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A fish that sparked a national obsession

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Bacalhau (salt cod) is a deep part of Portugal’s culinary identity. But the fish is found far from the country’s shores, so how did this love affair come to be and continue today?

On a cold winter’s evening in Portugal, it might come to your table com natas – fresh from the oven and bubbling in cream – layered between fried potato and sliced onion and spiced with nutmeg. Weaving through Lisbon’s steep and cobbled streets, it wouldn’t take long before you found someone serving it as a light and crispy fritter, dusted with a little coarse salt and dished up with a pot of pungent aioli. You could buy it shaped as mouth-sized fried potato dumplings pastéis style, flavoured with parsley and garlic, for a walk along the banks of Porto’s Douro River. You might even come across it as part of a hearty southern bread soup, topped with coriander and a poached egg.

That’s because bacalhau – or salt cod – which sits at the heart of all these dishes, runs deep through Portugal’s culinary identity, with the country consuming 20% of the world’s supply. In fact, so central to Portuguese hearts (and stomachs) is this ingredient, that the saying goes “there are 365 ways to prepare salted cod, one for each day of the year”.

But for a fish that is found only in the icy depths of the North Atlantic Ocean – far from Portugal’s shores – the country’s love affair with salt cod is a puzzling one. How exactly did it end up on Portuguese plates? The answer is wrapped up in more than 500 years of intriguing history.

Take a trip today to most restaurants, markets and cafés across the country and you’ll find salt cod in one form or another. It even plays a starring role at hip Lisbon restaurant Alma, which earned its first Michelin star within nine months of opening and added a second star soon after.

“It’s funny, sometimes Michelin star chefs or high-end cuisine chefs don’t value salted cod because they don’t see it [fitting] within this type of gastronomy,” said Alma executive chef and owner Henrique Sá Pessoa, of the typically humble comfort food. “But I always have and always will have cod on my menus.”

He assures visitors that a salt cod creation will also feature on the menu of his new restaurant, JOIA, which will open in London later this year. But though bacalhau is a traditional and well-explored ingredient for many natives across the country, Pessoa is still finding ways to push Portugal’s love for it into new territory.

Case in point: his “most Instagrammable” creation, Cobblestreet Cod, named for its likeness to the centuries-old streets outside Alma’s front door in the historical Chiado district. It’s a modern twist on an old peasant dish and one of the country’s most beloved salt cod recipes – bacalhau à bras – where typically shredded salt cod, fried matchstick potatoes and onions are all bound together with scrambled egg and garnished with black olives.

“I knew I couldn’t call it bacalhau à bras because the Portuguese are quite traditional, and people sometimes get offended when you play around with classics,” he explained. “I wanted to get inspired by this dish but elevate it presentation-wise, texture-wise and detail-wise into something more delicate and elaborate.”

The outcome is far removed from the version you’d find on family dinner tables. A creamy mixture of salt cod, fried potato, egg and onion arrives at the table hidden under a veil of wafer-thin slices of cod that have been coated in a black olive tapenade to create a cobbled visual. A final surprise comes when you break into the cobbled dome and spilt a confit egg yolk that has been resting in the middle of the salted cod mixture.

“I wanted to dislocate all these elements of the dish and try and make it as perfect as possible. When we launched it in the restaurant, it was an instant success. It was especially popular on social media because visually it is quite striking,” said Pessoa.

He assures visitors that a salt cod creation will also feature on the menu of his new restaurant, JOIA, which will open in London later this year. But though bacalhau is a traditional and well-explored ingredient for many natives across the country, Pessoa is still finding ways to push Portugal’s love for it into new territory.

Case in point: his “most Instagrammable” creation, Cobblestreet Cod, named for its likeness to the centuries-old streets outside Alma’s front door in the historical Chiado district. It’s a modern twist on an old peasant dish and one of the country’s most beloved salt cod recipes – bacalhau à bras – where typically shredded salt cod, fried matchstick potatoes and onions are all bound together with scrambled egg and garnished with black olives.

“I knew I couldn’t call it bacalhau à bras because the Portuguese are quite traditional, and people sometimes get offended when you play around with classics,” he explained. “I wanted to get inspired by this dish but elevate it presentation-wise, texture-wise and detail-wise into something more delicate and elaborate.”

The outcome is far removed from the version you’d find on family dinner tables. A creamy mixture of salt cod, fried potato, egg and onion arrives at the table hidden under a veil of wafer-thin slices of cod that have been coated in a black olive tapenade to create a cobbled visual. A final surprise comes when you break into the cobbled dome and spilt a confit egg yolk that has been resting in the middle of the salted cod mixture.

