Features
Rejected From Romania, back to Bulgaria, Yugoslavia & Austria
CONFESSIONS OF A GLOBAL GYPSY
By Dr. Chandana (Chandi) Jayawardena DPhil
President – Chandi J. Associates Inc. Consulting, Canada
Founder & Administrator – Global Hospitality Forum
chandij@sympatico.ca
My wife and I faced a few unexpected challenges during our winter adventure in 1985. However, without knowing that the worst was yet to come, we were generally
optimistic. We were keen to create a series of unique memories by visiting over 16 countries within a period of six weeks in middle of the winter.
During a memorable visit to Austria in 1982, I was fascinated to listen to our good family friends from Austria, Biggi and Wolfgang Fernau, talk about their heritage and the history of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. They told us that they were true Viennese, Biggi with an Austrian and Czechoslovakian blend and Wolf with an Austrian and Hungarian blend. They were proud of their heritage and the history of their country.
The Austro-Hungarian Empire was a dual monarchy and a constitutional monarchy. It was a great power in Central Europe between 1867 and 1918. It was formed with the Austro-Hungarian Compromise of 1867 in the aftermath of the Austro-Prussian War. In 1878, Austria-Hungary unilaterally occupied the Ottoman provinces of Bosnia-Herzegovina and Novi Pazar. The Austro-Hungarian Empire was not as large as the Ottoman or Turkish Empire (which survived for 623 years) but expanded rapidly in five decades.
Being an imperial power doesn’t impress most people the way it used to during the colonial past. All empire building in history stemmed from human greed for power, often ending with unjustifiable death, shameful disruptions and human right violations. All empires have a life span. The length of the Austro-Hungarian Empire rule was particularly short. It existed for only 51 years when the empire was dissolved after its defeat during the First World War. Nevertheless, it was amazing that a young empire, within a short period of time, had controlled an area of 621,538 km2.
It was a multinational state and one of Europe’s major powers at the time. Austria-Hungary was geographically the second-largest country in Europe after the Russian Empire, and the third-most populous (after Russia and the German Empires). The Austro-Hungarian Empire built up the fourth largest machine building industry in the world, after the United States, Germany and the United Kingdom.
Although my wife was not overly motivated about an expanded tour, I was keen to visit many parts of this past empire, before we went to Vienna to meet our Austrian friends. “We are already in the middle of that former empire, so why not explore the key cities of it?” I asked my wife with an aim of convincing her by showing the following map. “The dotted lines show the balance we need to cover by train”, I made it appear easy to achieve.
We then planned to continue our travel by train with stops in Bucharest in Romania, Budapest in Hungary, Bratislava and Prague in Czechoslovakia and then end up in Vienna in Austria for a longer visit. As we had already visited some key parts of the former Yugoslavia (Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Serbia), we decided to explore Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria next.

BULGARIA
Bulgaria is a small country situated in the east of the Balkans. Its diverse terrain encompasses the Black Sea coastline, a mountainous interior and rivers, including the Danube. A cultural melting pot with Greek, Slavic, Ottoman, and Persian influences, it has a rich heritage of traditional dances, music, costumes and crafts. In 1946, Bulgaria came under the Soviet-led Eastern Bloc and became a socialist state. The country faced a demographic crisis with its population shrinking from nine million in 1985 to roughly 6.5 million in 2022.
The history of the capital city Sofia, dates to the 5th century BC. 1.2 million or 13% of Bulgaria’s population in 1985, lived in Sofia. When we reached Sofia around 2:00 am, we were very tired and needed a full night sleep before any more tours. Unfortunately, all of the smaller hotels were full and the only available room in the city was at Novotel Europa, which was too expensive for us.
The taxi driver who drove us to find an affordable hotel wasted our time by taking us around the city without finding one. When we realized that he was simply going round to keep his meter ticking, we insisted that he returns us to the railway station. He did so but overcharged us. We managed to get a few hours sleep in the heated but crowded rest room of the main railway station until armed guards arrived around 6:00 am to chase away all the those resting there, including the both of us.
We decided to stay around the station until the information counter opened and had the worst possible meal at the only nearby restaurant open at that time. Our standing breakfast at a high table included dry bread, salty gherkins, sliced sausages and black coffee. Their menu had no other choices. Finally, when the information counter was opened by a rude woman, we managed to book a room in a nearby hotel who charged us much more than the agreed rate. We felt that Bulgaria was certainly not ready for tourism in 1985.
