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How Indian Perfumers Capture the Smell of Rain

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Grasse-fragrant city

In Kannauj , perfumers have been making monsoon- infused mitti attar for centuries

BY ZINARA RATHNAYAKE

THE ALLURING, MUSKY FRAGRANCE OF marigolds floats from a Hindu shrine, as a group of men laugh over ginger-infused milk teas served in clay cups called kulhads. In a nearby perfume distillery, a man turns his head towards the laughter as he crushes a batch of discarded kulhads. Here in Kannauj, a town in the north Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, generations of perfumers have used kulhads and other clay materials to capture an enticing scent known as mitti attar.

“It’s the smell of the baked, parched earth when the first rains arrive after a long drought,” says Rajat Mehrotra, co-owner of the family-run Meena Perfumery. Perfumers like Mehrotra, who runs the company with his brother, have been bottling the enigmatic fragrance for centuries.

At his office, some 500 feet away from Meena’s tin-roofed distillery, Mehothra carefully pours the thick mitti attar oil into a glass bottle. “You cannot get mitti attar anywhere else,” he says, resting his eyes on each precious drop—0.26 gallons sell for about 180,000 Indian rupees, around $2,178.

Attars, also spelled ittar, are scented oils made from natural ingredients. The scent profiles in attars vary widely, from fragrances derived from flowers such as Damsak roses and jasmine to heavy, warm scents made from agarwood. Mitti means “earth,” and mitti attar loosely translates to the smell of rain-soaked earth. The fragrance is made only here in Kannauj using a special, centuries-old technique.

A worker carefully maintains the flames beneath the aromatic-filled copper vats, using dried cow dung to increase the heat or water to cool the flames

Despite the scent’s long local history, little is known about mitti attar’s origins, says Giti Datt, a boutique perfume house owner and an anthropologist at the Australian National University who studies attar. Datt says nobody knows when attars were first made or why Kannauj is the epicenter. It’s believed that attar distillation is similar to a distillation method found in the Indus Valley Civilization between 3300 BC to 1300 BC. “If that’s true, the process has survived the fall of civilizations and empires and conquerors,” says Datt.

Ancient Indus people used aromatic waters and plant extracts to create different scents used in medicine and religious rituals; later Vedic Age people continued these practices, wrote historian Jyoti Marwah in the paper, Attars: The Fading Aromatic Cultures of India. The Sanskrit epic Mahabharata—compiled by the end of the 3rd century—also mentions the use of perfume in royal courts. This indigenous Indian perfume practice later mingled with fragrance traditions of early Muslims who arrived in the subcontinent, says Datt. “So we ended up with a very unique, rich combination of Indo-Islamic perfume culture.”

This early 19th-century gouache painting shows a Muslim perfume seller (right) with his wife (left)

In the 19th century, the British colonized India and wiped out many indigenous art forms. “So we are trying to figure out what that meant for attar,” says Datt, who hasn’t found any Kannauj perfumery with pre-British origins. Mehrotra family’s business can only trace its roots to the 20th century. Although there’s little evidence, it’s possible that the British wanted to make attar into a commodity and set up the Kannauj perfume houses, says Datt.

Despite these murky origins, today mitti attar is well-known throughout the Indian subcontinent. Sacred Hindu scriptures such as the Bhagavad Gita reference the earth’s aroma after rainfall. “One can assume that it could be part of the inspiration for why people started bottling this unique smell,” says Datt.

Back at the factory, Mehrotra watches as a distiller collects kiln-baked clay discs bought from a local potter and other discarded clay materials, such as kulhads. The perfumer then dumps the clay materials (some 600 pounds of the stuff) into a large copper vat called a deg and pours in some water before closing it.

The distiller then takes a small, long-necked copper vessel, called a bhapka, that’s filled with sandalwood oil—the base of all attars. The bhapka’s opening is fixed to an angled bamboo pipe, which is in turn connected to the clay-filled deg. Once the set-up is complete, the distiller seals any opening with wet multani mitti, a type of clay often used as a skin cleanser. “Now, it’s naturally air-tight,” Mehrotra says, smiling.

