Features
My Grandmother in her Kitchen
Jayantha Perera’s delightful article in last Sunday’s Island about how his grandmother made jaadi in her Paiyagala home was absorbingly interesting, nostalgic too. He said he still smells that extra pungent kind of dried fish which when fried was the best of a meal. Reading his article, a conjured up curry smell wafted below my nose – not jaadi though. Accompanying the whiff was a vision that passed through my remembering mind: my maternal grandmother in her warm kitchen.
Their home
My maternal grandparents lived in Boyagama, one mile from Peradeniya. The house had an open verandah supported by four tall white columns which had the less decorative Ionic ornate tops. The middle door led to my Aththa’s domain: sitting room, office, bedroom, dining room with a shrine room tucked beside it. The door at the left led to a newly built wing lived in by two uncles. The right hand door led to the vee maduwa – a large room with cupboards above for storing paddy.
This led to the pantry beside which on one side were three bedrooms and on the opposite side the kitchen. The doors leading from the verandah were used by relatives and respected visitors A side door to the paddy stocked room was used by the upper echelon of servers. A door from the back yard opening into the pantry was for manual labourers and servants. A fourth door led to the place where paddy was pound which was adjacent to the meda midula and used by the padu women who converted paddy grain to rice using mortar and pestle.
While Aththa lived in comfort and had as his domain a Yati Nuwara Korale, Amma as we called our grandmother, mother being Mamma, ruled her kitchen area. We should have called her Aththa or Athamma but my siblings and I used this more intimate term.
The kitchen proper was a large room with a cowdunged floor and five hearths build at floor level along one wall. Above this was the dum messa with hoisted up mats and such like, also tucked in the corner a kurini petti of delicacies and bundles of jaggery, treacle tied up in arecanut spathes – absolutely non porous and non spilly. Especially when grandchildren were holidaying, a cupboard in the pantry had containers of sweets – kavun, aggala, and lots of other goodies, the crème de la crème being of course, unduvel.
Our Amma (Athamma really) was a small, very fair, eternally active person always neatly dressed in a sari with jacket, bodice and petticoat festooned with hand crotched lace. Aththa was very tall, very imposing with a flowing beard and dressed in a Palayakat sarong at home with a silver havadiya wound many times around his waist. Going out he wore a tweed cloth and coat with a watch in one pocket. She too would dress herself to the nines when she went for a wedding. I saw her once thus, in a rich Indian silk, decked in jewellery made by the galadda (goldsmith caste), seated on the verandah of the house.
THE Kitchen
It’s her kitchen I mean to write about and culinary specialties. I mentioned the ground level hearths. The last one to the left was always kept glowing with paddy husks (dahaiya) alight. Over it hung a black kettle, eternally on the boil. The room was large and always rather smoky but we loved the comfort and warmth within with a fat cook woman and one or two young girls bustling around.
The latter were my friends. They’d sneak in bringing us three siblings a saucer of blobs of semisolid jaggery as it was being made. When oil was extracted by stirring for long scraped coconut or king coconut kernel over a fire, the residue was a dream tasty sludge. This was supposed to upset one’s stomach but the kitchen friends would smuggle this delicacy too, to us.
All the coconut oil needed for cooking and hair dressing was made in-house, so also treacle and jaggery. Not much sugar was bought. A man of the panna caste (learnt much later) would climb the few kitul trees in the vast compound and tap the inflorescences. Amma would give us a cup each of the thelijja – newly brought down, unfermented sap. She considered it healthy and she was right, even though vitamins and such like were not known to her. This was boiled down and treacle made, or boiled longer till it became semisolid and poured into moulds to produce ‘sophisticated’ patterned jaggery or in cleaned half coconut shells to harden into hakuru bewas.
The vegetable garden and dairy were under grandmother’s jurisdiction. True, most of the vegetables needed including chilies, lime and tomato were home grown but potato, onions of both kinds, garlic, salt and some other stuff like dried fish was bought from P S Fernando Store in Kandy. Spices – cardamom nutmeg, cloves, ginger, tamarind – were home grown; cinnamon bought.
A milk giving cow was always in the dairy but when one of his daughters was expecting a baby, Aththa would buy a cow to yield milk of the correct consistency for the new mother so she could breast feed her infant. The milking man not arriving one day and the udder full cow mooing, grandmother took the milking pail and went to the cow, placed the stool beside her, sat on it, and was about to stretch her hands to the cow’s underside when the creature gave a hefty kick sending poor Amma somersaulting and landing very undignified. Women ran to her rescue. Aththa did not have to tell her the dairy was not within her rule!