Later I did a city taxi tour of Sofia with a guide and on foot. My wife did not join me as she preferred to catch up on her sleep. I was shown some TV towers, which the guide claimed to be the tallest in Europe. He also took me to museums, monuments, the national assembly and a Turkish fort. At the end of the tour, I was taken to St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral which is an impressive landmark in Sofia. The church was built as a memorial to the 200,000 Russian soldiers who died in the Russo-Turkish Liberation War (1877-1878).
When our train to Bucharest left around 10:00 pm, we decided that we would never return to Sofia again. That decision was short lived. As usual, the compartments were freezing cold and we were asked by the guard to pay US $4 extra for a warmer compartment which we did. Around 5:00 am we reached Rousse, a medium size Bulgarian city close to the border of Romania.
The Romanian custom officials were rude, rough and loud. They took our passports and tickets and ordered us to get out of the train. When we asked the reason for their aggressive behaviour in spite us of having valid visas for Romania issued by their embassy in London, they did the unthinkable. They threw our bags off the train and when we got off to pick up the bags, the train left without us.
We were left shivering on the platform for 30 minutes in -25 °C temperature. After that we were allowed to enter a heated rest room, where they returned our passports and tickets after announcing that we were not allowed to enter Romania. They refused to give any reasons.
A month later, when we returned to England, I wrote a detailed letter to the Romanian Embassy in London, asking for an explanation, a refund of visa fees and an apology. They never bothered to reply. Up until today, I am unaware of their reasons for such unwelcoming conduct at their border. That was the worse experience I ever had in travelling to nearly 100 countries.
After staying at the border train station for another four hours, we were finally escorted to a train going from Rousse back to Sofia. After returning to a city that we did not want to visit again, around 6:00 pm we had another standing meal at the railway station restaurant, of the same limited menu (dry bread, salty gherkins, sliced sausages and black coffee).
That was our worst day ever!

We managed to get a room at a nearby hotel around 10:00 pm and hoped for a good night’s sleep. In the early hours of the morning, there was a power failure and the hotel generator did not start. We kept warm by sitting around the wood fireplace in the hotel lobby.
We gratefully took the first morning train from Sofia to Belgrade. We were still thinking of what happened to us at the Romanian border. We were shocked, saddened and it felt like a lingering nightmare. In our compartment we managed to have a conversation with two Turkish brothers travelling to Austria in search of work.
They spoke a few English words and we spoke a few German words. They were not surprised about the rude behaviour of the Romanian custom officers. They said probably Romania is having a serious energy crisis due to the bad weather and therefore not allowing foreigners to enter their country.
Later during the train ride, we shared our lunch with the two brothers. They shared a snack – a crispy flat bread and some fermented turnip juice with us. That was spicy, and we liked it. Afterwards, we played some gin rummy with them. I taught them this card game and they became very good at it. As the train came closer to Belgrade we exchanged our addresses. They also gave us a gift, a small key tag from Turkey. We had nothing of significance to give, but when we gave them our pack of cards they thanked us sincerely and left.
Soon after reaching Belgrade after sunset, we hurried to the information counter. For once we had good luck. The lady working there was friendly, cheerful, helpful and even spoke a little English. We confirmed our seats for the next train ride and had a quick dinner. We also went to the central post office and managed to call our friends in Austria to tell them our arrival time in Vienna. The evening train was warmer than we expected, another bonus.
Ivan, a young Yugoslavian of Slovenian ethnic background was in our compartment; we became quite friendly. He was travelling to Zagreb to commence his compulsory, military service. He showed us a photograph of his beautiful, teenage girlfriend he was leaving in his village. We suspected that he was anxious, as he continuously drank a large quantity of Rakia, a popular locally-made fruit spirit. Yugoslavians, particularly Slovenians, are classified as heavy drinkers and statistics showed that they drink an average of 12 litres of pure alcohol per year. They were also, notably, the seventh biggest beer consumers in the world. Ivan offered us drinks and we just had one to keep him company.
