Features
My travel buddies and a fairytale 70th birthday
“I started with noithing and how far I’ve come”
by Sumi Moonesinghe as narrated to Savithri Rodrigo
Having always been fascinated with history, I wanted to constantly walk through historic routes and relive historic tales. One of these was Route Napoleon, which was voted the best road in France and one of the most scenic routes to the south of France. Although I had decided to take the train, that plan went under as a bridge had collapsed. A tour company arranged a driver and car for about EUR 1,000.
The driver was a 32-year-old French ex-marine who turned up at six in the morning and was the perfect tour guide because every time I said something was beautiful, he would immediately stop so I could take in the view and a photograph and maybe even have a cup of coffee. We reached Geneva at 1700 in the evening, in time for my flight to Heathrow, where I connected for my return flight to Colombo.
I had also amassed a coterie of girlfriends who loved to travel. Dawn Austin, Rohini Nanayakkara, Thanchi Coomaraswamy and I booked ourselves on the Grand Mediterranean Cruise in 2007. I was already in London visiting Aushi and joined them in Rome. We were booked into adjoining rooms with balcony cabins. I remember walking into my luxury cabin and sitting on the bed and thinking about how I had started with nothing and how far I had come. Was it karma, hard work or destiny?
It was truly a super-luxurious cruise; we were pampered with anything and everything. From Rome, we sailed to Florence, then on to the Isle of Capri and the Greek Islands. We were four completely different personalities but got on absolutely well together. There was Rohini who wanted to see everything and Dawn who would feel sorry to see her go alone and therefore, accompany her. Thanchi and I didn’t care either way.
When we visited the Parthenon for example, we decided to have a cup of coffee before walking about. But Rohini was antsy, constantly asking if we can move on. At one point, Dawn said, “Rohini, this has been there for a thousand years and it will be there for another thousand years. So there is no need to rush. Let’s sit down, have a croissant and a coffee first.” Rohini finally sat down for a leisurely morning but not before some convincing and an assurance that she could walk about the Parthenon as much as she wanted and we wouldn’t rush her.
The guides were expensive, charging about EUR 80 per tour. I refused to pay such exorbitant amounts.. The three ladies looked at me, laughed and said, “Sumi, you spent so much on this absolutely luxurious cruise and now you don’t want to spend EUR 80 on the guide?” I know it sounds a little foolish but I couldn’t get that thrifty habit out of my system. We would shop a little en route, buying whatever took our fancy.
We also took a cruise to St. Petersburg in August 2009 anal enjoyed it thoroughly. Russia truly is a land of wonder and St. Petersburg, founded by Russian Tsar Peter the Great and named after the apostle Saint Peter, is absolutely beautiful. It is the cultural capital of Russia and judging by the limited sites we were able to visit due to lack of time, it’s a title well bestowed.
I simply adored the Hermitage Museum, which is the largest art museum in the world. Each wall showcasing the masterworks by great artists and the impressive collection that Catherine the Great had acquired from Berlin merchant Johann Ernst Gotzkowsky. From there we took a short walk to the Winter Palace, the iconic symbol of the Russian revolution but prior to that, was the official residence of the Russian emperors for nearly two centuries. The green and white palace has an imposing facade and we were told it probably has the most number of doors, windows, rooms and staircases in any single building constructed at the time – 1,886 doors, 1,945 windows, 1,500 rooms and 117 staircases.
There was so much to explore in St. Petersburg and I just wish we had more time. Sadly, we wasted one evening going to the ballet, which technically we could have seen anywhere else in the world and missed out on seeing Catherine’s Palace, the summer residence of the tsars. I could only imagine the striking architecture, being awed in the Hall of Lights which is the one thousand square metre ornate grand ballroom and walking in those acres of landscaped gardens admiring the gorgeous sculptures.
Rohini joined me to go to Egypt and on the trip to Israel, I traveled with Rohini and Rohini – my sister. We first flew to Jordan and had the most amazing pica bread in Petra. Then we hired a car and driver for our Israeli tour. Our driver was Israeli so he couldn’t take us into Palestine. At the border, a Palestinian driver would pick us up. I remember him saying, “Don’t believe anything I say. Just talk to the people you meet, listen carefully and make up your own mind.”
