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Nineteenth Century opulence : The story of Alfred House

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by Hugh Karunanayake

Nineteenth Century Ceylon boasted of many stately homes such as Queens House, Horagolla Walauwwa, and Alfred House. Alfred House achieved considerable fame as the venue for a much remembered dinner in 1870 to the visiting Prince of Wales, Prince Alfred then titled the Duke of Edinburgh. It was then a large mansion standing on 125 acres of land planted in coconut and cinnamon. The grounds of Alfred House covered almost the whole of Kollupitiya southwards from the present Walukarama Road to land adjacent to Station Road Bambalapitiya. Eastwards it covered almost the entirety of both sides of Thurstan Road and included the University premises as well as the grounds of Royal College up to Racecourse Avenue. It was easily the largest property in Colombo and the most valuable piece of real estate in Ceylon of the 19th Century.

The name Bagatelle seems to have originated when it was under the ownership of Arbuthnot and Co which appear to have owned it from the time it was offered for sale by the Government The property was first advertised for sale in the Ceylon Government Gazette of March 9, 1822 as” a thatched cottage with a tent roof, about two miles and half from the Fort of Colombo, to be disposed of by private contract.”

The owner at the time was believed to be a prominent businessman in the Fort with the quaint name Daddy Parsee.He was a well known businessman operating from No 4, King Street in the Fort being a key importer of luxury goods and wines into the island. It appears that he had defaulted in payment of dues to the govt. and hence the decision to sequester the property to recover dues. The Ceylon Almanacs of the 1840s lists Bagatelle Estate as a property owned by Arbuthnot and Co, who were agents for the Government of Ceylon in India, and who were the sole exporters of cinnamon from Ceylon which was a government monopoly at the time.

It would seem that Arbuthnot & Co acquired the property from the government in 1822.. A few years later the property was in the possesion of C.E Layard who lived there for many years. There is no information available as to whether the Layards owned the property (most likely) or were tenants, but during his period of residence C E Layard replaced the old thatched roof building with a substantial two storied house which was named Big Bagatelle. The Layards were an illustrious family from Bristol which was closely associated with the administration of public service and judicial institutions in Ceylon for many generations and have played a significant role in the colonial history of early British Ceylon.

Charles Edward Layard came out to Ceylon in 1803. He was the Collector of Kalutara in the first batch of Civil Servants. He had a house called “Mount Layard” on the banks of the Kalu Ganga. It is believed that the famous Teak Bungalow in Kalutara was situated there later. He retired in 1839 as District Judge Colombo North and died in 1854. He married at age-20 Barbara Bridgeteen Mooyart fourth child of Gualterus Mooyart, administrator of Jaffna under the Dutch. He had 26 children by this marriage of whom the youngest Barbara was born in Bagatelle in 1843 and died in a house called “Grimsthorpe” in Nuwara Eliya in 1914.

Layard was a great horticulturist and during his residence at Bagatelle had introduced several exotic plants to the island. Fertility seemed to have abounded there as in addition to the propagation of plants, we have the Layards with 26 children followed by the De Soysa with 14 children! Around the mid 1850s Susew de Soysa a pioneer native plantation owner became the owner of Bagatelle Estate. He was a pioneer coffee planter who together with his brother Jeronis, established initially in Hanguranketa Estate, and successfully steered his land holdings through the coffee crisis.

They later owned the biggest acreage of plantations in the island ever. Susew called his residence Bagatelle Walauwwa. His nephew Charles Henry de Soysa to whom the property passed on, demolished the old homestead and built a magnificent home comprising of around 100 rooms.The Fergusons Directory of 1871 lists Bagatelle as a cinnamon cum coconut estate of 125 acres.

The house was named Alfred House with the permission of Prince Alfred, the Duke of Edinburgh.who visited Ceylon in 1870. C.H. de Soysa died in 1890, He was bitten by a rabid dog that strayed into Alfred House on August 2, 1890.It was originally decided to take him to Paris for treatment, but he chose to remain in Ceylon and receive native treatment. When he passed away, he was buried outside the Holy Emmanuel Church, Moratuwa, next to his son who died in n his infancy. His mortal remains were laid to rest, amidst a gathering, then described as the largest seen in Ceylon in the 19th century. His wife who died in 1914 was laid to rest beside him. He left a large family of 14 sons and daughters to inherit an enormous estate which in addition to Alfred House included several thousand acres of coconut, tea and rubber lands spread around the island.

