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From Violent Colombo to Peaceful Baghdad

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At my departmental farewell party at Le Galadari Meridien Hotel, Colombo in 1989 May

1.PASSIONS OF A GLOBAL HOTELIER

Dr. Chandana (Chandi) Jayawardena DPhil
President – Chandi J. Associates Inc. Consulting, Canada
Founder & Administrator – Global Hospitality Forum
chandij@sympatico.ca

Independent Sri Lanka has faced several disruptions over many decades. Despite short-lived ceasefires and the government’s attempts to encourage extremists to enter peaceful elections, by the late 1980s the government of Sri Lanka was fighting two wars – the LTTE civil war and the second wave of JVP insurgency. Stakeholders of tourism and hospitality industries continued to be resilient. However, by the late 1980s, the situation had deteriorated significantly, casting a shadow of uncertainty over the country’s future. My birth place Colombo had become a violent city with frequent deadly bomb explosions and killings.

In 1989, amidst the turmoil, I found myself at a crossroads in my career journey. As the Director of Food & Beverage at Le Meridien in Colombo, I harboured ambitions beyond the confines of familiarity. Guided by the belief that true growth lies beyond comfort zones, I sought opportunities on the global stage. That was uncommon for a hotelier from a developing country at that time.

Under the mentorship of Jean-Pierre Kaspar, the former General Manager of Le Meridien in Colombo, I envisioned a trajectory that transcended geographical boundaries. With his guidance, I embarked on a path of professional development, honing my skills in diverse settings from Singapore to Paris and London, laying the groundwork for my aspirations.

However, as I shared my ambitions with the new General Manager of Le Galadari Meridien Hotel, Paul Finnegan, I encountered unforeseen obstacles. Despite my eagerness to explore opportunities abroad, the prevailing circumstances constrained my options. Undeterred by setbacks, I resolved to forge ahead in pursuit of my global aspirations, bidding farewell to Le Meridien and Sri Lanka in search of new avenues aligned with my ambitious global career.

Then General Manager of Hotel Lanka Oberoi, Kawal Nain introduced me to Madan Mishra, Vice President for Oberoi in Iraq, and Regional Vice President & General Manager of Hotel Babylon Oberoi in Baghdad. Nain gave me a glowing recommendation. After the formal interview, Mishra invited me to an informal discussion at the London Grill at Hotel Lanka Oberoi, when he hosted my wife and me to dinner.

“As the operator of the three largest and best five-star hotels in Iraq, Oberoi has a key role to play in training hospitality workers and developing tourism in Baghdad and Mosul. Welcome to my top team” said Mr. Mishra as he shook my hand after I signed a two-year expatriate contract with Oberoi.

My boss at Le Meridien was surprised with my quick decision. Paul Finnegan told me, “Chandi, you have decided to leave a global five-star hotel company owned by Air France to join a small regional hotel chain run by an Indian company. That does not make any sense to me, unless you have an exceptionally good reason!” I rested my case by showing him my contract. I told him, “What Oberoi has offered me is five times my current salary at Le Meridien. If you match it and offer me an expatriate contract in another country, I will re-join Le Meridien.” Well, it eventually happened eight years later in 1997, when I opened Le Meridien in Jamaica as its General Manager.

As at that time in Iraq they did not like to use the term ‘Director’, my title would be ‘Food & Beverage Manager’. “You know that over the last 17 years, Oberoi sent two dozens of promising Sri Lankan hoteliers for universally recognized two-year management program at the Oberoi School of Hotel Management in New Delhi. None of them reached the level of Food & Beverage Manager at Hotel Lanka Oberoi.

You would be the first Sri Lankan to hold this very senior position at an Oberoi hotel” Kawal Nain said, and then Madan Mishra explained, “Chandi, you would be our third ranking leader at Babylon Oberoi after me and the Resident Manager. You would be overall in charge of ten food and beverage outlets and banqueting, kitchens, and stewarding. Your team will include 160 employees from 10 countries. Seven of the managers reporting to you would be graduates of the Oberoi School of Hotel Management,” Madan Mishra said.

