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Off the Beaten Track

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by Rajiva Wijesinha

The fourth in the series of travel books by Rajiva Wijesinha, written during the period of coronavirus restrictions, was published last month by S. Godage & Bros, and is now available at their bookshop next to Ananda College. The other three books are Exploring India which looks too at the other countries of South Asia; Around and About the Mediterranean which explores all the countries which abut on that inland sea, including two island countries, and also the countries of the Balkans; and To the Ends of the Earth which covers several countries in Latin America and in Sub-Saharan Africa and the four eastern Archipelagos of Asia.

This book, entitled Off the Beaten Track, looks at unusual travel destinations in the former Soviet Union, and then at former French and British colonies in South East Asia. Before these there is a vivid account, illustrated with beautiful photographs, of a visit to Iran in 2008, which covered the classic cities of Isfahan and Shiraz, but went further afield too to Susa and Ecbatana of the old Persian empire.

The ancient splendours of Kazakhstan follow, exquisite tombs and massive now ruined fortresses, and then the magnificent structures of Uzbekistan, the magical cities of Samarkand and Bukhara and the fortress city of Khiva, with an overnight journey back to Tashkent and then a drive into the mountains. Lesser known is Turkmenistan with the extensive ruins, only partially restored, of what had been massive centres of commerce in the Middle Ages.

From the eastern shores of the Caspian at Turkmenbashi, the narrative moves to Baku on its Western shore, and the various phases and beauties of Azerbaijan. These include, after a bus journey to the mountains in the north, the province of Nakchivan which has to be reached by air. In between is territory disputed with Armenia, the glorious monasteries of which are featured next, along with churches of different periods and stunning mountain scenery.

There follow brief descriptions of visits to the Soviet Union before it broke up, including an overnight train journey to Georgia and two visits by sea to the Ukrainian port of Odessa, where the writer wandered through a still sleepy city, with daily performances at the opera or the circus.

If these countries are well off the beaten track, the same is not true of the countries of Indo-China as it used to be known which are described next. But they were unusual destinations in the eighties and the early nineties. The writer was fortunate enough to get to Hanoi in 1984 when it was still suffering the after effects of the Vietnam War, and when he saw Angkor Wat in 1991 conditions were primitive and the Khmer Rouge lurked in the countryside beyond the walls of the enclaves.

The richness of the book is enhanced by the reproduction of the articles published after those visits in the Lanka Guardian and convey a range of reflections on the suffering the region had undergone and the resilience of its peoples. And the long account of several visits to Cambodia in the nineties records the aid programmes on offer and then the development of a political system that has relentlessly modernized while precluding any regime change. Contrasted with this is the sleepiness of Laos, where the central feature of the capital is a fountain with piped music of a period before the country was ravaged. And its old capital Luang Prabang, reached three decades ago in a tiny plane that swooped low over the hills, was even sleepier, offering a tranquil boat ride down the river and a exquisite little palace.

Malaysia too was relatively primitive when the writer first visited the place in 1969 and, though Singapore had begun to move forward, it was still possible to feel that Sri Lanka was infinitely better off, in those distant days. But then things changed rapidly, and the advance into modernity that has left us far behind is recorded through later visits. In between however were visits on the same ship that took the writer to Odessa, docking twice in Penang, with an earlier journey there by train when there still seemed danger from insurgent forces on the connecting train to Bangkok. In 1986 there was warnings about insurgents on the road across the central highlands of Malaysia, but by 1989 the train to Bangkok was comfortable and in 1990 travelling in Malaysia was absolutely safe.