Over the years, the 125-acre Alfred House Estate underwent several sub divisions, some major changes being precipitated by the master plan for Colombo which foresaw many new roads across the estate. The earlier sub divisions were however made by the De Soysa family itself, which constructed several stately mansions within the property.

The ornate Lakshmigiri which was built in 1910 by A.J.R. de Soysa, the second son of C.H. de Soysa, is a classic example of extravagant building design of the time. This house with its extensive gardens and massive cast iron gates is at the southern end of Thurstan Road bordering Queens Road. It bears assessment No.102 Thurstan Road and is much the same 70 years ago, as it was when constructed almost half a century earlier. Ten years after it was built, the house was mortgaged, and later foreclosed. It was then bought by the Adamjee Lukmanjee family and has remained in their ownership to date under the name Saifee Villa.

Seventy years ago there were no buildings between Saifee Villa and Queen’s Road. Adjoining Queen’s Road is the house originally named Regina Walauwwa by its owner T. H.A. de Soysa, the fourth son of C.H. de Soysa. It was named after his late wife Regina, who died at the age of 29-years. The house was built in 1912. An imposing building with multiple roofs, turrets, and towers it was a palatial residence facing Thurstan Road. The owner was a keen turfite owning many horses, and with a penchant for heavy wagers. The story goes that whenever he won over Rs. 100, 000 at the races, he would hoist the family flag on the large flagstaff in front of the house to indicate to all and sundry that he had made a killing at the races. This ritual was locally referred to as “Lakseta kodiya” meaning “win a lakh of rupees and the flag goes up”. Fortunes do however fluctuate, and by 1920 he was in financial difficulties and the house sold to the newly emerging University College. It was then renamed College House. The flagstaff or ‘kodigaha’ remains on the property to this day.

Any discussion on Alfred House in its heyday, cannot be complete without reference to the magnificent dinner hosted by Charles Henry de Soya at Alfred House in honour of the visiting Prince of Wales, the Duke of Edinburgh. The story is best related by John Capper who published the book “The Duke of Edinburgh in Ceylon” published by Provost and Co, London, and dedicated to His Royal Highness Prince Alfred Ernest Albert, the Duke of Edinburgh, in October 1870. Two chromolithographs from the book are reproduced on the back cover of this journal.

“The tables at the reception were arranged in the form of a cross, the building being brilliantly lighted and decorated; and as the numerous company stood round the well filled boards, the Prince and his party at one end of the cross, the scene was striking in the extreme. The plates, goblets, and knife and fork provided for his Royal Highness were of massive gold, set with rubies, emeralds, and pearls. The usual loyal toasts were given, the Prince bowing his acknowledgments for that of his own health.”The Prince and his entourage remained till 2 o’clock in the morning.

A few days laster, The Prince H.R.H. the Duke of Edinburgh hosted a reception to the De Soysas at Queen’s House and conferred the title of Gate Mudaliyar (Wasala) on Susew de Soysa and Justice of the Peace for the Island on Charles Henry de Soysa (the latter had declined the title of Mudaliyar). Alfred House was demolished in the 1930s to make way for road expansion to serve the civic needs of a burgeoning Colombo population thereby erasing a historical landmark which should have been preserved.

Many of the De Soysa family built stately home on part of the De Soysa estate during the early years. They include the ornate previously discussed Lakshmigiri built in 1912 by second son AJR de Soysa, and Regina Walauwwa or College House as it is presently known, built by THA de Soysa. In addition there were Rheinland built by ELF de Soysa, Villa Venezia on Queens Road by son in law Sir Marcus Fernando.

