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How Indian Perfumers Capture the Smell of Rain

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Grasse-fragrant city

In Kannauj , perfumers have been making monsoon- infused mitti attar for centuries

BY ZINARA RATHNAYAKE

THE ALLURING, MUSKY FRAGRANCE OF marigolds floats from a Hindu shrine, as a group of men laugh over ginger-infused milk teas served in clay cups called kulhads. In a nearby perfume distillery, a man turns his head towards the laughter as he crushes a batch of discarded kulhads. Here in Kannauj, a town in the north Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, generations of perfumers have used kulhads and other clay materials to capture an enticing scent known as mitti attar.

“It’s the smell of the baked, parched earth when the first rains arrive after a long drought,” says Rajat Mehrotra, co-owner of the family-run Meena Perfumery. Perfumers like Mehrotra, who runs the company with his brother, have been bottling the enigmatic fragrance for centuries.

At his office, some 500 feet away from Meena’s tin-roofed distillery, Mehothra carefully pours the thick mitti attar oil into a glass bottle. “You cannot get mitti attar anywhere else,” he says, resting his eyes on each precious drop—0.26 gallons sell for about 180,000 Indian rupees, around $2,178.

Attars, also spelled ittar, are scented oils made from natural ingredients. The scent profiles in attars vary widely, from fragrances derived from flowers such as Damsak roses and jasmine to heavy, warm scents made from agarwood. Mitti means “earth,” and mitti attar loosely translates to the smell of rain-soaked earth. The fragrance is made only here in Kannauj using a special, centuries-old technique.

A worker carefully maintains the flames beneath the aromatic-filled copper vats, using dried cow dung to increase the heat or water to cool the flames

Despite the scent’s long local history, little is known about mitti attar’s origins, says Giti Datt, a boutique perfume house owner and an anthropologist at the Australian National University who studies attar. Datt says nobody knows when attars were first made or why Kannauj is the epicenter. It’s believed that attar distillation is similar to a distillation method found in the Indus Valley Civilization between 3300 BC to 1300 BC. “If that’s true, the process has survived the fall of civilizations and empires and conquerors,” says Datt.

Ancient Indus people used aromatic waters and plant extracts to create different scents used in medicine and religious rituals; later Vedic Age people continued these practices, wrote historian Jyoti Marwah in the paper, Attars: The Fading Aromatic Cultures of India. The Sanskrit epic Mahabharata—compiled by the end of the 3rd century—also mentions the use of perfume in royal courts. This indigenous Indian perfume practice later mingled with fragrance traditions of early Muslims who arrived in the subcontinent, says Datt. “So we ended up with a very unique, rich combination of Indo-Islamic perfume culture.”

This early 19th-century gouache painting shows a Muslim perfume seller (right) with his wife (left)

In the 19th century, the British colonized India and wiped out many indigenous art forms. “So we are trying to figure out what that meant for attar,” says Datt, who hasn’t found any Kannauj perfumery with pre-British origins. Mehrotra family’s business can only trace its roots to the 20th century. Although there’s little evidence, it’s possible that the British wanted to make attar into a commodity and set up the Kannauj perfume houses, says Datt.

Despite these murky origins, today mitti attar is well-known throughout the Indian subcontinent. Sacred Hindu scriptures such as the Bhagavad Gita reference the earth’s aroma after rainfall. “One can assume that it could be part of the inspiration for why people started bottling this unique smell,” says Datt.

Back at the factory, Mehrotra watches as a distiller collects kiln-baked clay discs bought from a local potter and other discarded clay materials, such as kulhads. The perfumer then dumps the clay materials (some 600 pounds of the stuff) into a large copper vat called a deg and pours in some water before closing it.

The distiller then takes a small, long-necked copper vessel, called a bhapka, that’s filled with sandalwood oil—the base of all attars. The bhapka’s opening is fixed to an angled bamboo pipe, which is in turn connected to the clay-filled deg. Once the set-up is complete, the distiller seals any opening with wet multani mitti, a type of clay often used as a skin cleanser. “Now, it’s naturally air-tight,” Mehrotra says, smiling.

Using a mix of wood and sun-dried cow dung, the distiller then lights up a small, carefully-controlled fire beneath the deg. For about seven hours, the clay and water-filled deg simmers over the flames. Mehrotra watches as the distiller splashes water onto the blaze, “because he knew the heat was too much.” If the flames go down, the distiller will add more cow dung to keep the fire hot enough.

When the clay boils inside the heated deg, an aromatic steam builds up and travels through the bamboo pipe and into the oil-filled bhapka. The sandalwood oil inside the bhapka then slowly absorbs the clay-essence of the vapour.