Using a mix of wood and sun-dried cow dung, the distiller then lights up a small, carefully-controlled fire beneath the deg. For about seven hours, the clay and water-filled deg simmers over the flames. Mehrotra watches as the distiller splashes water onto the blaze, “because he knew the heat was too much.” If the flames go down, the distiller will add more cow dung to keep the fire hot enough.

When the clay boils inside the heated deg, an aromatic steam builds up and travels through the bamboo pipe and into the oil-filled bhapka. The sandalwood oil inside the bhapka then slowly absorbs the clay-essence of the vapour.

To make different scents, perfume distillers fill large copper vats with aromatics. When making mitti attar, they fill the vats with some 600 pounds of clay.

At the end of the day, the distillers separate the water from the sandalwood oil through a small opening. The entire process repeats for at least ten days until the thick oil is saturated with the heady fragrance of baked clay that mimics the smell of earth after monsoon showers. “You won’t get any smell in one day. It takes at least four or five days to start getting the aroma,” Mehrotra explains.

Once finished, perfumers store the mitti attar in camel-skin flasks, which helps excess water to evaporate and preserves the fragrance. “Attar is like liquor,” Mehrotra laughs. “It ages like fine wine. The older it becomes, the [more] mature and expensive it gets.”

Mehrotra has visitors and buyers from many countries, from Grasse, France, the “perfume capital of the world,” to New Delhi and Mumbai. “People from Grasse come here to see how we make mitti attar. They’ve tried [to make] it but they can’t get the right essence,” he says, showing his WhatsApp chats with French perfumers. Some of Mehrotra’s other buyers mix synthetic materials with attar to create new, unique scents of their own. “Attar is the base. They can’t make those perfumes without it. So anyone who wants natural perfume oil has to come here,” he says.

Distillers in New Delhi once made their own attars to use in paan, an after-meal mouth freshener in India, says Datt. But over the years, paan has fallen in popularity. “So a lot of those distillers stopped and moved into other businesses,” she says.

Despite these industry shifts, Datt says that attar continues to endure and evolve. “I don’t think it’s a dying industry, but certainly a changing one,” she says. “Certain types of markets—like paan—[are] maybe no longer there, but there are new, up-and-coming perfume houses in India that use attar, and we are seeing an increasingly growing switch towards natural oils across the world.”

Mehrotra says there’s more demand for attar than ever before. “If you use chemical perfumes, it’s not good for your body,” he says, “but attar is natural. You can even eat it!” It seems as long as people continue to savor the scent of monsoon rains on dry earth, mitti attar isn’t going anywhere.



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From culture to empowerment: Indonesia’s vision for Sri Lanka

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Ambassador draped in a vibrant Sri Lankan batik skirt

In a world where diplomacy often moves quietly behind closed doors, ambassadors serve as the living bridge between nations, culture and peoples.

The Indonesian Ambassador to Sri Lanka Dewi Gustina Tobing carries this responsibility with a vision that goes behind protocol seeking to deepen ties, foster mutual understanding and showcase the richness of Indonesian heritage to a Sri Lankan audience. From trade and tourism to cultural exchange and the role of woman in society, the Ambassador embodies the naunced, multifaceted relationship between two nations with shared histories and aspirations, In this exclusive interview, we explore perspectives that span politics, culture and social development and gain a glimpse into the mindset of a diplomat whose mission is about connection as it is about representation.

(Q) How would you describe the current state of relations between Indonesia and Sri Lanka and what excites you most about its future?

(A) Indonesia and Sri Lanka today enjoy warm, stable, and cooperative relations, rooted in shared history, non-aligned foreign policy traditions, and a common identity as Indian Ocean nations. Politically, the relationship is cordial and pragmatic, with regular diplomatic engagement and mutual support in multilateral forums such as the United Nations, the Non-Aligned Movement, the Indian Ocean Rim Association (IORA), and historically within the Colombo Plan framework. Neither country sees the other as a strategic rival; instead, they approach the relationship with goodwill and respect for sovereignty.

