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Food, Society and the Polos Ambula

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by ACB Pethiyagoda

Anna Trapido, anthropologist and chef, author of ‘Hunger and Freedom: The story of Nelson Mandela’ calls the book a `gastro political biography weaving in the stories of men and women who struggled for freedom alongside Mandela’. She states further ‘you can always understand the society that produced the food by looking at the food’.

True, the eating habits of people are greatly influenced by history, geography, religious beliefs, foreign invasions, level of prosperity etc. of any society. Even the presentation of food as a meal and how it is taken to the mouth is influenced by one or more of the above factors among other considerations.

From time immemorial the high born have had their food in special dining areas off expensive metal or delicate porcelain placed on decorated tables and helped by lesser mortals waiting on them while the less privileged ate where the food was cooked off rough earthen vessels, large leaves etc. Europeans eat with the aid of forks, spoons and knives as their food consisting of flesh of various animals and birds, vegetables and breads need to be cut and sliced for the pieces to be picked up.

We and the Indians who eat rice and curry, use the fingers of the right hand mostly, to mix the curries with the grainy rice and form portions of convenient sizes to be placed in the mouth. Larger numbers of Asians whose staple food is also rice use chopsticks to pick up pieces of each accompaniment, very often from common dishes, and follow these with small lumps of glutinous rice, which make easier handling than grainy rice, from bowls brought close to the mouth.

The use of chopsticks, especially those of disposable bamboo, are not only hygienic and convenient but delicate and elegant allowing the small portions to the chewed at a leisurely pace and uninterrupted conversation if in company or even silent contemplation. Eating with the fingers is no less elegant as long as whole lengths of fingers are not used and the palm as well to slurp the residual slurry of grain and gravy!

Although our food habits have been influenced to some extent by Arabs, Moors, Portuguese, Dutch, Indians and the English, the basic rice and curry meal in an average Sinhalese home today does not appear to have changed very much from what we know was eaten by the early Sinhalese. The outside influence is mostly in the way of sweet meats, festive season fare of the different ethnic groups, eaten between normal rice meals or on special occasions when rice gives way to other substitutes like English and North Indian food.

The cuisine of the English starts and ends with shepherd’s pie, roast beef and Yorkshire pudding and bland deserts while North Indian fare consists of a wide range of delectable dishes. Except for a few of our highly westernized folk who took to English food habits, the people of the Hill Country who were the last to come under foreign influence continued with rice and curry consisting mostly of a variety of vegetables with little or no meat as the majority of the population was Buddhist.

The style of cooking fish, mutton and chicken in Jaffna is inimitable barring Hotel Renuka in Kollupitiya and possibly some seedy joints in Hospital Street and Pettah. In the Southern coastal areas fish is cooked in dozens of ways but in an average middle class home in the rest of the county a rice meal consists of one or two vegetables, meat or dried or fresh fish and the oft derided Mysore dhal, all cooked in coconut milk, and sometimes as an after thought Pol Sambol or Papadam. These are quite ordinary as regards taste or method of preparation. But five or six decades ago in a well to do rural household in the Upcountry a typical lunch or dinner consisted of brown country rice with five or six curries of vegetable (grown with organic fertilizers only) from the home garden and without fail jak cooked in one of various ways or bread fruit in season with any yams such as batala, rata ala, innala etc. and never manioc for some unknown reason. Jak and breadfruit in excess of daily needs in season were cut to convenient sizes and sun dried for off season use.

Meat, if at all mutton (never beef, pork or chicken before the advent of broilers) and fish were not eaten daily due to their unavailability outside towns but dried seer fish or sprats fried with big onions dusted with powdered dried red chillies was common. The mallung consisted of one such as tampala,

mukunuwenna, sarana, alakola, miyanakola and unlike now kang kung was not popular. Angunakola mallung with a slightly bitter taste, accompanied by raw red onions was a treat to those with a cultivated taste for it.

