that can provide the Tamil people and other ethnic minorities the opportunity to wield political power and exercise a measure of self-determination in the areas in which they are the numerical majority. The continued postponement of Provincial Council elections therefore has consequences that go beyond an ordinary electoral delay. It deprives communities of an important constitutional avenue for democratic participation and power-sharing. The ethnic and religious minorities appreciate what the government is doing in the larger national interest, but they must not be made to feel that their special concerns are being ignored. The government cannot resolve Sri Lanka’s entire legacy of rights violations overnight. But it does need to demonstrate that it is willing to move forward on multiple fronts, not only on a few.
Features
The emptying university: why are academics leaving?
by Hasini Lecamwasam
Brain drain in Sri Lanka is at an all-time high. The latest Human Flight and Brain Drain Index for 2024 shows that we are 16th of 175 countries on this count, and first in South Asia. That this is a crisis goes without saying. Brain drain affects all sectors, and is a huge strain on the resources of a developing country. Particularly in Sri Lanka, where considerable public investment is made in the moulding of professionals through the system of free education, this amounts to transferring the resources of poorer countries to richer ones with top migration destinations. It is, therefore, important to consider the push and pull factors behind skilled outmigration, specifically from the public university system of Sri Lanka, a key focus of the Kuppi column.
From frustration to exit
Several bitter realities in our crumbling public university system act as push factors in the migration decisions of academics. Many essays on this column have, over several years, attempted to highlight numerous aspects of this erosion. Perhaps, primary among them is the lack of adequate funding, which has debilitating ramifications for the system: very little investment is made in the up-keep of infrastructure (and even less in its expansion), resulting in serious constraints in accommodating growing batches of students and the wellbeing of the staff (particularly in regional universities); research funding is negligible, severely curtailing academics’ ability to effectively discharge their primary duty of teaching which should ideally be informed by their research (and the research of others, access to which is also, unfortunately, mediated by funding); a funding crunch also means a slash in (or greater constraints on) recruitments, increasing the workloads of academics, currently in service, and eating into the quality of their teaching and research.
What recruitments are done frustrate those with any faith in merit. As many of our interventions in this column have shown, recruitment processes are characterised by archaic selection criteria that place very little weight on a candidate’s postgraduate growth and the advantages of interdisciplinary training. Added to this is the general preference for ‘culturally compliant’ candidates who would not rock the boat too much. The combined effect is that those with the capacity and spirit to try out innovations in education are discouraged from joining or staying on in the public university system. Some, or many, of them may instead seek appointments abroad.
A thread that binds all of these problems together is pervasive hierarchy which, again, many interventions on this column have sought to highlight. It is the interest in preserving hierarchy that leads to the preference for alumni in recruitment processes. Hierarchy within universities can be particularly frustrating for younger faculty and women, who typically have to bear the brunt of the workload of their senior, often male, colleagues. In a context of funding, and, therefore, recruitment, restrictions, this translates into a disproportionate burden being placed on junior (usually female) faculty, seriously hindering their prospects of growing into successful academics due to the time constraints within which they have to operate. Junior academics, therefore, are more likely to look to educational institutions abroad for what they hope would be a different work culture that respects them more.
Ideological ruses
On top of these structural frustrations are also the workings of neoliberal ideology. For one, the nature of relations between the global metropole and peripheral countries like Sri Lanka largely dictates what is desirable and what is not. The apparent lifestyles of Western countries – from food to clothing, housing, appliances, and so on – have continued to lure people from the periphery with the promise of a ‘better’ life, alongside better career advancement opportunities. This, of course, masks much of the struggle that goes on behind the scenes to survive in Western societies. For instance, in most cases highly attractive public infrastructure such as roads, public transport, clean air, quality control of food, and so on belie the astronomical privatised costs of healthcare and education. Health insurance is usually mandatory and steep in most high-income settings, while even subsidised education (for which eligibility criteria are strict) creates a serious dent in household earnings. Of course, the happy images of glossy trams and gleeful international travellers don’t convey this.
A second ideological ruse is the myth of greater opportunities and recognition abroad. While there is no denying that local skilled sectors – be it higher education, health, civil service, or private white-collar positions – are replete with issues that inhibit merit-based professional advancement, the notion that things are fundamentally different in Western countries stems from an uninformed optimism. As is now increasingly known and discussed, Western labour markets are notoriously racialised, and equivalent skills are rarely treated as such. Instead, it is usually demanded that skilled migrants clear certain formal examinations in their host countries. In fields like medicine, this is followed by an interview that may also be racially prejudiced. Once these initial steps are cleared, remuneration reverts to square one irrespective of experience accumulated abroad, not to mention the many subtle aggressions, rejections, and trials one has to go through in the negotiation of everyday life. In the many cases where professional qualifications are used as leverage for a move abroad, sights are set on a better future for one’s children, which again is informed by the misplaced faith in greater opportunities and a lack of awareness of the factors outlined above. Needless to say, in the global swing to the Right, things have become even more challenging. In such a context, considering the few rare cases where skilled migrants live extremely comfortable lives as the norm becomes a dangerous misconception.