Curries Polos,
the young jak fruit, was selected from trees known to yield super fruits for cooking. The skin was sliced off, the inside cut into right sized pieces and plenty of coconut milk and condiments used in the curry. I don’t remember how Grandmother did it but my sister would tie all the spices in a cloth bag and let it be boiled with the pieces of polos. An absolutely aromatic ambula had to have the pieces of immature jak reddish in colour, of the very correct softness, and the gravy, red, with a film of oil on top, with of course a delicious smell emanating.
The major elements that turned out such a curry were ath guna–skill and good luck of the cooking person – and the seasoned pot being placed overnight on a glowing dahaiya hearth. Usually the cooking was done outdoors since the pot was extra large, but the final simmering was indoors. A little before the curry was fully cooked, pieces of coconut about two inches long were thrown into the pot.
Two other special curries were katu puhul –a spicy curry of chunky pieces of ash pumpkin which was rid of its skin whole, then vigorously pricked with a fork and cut to pieces. The redish gravy was excellent. A kind of ala kola, large leaves off a marsh plant were picked, washed, rolled into cigar shapes, sun dried and then cooked dry. These two curries with others like karola badun were a must when rice and curry was taken to a relative’s home in a kurini pettiya – reed woven, circular containers.
Served Lunch
I have to mention how the Queen of the Mahagedera kussiya served lunch. We had dinner at table, serving ourselves or being served. Breakfast too which was invariably kiributh made in different forms, like blobs rolled in cut arecanut spathes with polpani inside. But lunch was different in the way it was laid out for us. Grandfather had his lunch in his domain, dished out separately in fine china, table laid with silver cutlery. He did not use his fingers when eating by himself. He would invite us kids but we shied away. Amma’s domain was best for meals.
Maybe there were many outsiders for lunch. Vast amounts of rice and curry were cooked. The kitchen helping girls would lay out the plates: fine china for uncles and any visitors, decorative china soup bowls for Mother and aunts present, and bakelight plates for us kids. The servants had belek pigang. I shudder now but it went unnoticed then – the way it was and not complained about – round shaped arecanut spathes for the rice pounding padu women and garden working men.
Grandmother would sit on a stool surrounded by these plates laid on a mat on the ground. The rice thambaheliya (brass pot) would be overturned on a washed, woven square mat with raised sides and the rice evened with a spoon. Then Grandma would ladle the rice to the plates, and the cook woman the curries. The kitchen was filled with delicious aromas and we kids sat on very low kolombas with three legged stools holding our plates.
Those were the days, my friends and Ajantha Perera, of spacious living, ordered and secure. Corruption was not heard of; arguments and fights mild and easily settled; politics left severely to politicians and persons knowing their place and work to be done. However, the caste system accepted by all was an unjust aberration; not even those who were deemed of low caste seemed to notice discrimination. Free education and marching time fortuitously did away with this ignominious societal blemish.
Features
Coercive laws recipe for future misrule
by Jehan Perera
The NPP government is going after powerful figures from the past and present who have engaged in corruption, fraud and criminal activity in a way that no previous government in Sri Lanka has done. Former ministers, politicians and senior state officials are among those facing investigations and legal proceedings. The government has placed before Parliament a document listing 50 cases involving corruption, fraud and other crimes. These include not only financial offences but also cases relating to the Easter Sunday attacks, the killings of Lasantha Wickrematunge and Wasim Thajudeen, the disappearance of Prageeth Ekneligoda and attacks on journalists Keith Noyahr and Upali Tennakoon.
The significance of this effort is that it can demonstrate that nobody is above the law, regardless of political connections or social standing, which will help restore public confidence in institutions that have long been distrusted. It could also recover public resources, improve the investment climate and strengthen the foundations for a more prosperous and just Sri Lanka. When criticised for focusing on the past and not the present, the government position is that these investigations were initiated under earlier governments, particularly between 2015 and 2019, and that it is now allowing investigators to proceed to deal with the backlog without political interference.
But there is an aspect of the government’s approach that is less justifiable. While pursuing past wrongdoing by powerful individuals, it is also advancing a triumvirate of draft laws that could give the state sweeping powers over citizens, organisations and dissent in the present and future. The draft Prevention of Terrorism legislation, the Prevention of Organised Crimes Bill and the NGO Registration and Supervision Bill raise serious questions about the over-centralisation of power. Each of these laws strengthens the powers of the state while weakening the rights and safeguards that protect people from their misuse and thus questions the basic rights of people in democracy where ‘the power of the people is vested in the government’. This is a recipe for future misrule rather than the rule of law. As the well-known saying goes, power corrupts and absolute power corrupts absolutely.