The grounds of Alfred House ended in the South near today’s Station Road Bambalapitiya, adjoining which was Brodie House, and where Unity Plaza stands today” Nellidith” the home of Dr WH de Silva, Opthalmalogist, and son in law of CH de Soysa. The property was sold to the Gulamhussein family where Onally built his well known “El Patio Yveony” in the 1950s on its grounds. At the Bambalapitiya Junction was “Glen Aber” by the sea, also on the original Alfred House estate. It belonged to JWC de Soysa the eldest son of CH de Soysa. The house is no more, but is commemorated by the road that led to it “Glen Aber Place”.

Son in law of CH de Soysa, Dr Solomon Fernando, built his home also within the Alfred House Estate and the house was named “Sigiriya” remembered today by the road Sigiriya Gardens off Bagatelle Road. Another stately home is the residence of the Indian High Commissioner formerly known as Karlowie on grounds purchased from the Afred House Estate by the State Bank of India in the 1920s. It faces Thurstan Road and stands next door to College House.

Twenty nine years after the death of Sir Charles Henry de Soysa (knighted posthumously) a grateful public contributed to the construction of a memorial to him, unveiled over 100 years ago, in 1919.. He is still remembered for his magnanimity having donated the cost of several public institutions like the De Soysa Lying in Home, Victoria Memorial Eye Hospital, many churches, temples, schools like Prince and Princess of Wales Colleges, and many more.

Alfred House is no more and its grounds now form the heart of Colombo’s residential and mercantile sector. Many roads exist to this day to remind us of the history of a great house and the family associated with it. Bagatelle Road, Bagatelle, Gardens, Afred House Gardens,Alfred Place, Charles Circus etc are still there some replaced by names that do not endure as much as the original. Very few (or none) of the descendants of CH De Soysa live in the original homes built on the Estate.

Like in most families, fluctuating fortunes combined with extravagant living had seen an end to much of what Charles Henry de Soysa left to his heirs. A large family such as his, has spread widely and the number of direct descendants may now number well over 300. The Ceylon Society of Australia had in its membership roll, some of the de Soysa descendants such as Srini Peiris wife of our former President the late Tony Peries and granddaughter of Sir Marcus Fernando who was married to a daughter of CH de Soysa.. Chandra Senaratne our Social Convenor since the inception of CSA, himself a great grandson of CH de Soysa and also his late wife Marlene whose paternal grandfather was AJ R de Soysa of Lakshmigiri.

Chandra has in his possession a set of the monogrammed sterling silver cutlery from Alfred House with which I have dined at Chandra’s residence on many occasions. We also had as a CSA member the late Lalith de Soysa (son of Sir Wilfred de Soysa) who until his death in Melbourne a few years ago was the only surviving grandson of Charles Henry de Soysa. (There may be other descendants of CH de Soysa in the CSA membership of over 350, of whom I am not aware as a student of Sri Lankan genealogy. My apologies in advance for any inadvertent omissions.)

Apart from the dissolution and distribution of the largest ownership of real estate the country ever knew, the material goods such as the gold plates served at the Royal dinner, and those items of furniture which reflected a life of luxury, have all but disappeared. It is a pity that our Museum could not retain any of them to remember the remarkable indigenous entrepreneurship and extraordinary acumen of the pioneer De Soysas, of an order which no doubt befitted its times, but also served as a beacon for others to follow. The grandeur, and opulence of the pioneering De Soysas is part of the history of Ceylon, now Sri Lanka.



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Features

‘Lord Edgware Dies’

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It has been some time since I read an Agatha Christie, the plot of which I cannot remember. So, I was delighted to find on the shelves of a friend Lord Edgware Dies, which I had a vague memory of, but no certainty about who had done it.

When I read it, I found that my memory of who was probably the killer was correct, but I could not be certain and the red herrings Christie threw in were so diverting that until almost the very end I wondered if I had been wrong.

The plot is very simple. Jane Wilkinson, who is married to Lord Edgware, tells him that she is desperate for a divorce since she is in love with a very proper Anglo-Catholic peer, Lord Melton, but Edgware refuses to divorce her. She asks Poirot to talk to him, which he does, and is surprised to find that Edgware has told Jane he is prepared to give her a divorce. This was, after he had categorically refused, through a letter, which Jane said she had not received.

That night Edgware is murdered, after Jane had been to see him, or so the butler said, and also Edgware’s secretary. But Jane had been that evening at a grand dinner many miles away, where a dozen fellow guests could swear to her presence.