Every time Ivan poured a new drink, he shouted “Na zdravje!” (Cheers!). As Ivan became more drunk his cheers became louder and happier. Finally in his drunkenness, Ivan lay down to sleep. He snored loudly and overslept. When the train stopped in Zagreb, we had a hard time to wake him up. Ivan thanked and hugged us to say goodbye before rushing to the platform.
A moment later we realized that he had forgotten to take one of his bags. I rushed with the bag to the platform and shouted, “Ivan!”. I could not find him and the train was starting to move. I had to run fast to get into the moving train. Fortunately, we saw him through a train window as the train moved away from the station. When he saw us, he waved back at us and yelled something in his language. An older Slovenian gentleman in the compartment told us, while laughing, “He said ‘goodbye, my good friends!’”. We hoped that he had heard our shouts, “Your other bag is left on the platform!”
Around 5:00 am we crossed over the Yugoslavia-Austria border. The Austrian officials were very professional and polite. We could not help but compare and contrast the Austrian welcome with our recent experiences, elsewhere. We passed a small border town in Austria, Spielfeld, and three hours later we reached a larger city, Graz.
I suggested to my wife that after a couple of days in Vienna, we do some day trips from Vienna to Budapest, Bratislava and Prague. She put her foot down and said firmly, “Chandi, I will never visit a socialist country again!” I tactfully postponed the negotiation for another day when we were not exhausted. I was still keen to experience most of the key cities of the former Austro-Hungarian Empire.
The train took two and half hours to travel from Graz to Vienna. While enjoying the breath-takingly beautiful Austrian winter scene, I summarized our travels during the previous three weeks in my travel journal. We were in the middle of our winter travel adventure. My calculations indicated that we had travelled for over 240 hours including 12 nights in trains to cover 12 countries.
It was time for a well-earned rest in one of our favourite cities in the world. When we reached Vienna around 9:30 am, our friends Biggi and Wolf, and a few of their friends were at the station to give us a hero’s welcome.
Will continue in next week’s article: “Austria-Hungary-Czechoslovakia-Liechtenstein”
Features
Dilemmas of ‘hurting economies’ – the case of Sri Lanka
Maldives President Dr. Mohamed Muizzu was in Sri Lanka recently on what was apparently a goodwill visit and this event, no doubt, bodes very well for Maldives-Sri Lanka relations. Besides, the visit would go some distance in strengthening Sri Lanka’s claims to Non-Alignment.
However, the commentator on regional politics could be accused of simplistic thinking if he/she glosses over or ignores the regional politics nuances or undertones of the Maldivian President’s visit. In Sri Lanka we currently have a government which is eager to solidify its bridges, so to speak, with China and which, given the chance, would be courting increasingly close relations with Russia. In other words, the NPP government is likely to see itself as a ‘natural ally’ of the East and would prefer to distance itself to the extent possible from the West, if that is a realistic proposition.
Given the foregoing backdrop, it would be in some of the NPP regime’s best interests to be on cordial terms with the Maldives which is a close ally of China in the South Asian region. However, the NPP government, given the utter financial helplessness of Sri Lanka, cannot afford to distance itself politically and diplomatically from India and the West. Sheer economic necessity compels Sri Lanka to adopt this foreign policy stance. In other words, the latter has no choice but to be ‘Non-Aligned.’
This columnist was led to the above observations on listening to a lucid and comprehensive presentation titled, ‘A Global Economy in the Shadow of the Iran War and implications for Sri Lanka’s debt recovery’, by Dr. Ganeshan Wignaraja, Visiting Senior Fellow, ODI Global London, at the Regional Centre for Strategic Studies (RCSS), Colombo on May 4th. The forum, RCSS Strategic Dialogue – 4, was moderated and presided over by RCSS Executive Director Ambassador (retd) Ravinatha Aryasinha.
The forum brought together a wide cross section of society, including diplomatic personnel, academicians, public and private sector personalities and the media. After the presentation a very lively and informative Q&A followed.
Ambassador Aryasinha at the outset set an appropriate backdrop to the presentation and discussion by stressing ‘the increasing interconnectedness of geopolitical and economic developments, noting how disruptions in the Middle East could have significant ramifications for global markets, trade flows, energy prices and broader economic stability, including Sri Lanka.’
