Features
COOKING WITH ANTON MOSIMANN
CONFESSIONS OF A GLOBAL GYPSY
By Dr. Chandana (Chandi) Jayawardena DPhil
President – Chandi J. Associates Inc. Consulting, Canada
Founder & Administrator – Global Hospitality Forum
chandij@sympatico.ca
Working for Free

During my work at the Dorchester in Banqueting and Food & Beverage controls departments for over a year, I had never spoken with the celebrity chef of this iconic hotel in England – Anton Mosimann. He left his native Switzerland, when he had been appointed Maître Chef de Cuisines at the Dorchester Hotel in 1975 at the age of 29. Under Anton Mosimann’s leadership, the Dorchester kitchens reached unprecedented levels of gastronomic heights and reputation. Also, the Dorchester’s restaurant achieved a two-star rating in the prestigious Michelin Guide (the first hotel restaurant outside France to do so).
Anton Mosimann was simply a legend and his culinary art had been influenced by his experiences growing up on the family farm and in the restaurants operated by his parents in Switzerland. His diverse gastronomic experiences gained while working in Italy, Canada and Japan, prior to moving to England, also influenced his style. He was fond of Japanese styles of food garnishing. He had commenced publishing books sharing his unique culinary concepts. Mosiman was an inspiration to a generation of young chefs from around the world.
I had read a lot about him and was an admirer of this great chef. Towards the end of my work period at the Dorchester as a Banquet Waiter, I decided to talk with Mosimann for the first time. I gathered up my courage and went to his office to introduce myself. He said, “I have seen you in the banquets for some time. I also know that you came in first in the banquet service training program and were chosen to serve the Queen.”
I told Mosimann, “Before I leave the Dorchester in a few months’ time, I would love to work in your kitchens.” On his advice I met the Personnel Manager of the hotel, who informed me that there was a long line of culinary arts students waiting to get an opportunity to work under Mosimann. She then said, “If you include your name on the list now, you may get an opportunity to work under the chef in about two years’ time!

My career plan then was to work as a Food & Beverage Director of a large hotel and then progress to become the General Manager of a five-star, internationally branded hotel. Having worked as the Executive Chef of two hotels when I was in my early twenties, I was not going to work as an Executive Chef again. However, my gut feeling was that working two months with Mosimann would be a very useful experience for me.
That night, based on what I had read about him and what I had observed during my one year at the Dorchester, I wrote an article about Mosimann titled ‘Cuisine à la Mosimann’. That was the first article I ever wrote. The article was published a few years later in the trade magazine of the Chef’s Guild of Sri Lanka.
I went to see Mosimann again. When I showed my article to him, he said, “You are a good writer. You should become a biographer.” When I repeated my request to work in his kitchens, he was rather annoyed. “Sorry, I can’t help you now. You have to join the line and wait for your turn”, he attempted to conclude our discussion. “Mr. Mosimann, I really cannot wait for two years, as my student visa in the United Kingdom will expire in a few months. Please give me an opportunity to learn under you. I will work for free” I told him. “Free! Why?” when he asked, and offered me a chair in his office, I realized that it was the right time for me to close the sale. Timing is important to convince important people to say “Yes!”
The next day, I commenced working under Anton Mosimann as his Special Apprentice, but without any pay. A few of my close friends felt that I was out of my mind to work for free. My wife wondered how we would be able to pay our rent in London, when I was working for free. I told her, “I am sure that the time I will spend in working free for the most popular chef in England, would be an investment for our future.”
Special Apprenticeship
Quickly I managed to convince Mosimann that our work relationship would be mutually beneficial. He became fond of my hard work and dedication. He was always certain of the outcome of his decisions. Mosimann created a special program for me. I spent a week in each of the six specialized kitchens of the Dorchester. I also learnt many useful things other than cooking from Mosimann during that short period of time. Every morning, I spent two hours with Mosimann. First, I walked in the six kitchens with him, when he shook hands and greeted all 100 persons in his brigade. After that I attended a daily breakfast meeting with his team of Sous Chefs, when he announced special menus and gave directions to his deputies.