The two ideological pull factors mentioned above are complemented by a push factor, which has to do with a highly classed understanding of what a white-collar professional is due in their society. Many of these aspirations are clearly articulated in academic trade union action demanding separate quotas for school entry, increased fuel allowances, winning back the presently stalled vehicle permit scheme, salary hikes, and so on. While working people have every right to agitate for better material conditions, insofar as it remains unconnected to a broader movement for improving the conditions of the lot of the working class, it remains self-serving and very much within the class logic of capitalist society. Since these demands are articulated as a means of maintaining distinction, it is clear that they are not envisaged as part of a class movement. The frustration of not having these needs for distinction satisfied may push some to seek greener pastures abroad, at least financially, (perhaps as a means of social mobility based on it), only to be disappointed on most occasions.
What is to be done?
Addressing the systemic push factors listed above requires, first and foremost, greater allocations for free public higher education. This would immediately translate into more recruitments and less work per academic, and better research and teaching in the long haul. An increase in funding would also ideally lead to greater infrastructural investments, especially including improving the living conditions of those who work in regional universities amid untold hardships. Next, fairer, more creative, and, therefore, more effective recruitment policies are badly needed to attract talented individuals to university positions. Rather than carving out a ‘special category’ for academics to achieve this purpose, which is informed by a classed logic, this needs to be done through fundamental reforms in recruitment processes. Third, a persistent attack on the entrenched hierarchy within universities through internal reform is much called for. Reforming recruitment practices will go a long way towards addressing this. Measures should also be taken to introduce more stringent policies against SGBV (not to mention ragging, even though it is not directly connected to brain drain). Such measures would create a safer, fairer, and more attractive workplace, which would give more reasons for people to stay.
On top of greater allocations, we also need a transformation of our aspirations themselves if this situation is to change. That necessitates a kind of education capable of questioning the ‘paradise’ conception of Western societies, and lays bare their colonial material and ideological dimensions, in both their historical and contemporary manifestations. These colonial understandings of the ‘good life’, moreover, have devastating ecological implications for the planet, not to mention social justice. An education with the ability to transform this mindset would hopefully prove to be more than a mere path to social mobility, rather being a tool of social emancipation that renders mobility moot.
(Hasini Lecamwasam is with the Department of Political Science, University of Peradeniya)
Kuppi is a politics and pedagogy happening on the margins of the lecture hall that parodies, subverts, and simultaneously reaffirms social hierarchies.
Features
Friends favourite Suzi Croner returns for Oktoberfest 2026
Charming audiences in Switzerland as Suzi Flückiger, Sri Lanka’s own Suzi Croner is coming home… for a very special occasion.
The bubbly former frontline vocalist of 90s band Friends will take the stage at a popular venue in Colombo for Oktoberfest 2026.
Known in Europe for her country and classic hits, Suzi has remained a much-loved name back home. This will be a rare chance for local fans to see her live and celebrate the voice behind so many Friends memories.
Oktoberfest 2026 in Colombo promises an evening of live music, traditional Bavarian food and beer, colourful dirndls and lederhosen, folk dancing, and plenty of community cheer.

Suzi Croner (Flückiger)
Against this lively backdrop, Suzi will take the stage for a special solo set, featuring her own pre-recorded music. She performed at the event last year too, as a solo artiste, but a German band providing the music.
This year, however she says, it’s a different scene.
“The novel attraction will be the dancers from Germany — all girls, clad in German outfits,” Suzi said. She added that the event will also highlight the activities generally connected with Oktoberfest, which should generate a lot of fun and excitement for those who join her in Colombo next month.
Suzi has become a much-in-demand artiste in Europe, and has even performed Down Under, in Melbourne.
In Switzerland, where she has been based for the past 42 years, she continues to charm audiences with country and classic hits, performing at private events and community nights across Europe.
“My weekends are generally loaded with my work as a singer,” she said. “And I also play tennis three times a week, because I need to keep fit to entertain my audience in an active way.”
Her repertoire is made up mainly of Swiss, German and English songs.
And true to form, Suzi loves springing surprises.
“So watch out when you join me at Oktoberfest 2026, in Colombo!” she said.
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