Economically, ties are positive but still under-realized. Trade has been growing gradually, particularly in areas such as textiles, rubber, coconut oil, spices, and pharmaceuticals. There is also cooperation in maritime affairs, fisheries, disaster management, and education, reflecting shared development priorities as archipelagic and coastal states. Through the Colombo Plan, both countries have benefited from and contributed to technical cooperation, capacity building, and human resource development, strengthening institutional and educational linkages across South and Southeast Asia.

Culturally, the relationship is enriched by deep historical links—from ancient Buddhist connections and Indian Ocean trade routes to modern people-to-people exchanges. Educational scholarships and professional training programmes under the Colombo Plan further reinforce these soft-power ties, giving the relationship a natural resilience beyond day-to-day politics.

What excites me most about the future of Indonesia–Sri Lanka relations is the untapped strategic potential of Indian Ocean cooperation. Both countries are well positioned to work together on:

• Maritime security and blue economy initiatives

• Port development and logistics connectivity

• Renewable energy and climate resilience

• Tourism, cultural exchange, and education (including expanded Colombo Plan–style exchanges)

• South–Southeast Asia economic linkages

As global attention increasingly shifts toward the Indo-Pacific and the Indian Ocean, Indonesia and Sri Lanka have a real opportunity to elevate their partnership from friendly to truly strategic—not through military alignment, but through trade, sustainability, human capital development, and inclusive regional leadership. The continued relevance of the Colombo Plan’s cooperative spirit adds an important historical foundation to that future-oriented partnership.

(Q) Indonesia and Sri Lanka share deep maritime and Buddhist histories. How can these be translated into modern diplomatic partnerships ?

(A) Indonesia and Sri Lanka share deep maritime and Buddhist histories that can be translated into modern diplomatic partnerships by:

• Strengthening maritime cooperation, including port connectivity, blue economy initiatives, Indian Ocean security dialogue, and enhanced fisheries cooperation—such as sustainable fishery management, combating illegal, unreported and unregulated (IUU) fishing, aquaculture development, and joint research on marine resources

• Promoting cultural and religious diplomacy, especially through Buddhist heritage exchanges, education, and tourism

• Expanding people-to-people ties, such as academic collaboration, monk exchanges, cultural programs, and technical exchanges in marine and coastal livelihoods

• Deepening multilateral cooperation, particularly within the Indian Ocean Rim Association and the United Nations

By turning shared history into practical cooperation—including stronger collaboration in fisheries and marine sustainability—both countries can build a forward-looking, resilient, and mutually beneficial diplomatic partnership rooted in their shared identity as Indian Ocean nations.

(Q) What are your priorities during your tenure as Indonesia’s envoy to Sri Lanka?

(A) During my tenure as Indonesian’s envoy to Sri Lanka, my priorities would be:

Strengthening Bilateral Relations

Deepen political and diplomatic ties through regular high-level engagements and close coordination between our governments, based on mutual respect and shared regional interests.

Enhancing Economic and Trade Cooperation

Promote two-way trade, investment, and tourism by identifying new opportunities, supporting business partnerships, and encouraging collaboration in sectors such as manufacturing, agriculture, maritime industries, and the digital economy.

Promoting People-to-People and Cultural Exchanges

Foster closer connections between Indonesians and Sri Lankans through education, cultural diplomacy, tourism, and cooperation among youth, academics, and civil society.

Cooperation in Regional and Multilateral Forums

Strengthen collaboration within ASEAN–South Asia frameworks, the Indian Ocean Rim Association (IORA), and other multilateral platforms to address shared challenges such as maritime security, climate change, and sustainable development.

Consular Protection and Citizen Services

Ensure the welfare, safety, and rights of Indonesian citizens in Sri Lanka while improving consular services and outreach.

Promoting Peace, Stability, and Sustainable Development

Support dialogue, inclusivity, and cooperation that contribute to regional stability and sustainable economic growth, drawing on Indonesia’s own experiences in democracy and development.