Uncooked vegetables were rare except for gotukola sambal with lots of scraped coconut, sliced red onions and plenty of Maldive fish. Sliced raw cucumber in coconut milk with rings of big onions, green chillies and Maldive fish was served only for lunch and like the mallungs never for dinner as these were considered difficult to digest in the few hours before sleep and if ignored bad dreams would be the result!

From this it will be seen that people in the rural areas, even those not so well off, could eat a well balanced variety of food all produced locally and therefore at an easily afforded cost.

Now and then friends from the maritime provinces have said in jest the Kandyan’s contribution to society was only that particular dance form.

They conveniently forgot that throughout the last century and perhaps in the future as well the major forex earnings for the entire country’s benefit came from the tea plantations in this area. Be that as it may in equal fun these friends were reminded of the caviar from the outlying areas of Kandy — the polos ambula!

My sisters have often related that making the curry in grandmother’s exclusive domain, the kitchen, with rows of dara lipas of varying sizes was a sort of ‘special operation’, with two or three women tasked to carry out each step of the process as directed particularly when guests were expected, an almsgiving or some such occasion was due in the next day or two.

Several partly matured jak fruits only from selected trees and of the exact degree of desired maturity were said to have been peeled, cut into about 20 pieces a fruit, washed and ‘drowned’ in coconut milk in a huge earthen pot used only to make this curry. Various condiments dried and ground on the many decades old mirisgala were added and cooked over a slow wood fire for about three or four hours until the curry was ready to simmer over a paddy husk fire when a few handfuls of one to two inch long slices of coconut kernel were said to have been added. The curry had no free flowing gravy, neither was it an entirely dry curry.

The cooked pieces were a rare pink in colour, breaking easily at the touch with the subtle flavours of a mixture of all the spices, none predominating another, from a Kandyan forest garden, a truly Sinhala dish turned out by those with years of experience and with the correct touch.

Even the few who have some idea of this process will now, due to circumstances, use a pressure cooker or a stainless steel vessel over an electric or gas fire with the result, sadly nowhere near the real McCoy.

(From the memoirs of the writer first published in the Sunday Island in 2008)



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Polarizing rhetoric greets America on its epochal anniversary

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President Donald Trump addresses the public on the occasion of the US celebrating the 250th anniversary of the US Declaration of Independence from Britain.(BBC)

Democratic and progressive opinion in the US and the world over would likely have been further jolted by the divisive rhetoric blared forth by US President Donald Trump on no less an occasion than the 250th anniversary of the US Declaration of Independence from Britain. The world has been placed on notice that what it would be having in the main is aggravated polarization on multiple fronts during what’s left of the Trump tenure.

If the world was expecting positive moves by the Trump administration to bridge divisions, heal rifts and usher in a more harmonious international political order, this is very unlikely to be. Instead, in all probability we would be left with a far more ‘dangerous place to live in’.

Some of the more thought-provoking recent ‘takes’ from President Trump are : ‘A generation after we fought and won the cold war against the menace of communism, there is now a resurgence of the communist menace in our land, including from newcomers to our country who embrace ideas totally opposed to our way of life and our great success.’ ‘We will send them (immigrants) quickly away, and we will continue to build our country bigger and better than ever before.’ ‘We are going to give our country its identity back.’ ‘You can be loyal to Karl Marx or you can be loyal to America. You can be a communist or you can be a patriot. You cannot be both.’

Accordingly, what the world would have in increasing measure going forward are stepped-up attempts to consolidate a white supremacist administration in the US accompanied by a suppression of ethnic, religious and cultural minorities at home along with renewed attempts to spread and consolidate US hegemonism world wide.

The latter project would mainly translate into US military interventions abroad of the Venezuelan type and a persistence if not a resurgence of identity based conflicts globally. Violent reactions internationally to what are seen as attempts by the US to bring recalcitrant sections in particularly the South under white supremacist control will provide the basis for the steadfast presence and spiking of identity politics globally.

Moreover, the path has been paved for stepped-up ethnic, religious and cultural disharmony within the US. A united state is far from possible, given this backdrop. Put simply, it would be a question of steeper political polarization at home and abroad.