Proposed Laws
The real test of system change, for which the government obtained an overwhelming mandate, requires not only a government willing to hold others accountable, but one prepared to subject itself to the same principles of legality, transparency and restraint. The three proposed laws that are particularly important in this regard are the Protection of the State from Terrorism Bill, the Prevention of Organised Crimes Bill and the NGO Registration and Supervision Bill. Each of these draft laws has been presented as serving a legitimate purpose. Preventing terrorism, combating organised crime and ensuring that NGOs do not facilitate money laundering or terrorist financing are proper responsibilities of the state. Sri Lanka has international obligations in these areas, and no responsible government can disregard them. However, the existence of a legitimate objective does not justify every means adopted to achieve it.
The proposed Protection of the State from Terrorism Bill illustrates the problem. Although its definition of terrorism draws on a model developed by a former United Nations Special Rapporteur, the Human Rights Commission of Sri Lanka has warned that the definition of terrorism extends beyond the model and could bring legitimate political protest, trade union action and civil disobedience within the scope of counter-terrorism legislation. Its concerns also include prolonged detention, inadequate judicial oversight and restrictions on access to legal counsel. These are objections that go to the heart of the relationship between the citizen and the state. The government cannot credibly promise to protect democratic freedoms while creating powers that could be used to restrict them. It is necessary for the government to reassess the draft through transparent consultation and revise provisions that could criminalise legitimate dissent.
The Prevention of Organised Crimes Bill raises similar concerns. It is presented as giving effect to the United Nations Convention against Transnational Organised Crime, which Sri Lanka ratified in 2006. The Centre for Policy Alternatives (CPA) has argued that the convention does not require many of the bill’s provisions. The proposed law extends to a broad range of offences, permits detention orders lasting up to a year, makes confessions to police admissible for purposes of legal evidence, and introduces extensive surveillance powers. A law intended to dismantle criminal networks should not create a parallel system of exceptional powers that could be applied far beyond organised crime. Nor should safeguards developed through years of experience with abuses under the Prevention of Terrorism Act be weakened through legislation bearing a different name. The government should review whether or not existing laws could be used effectively to control these crimes or whether each exceptional power is necessary.
Civil Society
The proposed NGO Registration and Supervision Bill presents another test of the government’s intentions. The government may reasonably seek transparency in the finances of organisations receiving public or foreign funds, including measures to prevent money laundering and terrorist financing. It seeks to justify its overreach on the grounds of meeting the internationally mandated requirements of the Financial Action Task Force (FATF) for the Asia-Pacific region. But these objectives do not justify placing civil society and NGOs under excessive administrative control when even the FATF ranks them as low to medium risks. The draft bill would require registration and renewal, impose extensive obligations on organisations and empower authorities to suspend or deregister them on broadly framed grounds. It is important to redraft provisions that confer excessive discretion over registration, renewal, suspension and deregistration of NGOs.
Among the concerns raised by United Nations human rights special rapporteurs with regard to the draft NGO law are provisions requiring organisations to align with government policies and restrictions that could affect advocacy, dissent and freedom of association. The implications extend well beyond organisations that engage directly with the government. Community groups, human rights organisations, independent researchers and organisations working on reconciliation or accountability could find their activities constrained by uncertainty over how these provisions might be interpreted. Organisations that criticise government policies are not thereby working against the country. Their freedom to do so is part of what distinguishes a democracy from a system in which the government determines which opinions and activities are acceptable.
The government has generated considerable public goodwill through its pursuit of corruption and criminality. It should not assume that this goodwill gives it an unlimited mandate to strengthen the coercive powers of the state. The NPP knows from its own history that governments can treat dissent as a threat and use the machinery of the state against their opponents. There is still time to correct the drafts through transparent public consultation, narrow definitions of offences, meaningful judicial control over detention and surveillance, and effective remedies against arbitrary decisions. A government that pursues corruption while weakening safeguards against state abuse risks undermining its own achievements. Besides bringing to light the abuse of power by previous governments, the NPP government needs to build a system in which no future government can abuse power in the belief they can get away with it.