“I wanted to dislocate all these elements of the dish and try and make it as perfect as possible. When we launched it in the restaurant, it was an instant success. It was especially popular on social media because visually it is quite striking,” said Pessoa.

Pessoa’s bacalhau

dish is just one of the latest evolutions of a long culinary legacy, one that’s wrapped up in centuries of history little-known to those outside the country. It started towards the end of the 14th Century, when the Portuguese navy found that the dried and salted fish could be stored for years in holds, making it the perfect food for long ocean voyages.

In the mid-1500s, during Portugal’s maritime explorations and hunt to find the coast of India, they stumbled across waters rich with cod around Canada and Greenland; a major discovery that kickstarted Portuguese cod fishing. But by the 16th Century, Portuguese fishermen were pushed out by the French and English.

In the centuries that followed, Portugal became heavily dependent on England as the main exporter of cod, and by the 1800s, the ingredient was something enjoyed only by the aristocracy. However, cod’s popularity expanded in the 20th Century during the reign of Portuguese dictator António de Oliveira Salazar, who wanted to bring it back home. His “cod campaign”, launched in 1934, looked to reignite Portugal’s fishing (and drying) industry and instate cod as a national symbol. Thousands of Portuguese fishermen were sent to Canada and Greenland to fish for cod, with some bringing back up to 900 tonnes per boat.

But this was long, gruelling and often dangerous work, and many men never made it back home to their families. It continued even during World War Two when one Portuguese lugger – the Maria da Glória – was bombed as it headed towards the fishing banks on the west coast of Greenland, killing 36 people on board. These conditions still plague the industry today, with global fatality rates thought to top 24,000 a year, according to the Seafarers Rights International.

It’s this complex history that makes Portugal’s love for cod so deep-rooted, and it’s why Portuguese food expert and chef Leandro Carreira dedicated more than 50 recipes to the product in his new book Portugal, The Cookbook. In total, it features more than 550 traditional recipes from across the country, including a raw salt cod salad, which mixes bacalhau together with barbecued red bell peppers, onions, garlic and parsley.

“If I didn’t include [salt cod], I would have been in a lot of trouble,” said Carreira. “Cod has become so embedded in our culture over the centuries, since the trade of salt began so it was so hard to choose which recipes would feature in the book.”

That love of salt cod still rings true today. “I know people who have eaten cod for more than 30 years every day,” Carreira said. “My grandmother used to eat the same cod dish – cod with boiled potatoes, raw onion, garlic, olive oil, vinegar and parsley – every single day for lunch. Even I, and everyone I know, had cod at least twice a week.

“Cod is an incredibly flexible product. You can grill it, steam it, bake it, deep fry, you can make a cake with it, have it raw after soaking it in water. So, if you combine this with its affordability and its accessibility, you can see why [it’s popular].”

You can grill it, steam it, bake it, deep fry, you can make a cake with it, have it raw after soaking it in water.

Portugal today imports around 70% of its cod from Norway; the Norwegian Seafood Council describes Portugal as “by far the biggest market for Norwegian cod”. They add that out of the 100,000 tonnes Norway exports annually to Portugal, 95% is salted.

In Norway’s remote and icy fishing island of Røst, they even have a name reserved for the heaviest of cod catches: “Portuguese cod,” said Pessoa, who, as a former ambassador for the Norwegian Seafood Council, visited the island several times. “They know Portugal will pay the best price for that cod.”

This is echoed by Rita Karlsen, chief executive of Norway’s Brødrene Karlsen, which has been exporting salted and dried cod to Portugal since the company’s beginning in 1932. “Portugal is very important [to Norwegian cod exporters]; it’s the most important country that we sell to,” she said. “We couldn’t have survived without Portugal.”

This influence has spread far and wide to countries like Brazil, which imported 8.6 tonnes of salt cod during the Easter period alone in 2019, or Angola, which imported 308 tonnes of salt cod from Norway in 2012, according to the Interpretative Center of the History of Cod, Lisbon’s museum dedicated to the fish. In Italy, they even hold a salt cod festival, Festa del Bacala, every year near Venice, and in the Tuscan region they favour classics such as baccalà alla livornese, which marries salt cod with a rich, garlicky tomato sauce.

For other chefs in Portugal, salt cod bridges the past and present. Like Marlene Vieira, MasterChef Portugal judge, head chef of two Lisbon restaurants and the only female face within the chef’s wing of Lisbon’s Time Out Market, where her salt cod pataniscas (fritters) have won her accolades.