I then went to my specialized kitchen of the week. On some days, he gave me interesting, special assignments. Mosimann was a great motivator, delegator, food artist, writer, showman and public relations expert. He was shrewd but was also kind, gentle and friendly. He was unlike most of the other Continental European Executive Chefs leading five-star hotel kitchens and top restaurants in England at that time.Mosimann read people well.

One morning during our rounds, he noticed that a commis cook looked upset and asked, “What’s wrong, John?”. On hearing that John’s wife had cheated on him with his best friend, Mosimann offered to give two weeks full-paid leave to John. When John said that he had used all of his leave and he didn’t have any more paid leave, Mosimann called the Personnel Manager immediately, and approved two weeks special paid leave for John.
John nearly worshipped Mosimann and left quickly. I was most impressed with the Chef’s kindness. I asked Mosimann the reasons for his kind gesture. “John was very emotional and sad. I did not want him in my Kitchens until he solved his personal issues. I am very keen that all of the members of my brigade are in happy moods when they work here. Otherwise, they may make a mistake, which will affect our standards of quality, as well as my reputation!” Mosimann explained.
One morning, Mosimann asked me to coordinate photographs for his new book and help with the arrangements for a media briefing. That day I learnt that food photography was a different ball game! Nice looking, glossy dishes that were photographed well were not edible! When the media briefing commenced with around 20 top British journalists, one English lady asked a trick question, “Chef Mosimann, what is your frank opinion about English food?” Unlike now, in the early 1980s, English food did not have a good international reputation compared to the Continental European food. “English food is the best in the world!” Mosimann stood and announced in his Swiss German accent in the midst of cheers and flashing camara lights.
When Mosimann was asked to justify his statement about English food, he said that, “English food is natural. You do not drown the natural flavours with too much seasoning, wine and long cooking times, like what we often do on the continent. My next book is titled ‘Cuisine Naturelle’. Its main characteristic is that it does not include such ingredients as butter, cream and alcohol. The focus is concentrated even more on the flavour of the individual, fresh ingredients. The dishes are only lightly cooked. In nouvelle cuisine and also cuisine naturelle, the main emphasis is put on the presentation of the dishes.” His second book, Cuisine Naturelle, published in 1985, was an international best-seller.
“Chandi, tomorrow, don’t come to the kitchen in the morning. Meet me at the Billingsgate Fish Market at 5:00 am”, Mosimann directed me. Just after I arrived at this famous fish market, Mosimann, as well as a few journalists and photographers appeared, dressed appropriately for a cool autumn morning. The whole visit was cleverly choreographed.

Chef Mosimann personally buying fresh fish for his ‘Menu Surprise’ concept received much publicity in the British media. Many diners paid high prices to book tables without any idea of the items on that menu. Mosimann decided on the menu based on the fresh ingredients available in the markets on the same day. Every dish was a surprise to the diners, until white-glowed waiters gently lifted the silver dish covers. This concept was not an ideal adventure to a vegetarian!
Having heard that Mosimann had never tasted a Sri Lankan meal, I offered to cook an 11-item Sri Lankan buffet menu for Mosimann and his team of senior chefs, on my last day at the Dorchester kitchens. The General Manager and the Food & Beverage Manager also attended the special lunch in the kitchen. They loved the Sri Lankan meal that I had prepared. They all autographed a copy of Mosimann’s first book which he presented to me. Mosimann also gave me a great reference letter.
Breaking the Glass Ceiling
I gained valuable experience in three departments within the Dorchester between 1983 and 1985. When I went to invite a fellow Ceylon Hotel School (CHS) graduate, Wilfred Weragoda (who was the Food & Beverage Controller of the Dorchester) to the Sri Lankan buffet that I had prepared, Wilfred was pleasantly surprised.
“Chandana, until you came to the Dorchester no one has ever cooked a Sri Lankan meal before today, in that great kitchen. You are also the first Sri Lankan to work in that kitchen. You have broken the glass ceiling!” Wilfred said with a proud smile. Wilfred, six years my senior at CHS, was the first ever Sri Lankan to hold a management position at the Dorchester. “Wilfred, actually you were the one who broke the glass ceiling and you were the person who arranged for me to get into the Dorchester” I thanked Wilfred for his genuine support.