There was a solution however to the mystery of two Jane Wilkinsons, namely a skilful impersonator called Carlotta Adams who, in the opening chapter had impersonated Jane Wilkinson, who had also been at the performance. But when Poirot goes to see her, he finds that she had been found dead on the morning after Edgware had been killed, of an overdose. And in her bag was a gold case, with a strange inscription, that contained the drug, along with a pair of pince-nez.

Her maid said she had written a letter to her sister in America and posted it the previous night. Poirot asks Inspector Japp to get the letter, and a transcript is received from America, and in it the name of Edgware’s nephew Ronald Marsh is mentioned; he had taken Carlotta to dinner after her performance, with which the book opens, and had then set her a challenge. Japp arrests Marsh, but Poirot is not happy and asks for the original of the letter, which the sister sends him. That shows that a page is missing, and the tear is obvious, though that raises the question as to why it had not simply been cut.

Matters are further complicated by the fact that Marsh had gone in a taxi to the Edgware house, along with Edgware’s daughter Geraldine, in the interval of an opera which had previously seemed to provide them with cast iron alibis. Geraldine had gone in to fetch her pearls so that Marsh could raise money he needed, and thus had an opportunity to kill Edgware, as did Marsh, for the driver said he had got out of the taxi while waiting and gone into the house.

Agatha Christie

Marsh explained why he had gone to the house on the night of the murder as having followed Bryan Martin, an American actor, who had been in love with Jane, whom he saw go into the house with a key. But there was no one visible when he entered, and Geraldine almost immediately came down and they left together. And Martin too has become an object of suspicion to Poirot, for he had been to see him before the murders were discovered with a story of being followed by a man with a gold tooth – a story Poirot immediately realized was false when he was asked how old the man was, and was told he was young, for young people did not have gold teeth.

A heap of French money Edgware had got for a trip to Paris was missing, but since Marsh had no need for it after his cousin’s offer of help, Poirot deduces that it must have been taken by the butler, who has disappeared. Christie has stressed that he is astonishingly handsome, unusual in a butler, and Poirot notes a resemblance to Martin, so he thinks the mysterious man going into the house must have been him.

Incidentally, later Poirot assumes that Edgware’s change of mind was because he was involved in some scandal, and I believe Christie intends us to see the cause of this in his handsome butler, though this is not specified.

Meanwhile, Poirot has asked Japp to find out the provenance of the case found in Carlotta’s handbag, and it turns out to have been made in Paris, specially commissioned, and collected by a woman with pince-nez.

But then another murder occurs—that of another guest at the grand dinner, which provided Jane with her alibi. The victim is an actor who had been bemused when Jane, at a lunch, thought the Judgment of Paris referred to the city. He told Hastings he wanted to see Poirot, but was killed before he could get to the appointment. Poirot had rushed there when told about his request, but it was too late.

Meanwhile, Poirot has tried out the pince-nez on Edgware’s secretary, but she could not see through these. It was only a chance remark heard outside the theatre that led him to try them out on Wilkinson’s maid Ellis, a spare pair that had been appropriated for the night of the murders.

Poirot then lays things out, having summoned Martin and told him that he probably suppressed Edgware’s letter, as he had been dropped by then and he did not want Jane to marry another. But after teasing Martin, Poirot says that Jane was in fact the murderer, and she got Carlotta to impersonate her at the dinner while she went to the house and killed her husband. After meeting Carlotta later and checking with her through a call that she had not been rumbled, Jane had gone ahead with the murder – she put veronal into her drink and the case with veronal into the handbag. She forgot to take out the pince-nez she had used earlier to imitate an American. Carlotta had registered as the American in a hotel and Jane had gone to see her, and there they exchanged identities. After seen the letter, she made use of it by tearing off the page that referred to her, and the S of She, so that the person who had challenged Carlotta to impersonate her seemed to be a man.

There is a coda in which Jane, condemned to death, writes to Hastings, still full of pride at her ingenuity hoping she will be remembered.