She explained how the fritter recipe was passed down from her grandmother, who came from a poor background. This meant she typically used the cheaper tail cuts of the fish in the batter, which had less moisture and resulted in a crispier finish “like tempura” – an excellent companion to the roasted red pepper and garlic mayonnaise that Vieira now serves with it.

As a child, she remembers helping her grandmother in the kitchen “to do the things she wouldn’t like to do”, like peeling onions, garlic and of course carefully picking out any bones left in the salt cod.

Today, while nodding to tradition, Vieira is keen to further promote the fish along with seafood local to Portugal – and her high-end restaurant Marlene focuses on just that. She even cooks it at home for her daughter, who, she said, “loves, loves, loves cod” – proof perhaps that despite the lengths the country has to go to secure this North Atlantic fish, the passion for it will continue to flow through Portuguese veins for generations to come.

–BBC



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From 1906 to today: Nestle’s 120-year journey in Sri Lanka

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Bernie Stefan - proud of Nestle’s 120 years jouney

Bernie Stefan is the Chairman and Managing Director of Nestlé Lanka Limited, overseeing Nestlé’s operations in Sri Lanka and the Maldives. He assumed this role in March 2023. Under his leadership, Nestlé has strengthened its footprint in Sri Lanka, touching individuals and families, communities and spearheading sustainable development.

Since taking charge in 2023, Stefan has brought with him over two decades of international experiences, steering the company with a clear focus on sustainability, innovation and long term growth.

Bernie describes the anniversary as a moment of pride and reflection on over a century of commitment to Sri Lanka and its people.

Under his leadership, Nestle has expanded its footprint while staying true to its mission: to improve lives by providing nutrition and wellness for all Sri Lankans. Beyond the commercial success, the company has focused on community impact – supporting local farmers. promoting sustainable practices and contributing to public health initiatives.

(Q) Nestlé has been part of Sri Lankan homes for 120 years. How has the brand evolved alongside the changing lifestyles of Sri Lankan families?

(A) We at Nestlé are extremely proud of our 120 year journey of enriching Sri Lankan lives. It has been a journey guided by purpose and working together for good – touching individuals and families, the community, and the planet. As lifestyles and needs have evolved, so, too, have our products – offering convenient, tasty and nutritious solutions that meet everyday moments, whether it’s energy on the go or a quick and tasty meal. A true symbol of this legacy is our flagship brand, Nestomalt – synonymous with power, strength and energy – which today is enjoyed as the first cup of the day by a majority of Sri Lankan households.

(Q) Many Sri Lankans have grown up with Nestlé products at their breakfast table or during tea time. How does the company stay emotionally connected with generations of consumers?

(A) Our product range caters to the nutritional needs of consumers from birth to old age. We always ensure that the consumer is at the centre of everything we do. This deep understanding of consumer preferences, ensures not only that our products deliver taste and nutrition but also our communication is in tune to the local context. Our brands have been deeply rooted in the lives of the Sri Lankan community over many decades – be it through Milo school sports programmes or Nestomalt marathons. Being an organisation that has been present in Sri Lanka for such a long time, it also means that consumers hold many nostalgic memories from their childhood with our products.

(Q) From childhood treats to everyday beverages, Nestlé products often carry nostalgic memories. How important is this sense of nostalgia to the brand’s identity?

(A) Brands need to evolve with time and remain relevant. Nostalgia does bring a deep bond and connect with consumers. However, through product and packaging renovations, we have successfully ensured that our brands remain relevant to consumers. One of our oldest Nestlé brands in Sri Lanka, Milkmaid , today, has an online recipe platform with over 300 recipes. This is another example where we have ensured that our brands are able to connect with today’s consumers.

(Q) Has Nestlé adapted its products to suit modern lifestyles while still respecting local tastes?

(A) Our ability to cater to local taste preferences has been a crucial factor to the success of our brands. With the setting up of our local manufacturing operations in 1984, we now manufacture over 90% of Nestlé products sold locally. The deep consumer understanding our teams possess, combined with our global R&D expertise in the food and beverage sector, have given us the ability to tailor make our products to cater to the Sri Lankan taste palette while offering convenience. This is evident in the success of our Nescafe and Nestea 3-in-1 variants and the Ready-to-drink beverage range of Milo and Nescafe, that deliver convenience and great taste.

(Q) How is Nestlé aligning its practices to sustainability and mindful living?