In 1984, apart from doing good work in their motherland, none of the Sri Lankan Chefs were internationally known for culinary arts. Thirty-eight years later, the situation has changed dramatically for chefs of Sri Lankan origin. Today, many Sri Lankans have made names as great culinary masters, celebrity chefs and award-winning executive chefs, pastry chefs and culinary artists. Today, around the world they excel in Australia, Canada, Japan, the Middle East, the United Kingdom, etc.
In 1995, a young Sri Lankan chef left Hotel Taj Samudra in Colombo, to move to England. He managed to join the Dorchester at the lowest level, as a commis in the kitchen. Fifteen years later he re-joined the Dorchester. Sri Lankan, Mario Perera fulfilled his childhood dream by taking on the highly coveted role of the Dorchester’s Executive Chef in 2020.
Return on the Investment
Most of what I learnt from Mosimann in 1984 was useful in my career, particularly when I worked as a Food & Beverage Director in five-star hotels. The real return on the investment of that unpaid apprenticeship happened 10 years later, in London.
In 1994, I was facing the final interview to join Trust House Forte Hotels (THF) as an internationally mobile General Manager. The Vice President who did the final interview said at the end of the interview, “Mr. Jayawardena, you are well qualified, well experienced and very much focused on employee and customer satisfaction. However, I am looking for a person who is more focused on bottom-line profits.”
From that comment, I realized that I would not get hired. THF had spent some money flying me from Colombo to London especially for my interviews, and providing me with complimentary full-board accommodation at the Cumberland Hotel for three days. I was happy to visit my favourite city in the world, although I
felt that was not getting my dream job. I said, “Mr. Giannuzzi, I fully agree with your analysis. Yes, I am more focused on employee and customer satisfaction, but I have also done well in optimizing profits in the previous five hotels that I have managed. I have some testimonials from my previous employers indicating that. Would you like to see those?”

He went through my folder of testimonials quickly without much interest. Mr. Giannuzzi stopped flipping pages when he saw the reference letter given to me by Mosimann. He read it twice and asked me, “How did you get a chance to work as a Special Apprentice under such a great professional?” I told him my story. Mr. Giannuzzi was impressed with my determination, and nodded his head with a smile. I was immediately hired as the General Manager of two THF hotels in South America. Sometimes, one has to follow the gut feeling, irrespective of advice given by well-wishers.
That experience in 1984 at the best British hotel with Chef Anton Mosimann became very useful to me once again in 2012, when I did an additional job for my then Employer – George Brown College. As the Academic Chair of the largest Chef School in Canada, I led a team of 24 Chef Professors and 1,600 Culinary Arts students. My team was impressed that I was trained by one of the greatest Chefs of our time. Thank you, Chef Anton Mosimann!
Features
Trump’s tariffs, AKD’s gazette and Sri Lanka’s diplomatic slumber
“We are rather respectable in Colombo. We go to bed fairly early, and we remain there till morning. “
According to Sri Lanka’s diplomatic folklore, the late S.W. R. D. Bandaranaike uttered these words while explaining the reasons for Sri Lanka’s abstention on the UN resolution condemning the Soviet invasion of Hungary. Apparently, SWRD’s foreign ministry officials were asleep at home when the diplomatic cable seeking instructions was received from New York. In those days, there were no cell phones, Internet, or even fax or telex machines. The diplomatic cables were sent through post offices. Decoding them was a slow and time-consuming process. Thus, the government could not provide appropriate instructions to our mission in New York in time, and the Sri Lankan delegation abstained on that sensitive UN vote.
Sri Lanka’s Absence from Section 301 Consultations
But then, how does one explain Sri Lanka’s absence from the crucial bilateral consultation held in Washington by the Office of the United States Trade Representative (USTR) during March-April on “Forced Labour” under the Section 301 of the US Trade Act of 1974? Didn’t our foreign and trade ministries send appropriate instructions to Washington in time? Even if the instructions from the foreign ministry were transmitted to our embassy in Washington by pigeon carriers, there was enough time for Sri Lanka to participate in those meetings.