Features
Quality assurance without quality enhancement: The irony of university QA
By Ramya Kumar
According to the Quality Assurance Council (QAC) of the University Grants Commission (UGC), quality assurance (QA) refers to “the means (i.e. the policies, attitudes, actions, procedures, etc.), by which an institution can guarantee with confidence and certainty, that the standards and quality of its educational provision are being maintained and enhanced”.
An expansive structure has been in place since 2005 to govern and implement QA processes within the state university system. The QAC is the focal point at the UGC that implements external reviews of state universities and institutes. Each university has its own Centre for Quality Assurance (CQA) tasked with performing QA in line with QAC directives. Faculties, in turn, have Internal Quality Assurance Cells (IQAC) performing their own QA; they are answerable to the CQA.
The big question is whether this all-encompassing top-down QA system, that in many ways undermines the internal dynamics of university governance, actually supports universities to enhance the quality of education. This article highlights some concerns.
Top-down check-box activities
The QAC conducts external reviews of universities and degree programmes. A review team appointed by the UGC (who may or may not have experience in the institution/programme in question) examines the self-evaluation report submitted by the said institution/programme. The team then conducts a site visit to verify the claims made in the university’s self-evaluation report, clarify issues identified during the desk review, and examine how QA procedures operate in practice. The team holds meetings with the university administration, members of the Council and Senate, Deans, Heads of Departments, academic and non-academic staff, students, and others. Following the visit, a draft report is submitted to the relevant institution/programme for comment before final publication. The reviewed institution/programme then prepares and publishes an action plan addressing the recommendations, with subsequent monitoring of progress.
There are some worthy QA initiatives under implementation, such as improving facilities for students with disabilities and strengthening mechanisms to address sexual- and gender-based violence. However, for the most part, QA activities have little to do with improving the quality of education. They are mostly preoccupied with monitoring faculty and department websites, digital transformation, student feedback, subject evaluation, course evaluation, peer evaluation, and, more recently, staff appraisal. These activities, which consume an inordinate amount of time—so precious at understaffed universities—have become check-box activities completed to generate evidence for the next review. Below is an excerpt of a conversation between two academics (1 and 2) that conveys how QA plays out at universities (reproduced with permission).
1: … .it’s like social media you know, like posting things on Facebook or twitter or Instagram. When people do a lot of social media, everything they do, they do thinking, “okay I’m going to post it in this way… this I have to put on my Instagram.” QA is a little like that… everything is considered in light of, “ah we can use this for the review, as evidence… for example very recently we were encouraged to have all the things that we do in our department in the faculty newsletter so then they can put in the review. Every little thing has to be noted down….
2: And with pictures and all…
1: At the very least it has to be written so that you have written evidence .. you can’t be doing something for the sake of doing something or because it is good for the department … and sometimes people tell me “oh yea that’s a good idea we can fit that under this x, y section of the review..”
2: Yea, and nobody really thinks about the actual outcome… whether it’s actually helping anyone..
1: I also find that a lot of the words that we used in different ways have now been co-opted to the QA discourse ..including quality.. I can’t actually say what I want as an “outcome”, for example, that the outcome of this workshop is that my students “think about” … then I am told “ah but no that’s not one of the Bloom’s taxonomy words, “think about”.…
2: And the worst part is these medical and agriculture people, these types of people go around spreading it like some kind of gospel!
1: Yea, this cookie cutter way of doing things, they think is the height of innovativeness or creativity, when actually it is so mundane … for me the most awful thing about it is like some fungus of mundanity has taken over through QA reviews.
2: yea, when you say QA, my mind closes off immediately and I stop listening…
Auditing everything but power
QA leaves out crucial aspects of university governance. For instance, there is no review or assessment of the “quality” of university administrations under Criterion 1 or the integrity of procedures governing the promotion of academic staff under Criterion 6 of the institutional reviews.
The majority in the Council—the university’s executive and governing body, which is responsible for selecting the Vice-Chancellor (VC)—are appointed in ad hoc fashion. Apart from the Ex-Officio members in the Council (VC, Deans, etc.), and the two members elected by the Senate, the remainder are appointed by the UGC with no formal consultation or vetting procedure. The VC appointment process described in UGC Circular No. 03/2023 exemplifies how an ostensibly technical process can become entangled in political sycophancy. The Registrar invites applications for the position of VC through advertisement. Applicants must submit a curriculum vitae, a statement of vision for the university and supporting documents. The University Council appoints a three-member Search Committee of senior academics to encourage “eminent persons” to apply, while the UGC appoints a former VC from another university to “observe” the selection process.