(A) We are committed to reaching net zero carbon emissions by 2050. Promoting circularity is also a focus area in this journey. We have plans to be 100% plastic neutral this year. Our sustainability initiatives cover the entire value chain, from farm to fork. In Sri Lanka, we are focusing a lot on increasing yield and promoting regenerative agricultural practices across our dairy and coconut value chains. In our manufacturing operations, we have continuously striving towards reducing water and energy usage. We have also implemented numerous initiatives to reduce our carbon footprint in logistics, such as the adoption of rail transportation. We also focus on fostering behavioural change on responsible waste disposal amongst the youth through our School Waste Management Programme.

(Q) What moments or milestones best reflect its connection with everyday life in the country?

(A) Our ability to provide consumers with good food moments each and every day is something that I and the team are extremely passionate about. Also, the deep connect we have with the community, be it our dairy and coconut farmers, the numerous suppliers and trade partners, has been built on trust over the years. Today, we have farmers, suppliers and even employees from across generations and this speaks volumes about our business practices and the trust we have built in Sri Lanka for over a century.

(Q) Nestlé is known globally for innovation. How do you balance global expertise with the unique lifestyle and culinary culture of Sri Lanka?

(A) As I mentioned, understanding the taste palette, nutritional needs and the lifestyles of Sri Lankan consumers and ensuring our products fulfill these needs is key. Having access to one of the world’s leading R&D facilities gives us the unique ability to ensure our products deliver to these consumer needs and preferences. Further, it enhances our ability to ensure the freshness and bio-availability of certain nutrients contained in our products. We’ve also made significant strides in packaging innovation, where we use less plastic and materials that are better suited for recycling. The introduction of Coconut Milk Powder in 1986 was a first for Sri Lanka, and this is another great example of the deep understanding we have of local culinary culture.

(Q) How is the younger generation engaged with the brand today?

(A) Appealing to the discerning youth population will be key to ensuring the future success of our brands. Understanding the nuances of each generation is important. It is also evident that consumption patterns and lifestyles across generations are evolving rapidly. Staying abreast of these changes is something we are deeply committed to. In addition to delivering on taste and nutrition, being trendy and youthful – the purpose for which our brands stand for – is equally important. NESCAFÉ and MAGGI PAPARE BLAST are two brands that have developed a strong connect with Sri Lankan youth.

(Q) What vision do you have for the next chapter in Sri Lanka, especially in shaping lifestyle trends?

(A) Looking ahead, our vision is to continue enriching Sri Lankan lives by providing tasty and nutritious products and promoting healthier and active lifestyles. We will keep innovating to meet evolving consumer needs, while strengthening local sourcing and reducing our environmental impact. The next chapter is about deepening our positive impact – supporting communities, empowering youth and contributing to a resilient food system.

(Q) As the head of Nestlé Sri Lanka, what does celebrating 120 years personally mean to you?

(A) Celebrating 120 years in Sri Lanka is deeply meaningful to us, as it reflects the trust generations of Sri Lankan families have placed in Nestlé. This milestone is a testament to the dedication of our people and the strong partnerships we have built across the country. For me personally, it is both a moment of pride and a responsibility – to honour this legacy while continuing to work together for good, doing what is right for our consumers, our communities, and Sri Lanka.

By Zanita Careem

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A hat-trick for knowledge: Saranga’s triple triumph at Raigam Tele’es

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K.C. Saranga

At a time when entertainment often overshadows education on television, K.C. Saranga has rewritten the script—securing a remarkable third consecutive win for Best Educational Programme at the Raigam Tele’es 2025.

His flagship programme, Jeevithayata Vidyawa (Science for Life), aired on Ada Derana, has not only dominated its category but also elevated the standards of educational broadcasting in Sri Lanka.

Reflecting on the milestone, Saranga described the win as more than a personal achievement. “Maintaining an award ceremony of this magnitude for 22 years is no small feat. Raigam Tele’es plays a pivotal role in uplifting the industry. By consistently recognising and rewarding Sri Lankan creators, it provides the necessary oxygen for television to evolve as a professional craft,” he said.

A veteran with over 25 years in the industry, Saranga—currently General Manager (News and Current Affairs) at TV Derana and Head of the Ada Derana News Channel—has seamlessly transitioned from hard news to impactful educational programming. His success underscores a broader vision: to harness television’s full potential as an audio-visual learning tool.