In just one month after we returned, conflict broke out in that region. In 2001, Thanchi, Romi and I decided to go to China, adding to our itinerary that we also wanted to experience the ‘real China’. We excitedly picked where we wanted to go – Beijing, Xian, Guilin and Shanghai. I contacted Robert Kuok’s office which as efficiently as always, organised the entire trip for us.
In every city we visited, we stayed at the Shangri-La. Now this isn’t quite the real China in the actual sense of the word, but We consoled ourselves that while we spent the day in the ‘real China,’ having a bit of luxury when we got back was worth it. We visited markets, looking for bargains with Thanchi being best at bargaining.
Thanchi spied a Chinese silk cheongsam and asked the vendor for the price. Knowing we were tourists, she promptly tapped out 250 Yuan on her calculator, which was how we communicated as we didn’t know Mandarin. Thanchi turned on her heel and walked off saying, “Expensive, too expensive!” When the woman said, “How much you pay?” Thanchi promptly replied, “I pay 40 Yuan.” I was flabbergasted and thought we would get assaulted or at the very least verbally abused by the vendor. Incredibly, Thanchi got her cheongsam for 40 Yuan.
Not too long ago, I asked Aushi if we could go to Morocco because I have always been fascinated with Humphrey Bogart and the movie ‘Casablanca’. From the moment we landed in Morocco, I was raring to revisit Humphrey Bogart’s story. Aushi, Eroshan and even our driver dissuaded me saying there was nothing to see. But of course, I was not to be put off.
I got into the car and asked the driver to take me to the places that Casablanca had been filmed and Humphrey Bogart had been. The man turned around and looked at me as if I was crazy, but drove me around anyway. There was nothing to see, but what I did notice was that the city was very clean, with not a speck of garbage anywhere.
In the midst of walking those amazing shopping streets in Marrakesh, I fell in love with a beautiful Moroccan door. The massive door, embellished with intricately carved silver metal sheets and inlaid with gold and ebony had me mesmerized. It took just a few minutes for me to purchase it, have it wrapped up and delivered to the Four Seasons, where we were staying. The door was part of my luggage on my return flight to Colombo and now stands in pride of place at the end of my veranda, seen by everyone who walks into my house.
In 2015 I turned 70. The girls were keen on giving me a special day and asked me what I would like to do. “I will have some friends over and we can have Mrs. Dao cook at home.” Mrs Dao was a Thai lady whose Thai food was absolutely delicious. She was a firm favourite of mine when it came to Thai cuisine. She would come home and cook in my kitchen, which was yet another reason to like her cooking. My girls asked me to list out the friends I would like to invite and also the menu I want Mrs. Dao to prepare. Both Aushi and Anarkali were having these conversations with me while they were in London.
Three days before my birthday, I had my first surprise. Aushi landed at home. It was lovely to have her and I thought this was an early birthday gift, which in a way it was. On May 5 and my birthday dawned, I was told by Aushi to take her children Tahlia and Sidhara on a tour of Colombo because they had never quite seen Colombo properly whenever they visited. She gave me a list of places to visit and looking at that, I realized I would be out the whole day.
I fretted a little and asked her whether she had contacted my friends with the invitation for this evening. She assured me that everything was under control. I got in the car for the tour of the city of Colombo with my grandchildren and returned about four in the evening. My house and garden were unrecognizable.
Aushi’s creativity had excelled. The place was magical and looked very festive. I walked into the kitchen, expecting to see Mrs. Dao but what greeted me was a battalion of chefs. Unknown to me, Robert Kuok had sent the chefs from the Shangri-La to prepare a feast for my birthday. Robert had organized the entire meal with Aushi and Anarkali – and Kumar’s help of course.
The chefs were supposed to cook at a cafe and send the dishes over, but when they saw my kitchen, they opted to cook at home. Kumar had been dispatched that morning to the Kollupitiya market, accompanied by one of the chefs to pick and choose whatever they wanted. Robert and his wife Poh-lin sent me two beautiful pots of orchids as an additional gift – the meal itself was their gift to me.
What a fantastic birthday I had. Surprise after surprise – with even my friend Duke and his wife Cathy flying in from the UK – I couldn’t have been blessed more.