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Desilt reservoirs, learn from our ancient irrigation systems

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Polgolla

by Prof. O. A. Ileperuma

Silting of reservoirs is a major problem today affecting our hydropower production and irrigation systems. The main Mahaweli reservoirs are silted to a considerable extent reducing the water holding capacity of them. Due to poor soil management practices, floodwaters deposit large amounts of silt in these reservoirs. When the Polgolla reservoir was fully drained about two years back, one could see mountains of silt in the lower reaches of the reservoir. A rough estimate is that 50% of the total capacity of these reservoirs has been lost to siltation. This is a serious issue which affects not only power and agriculture but also flood control.

Our ancient irrigation systems ensured that desilting of reservoirs took place under royal decree where all users of the reservoirs were ordered to carry out desilting of reservoirs during the dry season. The clay thus collected was used in making bricks for the construction of great stupas which dot the landscape of our ancient kingdoms. This ensured that the reservoirs had their full capacity filled with water for the next cultivating season. Our ancient kings were clever enough not to construct reservoirs by blocking main rivers such as the Mahaweli. A classic example is the Minipe left canal where they tapped only the surface water of Mahaweli. Even the bigger tanks such as Nuwara Wewa and Parakrama Samudraya were fed with minor rivulets. There were also other ingenious features in the cascade irrigation systems built by the ancient kings, such as mud sluice canals and forest reservations between the reservoirs in the cascade system. These reservations helped trap silt and remove excess nutrients, which could otherwise contribute to increasing salinity as water flowed from one reservoir to another.

Victoria

Moragahakanda

A classic engineering marvel is the former Yoda Ela, which carries water from Kalawewa to Nuwara Wewa and Tissa Wewa. It is 87 km long although the straight distance between these points is only about 40 km. The gradient of this canal is about 10 cm per km or 6 inches per mile. Yodha Ela functions as a moving reservoir and feeds about 4,600 hectares of paddy lands. It is a winding canal with about 120 smaller reservoirs on its way. It was constructed during the reign of King Dhatusena around 459 AD and later expanded by King Parakramabahu by connecting more reservoirs to the network. Unfortunately, during the Mahaweli project our modern-day engineers constructed a concrete canal replacing the winding path of this Yoda Ela also called Jaya Ganga. This effectively removed the ability of the old Yoda Ela to remove silt and nutrients. The bank of this Ela has wet zone trees such as jak and areca nut growing well. They take up the nutrients from the flowing stream making the water suitable for irrigation later.

Ancient Mesopotamian civilisations depended on dams constructed along the two main rivers, Euphrates and Tigris. After continuous irrigation of their fields over several thousand years, salinity of the irrigated lands increased making them unsuitable for agriculture. People died due to famine and this clearly illustrates the danger of blocking main rivers for agriculture. There is scientific evidence that the salinity of paddy soils in the Mahaweli C area is increasing.

We saw the devastation caused by Cyclone Ditwah. The sluice gates of the Kotmale Reservoir were opened, and Kandy and Peradeniya were flooded. If the reservoir had had greater storage capacity, couldn’t the opening of the gates have been delayed? This may not be an argument that modern-day engineers would readily accept, and I am not an irrigation expert. These ideas may well be naïve. But most of us tend to think of reservoirs mainly in terms of hydropower generation and irrigation, while their role in flood control receives much less attention. The question therefore deserves serious consideration. Could restoring lost reservoir capacity through desilting help improve our ability to manage extreme rainfall and reduce flood risks?

Desilting our reservoirs should be considered a national priority.

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Losing out to Ethiopia

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From Trailblazer to Tailender

Export diversification – Missing the wood for the trees – Part III

by Gomi Senadhira

In Sri Lanka, the word “Ethiopia” is often used as disparaging slang to describe individuals or areas experiencing extreme poverty, starvation, or severe economic hardship. This linguistic habit originated in the 1980s with the Western media coverage of the devastating Ethiopian famine of 1983-85. That media coverage shocked the world but also left an outdated and offensive global stereotype that the country is permanently starving. Much has changed since then. By now, with an annual growth rate of around 9%, it is the fastest-growing economy in sub-Saharan Africa. Ethiopia has also emerged as a highly competitive exporter and is challenging not only its competitors in the region but also countries like Sri Lanka. This article is on how Sri Lanka has lost ground to Ethiopia (and a few other countries) in the GCC markets for agricultural and floricultural products.