“There is a significant void in Sri Lankan television when it comes to high-quality educational productions,” he noted. “Television is an audio-visual medium; its true power lies in its ability to show, not just tell. We use multimedia elements—graphics, animation, and dynamic presentation—to grip the viewer’s attention.”

Saranga emphasised that his goal was to match global benchmarks. “If world-class science documentaries are available in English, our mission was to bring that same global standard to the Sinhala-speaking audience,” he said.

Through Jeevithayata Vidyawa, complex scientific concepts—from aerodynamics to cyclones—are presented in a manner that is both accessible and engaging, redefining the notion of “edutainment” in local television.

Expressing gratitude, Saranga credited his team and network for the continued success.

“This achievement is a result of a shared vision. My deepest gratitude goes to the management of Ada Derana. In an industry often driven by conventional ratings, they have consistently provided a sanctuary for creative freedom, allowing ‘out-of-the-box’ ideas to flourish,” he said.

He added: “To my incredible production team—this trophy belongs to you. Your technical skill and commitment have transformed simple ideas into a national standard. Finally, thank you to our viewers; your curiosity is our ultimate motivation. We will continue to prove that learning is an inspiring journey.”

Saranga’s hat-trick stands as a testament to the power of innovation in educational broadcasting—proving that knowledge, when presented with creativity and purpose, can captivate audiences just as effectively as mainstream entertainment.

By Ifham Nizam

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‘Style Surge’ blends glamour with a cause

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Lighting up the evening with effortless charm

The event “Style Surge,” organised by the Lions Club Elevate, was an evening filled with glamour, leadership and purpose collided in a spectacular fusion. The grand Ballroom at Galle Face Hotel became a canvas of fashion; every detail, from the floral centrepiece to the curated lighting, whispered elegance, while glamour set the stage, purpose was the back bone.

The show featured a curated selection of Sri Lankan designers, each bringing their signature styles to the stage.

The designers captivated the audience with bold, contemporary silhouettes that fused modern trends with traditional influence, creating pieces that were both sophisticated and wearable.

The batik ensembles by doyen of Batiks, Eric Suriyasena, were masterpieces, demonstrating the designer’s mastery in balancing artistry and practicality. Each piece told a story, highlighting the cultural nuances of Sri Lanka, while contributing to the glamour of the event.

The hair and make up for the models were curated by Salon Avra by Thushari de Silva and was nothing short of perfection,

From sleek, modern looks to elegant textured styles, Salon Avra ensured every model complemented the designer’s vision, highlighting the intricate details of each ensemble. The artistry on stage reflected a seamless collaboration between fashion beauty and presentation.

Style Surge unfolded an evening of elegance, creativity and purpose. It brought together Colombo style conscious crowd, social leaders and fashion enthusiasts and transformed the venue into a vibrant celebration of couture and compassion.

As the lights dimmed,the runaway came alive with a striking showcase of designs, ranging from contemporary chic to timeless sophistication, by designers like Eric Suriyasena, Anushko, Azeena Sulaiman and Jaywanthi Panibharatha. Leading fashion brands showcased were Aluminium, Disala, Eriq and Elegant Closet, and they presented a blend of contemporary and traditional fashion. Jewellery for the show was designed and sponsored by Blue Majestara Ceylon, . The Chief Guest was District Governor Lion Mahesh Borolugoda and his wife Lion Lady Sunethra Borolugoda.

Beyond glamour, this event, Style Surge, carried a meaningful mission to help rennovate two schools and improve educational facilities for future students

Lions Club of Colombo Elevate district 306D6, the organisers of this event, have been long synonymous with community development .The event underscores the power of fashion as a force of good.

Proceeds and awareness generated though the evening will be directed towards the clubs ongoing humanitarian initiatives, reinforcing its commitment to uplifting communities while engaging the public in an inspiring way.

In every sense, the event was more than a fashion show, it was a statement. This event reaffirms that glamour can also carry a purpose, creativity can spark compassion, and a runaway that can become a powerful platform for social change. This fashion show was graced by distinguished guests of honour , including designers Aseka Wijewardena, Michael Wijesuriya, Yolande Aluwihare, and Shyara Mendis

This event was organised by Lion Diana Nilanthi, Shen, Lion Thushari de Silva and Lion Shashika Hettiarachchi, whose commitment to creativity and attention to detail transformed the event into a truly memorable evening. They were the driving force that brought the vision of the show to life. Their meticulous planning, conceptualising the theme, coordinating the designers ensured the show ran seamlessly, from start to finish Pix by Thushara Attapathu

By Zanita Careem

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