Features
Disaster-proofing paradise: Sri Lanka’s new path to global resilience
iyadasa Advisor to the Ministry of Science & Technology and a Board of Directors of Sri Lanka Atomic Energy Regulatory Council A value chain management consultant to www.vivonta.lk
As climate shocks multiply worldwide from unseasonal droughts and flash floods to cyclones that now carry unpredictable fury Sri Lanka, long known for its lush biodiversity and heritage, stands at a crossroads. We can either remain locked in a reactive cycle of warnings and recovery, or boldly transform into the world’s first disaster-proof tropical nation — a secure haven for citizens and a trusted destination for global travelers.
The Presidential declaration to transition within one year from a limited, rainfall-and-cyclone-dependent warning system to a full-spectrum, science-enabled resilience model is not only historic — it’s urgent. This policy shift marks the beginning of a new era: one where nature, technology, ancient wisdom, and community preparedness work in harmony to protect every Sri Lankan village and every visiting tourist.
The Current System’s Fatal Gaps
Today, Sri Lanka’s disaster management system is dangerously underpowered for the accelerating climate era. Our primary reliance is on monsoon rainfall tracking and cyclone alerts — helpful, but inadequate in the face of multi-hazard threats such as flash floods, landslides, droughts, lightning storms, and urban inundation.
Institutions are fragmented; responsibilities crisscross between agencies, often with unclear mandates and slow decision cycles. Community-level preparedness is minimal — nearly half of households lack basic knowledge on what to do when a disaster strikes. Infrastructure in key regions is outdated, with urban drains, tank sluices, and bunds built for rainfall patterns of the 1960s, not today’s intense cloudbursts or sea-level rise.
Critically, Sri Lanka is not yet integrated with global planetary systems — solar winds, El Niño cycles, Indian Ocean Dipole shifts — despite clear evidence that these invisible climate forces shape our rainfall, storm intensity, and drought rhythms. Worse, we have lost touch with our ancestral systems of environmental management — from tank cascades to forest sanctuaries — that sustained this island for over two millennia.
This system, in short, is outdated, siloed, and reactive. And it must change.
A New Vision for Disaster-Proof Sri Lanka
Under the new policy shift, Sri Lanka will adopt a complete resilience architecture that transforms climate disaster prevention into a national development strategy. This system rests on five interlinked pillars:
Science and Predictive Intelligence
We will move beyond surface-level forecasting. A new national climate intelligence platform will integrate:
AI-driven pattern recognition of rainfall and flood events
Global data from solar activity, ocean oscillations (ENSO, MJO, IOD)
High-resolution digital twins of floodplains and cities
Real-time satellite feeds on cyclone trajectory and ocean heat
The adverse impacts of global warming—such as sea-level rise, the proliferation of pests and diseases affecting human health and food production, and the change of functionality of chlorophyll—must be systematically captured, rigorously analysed, and addressed through proactive, advance decision-making.
This fusion of local and global data will allow days to weeks of anticipatory action, rather than hours of late alerts.
Advanced Technology and Early Warning Infrastructure
Cell-broadcast alerts in all three national languages, expanded weather radar, flood-sensing drones, and tsunami-resilient siren networks will be deployed. Community-level sensors in key river basins and tanks will monitor and report in real-time. Infrastructure projects will now embed climate-risk metrics — from cyclone-proof buildings to sea-level-ready roads.
Governance Overhaul
A new centralised authority — Sri Lanka Climate & Earth Systems Resilience Authority — will consolidate environmental, meteorological, Geological, hydrological, and disaster functions. It will report directly to the Cabinet with a real-time national dashboard. District Disaster Units will be upgraded with GN-level digital coordination. Climate literacy will be declared a national priority.
People Power and Community Preparedness
We will train 25,000 village-level disaster wardens and first responders. Schools will run annual drills for floods, cyclones, tsunamis and landslides. Every community will map its local hazard zones and co-create its own resilience plan. A national climate citizenship programme will reward youth and civil organisations contributing to early warning systems, reforestation (riverbank, slopy land and catchment areas) , or tech solutions.