Sri Lanka – A Pioneer in the Agriculture and Floricultural Market in the GCC

As discussed in Part II of this article, by the mid-1980s Sri Lanka had established a strong foothold in the GCC’s fruit, vegetable, and floricultural market. Geographical proximity and well-established shipping and air links gave Sri Lanka a strong comparative advantage over Southeast Asian and African nations. Thailand, Vietnam, and Kenya were not even in the market. At that time, Ethiopia was experiencing (as BBC news reports described) “a biblical famine”.

The market was not very large, but it was lucrative and growing. Trade Minister Lalith Athulathmudali as well as the Chairman of the Export Development Board, Victor Santiapillai, who visited Kuwait (and the GCC countries), recognised the market potential for these products and encouraged us to continue with our work. The minister was particularly keen to further develop links between the market for these products, exporters, and his Export Production Villages (EPVs). So, it was becoming a successful case not only for export diversification but also for transferring gains from exports directly to rural households.

From Trailblazer to Tailender

As a result, even by the beginning of this century Sri Lanka had a larger market share than most of its competitors from Asia or Africa. But since then, our competitiveness has weakened significantly. The tables below provide a comparative snapshot of Sri Lanka’s performance vis-à-vis Thailand, Vietnam, Kenya and Ethiopia in the GCC market for vegetables, fruits and floricultural products. As illustrated therein, in 2001 Sri Lanka was ahead of Thailand, Kenya and Ethiopia in this small but rapidly growing market. Since then, we have fallen behind Thailand, Kenya and many other countries in that lucrative market. If this trend continues, Sri Lanka will fall behind Ethiopia within the next few years. (See Table 1)

In the GCC market for vegetables (covered in HS chapter 07), Sri Lanka was ahead of most other competitors in 2001. As illustrated in Table 1 , Sri Lanka had failed to develop this market, while Thailand, Kenya, and even Ethiopia had very efficiently increased their market shares. The GCC is a market to which Sri Lanka can supply some vegetables, like cabbages, by sea. It appears Sri Lanka had also failed to exploit this mode of supply.

We can see a similar trend in the market for fruits. Vietnam, Kenya, and Thailand have emerged as major players, while exports from Sri Lanka have staggered on slowly. In this segment, Vietnam has emerged as a leading player during the last twenty years and the GCC imports from Viet Nam have shot up from US$44 thousand in 2001 to US$346 million by 2024. In part one of these articles, I discussed the remarkable increase of jackfruit exports from Vietnam “…just $3 million in 2015 to an impressive $236.8 million in 2023” while most of our jackfruit production rots under the trees. This explains how countries develop their markets, geographically and product-wise. (See Table 2)

Sri Lanka’s performance has been weakest in the market for floricultural products (HS Chapter 06), which groups live trees, cut flowers, and ornamental foliage. When we first entered the market in the 1980s, the market was dominated by the Netherlands, and Kenya and Ethiopia were not even in the market. At that time, we identified the Gulf states as a market where Sri Lanka could have a dominant presence due to geographical proximity. Even in 2001, Sri Lanka was ahead of Kenya, Ethiopia, and Thailand. But by now, Kenya has emerged as the dominant supplier. Ethiopia is also expanding its market share and is the third-largest exporter. (See Table 3)

Missing the Wood for the Trees

In the mid-1980s, Sri Lanka first established its foothold in the GCC market. Since then, Thailand, Vietnam, Kenya, and even Ethiopia have moved well ahead of us and have become leading players. Why did we lag behind in our export diversification efforts in general and, more particularly, in the GCC market?

The reasons are very clear. After the initial attempts in the 1980s and early 1990s, Sri Lanka has not been proactively involved in identifying, developing, and promoting new products and markets, or protecting and further developing new markets already established. The focus has simply been on traditional exports: tea, coconut, cinnamon, and garments, while other products were almost ignored. In essence, we have been and continue to focus intensely on a narrow group of products and markets, and we have lost sight of the bigger picture.

(The writer can be reached at senadhiragomi@gmail.com)

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