Features
Myanmar…..unlike any land you know about
by ACB Pethiyagoda
A desire to visit Burma (Myanmar since 1989) having seen the film ‘The Story of Dr. Wossell’ as a school boy was fulfilled recently. The film was about a dedicated British Army Medical Officer who during World War II fell in love with the country and more deeply with a lithesome and compassionate Buddhist Burmese lady and chose to remain with her in her country after demobilization.
Several books, fiction and non-fiction of the country read over the years made the desire greater. However, Burma’s isolation from the rest of the world since 1962 when the military junta known as the State Law and Order Restoration Council (SLORC) seized power, rumours of political unrest, and later the house arrest of the Nobel Peace Prize winner and leader of the National League for Democracy, Aung San Sun Kyi made one think twice about making the journey. However, recently people spoke of trickles of tourists flowing into the country and we, a party of five, including my sister followed suit.
Yangon the capital city known as Rangoon up to 1989 is also the international airport. On arrival Customs and Immigration formalities were gone through without the feared hassle. Every foreign visitor however is required to purchase Foreign Exchange Certificates (FECS) for at least US$ 200. The dollar is presently valued at 350 Kyats (pronounced chat) and is presently the official rate of exchange but encashable up to 400 Kyats or more when payments for purchases are made in US dollars or FECs.
There are about 150 licensed hotels in Yangong which are authorized to receive foreign guests in addition to locals. On the top of the range is The Strand (in existence from British times) at around US$ 400 a night with dinner or lunch at US$ 25 and high tea at US$ 10 per person! In the Traders Hotel and Hotel Equatorial, rooms are about half that price. In the budget range there are very many hotels and guesthouses at about US$ 30 double and US$ 20 single with AC, attached bathroom, hot and cold water, mini fridge, good linen and comfortable beds which are more than adequate for the normal tourist. In addition a breakfast of juice, eggs, toast, tea or coffee is included. Payments by foreigners for hotel accommodation are strictly in US dollars or FECs.
Clean and tasty meals of rice or noodles with vegetables, chicken or fish at a little less than US$2 are available in this type of hotel. Hundreds of middle range restaurants which serve Western, Indian, Chinese and Burmese food are found all over Yangon.
Yangon has a population of around four million out of 89 million in the country. It is clean and roads, some with six lanes for traffic, are lined with ornamental trees and flowering shrubs at the center and beyond the wide pavements on both sides. Residential areas of the wealthy where some of the foreign embassies are located are more like the best areas of Singapore, Bangkok, Jakarta etc. No doubt there are the seamy sides of the city but prudent tourists avoid those here or in any country unless they are seeking unnecessary trouble!
A very notable feature is that these roads are well maintained, even those outside the capital, and are completely devoid of refuse not even scraps of paper or other litter. That goes for the bazaars as well (Scott market being the most popular) and the other commercial areas. Pavements of many of these areas, particularly in the evenings, are converted into open air eating houses with low plastic stools for patrons who are served with a variety of food from rice, noodles, soups, barbecued meats of various kinds, to beer, tea and other beverages.
In these bazaars the normal tourist looking for gifts or souvenirs would be attracted by exquisitely carved wooden ornaments, jade jewellery, gem stones (rubies and sapphires), cotton and silk longyi (lungi) – all truly Burmese. As in any other country if one wants to be doubly sure of quality, tourists’ shops located in the better residential areas and the upper class shopping malls would be the choice.
Practically, everyone in the country, rich or poor, in whatever occupation from shop assistants to Government employees, and professionals, other than those in their regulation uniforms, wear the longyi – the Burmese unisex sarong. Men normally wear small checked cotton sarongs well above the ankle with a rather prominent knot in front and with their wallets tucked at the back; perhaps a bit risky in crowded areas.
Women wear very colourful longyis with one end tucked into the side. Men wear western style shirts or less often tunic style collarless shirts above the sarong while the upper garments worn by women are loose blouses in varying styles and colours to match the longyi. This dress is so very sensible, particularly for men in a hot tropical climate and is also very elegant while class distinctions created by different types and styles of western clothing do not arise.