A Special Meeting of the University Council is convened. Candidates are interviewed and must make a presentation to the Council Members, followed by questions. Each Council member “gives marks” for seven prescribed criteria: strategic focus (20%), effective leadership (20%), holistic thinking/conceptual skills (10%), academic and research excellence (15%), personal integrity (10%), professional communication (10%) and managerial competence (15%). Marks are averaged, and the Council recommends three candidates to the UGC in rank order. The UGC-appointed observer separately submits a confidential report on the selection process.
This procedure is expected to guarantee quality, but does it? Applications are submitted to the Council Members, who have been appointed on questionable bases, and who are expected to review the applications and give scores, based on objective assessments. But, in reality, most Council Members are manipulated by VC candidates, who often have personal ties with them. The UGC-appointed observer usually has no genuine interest in the outcome. And there is no way for anyone to actually question the Council’s decision once it is made. Although the highest-ranked candidate may ultimately be appointed, the selection remains a political decision made by the President, who retains the discretion to appoint any one of the three.
External reviews also do not look into the promotions of academic staff, except to scrutinise whether there are policies and procedures in place to govern promotion. Academic staff may apply for promotion to Professor once they satisfy the prescribed eligibility requirements, which typically include the period of service, academic qualifications, research and publication achievements, teaching experience, and contributions to the university and wider community. Applications are evaluated against specified criteria, with research output and academic contributions assessed through documentary evidence and expert evaluation. Under the UGC’s scheme for Professors, two experts from outside the applicant’s institution assess specified aspects of research and knowledge dissemination. Again, beneath this technical process, which is externally evaluated, lies a problematic points-based scheme that can be manipulated and abused with impunity.
Rethinking university QA
Like the VC election process and the schemes of promotion for academic staff, QA reviews are open to manipulation. Before a review, there is a chaotic rush to complete evidence gathering and reporting. Academics leave all other work aside, including at times their teaching, to focus on completing documentation and preparing reports. The standardised criteria in the review manuals and scoring sheets often do not reflect differences in disciplines and institutional contexts. But this does not really matter because any serious problems experienced by institutions or programmes are hastily brushed under the carpet to conceal any evidence that could taint the review. The goal is to obtain an A or at least a B grade at whatever cost.
QA may result in positive change if it moves beyond top-down check-box activities towards internally designed and owned processes encompassing all aspects of university governance, led by departments and faculties, and supported by adequate resources. The current QA system needs to be dismantled and replaced by procedures that are accountable, not to the UGC, but to our students and the communities we serve.
(Ramya Kumar is attached to the Department of Community and Family Medicine, Faculty of Medicine, University of Jaffna)
. Kuppi is a politics and pedagogy happening on the margins of the lecture hall that parodies, subverts, and simultaneously reaffirms social hierarchies.
Features
Down Memory Lane — the Grand 20th Edition!
Yes, Down Memory Lane, the beloved Sing-Along concert series that first struck a chord, way back in 1997, returns for its landmark 20th edition this Saturday, 17th October, at the beautiful Bolgoda Grand Resort, Moratuwa town centre.
Having celebrated its glorious 25th anniversary with the show in 2023, this milestone 20th concert promises to be even more special.
The organisers, the ever-popular Moratuwa Arts Forum, are pulling out all the stops to present yet another unforgettable evening, brimming with camaraderie, fellowship, and pure nostalgia.
Get ready for two-and-a-half hours of non-stop singing as veteran vocalists, from the Moratuwa Arts Forum, will take the stage to lead and inspire the happy audience to sing, sing and sing to their hearts’ content.
The repertoire? Absolutely magical, according to the organisers.

Veteran Arun Dias Bandaranaike: Will handle the evening’s proceedings / Priya Peiris: Event Conceptor
Around 40 golden oldies — from timeless English vintage evergreens and hits from the 50s to the 90s, to toe-tapping calypsos, soulful American plantation melodies, rousing cowboy and Dixieland favourites, aa well as cherished Sinhala standards. All to be sung with much gusto!
This year’s dedicated organising committee comprises Brian Coorey (Chairman), Priya Peiris (Event Conceptor), Hiran Fernando, Suranga Fernando, Viranjan Perera, Hemka Fernando and Neelesh Silva. Guidance and support comes from Moratuwa Arts Forum President Sarana Guneratne and Secretary Chandani Silva.
Adding his signature charm to the evening, as Master of Ceremonies, will be the veteran Arun Dias Bandaranaike.
Don’t miss this landmark celebration of music and memories!
For further details, contact Hiran Fernando on 0772636446 or WhatsApp 0783636446.
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