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How Indian Perfumers Capture the Smell of Rain

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Grasse-fragrant city

In Kannauj , perfumers have been making monsoon- infused mitti attar for centuries

BY ZINARA RATHNAYAKE

THE ALLURING, MUSKY FRAGRANCE OF marigolds floats from a Hindu shrine, as a group of men laugh over ginger-infused milk teas served in clay cups called kulhads. In a nearby perfume distillery, a man turns his head towards the laughter as he crushes a batch of discarded kulhads. Here in Kannauj, a town in the north Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, generations of perfumers have used kulhads and other clay materials to capture an enticing scent known as mitti attar.

“It’s the smell of the baked, parched earth when the first rains arrive after a long drought,” says Rajat Mehrotra, co-owner of the family-run Meena Perfumery. Perfumers like Mehrotra, who runs the company with his brother, have been bottling the enigmatic fragrance for centuries.

At his office, some 500 feet away from Meena’s tin-roofed distillery, Mehothra carefully pours the thick mitti attar oil into a glass bottle. “You cannot get mitti attar anywhere else,” he says, resting his eyes on each precious drop—0.26 gallons sell for about 180,000 Indian rupees, around $2,178.

Attars, also spelled ittar, are scented oils made from natural ingredients. The scent profiles in attars vary widely, from fragrances derived from flowers such as Damsak roses and jasmine to heavy, warm scents made from agarwood. Mitti means “earth,” and mitti attar loosely translates to the smell of rain-soaked earth. The fragrance is made only here in Kannauj using a special, centuries-old technique.

A worker carefully maintains the flames beneath the aromatic-filled copper vats, using dried cow dung to increase the heat or water to cool the flames

Despite the scent’s long local history, little is known about mitti attar’s origins, says Giti Datt, a boutique perfume house owner and an anthropologist at the Australian National University who studies attar. Datt says nobody knows when attars were first made or why Kannauj is the epicenter. It’s believed that attar distillation is similar to a distillation method found in the Indus Valley Civilization between 3300 BC to 1300 BC. “If that’s true, the process has survived the fall of civilizations and empires and conquerors,” says Datt.

Ancient Indus people used aromatic waters and plant extracts to create different scents used in medicine and religious rituals; later Vedic Age people continued these practices, wrote historian Jyoti Marwah in the paper, Attars: The Fading Aromatic Cultures of India. The Sanskrit epic Mahabharata—compiled by the end of the 3rd century—also mentions the use of perfume in royal courts. This indigenous Indian perfume practice later mingled with fragrance traditions of early Muslims who arrived in the subcontinent, says Datt. “So we ended up with a very unique, rich combination of Indo-Islamic perfume culture.”

This early 19th-century gouache painting shows a Muslim perfume seller (right) with his wife (left)

In the 19th century, the British colonized India and wiped out many indigenous art forms. “So we are trying to figure out what that meant for attar,” says Datt, who hasn’t found any Kannauj perfumery with pre-British origins. Mehrotra family’s business can only trace its roots to the 20th century. Although there’s little evidence, it’s possible that the British wanted to make attar into a commodity and set up the Kannauj perfume houses, says Datt.

Despite these murky origins, today mitti attar is well-known throughout the Indian subcontinent. Sacred Hindu scriptures such as the Bhagavad Gita reference the earth’s aroma after rainfall. “One can assume that it could be part of the inspiration for why people started bottling this unique smell,” says Datt.

Back at the factory, Mehrotra watches as a distiller collects kiln-baked clay discs bought from a local potter and other discarded clay materials, such as kulhads. The perfumer then dumps the clay materials (some 600 pounds of the stuff) into a large copper vat called a deg and pours in some water before closing it.

The distiller then takes a small, long-necked copper vessel, called a bhapka, that’s filled with sandalwood oil—the base of all attars. The bhapka’s opening is fixed to an angled bamboo pipe, which is in turn connected to the clay-filled deg. Once the set-up is complete, the distiller seals any opening with wet multani mitti, a type of clay often used as a skin cleanser. “Now, it’s naturally air-tight,” Mehrotra says, smiling.

Using a mix of wood and sun-dried cow dung, the distiller then lights up a small, carefully-controlled fire beneath the deg. For about seven hours, the clay and water-filled deg simmers over the flames. Mehrotra watches as the distiller splashes water onto the blaze, “because he knew the heat was too much.” If the flames go down, the distiller will add more cow dung to keep the fire hot enough.

When the clay boils inside the heated deg, an aromatic steam builds up and travels through the bamboo pipe and into the oil-filled bhapka. The sandalwood oil inside the bhapka then slowly absorbs the clay-essence of the vapour.

To make different scents, perfume distillers fill large copper vats with aromatics. When making mitti attar, they fill the vats with some 600 pounds of clay.

At the end of the day, the distillers separate the water from the sandalwood oil through a small opening. The entire process repeats for at least ten days until the thick oil is saturated with the heady fragrance of baked clay that mimics the smell of earth after monsoon showers. “You won’t get any smell in one day. It takes at least four or five days to start getting the aroma,” Mehrotra explains.