To make different scents, perfume distillers fill large copper vats with aromatics. When making mitti attar, they fill the vats with some 600 pounds of clay.

At the end of the day, the distillers separate the water from the sandalwood oil through a small opening. The entire process repeats for at least ten days until the thick oil is saturated with the heady fragrance of baked clay that mimics the smell of earth after monsoon showers. “You won’t get any smell in one day. It takes at least four or five days to start getting the aroma,” Mehrotra explains.

Once finished, perfumers store the mitti attar in camel-skin flasks, which helps excess water to evaporate and preserves the fragrance. “Attar is like liquor,” Mehrotra laughs. “It ages like fine wine. The older it becomes, the [more] mature and expensive it gets.”

Mehrotra has visitors and buyers from many countries, from Grasse, France, the “perfume capital of the world,” to New Delhi and Mumbai. “People from Grasse come here to see how we make mitti attar. They’ve tried [to make] it but they can’t get the right essence,” he says, showing his WhatsApp chats with French perfumers. Some of Mehrotra’s other buyers mix synthetic materials with attar to create new, unique scents of their own. “Attar is the base. They can’t make those perfumes without it. So anyone who wants natural perfume oil has to come here,” he says.

Distillers in New Delhi once made their own attars to use in paan, an after-meal mouth freshener in India, says Datt. But over the years, paan has fallen in popularity. “So a lot of those distillers stopped and moved into other businesses,” she says.

Despite these industry shifts, Datt says that attar continues to endure and evolve. “I don’t think it’s a dying industry, but certainly a changing one,” she says. “Certain types of markets—like paan—[are] maybe no longer there, but there are new, up-and-coming perfume houses in India that use attar, and we are seeing an increasingly growing switch towards natural oils across the world.”

Mehrotra says there’s more demand for attar than ever before. “If you use chemical perfumes, it’s not good for your body,” he says, “but attar is natural. You can even eat it!” It seems as long as people continue to savor the scent of monsoon rains on dry earth, mitti attar isn’t going anywhere.



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Bold new vision for Sri Lankan’s tourism

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Deputy Tourism Minister Professor Ruwan Ranasinghe

Sri Lanka is rising on the world’s travel radar – a jewel of the sun, drenched beaches, misty tea estates, and hidden waterfalls. Although Thailand dazzles with scale neon lights, bustling party islands and luxury resorts designed to impress, Sri Lanka offers something different, intimacy, authenticity and a luxury that doesn’t shout, it seduces.

As global travel surges and destinations vie for attention, the Deputy Minister of Tourism for Sri Lanka, Professor Ruwan Ranasinghe with deep roots in tourism studies, speaks about elevating Sri Lanka beyond its beautifully raw landscapes into a world class destination that embraces sustainability, technology and community empowerment. We spoke to him and asked what’s next for Sri Lanka and how the island envisions its tourism renaissance over the next few years.

(Q) How do you foresee the tourism strategy direction for the next five years?

(A) Sri Lanka’s future tourism strategy is firmly anchored in sustainable and inclusive tourism. The focus is on balancing growth with responsibility: protecting natural and cultural assets while ensuring that communities across the island benefit directly. Diversification into wellness, eco-tourism, heritage, adventure, and rural experiences will be guided by evidence-based planning and inclusivity.

(Q) The key priorities for post pandemic recovery?

(A) Rebuilding trust with clear safety standards and transparent communication.

Inclusive growth by empowering small entrepreneurs and rural communities.

Sustainable practices in site management, energy use, and conservation.

Diversified demand targeting wellness, eco-travel, and long-stay visitors.

Digital transformation to modernize marketing and expand reach.

(Q) With Tourism booming in Thailand and Maldives, what is Sri Lanka’s position in the tourism landscape?

(A) Sri Lanka’s edge lies in offering a compact, diverse, and authentic experience— heritage, wildlife, tea, beaches, spa and wellness—all within short travel times. By positioning itself as a sustainable and inclusive destination, Sri Lanka appeals to travellers who value responsible tourism and meaningful cultural engagement, setting it apart from regional competitors.

(Q) What are your plans for sustainable and responsible growth for tourism?

(A) Sustainability is non-negotiable. Policies include carrying-capacity management, eco-certification, renewable energy incentives, and climate adaptation in coastal and hill-country zones. Inclusivity ensures that local communities share in tourism’s benefits, reinforcing resilience and equity.

(Q) How do we promote ecotourism, protect wildlife and marine ecosystems?

(A) Eco-tourism is being advanced through responsible visitor management, conservation partnerships, and community guardianship. Wildlife parks, marine ecosystems, and coastal zones are protected with stricter codes of conduct, while local communities are empowered as custodians and beneficiaries.