In March, the USTR initiated these 301 investigations on 60 trading partners, and invited all of them for confidential consultations. Out of the 60, 46 participated in these consultations. Sri Lanka was not one of them. Other countries that didn’t participate in these consultations included China, Russia, and Venezuela! In addition to that, the Section 301 Committee conducted a public hearing with interested parties on April 28 and 29. Washington-based diplomats, representatives from few trade ministries as well as representatives from many foreign trade associations and chambers participated in these hearings. Sri Lanka was once again conspicuously absent.
As a result, when the USTR published the proposed forced labour tariffs on June 2nd, Sri Lanka ended up with a 12.5% duty. Pakistani and Indonesian diplomats participated in these consultations and took appropriate follow-up measures, and managed to enter the 10% duty category. As even a threat of a modest tariff hike could disrupt supply chains and reduce competitiveness, particularly in an industry such as garments, I discussed this issue on 15 June and underscored the importance of Sri Lanka’s participation at the next hearing, which was scheduled to be held from July 7th .
Awakening from Diplomatic Slumber and AKD’s Gazette
Fortunately, Sri Lanka finally awoke from weeks of diplomatic slumber, and Ambassador Mahinda Samarasinghe participated in the public hearing on 9 July, and promised, “…. · We have agreed to the text in our negotiations with the USTR on forced labour, …. The gazette as we speak is being printed and I’m getting the gazette tomorrow morning, and the gazette will be shared with USTR as I get it“.
As promised, President Anura Kumara Dissanayake issued a gazette on 10 July banning the imports of goods produced by forced labour. These new regulations are very similar to what Pakistan and Indonesia enacted in April, after their consultations with USTR in March. Why couldn’t we do it in April? Why did we wait till the very last minute?
Challenges ahead
“War is too important to be left to generals alone,” is a famous saying attributed to former French Premier Georges Clemenceau. Similarly, monitoring our main markets is too important to be left to diplomats alone. The United States is the largest single-country market for Sri Lanka. Therefore, Sri Lankan trade chambers and associations should become more proactive in these markets and participate in these events. For example, the chairman of the Pakistani apparel exporters association participated in the April hearings. Similarly, representatives from the Indian Agricultural and Processed Food Products Export Development Authority, the Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry, the Confederation of Indian Industry, and Reliance Industries also participated in July hearings. At an event where each speaker is given only five minutes (strictly enforced), having a number of speakers from a country is an advantage. The presence of industry representatives in these kinds of events also help them understand the market dynamics and the future challenges. This is important, particularly because there will be many more challenges with Trump’s tariffs.
With the gazette issued on 10 July, Sri Lanka has imposed a prohibition on the importation of goods produced with forced labour. Now, the challenge will be to effectively enforce the prohibition. And what are the goods produced with forced labour? The USTR list only focuses on aluminum, cotton, electronics, lithium-ion batteries, rice, and tobacco. However, according to the U.S. Department of Labour, the list is much longer. Hence, this list may change continuously during the next two years and tariffs may fluctuate once again.
So, this is definitely not the time to slumber.
(The writer, a retired public servant, can be reached at senadhiragomi@gmail.com)
by Gomi Senadhira ✍️
Features
Tales of Mystery and Suspense 10 Casino for Sale
After the overwhelming grotesquerie of J K Rowling’s latest Cormoran Strike novel (written, I should have noted, as the others were, under the pseudonym Robert Galbraith), I thought I should return to the world of fun, and also a much shorter description since this thriller moves quickly without the layers of detail that Rowling engages in.
I then move to the second comic thriller by Caryl Brahms and S J Simon. This, their second story to feature Vladimir Stroganoff and Adam Quill, was Casino for Sale, as lunatic a romp as the first, though without the emphasis on the ballet that characterized A Bullet in the Ballet.
This one begins with the impresario Stroganoff buying a casino cheap from Baron Sam de Rabinovich, only to find that it was a rundown place, not the grand casino of La Bazouche, a resort on the Frenc+h Riviera, as he had initially thought. The grand one belonged to Lord Buttonhooke, and Stroganoff could not compete, until he thought of bringing the Ballet Stroganoff to the casino – which of course leads to Buttonhooke deciding to have ballet performances in his Casino too.