Indeed, there are occurring currently very disruptive economic and material consequences for the world from ‘the Iran War’, and with US-Iran hostilities spiraling in West Asia it may not be wrong to surmise that the worst could be yet to come, unless a peace process materializes in earnest.
Meanwhile, ‘hurting countries’ such as Sri Lanka would need to summon their best economic management capabilities to remain materially and economically afloat. ‘Economic transformation’ is what is urgently needed and not mere management and some of the insights thrown up by Dr. Ganeshan Wignaraja should have the local polity thinking.
There was the following observation, for instance: ‘Sri Lanka has achieved remarkable cyclical stabilization but faces critical challenges in transitioning to transformative growth, with 2027-2028 debt repayments looming and only $5.4 billion usable reserves.’
Needless to say, the path ahead to ‘transformative growth’ for Sri Lanka is strewn with multiple challenges and meeting them effectively is of the first importance. Sri Lanka must soldier on towards even a semblance of development in the short and medium terms and such initiatives cannot be separated from its foreign policy choices since the country’s economic partners and their growth prowess have a close bearing on the country’s material fortunes.
As mentioned, Sri Lanka will be compelled to be ‘a friend of all countries and an enemy of none’ going forward but it cannot afford to be seen as cultivating China as a close growth partner at the expense of India and other major economies of the region.
This is primarily because while India is remaining a major economic power, the current West Asian crisis notwithstanding, China’s economy is being seen as ‘slowing’. Dr. Wignaraja singled out the following in the main as the factors causing this slow-down: a bursting property bubble, increasing state regulation, and weakening investor confidence. Besides, the speaker sees production cycles moving away from China and India replacing China and Hong Kong as ‘manufacturing hubs’.
Accordingly, the NPP regime in Sri Lanka would need to craft its regional policy in particular with the utmost far-sightedness. It will need to have close economic links with all the growth centres that matter.
On the question of authentic economic transformation, the following observations of Dr. Wignaraja on Sri Lanka’s economy are of the first importance as well: ‘Foreign reserves are now at $ 5.4 billion, the cost of living is high, an estimated 20 per cent of the population lives below the poverty line of $ 3.65 per day, the recent cyber security breach at the Treasury would affect some 10 payments.’ These factors were termed ‘critical vulnerabilities’.
It is difficult to conceive of an economic transformation worthy of the phrase minus a steady economic empowerment of the populace. The above data point to the considerable magnitude of the local poverty problem. Right now, the disruptive effects of the West Asian crisis render swift poverty alleviation a most difficult proposition.
One possible way out of the present economic debacle is the forging of a national consensus by the present government on all outstanding problems that have been bedeviling the country’s advancement. That is, there needs to be a meeting of minds across current political divides. Considering the present inflammatory political polarities in Sri Lanka this would prove an insurmountable challenge.
Unfortunately, conscience-filled and civic minded sections in Sri Lanka have chosen to be laid back rather than seize the initiative, come centre stage and impress on politicians the need for enlightened governance and progressive change. There needs to be a historic coming together of the right thinking to ensure that the best interests of the people and of the people only are served by governments. In the absence of such a process, might would be projected as right and brute force would come to increasingly rule politics and society.
Features
Australia funds project to restore climate-resilient vegetable livelihoods in cyclone-affected highlands
The Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock, Lands and Irrigation, the Government of Australia, and the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) have launched of a AUD 2 million (USD 1.4 million) recovery initiative to restore and transform vegetable production systems in the cyclone-affected districts of Nuwara Eliya and Badulla.
The FAO said yesterday (5) that the agreement was formalized through the signing of the grant agreement by Matthew Duckworth, Australian High Commissioner to Sri Lanka, and Vimlendra Sharan, FAO Representative for Sri Lanka and the Maldives, alongside the signing of the project document by D. P. Wickramasinghe, Secretary of Agriculture.
Cyclone Ditwah, which struck Sri Lanka in November 2025, caused widespread devastation across the country, severely disrupting agricultural production systems and livelihoods. The highland districts of Nuwara Eliya and Badulla, key suppliers of vegetables such as beans, carrots, leeks, cabbage, tomato and potato, were among the hardest hit, with thousands of smallholder farmers losing crops, seed stocks, and productive assets.