More men in Sri Lanka should adopt this form of dress particularly during non-working hours as casual wear in the evenings – the writer has done that for the last 40 years. Men in two piece suits are a definite rarity and they also do not normally wear the headgear which used to be seen in photographs of leading Burmese men in earlier years. Both men and women wear slippers or sandals and hardly anyone is seen in socks and shoes or barefoot.
With King Anawarahta’s ascendance to the throne in 1044 Burma’s history began to be written and from 1057 it became a Buddhist state. In 1472 King Dhamma Zedi caused a revival of Buddhist culture and during his reign contact with European countries, mainly British, Dutch and French commenced. After several other Burmese Kings, the British took over Mandalay (700 km. North of Yangon) and the surrounding areas after the most ruthless crushing of any opposition to their onward march and consolidation of its power over the whole of Burma which became a part of British India.
In 1942 the Japanese having driven the British out declared Burma an independent country. However, due to their harsh rule a strong anti-Japanese feeling arose and towards the end of World War II the British took control of the country again. On January 27, 1947, 37-year old General Aung San and Prime Minister Clement Atlee signed an agreement for the formation of a Constituent Assembly after a general election.
Aung San’s party won by a majority of 53 seats but in July 1947 he and six of his assistants were assassinated. On January 4, 1948 Independence was granted to Burma with General Aung San’s second in command, U Nu as leader of the country. Since then the country has had continuous political problems with one rebel group or another until the SLORC imposed martial law and took control of the country.
In May 1990 the National League for Democracy led by Aung San Sun Kyi (daughter of the late General Aung San) won a general election with a majority of 93 seats but the ruling military junta continues in power to date having called itself the State Peace and Development Council (SPDC) with 19 Members replacing the former SLORC with 27 members.
Throughout this tumultuous period of Myanmar’s history one aspect of life remained calm, constant and undeterred; veneration of Lord Buddha and adherence to His teachings which were introduced by the Indian Emperor Asoka the Great in the third century BC. This was later followed by frequent visits by Sinhala Buddhist missionaries between the sixth and 10th centuries resulting even now with Sri Lankan visitors often being accepted with a greater degree of cordiality than other foreigners.
Eighty seven percent of the Burmese practice Theravada Buddhism which as is known to us teaches one to work towards ones own salvation through acceptance of the Four Noble Truths and practice of the Eight Precepts. Meditation or correctly called insight awareness based on instructions of the Maha Satipattana is practiced widely by the young and old in temples and their homes as a daily ritual.
Several centres in Yangong teach the discipline to foreigners and locals; and in some simple food and lodging are provided free of charge provided the followers adhere to the rigorous house rules. These are long periods of practice from early dawn to mid morning and in the late evenings, following the Eight Precepts, refraining from solid food after the noon meal and dressing simply and modestly throughout the training period which can be a few weeks or months according to each individuals need.
In all Buddhist temples one cannot fail to notice the deep sense of serenity of the worshipers, groups or individuals in meditation, absolute cleanliness although perhaps thousands pass through each day. Also seen is the absence of tills. Flower offerings and oil lamps with lighting of candles and joss sticks are confined to small and limited areas. Bo trees are seldom seen in temples and the few that are seen have smaller leaves than our Bo trees. Instead of ‘bathing’ these trees, the common practice among the Burmese is to pour water over small statues of the Buddha placed beside small ponds with sprinklings of flowers: one cup of water for each year of life and one extra for future years.
The Shwedagon Paya is the most famous of dagabas or temples in Yangon and Myanmar. It stands on a hillock 190 feet above sea level, 321 feet high from its base, covered in beaten gold, a truly awe inspiring sight particularly early in the morning or late evening. It was built about 2,500 years ago, repaired several times after damage due to earthquakes and enshrines eight strands of the Buddhas hair relics which were brought in to the countryfrom India by two Burmese merchant brothers.
In 1852 British soldiers occupied the premises for 77 years up to 1929, plundered and desecrated the temple and even took away among other treasures a 23-ton bell which accidentally fell into the Yangon River when loading into a ship for transfer to England. Many years later it was retrieved by the Burmese and placed in its original location.