Reviving Ancient Ecological Wisdom
Sri Lanka’s ancestors engineered tank cascades that regulated floods, stored water, and cooled microclimates. Forest belts protected valleys; sacred groves were biodiversity reservoirs. This policy revives those systems:
Restoring 10,000 hectares of tank ecosystems
Conserving coastal mangroves and reintroducing stone spillways
Integrating traditional seasonal calendars with AI forecasts
Recognising Vedda knowledge of climate shifts as part of national risk strategy
Our past and future must align, or both will be lost.
A Global Destination for Resilient Tourism
Climate-conscious travelers increasingly seek safe, secure, and sustainable destinations. Under this policy, Sri Lanka will position itself as the world’s first “climate-safe sanctuary island” — a place where:
Resorts are cyclone- and tsunami-resilient
Tourists receive live hazard updates via mobile apps
World Heritage Sites are protected by environmental buffers
Visitors can witness tank restoration, ancient climate engineering, and modern AI in action
Sri Lanka will invite scientists, startups, and resilience investors to join our innovation ecosystem — building eco-tourism that’s disaster-proof by design.
Resilience as a National Identity
This shift is not just about floods or cyclones. It is about redefining our identity. To be Sri Lankan must mean to live in harmony with nature and to be ready for its changes. Our ancestors did it. The science now supports it. The time has come.
Let us turn Sri Lanka into the world’s first climate-resilient heritage island — where ancient wisdom meets cutting-edge science, and every citizen stands protected under one shield: a disaster-proof nation.
Features
The minstrel monk and Rafiki the old mandrill in The Lion King – I
Why is national identity so important for a people? AI provides us with an answer worth understanding critically (Caveat: Even AI wisdom should be subjected to the Buddha’s advice to the young Kalamas):
‘A strong sense of identity is crucial for a people as it fosters belonging, builds self-worth, guides behaviour, and provides resilience, allowing individuals to feel connected, make meaningful choices aligned with their values, and maintain mental well-being even amidst societal changes or challenges, acting as a foundation for individual and collective strength. It defines “who we are” culturally and personally, driving shared narratives, pride, political action, and healthier relationships by grounding people in common values, traditions, and a sense of purpose.’
Ethnic Sinhalese who form about 75% of the Sri Lankan population have such a unique identity secured by the binding medium of their Buddhist faith. It is significant that 93% of them still remain Buddhist (according to 2024 statistics/wikipedia), professing Theravada Buddhism, after four and a half centuries of coercive Christianising European occupation that ended in 1948. The Sinhalese are a unique ancient island people with a 2500 year long recorded history, their own language and country, and their deeply evolved Buddhist cultural identity.
Buddhism can be defined, rather paradoxically, as a non-religious religion, an eminently practical ethical-philosophy based on mind cultivation, wisdom and universal compassion. It is an ethico-spiritual value system that prioritises human reason and unaided (i.e., unassisted by any divine or supernatural intervention) escape from suffering through self-realisation. Sri Lanka’s benignly dominant Buddhist socio-cultural background naturally allows unrestricted freedom of religion, belief or non-belief for all its citizens, and makes the country a safe spiritual haven for them. The island’s Buddha Sasana (Dispensation of the Buddha) is the inalienable civilisational treasure that our ancestors of two and a half millennia have bequeathed to us. It is this enduring basis of our identity as a nation which bestows on us the personal and societal benefits of inestimable value mentioned in the AI summary given at the beginning of this essay.
It was this inherent national identity that the Sri Lankan contestant at the 72nd Miss World 2025 pageant held in Hyderabad, India, in May last year, Anudi Gunasekera, proudly showcased before the world, during her initial self-introduction. She started off with a verse from the Dhammapada (a Pali Buddhist text), which she explained as meaning “Refrain from all evil and cultivate good”. She declared, “And I believe that’s my purpose in life”. Anudi also mentioned that Sri Lanka had gone through a lot “from conflicts to natural disasters, pandemics, economic crises….”, adding, “and yet, my people remain hopeful, strong, and resilient….”.
“Ayubowan! I am Anudi Gunasekera from Sri Lanka. It is with immense pride that I represent my Motherland, a nation of resilience, timeless beauty, and a proud history, Sri Lanka.
“I come from Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka’s first capital, and UNESCO World Heritage site, with its history and its legacy of sacred monuments and stupas…….”.