This 12-month initiative aims torestore and strengthen climate-resilient vegetable production systems, with a strong focus on empowering women farmers and supporting persons with disabilities. The project will directly benefit more than 2,400 smallholder farmers, through improved seed and seedling production systems, small machinery, training, and market linkages while indirectly supporting thousands more.
“This initiative is an important step not only in restoring what was lost, but in building a more resilient and self-reliant agricultural sector,” said Minister Lal Kantha. “By strengthening local seed systems and supporting smallholder farmers, particularly women and vulnerable groups, we are investing in the long-term sustainability of Sri Lanka’s food systems.”
“Australia stands alongside Sri Lanka in its ongoing recovery from Cyclone Ditwah,” said High Commissioner Duckworth. “Australia is a steadfast partner in the agriculture sector with its importance for food security, rural development and climate resilience. By focusing on climate smart practices, farmer-led solutions and inclusive economic opportunities, this project will deliver meaningful and lasting benefits to affected communities.
The project will prioritize the restoration of farmer-led seed systems for beans and potatoes, support the re-establishment of both open-field and protected cultivation systems and women led seedling supply nurseries while empowering all farmers with Climate-Smart Good Agricultural Practices (CSGAP) with small scale machinery and input support.
A key feature of the initiative is the establishment of six accessible and inclusive nurseries in Nuwara Eliya and Badulla. These nurseries will serve as sustainable agri-based enterprises, producing high-quality vegetable seedlings while creating new income opportunities and strengthening local input supply chains.
By combining recovery support with long-term resilience measures, the project will help stabilize vegetable production, improve household food security and nutrition, and reduce reliance on imported seeds.
Features
War on Iran may hasten unraveling of New World Order
It took several decades for the US to realise it was losing the war in Vietnam. It took a bit shorter time in Afghanistan. And what is happening in the countries the US and Israel intervened and broke up? The US has been asked to leave Iraq. Syria is talking to Russia about establishing military bases, President al-Sharaa met with Vladimir Putin in Moscow to discuss the project, which is vital for Russian power projection in the Middle East. Libya has been divided into two competing administrative units with the Eastern section actively engaged with Russia in defence matters. The Sudanese government has finalised a 25-year deal to allow a Russian naval facility in the Red Sea in exchange for weapons, including anti-aircraft systems. On the Eastern side of the Red Sea, Yemen remains divided, with the main power center, the Houthis maintaining a staunchly anti-US, anti-Israel stance, while the internationally recognised government remains in exile.
When the Iranian Foreign Minister recently undertook a tour of Pakistan, Oman and Russia, the US wanted to meet him and got ready to send its negotiators Vice President J. D. Vance and his team to Pakistan, but Iranian FM snubbed them and left Pakistan, saying Iran did not want to talk to the US while a blockade of their ports were in place. The Iranian FM met President Putin, who congratulated Iran for courageously defending their country and then phoned US President Trump and told him further attacks on Iran would not be acceptable. During this conversation on April 27, 2026, Putin reportedly warned Trump that further U.S. or Israeli attacks on Iran would have dangerous consequences, according to Al Jazeera). Such a sequence of events would not have been possible in the unipolar world we had in the past.
Furthermore, the damage that Iran has inflicted on the US and Israel in this war would have been unimaginable in the late 20th Century and early 21st Century. Sixteen US military bases spread across Saudi Arabia, Qatar, UAE, Bahrain, Kuwait, Iraq, Jordan and Oman have been either destroyed or severely damaged. Advanced surveillance aircraft and radar systems worth more than $ 2.8 bn were destroyed. This had a far-reaching effect on the war as the US could not use these bases in the war against Iran and also in the defence of its allies in the Gulf.
The attacks on Israel have been equally damaging. In Central Israel and Tel Aviv area multiple attacks targeted military and intelligence assets, resulting in massive damage. Iranian missiles hit the Haifa oil refinery, causing a shutdown, and hit residential buildings, leading to injuries and structural damage. Residential and commercial areas were damaged in Bat Yam and Petah Tikva with significant casualties and destruction. Attacks in Dimona and Arad targeted the Negev Nuclear Research Center, with casualties reported in both towns. The Soroka Medical Center in Beersheba was hit in a strike. The strategic port and naval base in Eilat were targeted. In Rishon LeZion suburban residential areas suffered extensive damage.