The persistent, widespread support for the hard line Islamic regime in Iran locally and globally should serve as an eye-opener for the political decision-makers of the US. Huge crowds at the funerals of Iran’s political leaders could very well be state-orchestrated but they are a pointer to the fact that political Islam is far from on the decline. To the extent to which this is so, the phenomenon could be a hurdle in the path of a stridently expansionist US.

Looking back, it was the consolidation of the Islamic regime in Iran in the late seventies of the last century that, besides proving a major challenge to the unfettered global power expansion of the US and its Western allies, provided the motive force as it were for the proliferation of Islam-based identity politics in particularly the South. This continues to be so.

Going forward, the US would need to figure out how best it could manage the persistent presence of Islamic fundamentalism world wide, and for that matter other forms of identity politics, without drastically losing its global power and influence.

The recent successful challenge by Iran to the US’ efforts to exercise its diktat in West Asia should prove an ‘eye-opener’. In these confrontations both sides were bloodied but Iran proved that it could successfully take on the US militarily. The inference for the US ought to be that projecting its military might in the Middle East in a no-holds-barred fashion would not prove easy.

Arising from the foregoing a foremost policy challenge for the US would be to curb Iranian military power while avoiding another major military confrontation with the Islamic state that would cost the US and the world dearly in particularly economic and material terms. The US would have no choice but to persist with the often flagging West Asian peace effort and to render it fully workable.

Ukraine presents the US with another formidable challenge. As is known, Ukraine is proving no easy ‘push-over’ for Russia, but it is badly in need of more sophisticated Western arms, particularly effective air defense systems, to fully neutralize the Russian invasion. What would the US choose to do; go to Ukraine’s assistance fully or opt not to ruffle and antagonize the Putin regime, with which it is on some cordial terms?

A negotiated solution is best in Ukraine and the Trump administration would do well not to lose sight of this ideal but Russia too should see the need for a diplomatic solution if it is to salvage itself from its military stalemate in Ukraine. The US needs to try being a peace mediator in the latter theatre but if the Russian political leadership fails to opt for peace the US would have no choice but to join the rest of NATO and Europe in continuing to arm Ukraine.

The US would need to take the latter course if the ‘world’s mightiest democracy’ is to remain committed to its founding ideals. If President Trump fails to meet this challenge he would prove that he is nothing more than an ‘empty rhetorician’.

However, it should not come as a surprise to the world if Trump chooses not to strongly back the rest of the West on Ukraine. Domestic and foreign policy are closely intertwined. Since the Trump administration is committed to building a white supremacist state at home, democratic development worldwide has been of the least importance to it.

The Trump administration’s strong affinities to white jingoism would increasingly compel it to opt for a policy of international isolationism. As a result Ukraine could prove unimportant for the US going forward.

Consequently, US-Western Europe friction in particular is only likely to intensify in the days ahead. Coupled with the contentious issues growing out of the persistence of identity politics, the Trump administration’s far-sightedness in managing foreign policy issues would be tested to the fullest. Whether the world would have comparative peace or continued blood-letting would depend crucially on such judiciousness.

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Beyond concrete: Sunela Jayewardene urges Sri Lanka to rediscover an ancient wisdom for a planet in peril

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Sunela / Rishan / Spencer

It was more than a lecture on architecture. It was a challenge to rethink civilisation itself.

Standing before a packed audience at Dilmah by Genesis in Maligawatte, internationally acclaimed environmental architect, author and conservationist Sunela Jayewardene delivered a keynote that transcended blueprints, buildings and urban planning.

Instead, she invited her listeners on an intellectual journey into Sri Lanka’s ancient past, arguing that the answers to some of the world’s gravest environmental crises may already exist within the island’s forgotten ecological wisdom.

Her address, titled “Beyond Concrete: Architecture for the Coexistence of Species,” was at once philosophical, historical and deeply practical. It questioned humanity’s obsession with dominating nature and called for a return to a design ethic rooted in respect, restraint and coexistence.