The “inspiring words” that Anudi quoted are from the Dhammapada (Verse 183), which runs, in English translation: “To avoid all evil/To cultivate good/and to cleanse one’s mind -/this is the teaching of the Buddhas”. That verse is so significant because it defines the basic ‘teaching of the Buddhas’ (i.e., Buddha Sasana; this is how Walpole Rahula Thera defines Buddha Sasana in his celebrated introduction to Buddhism ‘What the Buddha Taught’ first published in1959).
Twenty-five year old Anudi Gunasekera is an alumna of the University of Kelaniya, where she earned a bachelor’s degree in International Studies. She is planning to do a Master’s in the same field. Her ambition is to join the foreign service in Sri Lanka. Gen Z’er Anudi is already actively engaged in social service. The Saheli Foundation is her own initiative launched to address period poverty (i.e., lack of access to proper sanitation facilities, hygiene and health education, etc.) especially among women and post-puberty girls of low-income classes in rural and urban Sri Lanka.
Young Anudi is primarily inspired by her patriotic devotion to ‘my Motherland, a nation of resilience, timeless beauty, and a proud history, Sri Lanka’. In post-independence Sri Lanka, thousands of young men and women of her age have constantly dedicated themselves, oftentimes making the supreme sacrifice, motivated by a sense of national identity, by the thought ‘This is our beloved Motherland, these are our beloved people’.
The rescue and recovery of Sri Lanka from the evil aftermath of a decade of subversive ‘Aragalaya’ mayhem is waiting to be achieved, in every sphere of national engagement, including, for example, economics, communications, culture and politics, by the enlightened Anudi Gunasekeras and their male counterparts of the Gen Z, but not by the demented old stragglers lingering in the political arena listening to the unnerving rattle of “Time’s winged chariot hurrying near”, nor by the baila blaring monks at propaganda rallies.
Politically active monks (Buddhist bhikkhus) are only a handful out of the Maha Sangha (the general body of Buddhist bhikkhus) in Sri Lanka, who numbered just over 42,000 in 2024. The vast majority of monks spend their time quietly attending to their monastic duties. Buddhism upholds social and emotional virtues such as universal compassion, empathy, tolerance and forgiveness that protect a society from the evils of tribalism, religious bigotry and death-dealing religious piety.
Not all monks who express or promote political opinions should be censured. I choose to condemn only those few monks who abuse the yellow robe as a shield in their narrow partisan politics. I cannot bring myself to disapprove of the many socially active monks, who are articulating the genuine problems that the Buddha Sasana is facing today. The two bhikkhus who are the most despised monks in the commercial media these days are Galaboda-aththe Gnanasara and Ampitiye Sumanaratana Theras. They have a problem with their mood swings. They have long been whistleblowers trying to raise awareness respectively, about spreading religious fundamentalism, especially, violent Islamic Jihadism, in the country and about the vandalising of the Buddhist archaeological heritage sites of the north and east provinces. The two middle-aged monks (Gnanasara and Sumanaratana) belong to this respectable category. Though they are relentlessly attacked in the social media or hardly given any positive coverage of the service they are doing, they do nothing more than try to persuade the rulers to take appropriate action to resolve those problems while not trespassing on the rights of people of other faiths.
These monks have to rely on lay political leaders to do the needful, without themselves taking part in sectarian politics in the manner of ordinary members of the secular society. Their generally demonised social image is due, in my opinion, to three main reasons among others: 1) spreading misinformation and disinformation about them by those who do not like what they are saying and doing, 2) their own lack of verbal restraint, and 3) their being virtually abandoned to the wolves by the temporal and spiritual authorities.
(To be continued)
By Rohana R. Wasala ✍️
Features
US’ drastic aid cut to UN poses moral challenge to world
‘Adapt, shrink or die’ – thus runs the warning issued by the Trump administration to UN humanitarian agencies with brute insensitivity in the wake of its recent decision to drastically reduce to $2bn its humanitarian aid to the UN system. This is a substantial climb down from the $17bn the US usually provided to the UN for its humanitarian operations.