In Prome some 150 miles from Yangon is the hallowed Shwesandaw Paya overlooking the Ayeyarwardy (Irawawaddy) River. Here pilgrims are taken to the base of the dagaba from the bottom of the hill it stands on by a slightly creaky electric lift for which a few Kyats are charged. This edifice is one meter taller than the Shwedagon and is a beautiful sight in the evenings when floodlit. As in the Shwedagon Paya premises hundreds of worshippers pass through daily at all hours in silence and with great piety.
Ten miles south of Prome on the road to Yangong is a temple with a huge statue of the Buddha in the sitting position defiled with a pair of gold rimmed spectacles. To say the least it is bizzare and the serenity of the face is lost.
The story goes that a long time ago a wealthy man of the area was going blind and vowed to gift the existing statue with a pair of spectacles if the treatment he was undergoing answered. He was cured and the vow was fulfilled. Strangely, years later the Christian wife of a British officer in Pyay in colonial times was also said to have been cured of an eye ailment and she too fulfilled a vow by donating a pair of eye glasses to the statue. It is not clear whose gift is seen today. However, one wishes that these two people when cured did not so unfeelingly desecrate a beautiful statue but expressed their gratitude by adding to the sanctity of the temple by other means.
Writing about the practice of religion in Myanmar mention must be made that there are small numbers of Theravada Buddhists, Hindus and Christians, mostly Baptists. Their places of worship are occasionally seen in the city and outside.
Myanmar, specially Yangon is a mixture of a certain degree of modernity and true ‘Burmese-ness;’ values which are a Buddhist way of life, respect for elders in the family or outside, all forms of life, modest simple dress, polite and dignified behaviour. There is evidence of poverty alongside indications of wealth and luxury but true Buddhist culture appears to pervade throughout all sections of society.
Having been cut off from the rest of the world for about 40 years has had its benefits and disadvantages depending on circumstances and situations and what values one looks for.
About 100 years ago Rudyard Kipling’s companion said to him, “This is Burma and it will be quite unlike any land you know about”. How very true even today and may it be that way in the years to come.
(This article by the late author was published in 2001)
Features
Combining local resources,traditional knowledge and science to build a food-secure Sri Lanka
World Food Day 2026: Innovating today for a better food future
by Dr. Kaushalya Wijayasekara
What will be on the Sri Lankan dinner table ten years from now? Will our children be able to get nutritious food at a price their families can afford? Will farmers be able to grow enough despite changing weather and rising costs? And how much of the food we produce will actually reach the consumer, instead of being lost or wasted along the way?
These questions can’t wait. A farmer faces unpredictable weather. A family faces rising food costs. Fruit goes unsold after a good harvest. Some children do not get enough nutrition. The future of food is tied to the future of Sri Lanka itself.
World Food Day 2026 is a chance to look beyond the immediate problems and ask whether we can build a food system that feeds our people well, gives farmers better opportunities, protects the environment and makes better use of what we already have. The answer can be yes, but we will have to think differently.
We are not starting from zero. Sri Lanka has diverse crops, fisheries, traditional food knowledge, indigenous varieties, research institutions, universities and a young generation able to create new solutions. What we need is to bring these together and act. Producing more will not secure our food future on its own. It will depend on how intelligently we produce, process, preserve, distribute and consume food.
Making more of what we already have
Innovation does not always mean inventing something new. Often it means finding better uses for the resources we have.
Sri Lanka grows traditional rice varieties, kurakkan, green gram, cowpea, jackfruit, breadfruit, cassava, sweet potato, coconut and palmyrah. All of them have great potential for modern, nutritious, value-added foods. Jackfruit and breadfruit can be made into flour and other convenient products. Traditional rice varieties can go into new foods that suit changing consumer needs. Palmyrah, with its strong cultural heritage, can create new income through better processing, packaging, quality assurance and market development.
The aim is to connect our traditional food knowledge with modern consumer needs and technology, while keeping our food heritage.
Stop wasting the food we produce
Reducing food loss and waste should be a major priority. Seasonal fruits such as mango, banana, papaya and pineapple can be lost in large quantities when production exceeds demand or when storage, transport and processing facilities are inadequate. With suitable technology, these fruits can become dried products, pulps, powders, beverages and other shelf-stable foods.