Except in the extracts from earlier essays, this book is not a classic travelogue, but rather records simply a range of sights, with a host of evocative photographs. But there are also some human elements, an attempted seduction in the train to Tashkent, the variation on the theme of Romeo and Juliet in Kazakhstan, the drama of opera in Tbilisi and Yerevan; there are the difficulties of travel in a militaristic Burma in the mid-eighties, along with the joys of Pagan with evidence of the only international adventure of a Sri Lankan ruler, Parakramabahu of Polonnaruwa fame who also equipped a navy; there is the long friendship with a boy on a motorbike who picked the writer up in Phnom Penh, and then was transformed into a policeman in Sihanoukville where he also taught English. There are also two journeys with an eccentric English friend in the scenic highlands of Cambodia and then Laos, with the added bonus of the Preah Viharn temple on the drive back.

The pictures are all taken by the writer, except for records of Hanoi in the eighties supplied by his host there then, who also put him up in the nineties. Those capture the spirit of a country of cheerful youngsters, determined to leave the memory of the war behind them. There are few pictures of people otherwise, except for friends and travelling companions, but apart from the glorious architecture of the different countries there are also splendid scenes of sunrise and sunset, of rivers and waterfalls and mountains. The book does indeed bear witness to a wonderful world.



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Enduring charm of June weddings

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In white,every bride becomes a vision of timess elegance

June has long been celebrated as the month of brides, a season synonymous with romance, elegance and new beginnings . In Sri Lanka, where wedding are cherished as family occasions, every bride dreams of looking her absolute best on her special day. Few names in Sri Lanka are so closely associated with bridal beauty as Ramani Fernando, a pionear of Sri Lanka’s hair and beauty industry whose expertise has transferred countless brides over the decades. She has become a trusted authority on bridal styling, beauty trends and the act of creating timeless wedding looks. In this interview, Ramani Fernando shares her insights on the enduring appeal of June weddings, evolving bridal trends, and how today’s bride can achieve confidence and elegance on their big day!

(Q) Why is June traditionally known as the month of brides?

(A) June has long been associated with weddings because, historically, it was considered a month of prosperity, happiness, and new beginnings. In many cultures, it was believed to be an auspicious time to start married life. Over the years, this tradition has continued, making June one of the most popular wedding months around the world.

(Q) What makes June bridal unique in Sri Lanka?

(A) In Sri Lanka, June weddings often combine elegance with the beauty of the season. Brides tend to choose softer, lighter looks that complement the warm weather, while still embracing our rich cultural traditions. It’s a beautiful balance of timeless bridal glamour and modern sophistication.

(Q) What are the biggest beauty trends you are seeing this year in terms of dressing, hair, and makeup?

(A) This year, we are seeing a move towards effortless elegance. Brides are choosing natural, radiant makeup that enhances their features rather than masking them. Hairstyles are softer, with textured buns, romantic waves, and elegant ponytails. In fashion, classic silhouettes with modern details such as delicate embellishments and clean lines are very popular.

Radiating grace, beauty and joy

(Q) How have bridal hairstyles and makeup evolved over the years?

(A) When I first started, bridal looks were much more structured, with heavier makeup and very intricate hairstyles. Today, brides prefer a more natural and personalised approach. The focus is on enhancing individuality while ensuring the bride looks timeless, both in person and in photographs.

(Q) How can brides balance tradition and contemporary beauty trends?

Radiant bride in yellow

Where elegance meets expertise – Ramani’s signature touch for modern brides

(A) The key is to stay true to who you are. I always encourage brides to respect traditions that are meaningful to them while incorporating modern elements that reflect their personality. A bride should feel authentic, comfortable, and confident rather than simply following trends.

(Q) Beyond makeup and hair, what helps a bride feel confident on her wedding day?

(A) Confidence comes from preparation, self-belief, and being surrounded by people who genuinely support you. When a bride feels comfortable in her own skin, is well-rested, and knows she is loved, that confidence shines through far more than any beauty treatment ever could.

(Q) How has the bridal industry changed since you first started your career?

(A) The bridal industry has evolved tremendously. Brides today have access to global inspiration, through social media, and are much more informed about beauty, fashion, and styling. There is also greater emphasis on personalisation, allowing every bride to create a look that reflects their unique story and personality.