Usually, Israel makes short work of its many enemies in the region, for example it took just six days to defeat the combined military of Egypt, Jordan and Syria in 1967 and grab their land as well. Hamas, Fatah and Palestinians would suffer ignominious defeats if they dare challenge Israel. However, the recent war against Hamas, following a daring wide scale invasion into Israel by Hamas in October 2023, went on for more than two years with no conclusive victory for Israel.
These significant massive military setbacks suffered by the combined forces of the US and Israel have been made possible by the unprecedented advancement in military technology achieved mainly by China and to a degree by Russia as well. Iran has been able to develop ballistic missile systems that could penetrate the “iron dome” that Israel boasted, with technological assistance from China and North Korea. Iran’s drones are very cheap yet very effective, requiring interceptors worth millions of dollars to counter them, thus making it much more costly for the US to fight this war than it is for Iran.
Further, Hezbollah in Lebanon, Houthies in Yemen and Hamas in Palestine are well equipped with advanced missiles and drones. Hezbollah has been able to destroy about hundred Israel tanks and stop their advance. According to Larry Johnson, former CIA intelligence analyst, Israel soldiers are much war weary and mentally affected and are being withdrawn. Netanyahu’s 40 year dream of a “Greater Israel” is telling on the poor soldiers.
If a person like Barack Obama had been the US President instead of the hyper egoistic, blustering, intellectually barren Trump, things may have been different. An attempt would have been made to reconcile with the fact that the world is changing, instead of trying to stop it and make “America Great Again”. Perhaps, it could be said that Trump is facilitating the emergence of the new world order by enabling the US citizens to see the reality, the futility of war and the fact that Israel is a liability because the US is fighting its war. Further, the war has enabled Iran to assert its place in the region and negotiate from a position of strength.
Perhaps, Israeli people may realise that the Palestine problem cannot be solved by militarily occupying their land, and that in a changing world a “Greater Israel” is a “pie in the sky”. They may have to agree to a two-state solution. US support may not always be forthcoming, certainly not at the level that Trump could extend, as this war is very unpopular and expensive. The other very significant fact is that Israeli settlers in the occupied lands feel insecure and one in three wants to leave and the numbers may grow when Palestinians and their sympathisers grow in strength in the new world order.
Moreover, the war on Iran has afforded China the opportunity to demonstrate with authority the fact that it stands for universal peace and does not tolerate illegal wars. Its message to the US conveyed its world view and its desire for peace in no uncertain terms. Trump cannot afford to disregard the Chinese position on the war on the eve of his visit to that country which may decide on future trade between the two countries as the US depends on China for several essential materials like rare earth minerals. Furthermore, China has shown that peace could be achieved by developing the economies of the underdeveloped countries irrespective of their alliances. It helps Iran as well as Saudi Arabia and try to build bridges between these foes. It welcomes Trump in the coming weeks and hopes to strengthen ties between the two countries despite the weaknesses of the latter.
Another important factor is the gradual decline of the critical value of the petro-dollar. Following the end of the gold standard in 1971, the US struck deals with Saudi Arabia and other OPEC nations (around 1974) to price oil exclusively in USD in exchange for military protection and arms sales. Dollars earned by selling oil came to be known as petro-dollar. Oil producers, holding large dollar surpluses, reinvest these funds in the US Treasury securities, real estate, and financial assets ensuring the recycling of petro-dollars. The system ensures a consistent global demand for US dollars, which helps fund the US budget deficit and maintains the currency’s dominance.
However, the petro-dollar system is on the decline and there are two main reasons for this, firstly the gradual rise of the new world order with organisations like BRICS, making a concerted effort to extricate from the dollar dominance by developing alternate currencies and methods to bypass the dollar. Secondly, the need felt by most countries to develop alternative energy sources to replace enormously harmful fossil fuel would eventually result in a decline in the demand for it and consequently the effectiveness of the petro-dollar. China is leading the world in both these endeavours; depolarisation process and renewable energy production. The war on Iran seems to have hastened the process of depolarisation as Iran insists that it will sell its oil for yuan only.
These revolutionary changes in the aftermath of the Iran war have their undeniable implications for the Global South, where more than 60% of the poor live.
by N. A. de S. Amaratunga
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