Agricultural and fisheries by-products are resources too. They could be turned into food ingredients, animal feed, bio-based products and other useful materials, which would move us toward a more circular food economy.
Technology alone is not enough. We need stronger local processing facilities, cold storage, efficient transport, collection centres and market information systems, especially close to where food is produced. Cutting food loss raises the value of what our farmers and fishers already produce.
Nutrition and food safety come first
Food security means more than having enough food. People also need food that is safe and nutritious.
Sri Lanka can develop affordable, nutritious foods from local pulses, grains, vegetables, fruits and fish. Children and other vulnerable groups should get particular attention. Schoolchildren in particular deserve a focus: safe, nutritious, locally sourced products for school feeding programs would support child nutrition, local farmers and domestic food industries at the same time.
Food safety must stay at the centre of food innovation. Good hygiene, quality control, laboratory testing, traceability and appropriate food safety systems are what make new products safe as well as attractive and nutritious.
A food system that can cope with climate change
Climate change is already affecting agricultural production, water availability, crop yields and food prices. We need food systems that can handle changing conditions. That means climate-resilient crops, efficient water use, soil and water conservation, better storage and resource-efficient food processing.
Traditional knowledge matters here. Generations of Sri Lankan farmers have developed practices suited to local climates and ecosystems. Combining that experience with modern science can give us solutions that fit local conditions and are sustainable. Technology alone will not build the future of food. Science, experience and local knowledge together can.
Give young people a bigger role
Sri Lanka’s universities have an important part to play in shaping our food future. Young people should be encouraged to identify real problems in the food system and work on practical solutions in areas such as food waste, sustainable packaging, nutrition, food safety, modernising traditional foods and digital technologies.
A good research project should not always end as a research paper. Where appropriate, research should be supported to move on to products, technologies, enterprises and community solutions. That needs stronger partnerships between universities and industry, along with mentoring, research funding, business support and market connections. If young researchers and entrepreneurs can turn their ideas into viable food innovations, both consumers and producers will benefit.
A pathway designed for Sri Lanka
We do not need to copy food-system models from other countries. We can build a pathway that suits our own resources, culture and needs. It would bring together local resources, traditional knowledge, scientific research, appropriate technology and entrepreneurship, with farmers, fishers, universities, research institutions, food industries, entrepreneurs and policymakers working side by side.
The goal goes beyond selling raw materials. We need to create more value, reduce waste, improve nutrition, generate jobs and strengthen rural livelihoods. This matters especially for small and medium-scale food enterprises, which can drive local economic development when they get the right technical, financial and market support.
The choices we make today
The food future will not create itself. It will be shaped by what we grow, what we research, what we process, what we consume and what we choose not to waste.
So, the question for World Food Day 2026 is this: what can we do today so that every Sri Lankan has safe, nutritious, affordable and sustainable food tomorrow?
The answers are already around us, in our farms, fisheries, food businesses, universities, laboratories and communities. We have the resources, the traditional knowledge, the scientific expertise and talented young people. What we need now is to connect them and act.
A better food future begins with the choices we make today.
Dr. Kaushalya Wijayasekara
Senior Lecturer, Department of Biosystems Technology, Faculty of Technology, University of Ruhuna
Features
20th Anniversary of Digampathana blast – the day Sri Lanka Navy cried
By Admiral Ravindra C Wijegunaratne
WV, RWP and Bar, RSP, VSV, USP, NI (M) (Pakistan), ndc, psn, Bsc
(Hons) (War Studies) (Karachi) MPhil (Madras)
Former Navy Commander and Former Chief of Defence Staff
Former Chairman, Trincomalee Petroleum Terminals Ltd
Former Managing Director Ceylon Petroleum Corporation
Former High Commissioner to Pakistan
The Digampathana suicide truck attack on 16th October 2006 remains the deadliest single strike in Sri Lanka Navy history, leaving scars that time cannot erase.