(Q) What has been your most memorable bridal transformation?

(A) It is difficult to choose just one because every bride is special. However, the most memorable transformations are often those where a bride sees herself in the mirror and becomes emotional—not because she looks different, but because she feels like the very best version of herself. Those moments stay with me forever.

(Q) What continues to inspire you after decades in the bridal industry?

(A) The joy of being part of one of the most important days in a person’s life continues to inspire me. Every bride brings a new story, a new dream, and a new vision. Seeing the happiness, confidence, and excitement on a bride’s face is what keeps my passion alive even after all these years.

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Silver jubilee of grace and elegance

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From Moscow to Colombo

The Russian Classical Ballet concert “Once upon a silver stage, conducted by the Russian School of Ballet and dancing, will be presented on June 27, 2026,at Sri Lanka’s iconic Nelum Pokuna Mahinda Rajapakse theatre Colombo with grandeur, This significant event will provide students with the opportunity to showcase their talent to thier proud parents. The School, which started with four little girls wanting to be prima ballerinas, celebrates its success and achievements of 25 years in its Silver Jubilee celebrations at this remarkable event.

(Q) What can audiences expect from this year’s ballet concert?

(A)We are expecting Russian Classical Ballet enthusiasts, parents, Diplomats and Ballet critics.

(Q) How does this performances differ from previous productions?

(A) The Russian School is celebrating its 25th anniversary in Sri Lanka, and the teachers have prepared a mesmerizing performance of Russian Classical Ballet to celebrate and to make the occasion memorable

(Q) What are the highlights of the programme?

(A) Over 700 students from age 4 to 45 years will be on one stage showcasing their talents on Russian Classical Ballet who are currently taking lessons at The Russian School of Ballet & Dancing

(Q) What challenges were involved in bringing such a large scale production to the stage?

(A) Training such a large number of students with variation of age is a challenge. We also face a challenge when it comes to accommodate the students in a Theatre in Sri Lanka. We have to perform the same show twice to make amends for that challenge

(Q) The school is celebrating a significant milestones. How has the journey evolved are the past 25 years?

(A) It is a wonderful progress, for a school which initiated with four little girls and standing tall and strong with 700 students maintaining it’s standards by the management, teacher, students and parents support.

(Q) How has interest in ballet grown among Sri Lankan students over the years?

(A) It’s an amazing interest. We are conducting classes from Monday to Saturday, weekdays from 2.00pm to 6.00pm and Saturdays from 8.00am to 6.00pm, with 12 teachers working through the week. We also maintain a waiting list with at least 500 students annually. We have a huge demand for the art of Russian Classical Ballet in Sri Lanka, not only in Colombo, but outstation, too. We can only accommodate the students for Russian Classical Examination annually with the Vaganova syllabus

(Q) What role does Russian ballet training play in shaping young dancers?

(A) The training does not only shape them in dancing and techniques. They also shape the qualities, discipline and talentsof students from their childhood, especially for little girls to become ladies.

(Q) What makes Russian classical ballet unique compared to other dance forms?

(A) Russian Classical Ballet is an old form of dance and which is highly athletic, expressive and strictly disciplined style of Ballet that originated in the 18th century in Russia which is also the most prominent dance form in the world today. We are privileged to be able to learn and share the art form in Sri Lanka through the Cultural Section of The Embassy of Russian Federation in Sri Lanka to the Ballet lovers.

(Q) How does the school contribute to cultural ties between Sri Lanka and Russia?

(A) The school constantly shares it’s knowledge with Sri Lankan ballet lovers and enthusiastic though examinations, concerts, dance recitals, performances and universities. The Russian Cultural Centre in Colombo has brought down Bolshoi Dancers, Russian Classical Ballets. Younust Dancers. Classical Music Performers many times to Sri Lanka since late the1990s.