Once finished, perfumers store the mitti attar in camel-skin flasks, which helps excess water to evaporate and preserves the fragrance. “Attar is like liquor,” Mehrotra laughs. “It ages like fine wine. The older it becomes, the [more] mature and expensive it gets.”

Mehrotra has visitors and buyers from many countries, from Grasse, France, the “perfume capital of the world,” to New Delhi and Mumbai. “People from Grasse come here to see how we make mitti attar. They’ve tried [to make] it but they can’t get the right essence,” he says, showing his WhatsApp chats with French perfumers. Some of Mehrotra’s other buyers mix synthetic materials with attar to create new, unique scents of their own. “Attar is the base. They can’t make those perfumes without it. So anyone who wants natural perfume oil has to come here,” he says.

Distillers in New Delhi once made their own attars to use in paan, an after-meal mouth freshener in India, says Datt. But over the years, paan has fallen in popularity. “So a lot of those distillers stopped and moved into other businesses,” she says.

Despite these industry shifts, Datt says that attar continues to endure and evolve. “I don’t think it’s a dying industry, but certainly a changing one,” she says. “Certain types of markets—like paan—[are] maybe no longer there, but there are new, up-and-coming perfume houses in India that use attar, and we are seeing an increasingly growing switch towards natural oils across the world.”

Mehrotra says there’s more demand for attar than ever before. “If you use chemical perfumes, it’s not good for your body,” he says, “but attar is natural. You can even eat it!” It seems as long as people continue to savor the scent of monsoon rains on dry earth, mitti attar isn’t going anywhere.



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Life style

Blending additional warmth to festive v season

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Pegasus Reef Hotel brought a refreshing twist to the festive season with its much awaited ‘Tropical Christmas’ themed holiday activities by lighting the Christmas Tree and welcoming Santa to the tropics a press release said. The celebrations provided a unique and joyful experience for the whole family, blending the traditional warmth of the festive season with the vibrancy of a tropical setting. The beautifully lit tropical Christmas tree set the tone for both an unforgettable evening and a magical holiday season for all. Guests enjoyed a host of activities including interactive elements for children, including surprise Christmas gifts and photo opportunities with Santa said the release.

The centre piece of the festivities was Santa who made a grand entrance to the event having escaped the cold of the North Pole, to spread the joys of Christmas to young and old in a warm tropical setting. This added to the ambience and brought out that true festive spirit. Tropical-inspired cocktails were available along with delicious food to offer additional flavour to the celebrations.

Commenting on the celebrations, Renuke Coswatte, General Manager of Pegasus Reef Hotel said, “Our Christmas celebrations have always been highly anticipated and has set the tone for the season. This year, by giving festive traditions a tropical twist, we were able to provide our guests, their friends and families a truly unforgettable start to the holiday season. From ‘Santa’s Welcome Party’ coupled with the ‘Tropical Christmas Tree Lighting Ceremony’ and with what we have in store in December, the celebrations will truly be unforgettable.”

Pegasus Reef Hotel has garnered a reputation for hosting exciting festive events over the years, making it a top choice for year-end parties for all. So much so, that the hotels Christmas festivities are eagerly anticipated throughout the year. This year’s ‘Tropical Christmas’ celebration was an ideal opportunity for families, couples and friends to celebrate the season in a warm and inviting setting, that features activities for all.

Lighting of the Christmas Tree and Santa’s welcome party brought the magic of ‘Tropical Christmas’ to life blending traditional holiday festivities added with tropical charm. Pegasus Reef Hotel warmly invites everyone to join in the upcoming seasonal celebrations and create cherished family memories that will last a lifetime.

For more information on future events, contact Pegasus Reef Hotel on 0112049600, follow them on social media at facebook.com/Pegasusreefwattala or www.instagram.com/pegasusreef_wattala and visit their website at www.pegasusreefhotel.com.

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Life style

Tis the season to sparkle and shine

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This festive season, step into a world of allure at Taj Samudra Colombo, where the spirit of Christmas is brought to life with joy, celebration, and heartwarming experiences said a press release.In the words of Kris Kringle from A Miracle on 34th Street, “Christmas isn’t just a day; it’s a frame of mind.” At Taj Samudra, we embrace this philosophy with a delightful array of offerings designed to spread joy and festive cheer to our guests throughout the season said the release.

From gourmet hampers to festive family dinners, the Christmas carvery market, and the iconic Christmas goodies hut, our kitchen team has created a magical atmosphere for guests to enjoy, share, and celebrate this season of giving.

Luxury Seasonal Hampers and Wine

This Christmas, Taj Samudra offers the ultimate luxury gift experience with customized seasonal hampers. Choose from a selection of premium wines, Champagne, sparkling wines, and exclusive beverages, along with Christmas cakes, puddings, festival chocolates, cheese, seasonal cookies, and more. Curated to perfection, these hampers are the ideal way to indulge your loved ones with festive joy.