Mishra then added, “Out of 52 Sri Lankans I have recruited for Babylon Oberoi, you are one of two persons not from Hotel Lanka Oberoi. My friend, Mr. Nain thinks very highly of you, and I respect his judgement.” The other non-Oberoi person in the team was the IT Manager, who was married to Shirani Perera, the Oberoi-trained Executive Housekeeper chosen for Hotel Babylon Oberoi. Prior to our departure to Iraq, I was asked by my new boss to lead the team of 52 from different departments during our travels and until reaching the Hotel Babylon Oberoi in Baghdad.

After the Iran–Iraq War ended in August 1988, with the killing of 500,000 people over a period of eight years, there was optimism about the future of Iraq. It was the longest conventional war of the 20th century, with USA and the West backing Iraq. The year 1989 was important for Iraq, which focused on re-building the country targeting stability, the economy, human capital, and tourism. The country desperately needed external expertise to place those aspirations on a fast track.

In May 1989, I embarked on a journey that would mark a pivotal chapter in my career. Departing from Colombo bound for Bombay (later renamed Mumbai), I found myself among 50 former employees from Hotel Lanka Oberoi. As the sole senior divisional head amidst this group of new recruits for Iraq, I naturally assumed a leadership mantle for the duration of our travels. My prior experience in India, gleaned during a two-week stint seven years earlier as a member of Sri Lanka’s national Judo team. This lent me a deeper familiarity with the country than my companions.

Following a night’s stay, graciously arranged by Oberoi Hotels in Bombay, we proceeded onward with a second flight to Baghdad. Despite the palpable anxiety shared by all 52 of us at the prospect of working in a war-torn region with a vastly diverse culture, we were happy with the high salaries offered to us. It swiftly became apparent to me that acclimatizing myself to three distinct cultures —Iraqi, Indian, and Oberoi— would be paramount. I resolved to make this adaptation my foremost priority and adjust my communication and leadership styles accordingly.

In the lead-up to our arrival in Bombay and during our brief sojourn in that vibrant metropolis, I embarked on a reflective exercise, drafting a concise yet strategic roadmap for my professional career goals. My key ambition was to ascend to the position of General Manager within an internationally renowned hotel chain in the coming years.

In addition, drawing upon my experience as a senior lecturer and my education in ‘Training Methodology’ on an ILO/UNDP Fellowship in Europe, I harboured aspirations of eventually returning to academia to obtain a globally recognized Ph.D. This ambition had already taken tangible form in the submission of a doctoral thesis proposal to the University of Surrey, in England where I had completed my master’s degree in international Hotel Management five years before.

Rounding out my handwritten plan before our descent into Iraq was a vision of eventually establishing an international consultancy firm specializing in hospitality management — an aspiration built upon the satisfaction derived from previous ad hoc consulting engagements.

The lands that now comprise Iraq have a rich historical tapestry, rooted in the ancient region of Mesopotamia, meaning ‘The land between the rivers’. This fertile territory, cradled by the Tigris and Euphrates rivers, nurtured a few of humanity’s earliest civilizations, including the Sumerians, Akkadians, Babylonians, and Assyrians.

Situated within the Fertile Crescent in the Middle East and Mediterranean — an arc of land of 11 modern-day nations spanning from Egypt to Iraq and Iran — this region played a pivotal role in the emergence of settled agricultural communities, dating back to the early ninth millennium BCE. Over millennia, Mesopotamia became a nexus of imperial power, experiencing successive dominions under Persian, Greek, and Roman rulership before becoming an integral part of the Islamic world after the seventh century.

In the aftermath of World War I, the modern nation-state of Iraq emerged from the former Ottoman provinces of Baghdad, Basra, and Mosul, under British colonial administration. Despite formal independence in 1932, Iraq remained under British influence during a disorderly era marked by monarchical rule and subsequent political upheavals.