Over 1500 students annually examined for Russian Classical Ballet graded exams in Sril Lanka under the guidance of Dr Oxana Karnovich.

(Q) How does ballet help bridge cultural boundaries?

(A) Ballet is an universal art which speaks its own language. Ballet connect different cultures, facilitate cross-cultural communication, and foster mutual understanding.

(Q) Are there plans for international collaborations or performances abroad?

(A) Yes. We are already collaborated with the National Ballet Academy in Moscow under the patronage of Dr Oxana Karnovich -Oxana Karnovich of the Moscow State Academy of Choreography. Holding the position of Senior Lecturer at the Department of Choreography and the History of Ballet at the Moscow State Academy of Choreography, Dr Oxana Karnovich chaired the examinations, while imparting invaluable knowledge and expertise to aspiring dancers as well as our brilliant and growing staff of teachers. Oxana is also an Associate Professor at the Department of Vocal Art and Opera in the Moscow State Institute of Music. With a Ph.D. in Art History and Criticism, her extensive academic background enriches the knowledge and expertise of both our students and teachers, highlighting the dedication to preserve the artistic heritage of ballet.

By Zanita Careem

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Sando: The missing warrior tusker of Ruhuna

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In the vast wilderness of southern Sri Lanka, where ancient forests merge with open grasslands and seasonal waterholes sustain an abundance of wildlife, few elephants have captured the imagination of nature lovers quite like Sando (T011).

A giant among giants, Sando is not merely another tusker roaming the forests of Ruhuna. He is a symbol of strength, dominance, resilience and mystery.

For years, his annual movements through the forests, bordering the Yala National Park, were eagerly anticipated by wildlife enthusiasts, safari operators, photographers and conservationists.

His arrival often signalled the beginning of a period of heightened excitement, within the park, where visitors hoped to catch a glimpse of one of Sri Lanka’s most iconic wild elephants.

Today, however, Sando’s whereabouts remain unknown.

His disappearance for nearly three years has sparked concern, speculation and heartbreak among those who have followed his remarkable journey through the wilderness. Yet despite the uncertainty, many refuse to abandon hope that the giant tusker still roams the forests of Ruhuna, hidden deep within landscapes rarely visited by humans.

According to wildlife enthusiast Chamdika Lakmal of Wild Tuskers of Sri Lanka, Sando represents one of the finest examples of Sri Lanka’s remaining wild tuskers.

He told The SundayIsland: “Sando is unlike most elephants we see in the southern region. His physical appearance, stature and confidence make him truly exceptional. Whenever he appeared, people knew they were witnessing a remarkable animal.’’

Sando primarily inhabited Blocks 3 and 4 of the Ruhuna National Park. During his annual musth period, usually between January and March, he undertook a well-documented journey through Buttala, Gonagan Ara and Galge before entering Yala National Park’s Block 1. These movements became familiar to many wildlife observers who followed his seasonal travels, year after year.

The annual migration was more than just a movement from one location to another. It was a dramatic display of nature’s hierarchy. Musth is a period of heightened testosterone levels in bull elephants, making them more aggressive and dominant. During this time, Sando transformed into an even more imposing figure.

Estimated to be between 35 and 45 years old, he was widely regarded as one of the most powerful bulls in the region. His immense size and fearless demeanour ensured that few rivals challenged him directly.

One of the most famous episodes, associated with Sando, involved a confrontation with Gamunu, another legendary tusker of Yala. The encounter reportedly resulted in Gamunu losing one of his tusks, further cementing Sando’s reputation as a dominant force among Sri Lanka’s wild elephants.

For many observers, however, Sando’s appeal extended beyond his strength.

Unlike the typical “Ruhunu Getaw” elephants commonly seen in the southern dry zone, Sando possessed a distinctive physique. His body proportions and overall appearance gave him the look of an ancient war elephant, the kind depicted in historical chronicles carrying kings and warriors into battle.