It was a seemingly ordinary Monday morning on 16 October 2006, but the calm of that day would soon be shattered in a way none of us could have imagined. As the Commandant of the Naval and Maritime Academy and Flag Officer Commanding Naval Fleet at Trincomalee, I was aware that a number of my cadets were travelling that morning, part of a convoy of fifteen buses carrying naval personnel from Trincomalee, Colombo, and other bases, heading toward Dambulla to rendezvous with another group. The convoy also included trucks and escort vehicles, a routine movement planned and coordinated with the army to ensure the roads were clear. The morning started quietly. Some personnel greeted friends, handed over their weapons, or strolled to a nearby tea shop. It all seemed so ordinary—too ordinary for what would come next.

Sri Lanka Navy sunk LTTE Ships carrying arms, ammunition and warlike materials thousand miles away from Sri Lanka in Indian Ocean in September and October 2007.
By late morning, both convoys had reached the small ground at Digampathana, near the Sigiriya junction, and personnel mingled briefly, unaware that a carefully orchestrated act of terror was waiting. Then, suddenly, an empty half-truck veered directly into the convoy. It exploded with a ferocity I can still recall as if it were yesterday. Nuts, bolts, and high explosives tore through the air. Pandemonium erupted instantly. I later learned that 107 of our naval personnel were killed on the spot and another 153 critically injured. The scene was indescribable—bodies scattered, vehicles mangled, personal effects strewn across the ground. I remember later hearing that the head of the suicide bomber was recovered more than 100 meters away from the blast, a grim testament to the sheer force of the explosion.
I was in my office at the Naval and Maritime Academy when my mobile phone rang. A young midshipman from the 21st intake called, his voice trembling: “Sir, there was a huge explosion at the convoy point! Many are dead … my batch mate Wijesundara is among them.” I immediately jumped into my jeep with my escort Chief Petty Officer and driver and rushed to Digampathana, relying on every ounce of my driving skill to reach the scene. The journey, which usually took little more than an hour, felt endless that day, each passing mile weighed down by dread.
When I arrived, I was confronted with a sight that no training can prepare you for. The injured were being rushed to Dambulla Hospital, where doctors and nurses worked tirelessly, improvising in ways that saved lives despite the overwhelming chaos. I went back to the site after visiting the hospital. The remains of our naval personnel were scattered across the ground, and someone had begun collecting weapons and protective gear. I immediately contacted Surgeon Rear Admiral Nico Jayasekara and received his instructions: collect all body parts in separate bags and transport them to the Trincomalee Naval Hospital mortuary. This gruesome work had to be done with care and dignity, and it filled the icebox in my vehicle. Through DNA testing initiated by Rear Admiral Nico, we were able to identify every naval personnel lost that day, bringing some closure to grieving families.
The Navy Commander at the time, Vice Admiral Wasantha Karannagoda, was devastated. I had worked closely with him and knew how deeply he cared for his men. He ensured that the fallen were honoured with full ceremonial naval funerals at Welisara Naval Base, attended by families and comrades. Sixty-seven funerals were conducted in a single day—a number that still haunts me.
The Digampathana attack remains the largest single loss of naval life in our history. It was a day of sorrow, but also a day that reinforced our resolve. The tragedy galvanized the Navy to target the LTTE Sea Tiger wing with renewed determination and reshaped our maritime operations forever. Every time I think of that day, I remember not just the lives lost, but the courage, professionalism, and dedication of those who survived, those who treated the injured, and those who ensured the fallen were honored properly. May the souls of our naval hero’s rest in peace, their sacrifice guiding us and inspiring generations of naval personnel to come.
Features
‘Murder at Whitby Abbey’
Tales of Mystery and Suspense – 24
I was intrigued by the title of a book I found in a book drop at the condominium of a friend, Murder at Whitby Abbey, and I brought it home with me though I will not be able to return it in the near future. It was described on the cover page as ‘a standout in the crowded medieval mystery field’, though I fear I do not know of other books in this field, apart from the Cadfael series, which I have dealt with earlier.