Stroganoff invites Quill to visit him, which Quill decides to do since he has left Scotland Yard, having come into a legacy. No one believes this, and he has to face questions as to what he did to have been sacked, with sympathy for having been found out.
The day he arrives in La Bazouche there is a murder, of a vitriolic critic called Citrolo, in Stroganoff’s office. He had been going to write a damning review of the opening night of the ballet and Stroganoff, when he realizes Citrolo cannot be swayed, drugs him and dictates the review himself to the papers. He leaves Citrolo sleeping and finds him shot the next morning, whereupon he decides to muddy the waters and leave a suicide note and lots of other murder weapons. So much overkill, as it were, of course ensures that he is arrested.
But the excitable French detective who makes the arrest follows up his suggestion that Buttonhooke was also involved, and so the two casino owners find themselves in cells next door to each other, with the detective Gustave quite happy to provide creature comforts for a fee.
Quill decides he must investigate, and finds Gustave most cooperative, since he has a laid back attitude to work. So it is Quill that finds a notebook which makes it clear Citrolo is an accomplished blackmailer, and that there are lots of possible murderers, including Stroganoff’s croupier, who was crooked, Rabinovich, who was now working for Buttonhooke, a confidence trickster called Kurt Kukumber, whose prospectus for a dud gold mine was found in the office and Prince Alexis Artishok who was engaged in a deal to buy diamonds from the ballerina Dyra Dyrakova.
Stroganoff had been trying to get Dyrakova to dance for him, but having done so previously she had refused. But then to Stroganoff’s chagrin she agreed to dance for Buttonhooke. The clearly crooked Artishok had told Buttonhooke’s mistress Sadie Souse, who was not very bright, that Dyrakova possessed diamonds she was willing to sell cheap, and Sadie was determined to have them.
Quill meanwhile finds out that there was a secret passage to Stroganoff’s office, the obvious solution to what had begun as a locked room mystery, and that this was known by almost everyone apart from Stroganoff himself. And then Rabinovich is murdered, just after Gustave had released his two original suspects, leading him to blame Quill for having insisted on that and thus allowing them to kill again.
Soon afterwards Dyrakova arrives, and the town is full of posters announcing that she will appear in the casinos, elaborate posters for either one, since Stroganoff is determined that she will dance for him, and if she does not come willingly, he has devised a scheme to make her do so unwillingly. So, though Buttonhooke has her taken off to his yacht immediately she arrives at the station, Quill along with Arenskaya gets her into a launch and to Stroganoff’s casino, where she performs to tumultuous applause, not knowing for whom she is dancing.
When Quill asked her about the diamonds, she said she had sold them long ago, and that gave Quill the solution to the mystery. Rabinovich had known about this, and Artishok had killed him to prevent Sadie learning it from him, he had killed Citrolo who had recognized him for an accomplished card sharper, not a Russian prince at all. But before he is arrested, he gets away in a boat, and the police launch that pursues him is on the point of catching him up when it runs out of petrol.
Again, lots of excitement, and entertaining references – Gustave grows marrows – and if not quite as brilliant as its predecessor, Casino was certainly a delightful read.
Features
The challenge of being positive about SAARC
It was a few years back that a former President of Sri Lanka took it on himself to pronounce SAARC ‘dead’. Since then there have been other sections of Sri Lankan opinion that have joined the critics of SAARC and taken the solemn stance that SAARC has indeed died what may be called a natural death.
Their fatalism is understandable. SAARC has failed to meet at heads of government or state level for the past several years to take the SAARC process notably forward. Regional cooperation has more or less been only an appealing idea. No substantive concrete projects have taken off to make the idea a hard reality. ‘Inner paralysis’ seems to be SAARC’s lot. Hence the fatalism in these circles.
However, being one of the worst cash-strapped regions of the world and a teemingly populated one with people virtually left to their devices, what choices do the ‘SAARC Eight’ have other than to try their best to band together and continue with their cooperation efforts, however small they may be?
There is no escaping the mounting debt trap for many of these countries and bankrupt Sri Lanka is a glaring example, but ‘throwing in the towel’ and abandoning themselves entirely to the diktats of the strongest economies and their agencies will prove a ‘living death’ for many countries in the SAARC fold.