“The road is actually very simple,” Jayewardene said. “We have simply forgotten it.”

That observation became the defining thread of an afternoon that challenged conventional thinking about architecture and development.

According to Jayewardene, modern society has inherited a worldview shaped largely by colonial values that placed human needs above those of every other living organism.

“Our value system was turned on its head,” she observed. “We accepted a Western way of looking at nature without questioning it. Today we can clearly see the consequences. The world is in crisis. Species are in crisis. Our lifestyles are in crisis.”

She was careful not to romanticise the past, nor was she dismissive of modern science. Instead, she argued that Sri Lanka’s pre-colonial civilisation possessed a sophisticated environmental philosophy that modern planners and architects have largely ignored.

For Jayewardene, environmental architecture is not about fashionable sustainability slogans or cosmetic landscaping.

It begins with humility.

It begins by recognising that humans are only one species among millions sharing the same landscape.

“The built environment should not exist in opposition to nature,” she said. “It should become part of nature.”

One of the most captivating moments of her presentation came when she introduced her own research into the island’s ancient sacred geography.

Using digital mapping and satellite imagery, Jayewardene demonstrated the remarkable alignment of Sri Lanka’s four original Saman Devalayas, whose axes converge on Sri Pada, historically known as Samanthakuta.

The extraordinary precision of these alignments, she argued, raises profound questions about the scientific and surveying capabilities of ancient Sri Lankan civilisation.

“What kind of technology enabled them to achieve this?” she asked the audience.

Her purpose was not to offer speculative answers but to challenge deeply ingrained assumptions that ancient societies lacked scientific sophistication.

“We often underestimate what our ancestors knew,” she said. “Yet the evidence around us tells a very different story.”

That forgotten knowledge, she argued, extended well beyond engineering.

It shaped an entire philosophy of living with the landscape rather than imposing human will upon it.

Displaying photographs from archaeological sites including Ritigala, ancient monasteries and rock pavilions hidden within Sri Lanka’s forests, Jayewardene illustrated how builders carved steps around natural boulders, integrated structures into existing rock formations and preserved the contours of the land.

Modern construction, she suggested, would almost certainly have bulldozed those landscapes into submission.

“Our ancestors honoured the land,” she said. “They accepted the landscape instead of trying to conquer it.”

For Jayewardene, that principle remains the foundation of every project she undertakes.

She described environmental architecture as an exercise in listening rather than commanding.

Every site, she explained, possesses its own identity, ecological history and natural rhythm.

The responsibility of the architect is to understand that identity before attempting to intervene.

“The land tells you what it wants to become,” she said.

Throughout the presentation, one word repeatedly surfaced—context.

Without understanding context, she argued, architecture becomes little more than sculpture.

Good design cannot be copied indiscriminately from one country to another or even from one district to another.

Climate differs.

Rainfall differs.

Vegetation differs.

Wildlife differs.

Culture differs.

Even the stories associated with landscapes differ.

All of these, Jayewardene insisted, must shape architecture.

“When I speak about inhabitants, I don’t mean only human beings,” she explained.

“The birds, insects, reptiles, mammals, trees and every living organism already occupying that land must become part of the design equation.”

This broader understanding forms the basis of what she describes as non-human-centred design—an approach that rejects the notion that cities exist exclusively for people.

Instead, landscapes should provide refuge for biodiversity while simultaneously serving human communities.

It is an idea that resonates strongly at a time when rapid urbanisation continues to erode habitats across Sri Lanka.

Jayewardene also challenged prevailing attitudes towards development itself.

Too often, she argued, “development” has become synonymous with replacing natural systems by concrete infrastructure.

She questioned whether flattening hillsides, redirecting streams and clearing vegetation can genuinely be described as progress.

In her view, genuine development should first ask what ecological value already exists before deciding what should be built.

One of the simplest yet most profound examples she offered concerned water.

“I always say it is acceptable to interrupt water,” she remarked. “But never disrupt it.”

That distinction reflects an ecological understanding often absent from conventional engineering.