The book, by Cassandra Clark, is set during the reign of Richard II and has as a backdrop his precarious position, which led to his being replaced, and murdered, by his cousin Henry, who reigned as Henry IV. It is a gloomy book, the action taking place in the twelve days of Christmas leading up to the Epiphany. And the gloom is pervasive, even though this is supposed to be a time of festivity, with mummers performing, and many of those in the guest house where the heroine stays going to town to enjoy themselves, with much drinking and much music, which also fills the guesthouse.
The heroine Hildegarde is a nun, sent to try to acquire a relic being sold by Whitby Abbey, though this was also a penance set by the Abbot of the monastery that governed her abbess because she had had sex with a man. Soon after she and her companions reach the Abbey set high on a cliff, she finds that there are other bidders, and soon suspects that the hierarchy, not perhaps the Abbot who seems a weakling, but his rapacious bursar, is determined to make money, and not above creating false relics to sell to several aspirants.
After Hildegarde and her Cistercian companions – Whitby is a Benedictine Foundation – two monks, Gregory and Egbert, and a young priest Mark, reach the abbey, they find that Aelwyn, a monk they had met on their way to the guesthouse had died. This was in the apple store, and they realize, when they find the surplices of novices stuffed into the air vents, that he had been left to suffocate in the overwhelming scent of apples.
The Cistercians are asked to look into the death, perhaps because they are likely to get no cooperation from the Abbey folk, but perhaps because those in charge are keen to know what happened. And the infirmarer, an old monk, suggests Hildegarde talk to a man called Edred who worked for the bursar, and had been a friend of Aelwyn’s. But Edred too is killed, before he can keep an appointment he had made with Hildegarde, drowned in a pool near the farmhouse of the Abbey.
Meanwhile tensions arise between the fisherfolk and the abbey for the bursar wants to charge them for using the beach that technically belongs to the abbey to dry their fish and their nets. This leads to physical battles, when the guards used by the abbey, under the command it seems of the bursar whose determination to make money is not resisted by the abbot and the prior, try to storm the area where the fishermen live.
Hildegard finds out more about what had happened through two youngsters, one of whom Torold is the son of Aelwyn by a woman who worked as a prostitute for a cartel, and with whom Mark fell in love. The other works on the farm and had seen Edred meet someone near the pool, after which that someone left the place by himself. And the boy had also found in the pool a sort of dagger with the seal of the abbey.
He and his dog, and Torold who follows her, rescue Hildegarde from a man at arms who has waylaid her and tries to rape her earlier. Escaping into the abbey she was nearly been raped then by the bursar, but she managed to escape, in the process setting fire to him and the muniments room, which led, when he was rescued, to the discovery of a box with the money he said had been stolen, blame being cast on both Aelwyn and Edred.
Matters come to a head when the fisherfolk try to storm the abbey, being resisted by the men at arms stationed on the towers. But then Hildegarde realizes that behind the murders was the bursar’s clerk, whom she pursued to the cathedral. There is great drama then as she escapes from him when he tries to kill her, and then from the man at arms who had tried to both rape and kill her, but they both fall from the scaffolding she had climbed, the latter coming from a tower where he had been stationed.
Both of them think they run the rapacity of the abbey, the latter claiming to work for the nobles opposed to Richard, who is presented throughout the book as devoted to his subjects, not to power or money. But though the villains die, the bursar continues, having got over the hysteria the fire had caused and his acknowledgment then of guilt – and though the abbot and the prior seem less vicious, whether they will be able to assert themselves is questionable.
Before the climax, when the others in the guesthouse were leaving, Hildegarde found that two of them were in possession of the relic, for which they seem to have paid well. Hildegarde herself had made a derisory offer, but before she leaves the abbot gives her the relic, perhaps in gratitude for what she and her fellow Cistercians had discovered, the abbey having made as much money as it needed and more from the gullible other buyers.
Mark’s inamorata is saved from the stews because she moves in with Edred’s widow whom the bursar had thrown out of the rooms he occupied when her husband was found dead. Hildegarde had paid for lodgings, in a house run by the man who ran the brothels, but he had a kindly side and was going to finance them to make nets for the fishermen.
So, the Cistercians set off for their home as swiftly as they can to get there on the day of the Epiphany, having stopped en route to pray for King Richard whose birthday it was.
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