(Q) How can Sri Lanka showcase its position as a tourist destination?

(A) Sri Lanka presents itself as a sustainable, inclusive, and authentic destination. Live craft, cuisine, Ayurveda, and cultural showcases highlight the island’s unique identity, while digital tools ensure global buyers can connect directly with local providers.

(Q) How do we support small tourism entrepreneurs and rural communities?

(A) Inclusive tourism means empowering SMEs and rural communities with finance, skills, and market access. Homestays, village experiences, and community-based tourism routes are promoted to ensure equitable growth and authentic visitor experiences.

(Q) How do you predict the outlook for Sri Lanka’s tourism by 2030?

(A) By 2030, Sri Lanka envisions a tourism industry that is globally recognized for sustainability and inclusivity. Success will be measured not only in arrivals and revenue, but in conservation outcomes, community empowerment, and equitable regional development.

(Q) How will the role of technology and digital marketing help the tourist sector?

(A) Digital platforms and data insights will modernize Sri Lanka’s tourism, ensuring inclusive access for SMEs and smarter targeting of global markets. Technology supports transparency, efficiency, and sustainability, making tourism more resilient and competitive.

(Q) The impact of recent adverse weather and national disaster on tourism?

(A) Sri Lanka faced severe weather and a national disaster in the past months which inevitably disrupted parts of the tourism industry. Some destinations experienced temporary closures, and travel plans were affected. However, the government has acted swiftly: through the national budget and special allocations, resources are being directed to restore infrastructure, support affected communities, and stabilize the tourism sector.

Importantly, the industry’s resilience is evident. Stakeholders across government, private sector, and communities worked together with peaceful and strong dedication to minimize the damage. Recovery measures include targeted promotions to reassure international markets, rebuilding trust in Sri Lanka as a safe destination, and accelerating necessary upgrades.

This collective response demonstrates that Sri Lanka’s tourism is not only recovering, but doing so in a way that is sustainable, inclusive, and future-focused. The adversity has reinforced our commitment to building a sector that can withstand challenges while continuing to deliver authentic, safe, and memorable experiences for visitors.

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Spectrum of elegance

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The Prism story

Tiesh is a luxury Sri Lankan jewellery house known for its high-end handcrafted pieces that combine contemporary design with traditional craftsmanship.

Recently Tiesh unveiled a fresh vision for contemporary luxury called the Prism Collection.

The Prism Collection is a jewellery line launched by Tiesh that draws its inspiration from the way light refracts and splits into rich, vibrant colours when passing through a prism.

The idea behind this collection is to capture the spectrum of light and translate it into wearable art -jewellery that highlights brilliance, colour and dynamic form.

This is an era where jewellery is more than mere ornamentation – where every piece tells a story. Launched to great acclaim at the brand’s elegant Colombo showroom, this collection is a radiant celebration of light, colour and refined artistry – a body of work that doesn’t just adorn but transforms.

Renowned for its dedication to excellence, Tiesh continues to uphold its legacy of producing jewellery that epitomises luxury, elegance and meticulous craftsmanship. Each Prism creation is thoughtfully designed and expertly crafted using the finest precious stones and the skill of master local artisans, reflecting the brand’s unwavering commitment to quality and detail.

Launched as a festive yet fashion-forward collection, Prism presents a curated selection of jewellery that aligns seamlessly with today’s modern aesthetic. Available in yellow gold, rose gold and white gold; the Prism Collection features an extensive range of designs, including rings, earrings, pendants, necklaces, bracelets, bangles and chains. Each piece is crafted to highlight colour, balance and wearability, appealing to the modern, trend-conscious jewellery lover.

With a proud legacy spanning almost three decades Staying true to this ethos, the Prism Collection places

Sri Lankan sapphires in the spotlight, celebrating their natural colours, textures and rarity. Speaking of the collection, Tiesh Co-Director Ayesh de Fonseka stated, “Prism was created in keeping with the times, contemporary yet timeless. In a time when the nation looks towards renewal, this Collection emerges as a symbol of hope and positive transformation. Reflecting light, colour and clarity, the collection embodies a sense of resilience and betterment. As proud Sri Lankans, we wanted

this collection to showcase the exceptional beauty of our local sapphires alongside other precious stones. These are statement pieces designed for modern lifestyles.”

The collection also embraces customisation, a signature element of the Tiesh experience. Clients are invited to select their preferred gemstones and personalise designs, resulting in truly one-of-a-kind creations that reflect individual style and expression.

With global gold prices reaching historic highs, fine jewellery has inevitably become heavier on the wallet Yet for discerning clients, the conversation is no longer about grams alone

Here customers can adjust stone size, setting style and medal choice to suit their budget. At Tiesh, you’ll notice another surprise – the after-care service such as polishing and maintenance.