These priorities would guide my efforts to build a strong, forward-looking partnership between Indonesia and Sri Lanka.

(Q) As a woman leading Indonesia’s diplomatic mission, what unique perspectives do you bring to diplomacy?

(A) As a woman leading Indonesia’s diplomatic mission, I bring an inclusive and empathetic approach to diplomacy that values dialogue, collaboration, and mutual respect. I believe effective diplomacy benefits from listening carefully to diverse perspectives and building consensus through understanding and trust.

I also bring a strong commitment to promoting gender equality and women’s empowerment, both within the diplomatic mission and in our broader cooperation with Sri Lanka. By encouraging the participation of women and youth in economic, social, and peace-building initiatives, diplomacy becomes more representative and sustainable.

Most importantly, I bring professionalism, resilience, and Indonesia’s values of tolerance and cooperation, demonstrating that leadership in diplomacy is defined by integrity, capability, and dedication rather than gender.

(Q) How does Indonesia promote women’s participation and leadership on the global stage?

(A) Indonesia promotes women’s participation and leadership on the global stage through a combination of national policies, international advocacy, and practical cooperation.

At the national level, Indonesia has strengthened legal and institutional frameworks to advance gender equality, including policies that support women’s leadership in politics, the civil service, diplomacy, and the economy. Women increasingly serve as ministers, ambassadors, peacekeepers, and senior officials, reflecting Indonesia’s commitment to inclusive leadership.

At the international level, Indonesia actively advocates for the Women, Peace, and Security (WPS) agenda in multilateral forums such as the United Nations, ASEAN, and the G20. Indonesia supports the meaningful participation of women in peace processes, conflict prevention, and post-conflict reconstruction, and contributes female peacekeepers and mediators to international missions.

Indonesia also promotes women’s economic empowerment globally by supporting women entrepreneurs, MSMEs, and digital inclusion initiatives through South–South and triangular cooperation, particularly with developing countries.

Through diplomacy, development cooperation, and example, Indonesia demonstrates that empowering women is essential to sustainable peace, economic growth, and effective global governance.

(Q) Indonesia culture from batik and cuisine and cinema has a powerful global appeal. How import is a culture as a diplomatic tool?

(A) Culture is a very important diplomatic tool because it builds understanding and trust in ways that formal diplomacy alone cannot. Through culture—such as batik, cuisine, cinema, music, and traditional arts—Indonesia shares its values of diversity, tolerance, and creativity with the world in a way that is accessible and engaging.

Cultural diplomacy helps people connect at a human level. When people experience Indonesian culture, they gain a deeper appreciation of Indonesia’s history, identity, and pluralistic society. This strengthens people-to-people ties, reduces misunderstandings, and creates a positive foundation for political, economic, and social cooperation.

An increasingly important driver of this cultural diplomacy is the role of the millennial and Gen Z generations. Young Indonesians actively promote batik, cuisine, and cinema through digital platforms, social media campaigns, creative start-ups, and international collaborations. By modernizing traditional batik designs, creating contemporary culinary brands, and producing globally relevant films, they make Indonesian culture more accessible to international audiences. Through influencers, content creators, student exchanges, film festivals, and culinary pop-ups abroad, millennials act as informal cultural ambassadors who bridge local heritage with global trends.

Culture also supports broader diplomatic objectives. It promotes tourism, encourages creative-industry partnerships, and opens opportunities for education and cultural exchange. Indonesian cinema and cuisine, for example, showcase contemporary stories and innovation while preserving tradition, making Indonesia relatable and relevant globally. Digital-native generations amplify this impact by leveraging technology, cross-cultural networks, and entrepreneurial creativity to expand Indonesia’s cultural reach.

In essence, culture is a form of soft power. It allows Indonesia to project a positive image, foster mutual respect, and build long-term relationships. With millennials and young creatives at the forefront—championing batik as sustainable fashion, cuisine as global culinary diplomacy, and cinema as a platform for storytelling—Indonesia’s cultural diplomacy becomes more dynamic, participatory, and influential in shaping global perceptions.