Natural drainage systems, she warned, perform countless functions that remain invisible until they are damaged.

Floods, soil erosion, biodiversity decline and even changes in local climate frequently follow.

“We disrupt far more than water,” she said. “We disrupt entire ecological relationships.”

Equally significant was her distinction between degraded brownfield sites and relatively untouched greenfield landscapes.

Brownfield sites require ecological restoration, rehabilitation and renewal.

Greenfield sites demand restraint.

Minimal intervention, she argued, is often the highest form of environmental design.

The keynote found an appropriate setting within Dilmah Conservation’s own efforts to restore degraded urban landscapes.

Earlier in the programme, Rishan Sampath of Dilmah Conservation outlined the organisation’s transformation of an abandoned industrial property in Moratuwa into a flourishing urban forest containing over 300 tree species and more than 1,000 individual plants.

Scientific studies conducted within the restored forest have already demonstrated improvements in air quality compared with adjoining urban roads, providing measurable evidence that biodiversity restoration can improve city life.

For Jayewardene, such initiatives represent far more than beautification projects.

They demonstrate that ecological restoration can become a guiding philosophy for future urban planning.

Her address ultimately became a call to rethink humanity’s place within nature.

Architecture, she argued, should no longer celebrate domination over landscapes.

It should celebrate coexistence.

Every building should strengthen biodiversity.

Every development should restore ecological balance.

Every designer should ask not merely how a project serves people, but how it serves life itself.

As the audience left the hall, they carried with them more than architectural ideas.

They carried a challenge

To question inherited assumptions.

To rediscover indigenous ecological wisdom.

And to recognise that Sri Lanka’s greatest contribution to global sustainability may not lie in importing new environmental models, but in rediscovering the timeless principles embedded within its own civilisation.

For Sunela Jayewardene, the future will not be secured by building more impressive skylines.

It will be secured when humanity learns once again to build gently, intelligently and respectfully—allowing architecture to become not an act of conquest, but an expression of coexistence.

By Ifham Nizam

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Colombia’s “back-to-back queen”

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Beyond modelling, Colombia’s Katherine Castaño, who captured the crown at the Top Model of the World 2026, in Egypt, is also a TV host, entrepreneur and social media influencer.

She’s based in Miami, Florida right now — a hub for fashion and influencer work — a city she calls home base, while representing Colombia on the world stage.

Her Miami base gives her access to fashion, entertainment, and business networks, while her title keeps Colombia front and centre in the global modelling conversation.

Off the runway, she says she enjoys singing, playing the piano, and tennis.

Katherine didn’t make the trip to Egypt as a newcomer. She’s built a strong international portfolio before winning the crown.

In fact, her résumé reads like a fashion passport: Colombia Moda, New York Fashion Week, Miami Swim Week, Miami Fashion Week, Nicaragua Diseña, IXEL Moda, and Mercedes-Benz San José.

On June 8, 2026, Katherine Castaño was crowned by outgoing winner Natalia Garizabal Vera, also of Colombia. That gave Colombia a historic back-to-back victory — the first time any country has done it in the competition’s history, and Colombia’s 4th win overall.

As Top Model of the World 2026, Katherine’s reign is centred on elevating her profile as a model, influencer, and entrepreneur.

She’s built a personal brand around beauty, ambition, style, and professionalism, with strong reach across fashion, social media, and business.

As titleholder, she’s now the face of the pageant’s international fashion platform, representing Colombia globally, while based out of Miami.

Ahead of the competition she was clear about the stakes: “This is bigger than me. This is for my country. This is for the story I’m here to write… And I’m not going quietly… we’re going for that back to back.”

As the reigning titleholder, Katherine Castaño’s role extends far beyond the sash. She’s using the platform to grow her brand as a model, influencer, and entrepreneur rooted in “beauty, ambition, style, and professionalism”.

She will also be doing runway shows, photoshoots, brand appearances, and fashion events.

Sri Lanka’s representative at this pageant was NetalieWithanage.

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