“Whenever you looked at him, you felt as if you were seeing a living relic from Sri Lanka’s ancient past,” Chamidika said. “He had an extraordinary presence that photographs could never fully capture.”

Sri Lanka’s tuskers are themselves a rarity. Wildlife experts estimate that only a small percentage of the country’s male elephants possess tusks. This makes animals such as Sando particularly valuable from both ecological and cultural perspectives.

Historically, tuskers occupied a special place in Sri Lankan society. They featured prominently in religious ceremonies, royal processions and folklore. Even today, they remain powerful symbols of national heritage.

Their rarity, however, also makes them vulnerable.

Throughout Sri Lanka, wild elephants continue to face numerous threats, including habitat fragmentation, human-elephant conflict, poaching and accidental deaths. Expanding agricultural activities, infrastructure development and increasing human settlements have placed growing pressure on elephant habitats.

For tuskers, the risks can be even greater.

Their ivory makes them attractive targets for poachers, despite strict wildlife protection laws. Across Asia and Africa, ivory poaching has devastated elephant populations, and conservationists remain vigilant against similar threats in Sri Lanka.

These concerns intensified earlier this year when wildlife officials discovered the carcass of a tusker in the Kotiyagala area. The animal’s tusks had reportedly been removed by poachers. News of the discovery spread rapidly among wildlife enthusiasts.

Because Sando had not been seen for such a long period, many feared the worst. Could the carcass belong to the missing giant?

The possibility sent shockwaves through Sri Lanka’s wildlife community.

For many photographers and safari operators who had spent years documenting Sando, the prospect was devastating. Social media platforms were flooded with expressions of concern and calls for further investigations.

Yet the mystery deepened.

A year earlier, skeletal remains, believed to belong to a tusker, had also been discovered near Buttala. Once again, fears emerged that Sando’s fate had finally been uncovered.

However, officials from the Department of Wildlife Conservation later determined that the skull was significantly smaller than what would be expected from an elephant of Sando’s size. The remains, therefore, could not be conclusively linked to the missing tusker.

For conservationists, this finding offered a glimmer of hope.

Despite the absence of confirmed sightings, there have been occasional reports from remote sections of Yala and surrounding forests describing a large tusker bearing a striking resemblance to Sando. None of these observations have been verified, but they continue to fuel optimism among wildlife enthusiasts.

According to Chamidika, history provides reasons to remain hopeful.

“There have been several instances where dominant bulls disappeared from their known ranges for many years before returning unexpectedly. Until there is definitive evidence, we should not assume the worst.”

Indeed, wildlife records contain numerous examples of mature bulls vanishing from familiar territories only to reappear years later.

Such behaviour may be linked to changes in habitat use, competition, food availability or breeding opportunities. Elephants are highly intelligent and adaptable animals capable of travelling vast distances through landscapes that remain inaccessible to people.

As August approaches, anticipation once again builds among those who know Sando’s traditional routes. Reports from Athiliwewa, Pelwatta, Gonagan Ara and Buttala will be monitored closely for any sign of the missing giant.

For now, Sando’s story remains one of Sri Lanka’s most compelling wildlife mysteries.

His disappearance has highlighted not only the challenges facing elephant conservation but also the deep emotional connection many Sri Lankans share with their wildlife.

In an era when biodiversity is under increasing pressure, the fate of a single tusker has become symbolic of a much larger struggle to protect the nation’s natural heritage.

Whether Sando eventually emerges from the forests of Ruhuna or remains forever a mystery, his legacy is already secure. He represents the wild spirit of Sri Lanka’s elephants—powerful, resilient and endlessly captivating.

Until definitive evidence proves otherwise, conservationists, safari guides, photographers and elephant lovers across the country will continue to hope that somewhere in the vast wilderness of the south, the warrior tusker of Ruhuna still walks unseen, carrying with him one of the greatest untold stories of Sri Lanka’s wild places.

By Ifham Nizam

 

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