(Q) What drew you to a career in diplomacy and who inspired you along the way?

(A) I was drawn to a career in diplomacy by a strong desire to serve my country while building bridges between nations. From an early stage, I was fascinated by how dialogue, understanding, and cooperation could resolve differences and create opportunities for mutual benefit. Diplomacy offered a path to represent Indonesia’s values, interests, and diversity on the global stage while contributing to peace and development.

Along the way, I was inspired by Indonesia’s senior diplomats and national leaders who demonstrated integrity, professionalism, and a deep commitment to multilateralism and international cooperation. I was also inspired by women leaders—both in Indonesia and internationally—who showed that perseverance, competence, and principled leadership can overcome barriers and create meaningful change.

Equally important were mentors and colleagues who emphasized the importance of listening, cultural sensitivity, and empathy in diplomacy. Their guidance reinforced my belief that effective diplomacy is not only about negotiation, but also about building trust and lasting relationships between people and nations.

(Q) Are there places people or moments in Sri Lanka that have left a lasting impression on you?

(A) Yes, Sri Lanka has left a strong and lasting impression on me through its places, people, and moments. The warmth and generosity of the Sri Lankan people stand out most clearly. In my interactions, I have consistently felt a genuine openness and hospitality that make engagement both meaningful and memorable.

Sri Lanka’s rich cultural and spiritual heritage is also deeply impressive. Visiting historic and sacred sites—such as ancient temples, cultural cities, and places of worship—reflects the country’s deep sense of history, resilience, and diversity. These places convey values of tolerance and coexistence that resonate strongly with Indonesia’s own multicultural identity.

Equally memorable are moments of everyday interaction: conversations with community leaders, students, artists, and businesspeople who are optimistic about the future and committed to rebuilding and progress. These encounters highlight Sri Lanka’s strength, dignity, and potential, and they reinforce my commitment to further strengthening the friendship between Indonesia and Sri Lanka.

(Q) How do you balance the demands of high level diplomacy with personal well being?

(A) Balancing the demands of high-level diplomacy with personal well-being requires deliberate focus, discipline, and self-awareness. Diplomacy often involves long hours, complex negotiations, and high-stakes decision-making, so maintaining mental, emotional, and physical health is essential to perform effectively.

I prioritize time management and set boundaries to ensure that I have moments for rest, reflection, and personal interests, even amidst a busy schedule. Practices such as regular exercise, reading, and staying connected with family and friends help me recharge and maintain perspective.

Equally important is cultivating a strong support system within the mission, where teamwork, delegation, and mutual trust allow responsibilities to be shared effectively. Mindfulness and self-reflection also help me approach challenges calmly and make decisions with clarity.

Ultimately, maintaining personal well-being is not just about self-care—it is integral to being a resilient, attentive, and effective diplomat, capable of representing Indonesia with focus, energy, and dedication.

(Q) What message would you like to share with Sri Lankan about Indonesia and its people?

(A) I would like to share with the people of Sri Lanka that Indonesia is a nation rich in diversity, culture, and natural beauty, and that its people are warm, resilient, and welcoming. Indonesians value harmony, tolerance, and cooperation, which are reflected in our traditions, arts, and everyday life.

Indonesia is committed to building strong friendships and partnerships with Sri Lanka, grounded in mutual respect and shared interests. We welcome cultural, educational, and economic exchanges, and we hope that more Sri Lankans will experience the richness of Indonesian culture, cuisine, and landscapes first hand.

Above all, I want the people of Sri Lanka to know that Indonesia sees them as close partners and friends. Together, our nations can grow, collaborate, and create opportunities for prosperity, peace, and mutual understanding in the region and beyond.

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Ranjith Fernando celebrates cricketing journey with Hob Nails to Spikes

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The crowd says it all – Ranjith Fernando is a legend on and off the field

The launch of the book “Hob Nails to Spikes” by Ranjith Fernand, a name synonymous with passion, discipline and an enduring love for the game was held at the grand Ballroom of the Galle Face Hotel, drawing a distinguished gathering of cricket enthusiasts, friends and other well-known invitees.