Christmas Carvery Counter

Indulge in the flavors of the season at our Christmas Carvery Counter, featuring a homemade charcuterie station brimming with delicious offerings. Enjoy lamb salami, beef salami, smoked lamb, honey ham, chicken cold cut, smoked seer, chicken liver pate and a variety of other delectable treats, perfect for gathering and sharing with friends and family.

Christmas goodies hut at the lobby

Visit the delightful Christmas goodies hut in our lobby, a stunning display of handpicked seasonal treats created by our award-winning chefs. The Goodies Hut, open daily from 10:00 am to 9.00 pm, offers an array of beautifully decorated seasonal goodies and carefully selected gift items—ideal for gifting or enjoying yourself.

Christmas eve celebrations

On the eve of Christmas, join us for a traditional Christmas eve dinner buffet at Ports of Call, where festive delicacies, live action stations, and mouthwatering desserts await. Santa will make a special appearance to delight the young and the young-at-heart. Additionally, enjoy a festive à la carte lunch and dinner at Golden Dragon, Navratna, and YUMI, our stylish Japanese resto-bar.

Christmas Day Festivities

Celebrate Christmas Day with a traditional festive lunch at Ports of Call, featuring all-time favorites such as succulent turkey and a wide selection of Christmas specialties. Our Executive Chef Sajesh Nair and his kitchen brigade will craft the perfect Christmas spread to satisfy every craving.

The said experience an unforgettable musical evening with The Traveleer Sound Duo from Budapest

The release said The lattice lobby lounge for an unforgettable musical experience with The Traveler Sound Duo from Budapest, Hungary. Known for their captivating performances, this talented duo brings a diverse repertoire that spans pop, rock, jazz, and more, offering something for every music lover. Catch them live every Tuesday to Sunday from 7:00 pm to 10:30 pm and enjoy their soulful melodies and dynamic sound in the heart of our vibrant atmosphere. They will also be performing during our renowned Sunday Brunch at Ports of Call, adding the perfect soundtrack to your delightful dining experience.

Unwind and Celebrate at YUMI Japanese Resto Bar and Poolside – Daily Happy Hour from 3:00 pm to 7:00 pm

This holiday season, experience the magic of Christmas at Taj Samudra Colombo, where every corner of the hotel radiates the joy and warmth of the festive season.

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Fashion

Hot Red looks for Christmas

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Christmas is here and we are eager to begin the celebrations. Everything about December is breathtaking and spectacular, with the rapid shift in the weather and the increasing camaraderie. The cherry on top is the excitement of the New Year itself! The joyous month of the New Year and Christmas is filled with delicious delicacies, elegant decorations, lovely attire, and joyful vibes everywhere. Dressing up for Christmas in warm and fashionable red outfits is something we all love. However, if you are still confused about your Christmas attire, don’t worry, we are here to rescue you. When it comes to fashion and style, no one can do it better than our Bollywood queens. Here are some red-hot looks from our fav Bollywood divas to inspire your Christmas outfits.

Kiara Advani is a true fashionista who can pull off any look. While co-ord sets are among the season’s hottest fashions. In a red-coordinated ensemble, Kiara is offering fashion advice to everyone. Her ensemble is the ultimate Christmas attire since it perfectly combines sexiness and elegance. She is wearing a bustier crop top and a high-rise skirt that accentuate her physique. Bronze bangles and earrings completed Kiara Advani’s outfit as accessories. With this attire, you’ll definitely steal the show.

Huma’s red formal outfit serves as the ideal Christmas dress inspiration for you if you are not a fan of fancy attire and prefer a sleek and refined look. Whether it’s a casual gathering or a formal function, pantsuits look great on any occasion. In addition to being fashionable, it will also keep you warm. She looks great with a full-sleeved crimson jacket with a wide horizontal white stripe at the bust and straight-fit ankle leggings. For the best appearance, pair it with stud earrings and minimal makeup. Sara is a diva and she is slaying fashion goals in her little red dress with white frills.

If you wish to grab all the attention at the Christmas party then take cues from Sara and choose a red hot bodycon thigh-high slit little dress. Pair it up with a matching red jacket for the glam look and you will be ready to rock the Christmas party.

Among all the divas, Rakul Preet Singh is one of the most fashionable. The actress always dresses well, whether it’s in a gorgeous gown, party attire, or just something that’s too ethnic. Her red corset-style dress is stunning and a must-have for your Christmas wardrobe. It has an off-the-shoulder design, full sleeves, and a fitting nature. To get the glam look, wear it with pointed shoes and diamond drop earrings.

Talking about fashion and style and not mentioning Deepika Padukone is not fair. The queen of Bollywood looks amazing no matter what she wears. If you are tired of wearing dresses and gowns and want to try something different, her vibrant red power suit that exudes boss-woman energy is the ideal outfit inspiration. Her quirky bralette, which had a crisscross neckline, was polished off with a layer of preppy flair thanks to the oversized blazer’s design.

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