The influence of the Arab nationalist and socialist Baath Party in 1968 heralded a period of relative stability, fuelled by substantial oil reserves, which enabled ambitious development initiatives and the creation of a formidable armed force. However, this stability in the country was eclipsed by the authoritarian reign of Saddam Hussein, who steered Iraq into disastrous conflicts, including the Iran-Iraq War (1980–1988), the Persian Gulf War (1990–1991), and the Iraq War (2003).

Geopolitically, Iraq is bordered by Iran to the east, Kuwait and Saudi Arabia to the south, Jordan and Syria to the west, and Türkiye, to the north. Despite its strategic location, Iraq possesses only a small coastline along the northern Persian Gulf, offering limited maritime access compared to its regional counterparts.

Iraq’s population has surged, surpassing 47 million — an exponential increase from its 1989 estimate of 17 million, akin to the population of Sri Lanka at that time. Since 1980, amidst three decades marred by conflict, there was a solitary year of peace in 1989 —a year that afforded me the opportunity to experience and engage with the complexities of Iraq first-hand.

Baghdad

Baghdad

Baghdad, a city steeped in vibrant history, was established in 762 AD along the caravan route bridging Asia and Europe. Its strategic position on the banks of the Tigris River propelled it to prominence as a cultural, commercial, and intellectual epicentre of the Islamic world. In 1921, Baghdad became the capital of Iraq.

Despite the tumult of wars and disruptions, Baghdad remained a beacon of learning and commerce, drawing both local inhabitants and international visitors to the country. Its rich tapestry of history finds expression in myriad attractions, from museums and shrines to mosques and bustling souks, contrasted with modern-day amenities such as upscale boutiques and vibrant dining establishments. Upon our arrival at Baghdad International Airport, the prominent presence of large portraits of Saddam Hussein told their own story.

Hotel Babylon Oberoi

Nestled in one of Baghdad’s most coveted neighborhood, adjacent to the verdant expanse of the green zone and overlooking the famed Tigris River, Hotel Babylon Oberoi epitomized five-star luxury. Boasting 300 lavishly decorated rooms and suites, the hotel provided guests with unparalleled convenience and comfort in the heart of down-town Baghdad. Vibrant souks and iconic landmarks were mere minutes away, ensuring an enriching stay for discerning travellers seeking leisure and exploration.

The hotel’s distinctive pyramid architecture and expansive gardens paid homage to Baghdad’s Babylonian legacy, while its culinary offerings stregnthened its status as a premier dining destination. With ten food and beverage outlets, including six dining venues, the hotel provided an enormous gastronomic experience. From the allure of a bustling casino, and a lively nightclub, to the tranquillity of a rooftop bar and a chic lobby lounge, the hotel catered to every indulgence.

For corporate gatherings, weddings, and events, the hotel boasted an elegant ballroom and banquet rooms capable of accommodating up to 600 guests, ensuring a seamless blend of sophistication and functionality. Meanwhile, the outdoor Olympic-size pool, fitness centre, and spa facilities epitomized luxury and wellness, offering guests the pinnacle of relaxation and rejuvenation.

As preparations unfolded for my family’s imminent arrival, I found solace in the warm embrace of Iraqi and Indian management colleagues. With full-board family accommodation secured in a spacious two-bedroom suite overlooking the Tigris River, I embarked on my role as an expatriate manager with a strong sense of purpose.

While my primary focus remained on laying the groundwork for my burgeoning global career, I willingly assumed additional responsibilities at the request of the General Manager. Tasked with overseeing the welfare of 52 Sri Lankan employees, I embraced this role with enthusiasm, cognizant of the importance of fostering a supportive and inclusive work environment. As I settled into my new job, I reflected with satisfaction: “Here I am at age 35, finally as an expatriate manager, living in the luxurious confines of a five-star hotel in a foreign land.”

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