It was a celebration of Ranjith’s remarkable journey in the world of sport, with the book reflecting on memorable experiences, insights and milestones from his long association with cricket. A former national cricketer, and famous TV commentator, he has spent decades nurturing and narrating the story of Sri Lanka cricket. Guests listened to tributes and reflections on his contribution to the game, making the launch a warm and memorable occasion.

Standing firmly was his wife, Ramani Fernando, whose unwavering support has been constant throughout his journey. Known for her own success and elegance, Ramani shared the proud moment as friends and wellwishers gathered to applaud both the book and the inspiring story behind it.

The book reflects Fernando’s experience in cricket – from the early days of the sport to the modern era – sharing ancedotes, insights and stories from a lifetime devoted to the game. The morning was filled with tributes from those who have known him through his playing days, coaching career and his familiar voice in the commentary box.

His articulate commentary and deep knowledge of the game have made him a trusted voice for cricket fans over the years.

By Zanita Careem

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Indiya enters a new chapter

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Indiya, the signature Indian restaurant at Cinnamon Life at City of Dreams, enters a new chapter with Chef Mukesh Joshi at the helm. Situated on the spectacular Level 23, the restaurant now offers a dining experience that is as elevated as its views, combining Indian culinary traditions with Sri Lankan influences in a contemporary, family-style format.

Under Chef Mukesh’s leadership, the menu takes guests on a journey across India’s regions. Fragrant rice dishes such as Awadhi Mutton Biryani and Zaffrani Chicken Dum Biryani anchor the experience, while comforting classics like Dal Makhani and Chana Masala bring depth and familiarity to the table. Alongside these are thoughtfully crafted vegetarian preparations, including Kurkuri Bhindi, Hyderabadi Bagara Baingan, and the indulgent Shahi Subz Korma.

The experience unfolds through layers of texture and flavour. Crisp starters such as Sev Papdi Chaat, a generous Pakora Platter, and warming soups set the tone, followed by tandoor-led favourites like Hariyali Tandoori Gobi, Rajma Galouti, and non-vegetarian selections including Jhinga Koliwada, Rawa Fried Surmai, and a classic non-vegetarian Kebab Platter. Freshly baked breads, from Chilli Cheese Naan and flaky Paratha to comforting Aloo Kulcha, arrive ready to be shared.

Seafood and meat preparations showcase Chef Mukesh’s confident spice work and regional storytelling, with dishes such as Jhinga Hara Pyaz, Macchi Malai Curry, Railway Chicken Curry, Kozhi Milagu Fry, Mewari Kheema, and Mutton Bhuna forming the heart of the menu. For those seeking something distinctive, the chef’s special selections, including Tandoori Kaala Jhinga, Pahadi Tandoori Kukkad, Nandu Curry, and the standout Lagoon Jhinga Biryani, offer bold, expressive flavours designed to take centre stage.

The meal concludes on a nostalgic, indulgent note with classic desserts such as Mishti Doi and Kulfi Falooda, bringing warmth and familiarity to the final moments of the dining experience.

Indiya’s new approach moves away from traditional fine dining, focusing instead on bringing people together around the table. Whether it’s a family gathering, a dinner with friends, or a special occasion, the restaurant is designed for connection, conversation, and memorable moments, where every dish reflects care, authenticity, and thoughtful execution.

Chef Mukesh’s career spans India and the UAE, from The Westin and St. Regis Mumbai to Dubai’s India Bistro and Art of Dum, where he led kitchens, designed menus, and executed landmark events. Known for balancing classic flavours with contemporary presentation, Mukesh’s hands-on leadership and commitment to excellence shape every aspect of Indiya, from the ingredients and techniques to the teamwork that brings the dishes to life.

With this new chapter, Indiya offers a dining experience that is vibrant, elevated, and immersive, celebrating Indian cuisine in a way that feels authentic, approachable, and perfectly suited to the city-sized destination of Cinnamon Life at City of Dreams.

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