The gold at Tiesh remains genuine and hallmarked. In collections such as the Prism line, gemstones and design architecture do most of the talking, while gold becomes the elegant framework rather than the bulk of the piece. In their collections the gemstones carry much of the visual richness. Instead of purchasing a heavy block of gold, the client invests in design, craftsmanship and beauty. So, when gold prices rise globally our jewellery doesn’t escalate at the same pace because gold is not the sole component defining the piece Ayesh pointed out

We create jewellery meant to live with the heavier, not just sit in a vault. At its heart, Tiesh remains more than a jewellery house; it is a family legacy shared by vision, trust and affinity with craftsmanship. And within every shimmering facet of Prism lies that story: a family craft containing to shine, generation after generation.

The Prism collection is now available at the Tiesh showrooms R A de Mel Mawatha Colombo 3.

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Shabana Azmi in conversation with Ashok Ferrey

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Cinema, courage and conversation:

Renowned Indian actress Shabana Azmi brought candour, conviction and a lifetime of cinematic wisdom to the stage recently, in conversation with Sri Lankan author Ashok Ferrey at the HSBC Ceylon Literary and Arts Festival recently at Cinnamon Lakeside Colombo.

In a wide-ranging discussion that traversed five decades of cinema, feminism, censorship and cross-border politics, Azmi reflected on a career spanning over 140 films — dismissing the debate over whether the figure stands at 140 or 160 with characteristic wit. “One hundred and forty is good enough,” she quipped, setting the tone for an evening that blended humour with hard truths.

Ferrey opened the conversation with Ankur, the 1974 classic directed by Shyam Benegal, which marked Azmi’s debut and helped pioneer India’s parallel cinema movement. Azmi credited her formative years at the Film and Television Institute of India for shaping her craft, emphasising that acting is both talent and technique.

“Training polishes the diamond,” she said, rejecting the notion that acting can be mastered in a matter of months. Exposure to international cinema — from Japanese to French and Swedish films — deeply influenced her aesthetic choices, she noted, adding that her upbringing in a household steeped in theatre and poetry further shaped her artistic sensibilities.

Azmi spoke passionately about the delicate balance between emotion and technical precision required of an actor.

 “You are in the moment, but you are also watching yourself,” she observed, describing the psychological demands of the profession. “Civilised behaviour expects you to control emotion. Acting demands the opposite.”

The discussion moved to Arth (1982), directed by Mahesh Bhatt, a landmark film in which Azmi portrayed a woman who refuses to reconcile with an unfaithful husband. The decision to let her character walk away — radical at the time — drew scepticism from distributors who doubted Indian audiences would accept such defiance.

“They said it wouldn’t run a single day,” Azmi recalled. Instead, it became both critically acclaimed and commercially successful, resonating deeply with women across India. She described how women began approaching her not as a star but in solidarity, seeking guidance.

“That’s when I realised I have a voice,” she said, marking the beginning of her active involvement in the women’s movement.

Azmi was unequivocal in her stance on patriarchy, describing it as deeply entrenched in South Asian society. While acknowledging that conversations have begun, she warned that social conditioning — including women’s acceptance of domestic violence — remains troubling.

The conversation turned to Fire (1996), directed by Deepa Mehta, a film that sparked controversy for its portrayal of a same-sex relationship between two sisters-in-law. Azmi admitted she took time to consider the role, anticipating backlash.

Encouraged by her husband, lyricist and writer Javed Akhtar, Azmi chose to proceed. The film was initially screened without incident before political groups vandalised theatres in protest. Yet she remains proud of her decision.

“If you can feel empathy for these two women, you can extend that empathy to others — another nation, race, religion or sexuality,” she said, underscoring her belief that art creates a climate of sensitivity where change becomes possible.

On ageing in cinema, Azmi expressed optimism. Unlike earlier decades when actresses were relegated to peripheral roles after 30, today’s industry offers space for senior actors.

 She credited contemporaries such as Amitabh Bachchan — whose sustained presence in leading character roles has reshaped industry norms — for broadening opportunities.

The session concluded with reflections on cross-border tensions, prompted by a question about an India–Pakistan cricket match taking place concurrently.

Azmi offered a nuanced perspective, suggesting that while cricket fuels adrenaline, cultural collaborations — particularly film co-productions — could serve as stronger bridges between nations.

“People don’t have a problem with each other. Politics does,” she remarked, advocating for artistic exchange as a means of fostering understanding.

Throughout the evening, Azmi’s words echoed her lifelong belief: that cinema is not merely entertainment but a powerful vehicle for social transformation.

By Ifham Nizam

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