The gains may be meagre but giving-up on SAARC cooperation in full would prove self-defeating for the organization and South Asia. Right now, the collective intention ought to be to salvage what the region could from the tenuous cooperative efforts. Moreover, such initiatives could go some distance to generate a degree of goodwill among the Eight and help in sustaining a dialogue process.
Given this backdrop it proved ‘a stich in time’ for the Regional Centre for Strategic Studies (RCSS), Colombo, to recently host the SAARC Secretary General Ambassador Md. Golam Sarwar to a round table discussion on the unifying potential of SAARC and its future possibilities, besides other related issue areas.
Held on June 24th and moderated by RCSS Executive Director and former ambassador Ravinatha Aryasinha, the forum brought together a vibrant, wide ranging audience comprising academicians, diplomats, senior public servants, civil society activists and many others. Following the presentation by Ambassador Golam Sarwar titled, ‘Reigniting SAARC: Achievements, Challenges and the Way Ahead’, a lively Q&A followed.
The above forum could be described as an act of lighting the proverbial ‘candle’ rather than ‘cursing the darkness.’ It surely is a ‘darkness’ that could be seen as daunting considering that the region’s pivotal powers, India and Pakistan, are failing to act in a spirit of accord but are engaged in bitter finger-pointing on a number of questions of vital importance to SAARC.
On the other hand, what is the rest of the region doing to bring the above sides together? It is disappointing that to date the rest of SAARC has failed to launch a major diplomatic drive to bring peace between the feuding regional heavyweights. It needs to act without delay and establish its earnestness and this effort would need to prove SAARC’s staying power in the unfolding months and even years.
In assessing SAARC’s seeming failure local opinion in particular has failed to factor in what could be described as weak leadership. Since Sheikh Mujibur Rahman of Bangladesh, the founding father of SAARC, the region has failed to produce a visionary leader who could advance the SAARC cause with charisma and drive.
Among other reasons, weak leadership accounts considerably for the faltering and stuttering status, as it were, of SAARC. Badly needed are leaders who could go the extra mile, think less of narrow national interests and work diligently towards the collective well being of the region but SAARC’s millions of ordinary people have been made to wait in vain for leaders of such stature. Instead, they have been burdened with politicians who seem to be relishing the apparently moribund state of SAARC.
Looking back, it could be said that it was the dynamic leadership factor that led to the launching of the Non-Aligned Movement and for its sustenance for a few decades. True, it could be seen in some quarters that NAM is no more, but as in the case of SAARC, the former too has been unfortunate to be burdened over the years with politicians who lack the vision and drive to unflaggingly advance the fortunes of the South. NAM and SAARC lack the dynamism and vision of leaders of the stature of Jawaharlal Nehru, for example, to give them the required guidance and intellectual depth.
The reasons are complex for there not being among us currently political leaders with the vision and the steadfast commitment to advance the legitimate interests of the South. However, it could be stated with conviction that the majority of Southern leaders have too easily caved in to the demands of the global North and its financial agencies.
These leaders have failed to see, for instance, that the largely market economy oriented Northern governments would not view with favour a centrist economic model that attaches priority to the interests of the dis-empowered publics of the South. This realization ought to have dawned on the current government in Sri Lanka, for instance, some while ago but it has no choice but to abide by IMF dictates since economic survival at present is unthinkable without the latter’s succour.
Accordingly for SAARC this should be the time for some soul-searching. Priority needs to be attached to ending the feuding between India and Pakistan since at present the material fortunes of the region hinge largely on these regional giants giving peaceful relations among them a try. This is no easy challenge to meet but some daring, visionary diplomacy needs to take hold among the rest of SAARC.
There is some sense in SAARC bringing the peoples of the region together through programs that address their best collective interests. A meeting of minds among SAARC nations could enable SAARC and its agencies to build a region-wide people’s movement for progressive political and economic change that could in turn lead to the region’s political leaders sensitizing themselves more to the neglected needs of their publics.
However, the time is ‘now’ for the initiation of these progressive changes and the voice of SAARC well wishers would need to drown out those of their critics.
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