Considering that the US has hitherto been the UN’s biggest aid provider, it need hardly be said that the US decision would pose a daunting challenge to the UN’s humanitarian operations around the world. This would indeed mean that, among other things, people living in poverty and stifling material hardships, in particularly the Southern hemisphere, could dramatically increase. Coming on top of the US decision to bring to an end USAID operations, the poor of the world could be said to have been left to their devices as a consequence of these morally insensitive policy rethinks of the Trump administration.
Earlier, the UN had warned that it would be compelled to reduce its aid programs in the face of ‘the deepest funding cuts ever.’ In fact the UN is on record as requesting the world for $23bn for its 2026 aid operations.
If this UN appeal happens to go unheeded, the possibilities are that the UN would not be in a position to uphold the status it has hitherto held as the world’s foremost humanitarian aid provider. It would not be incorrect to state that a substantial part of the rationale for the UN’s existence could come in for questioning if its humanitarian identity is thus eroded.
Inherent in these developments is a challenge for those sections of the international community that wish to stand up and be counted as humanists and the ‘Conscience of the World.’ A responsibility is cast on them to not only keep the UN system going but to also ensure its increased efficiency as a humanitarian aid provider to particularly the poorest of the poor.
It is unfortunate that the US is increasingly opting for a position of international isolation. Such a policy position was adopted by it in the decades leading to World War Two and the consequences for the world as a result of this policy posture were most disquieting. For instance, it opened the door to the flourishing of dictatorial regimes in the West, such as that led by Adolph Hitler in Germany, which nearly paved the way for the subjugation of a good part of Europe by the Nazis.
If the US had not intervened militarily in the war on the side of the Allies, the West would have faced the distressing prospect of coming under the sway of the Nazis and as a result earned indefinite political and military repression. By entering World War Two the US helped to ward off these bleak outcomes and indeed helped the major democracies of Western Europe to hold their own and thrive against fascism and dictatorial rule.
Republican administrations in the US in particular have not proved the greatest defenders of democratic rule the world over, but by helping to keep the international power balance in favour of democracy and fundamental human rights they could keep under a tight leash fascism and linked anti-democratic forces even in contemporary times. Russia’s invasion and continued occupation of parts of Ukraine reminds us starkly that the democracy versus fascism battle is far from over.
Right now, the US needs to remain on the side of the rest of the West very firmly, lest fascism enjoys another unfettered lease of life through the absence of countervailing and substantial military and political power.
However, by reducing its financial support for the UN and backing away from sustaining its humanitarian programs the world over the US could be laying the ground work for an aggravation of poverty in the South in particular and its accompaniments, such as, political repression, runaway social discontent and anarchy.
What should not go unnoticed by the US is the fact that peace and social stability in the South and the flourishing of the same conditions in the global North are symbiotically linked, although not so apparent at first blush. For instance, if illegal migration from the South to the US is a major problem for the US today, it is because poor countries are not receiving development assistance from the UN system to the required degree. Such deprivation on the part of the South leads to aggravating social discontent in the latter and consequences such as illegal migratory movements from South to North.
Accordingly, it will be in the North’s best interests to ensure that the South is not deprived of sustained development assistance since the latter is an essential condition for social contentment and stable governance, which factors in turn would guard against the emergence of phenomena such as illegal migration.
Meanwhile, democratic sections of the rest of the world in particular need to consider it a matter of conscience to ensure the sustenance and flourishing of the UN system. To be sure, the UN system is considerably flawed but at present it could be called the most equitable and fair among international development organizations and the most far-flung one. Without it world poverty would have proved unmanageable along with the ills that come along with it.
Dehumanizing poverty is an indictment on humanity. It stands to reason that the world community should rally round the UN and ensure its survival lest the abomination which is poverty flourishes. In this undertaking the world needs to stand united. Ambiguities on this score could be self-defeating for the world community.
For example, all groupings of countries that could demonstrate economic muscle need to figure prominently in this initiative. One such grouping is BRICS. Inasmuch as the US and the West should shrug aside Realpolitik considerations in this enterprise, the same goes for organizations such as BRICS.
The arrival at the above international consensus would be greatly facilitated by stepped up dialogue among states on the continued importance of the UN system. Fresh efforts to speed-up UN reform would prove major catalysts in bringing about these positive changes as well. Also requiring to be shunned is the blind pursuit of narrow national interests.
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