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Musical ‘choon paan’bread trucks

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by Zinnara Ratnayake

For years, the sound of Beethoven meant bread in Sri Lanka. Now, years after the island’s mobile bread vendors disappeared, they’re being revived to help during the pandemic.

I was young when I first heard the music. It came from the earthen road outside where a man was selling bread from a tuk tuk. Unlike other colourful three-wheeled vehicles, the back of this one held a glass display cabinet piled high with neatly stacked baked goods. “It’s the choon paan man,” my father told me.

“Choon paan” loosely translates to “music bread” in Sinhala. During my childhood, the fresh-off-the-oven kimbula (“crocodile”) bun we bought from the choon paan man for evening tea gave me bliss. This beautifully fluffy, buttery, home-baked bun was sprinkled with sugar and twisted into a slender, crocodile-like shape. Half of it was for me, the other for my father.

Twice a day starting at 06:30, choon paan trucks would drive along the dusty path near the paddy fields of my family’s rural village in Kurunegala, 120km north-east of Colombo, selling loaves of bread. Early in the morning, the men circled the roads with fish buns and sausage rolls made at small bakeries. They reappeared in the afternoon around 16:00, bringing sweet buns for tea. Some were buttery, round-shaped buns dotted with raisins. Others were stuffed with jam or sprinkled with sugar.

For us growing up on the tropical island, Beethoven meant bread

For years, these small trucks all played the same, tinny recorded music. When I heard the faint hum of the breadman from a distance, I would run to the dusty path and call my father. Years later, during music classes in school, I realised that this familiar tune that we Sri Lankans just called “choon paan music” was actually Beethoven’s 1810 classic Für Elise.

So, how did this classical composition written in Austria come to symbolise fresh-baked confections in Sri Lanka?

When tuk tuks became increasingly popular in Sri Lanka in the early 2000s, many bakers used the three-wheeled vehicles to take their bun business on the road and sell to distant neighbourhoods and villages. This was also around the time when mobile phones became popular. Just as an ice cream truck’s jingle alerts residents that it’s approaching, these mobile bakers started playing their mobile phone’s ringtone through a horn speaker to let residents know the choon paan truck was near.

Of course, one of the most popular ringtones from the early 2000s was Beethoven’s iconic masterpiece, Für Elise. So, whenever people in Sri Lanka would hear it, we’d head out to wait for the “music bread” truck to arrive. Ever since, for us growing up on the tropical island, Beethoven meant bread.

After relocating to the city of Kandy for high school, I still heard Für Elise every day. Even when I was already late for class, with my school tie loosely hanging around my neck and my hair braided into two with white ribbons, I ran after the choon paan truck to catch it for morning fish buns. Stuffed with canned fish, spiced potato and chopped vegetables, they were a treat with a cup of piping-hot ginger tea.

Six years ago, I moved again, to Sri Lanka’s capital, Colombo. In the six years I’ve been here, I’ve seldom seen a choon paan truck nor heard the familiar tune I grew up with.

Sri Lanka’s famous music bread trucks have made a comeback, thanks to an unlikely reason: the coronavirus pandemic

According to Colombo-based baker Padmini Marasinghe, that’s because it has recently become much more fashionable – and even a status symbol – to be able to buy baked goods at a traditional bakery than to buy bread from a truck. As a result, Sri Lanka’s once-ubiquitous music bread trucks have now largely disappeared.

As Marasinghe explained, many urbanites were convinced that breads from chain bakeries were of better quality than those from mobile trucks. “But choon paan products are from home bakers. They are better than mass-produced food in large bakeries,” Marasinghe said.

She also added that people complained choon paan goods were too expensive given their small, mobile operation. “They reduced prices and curtailed the quality to make marginal profits. There was less filling in a fish bun or little butter in a kimbula bun, so they lost their clientele,” Marasinghe said.

Then in 2017, the former government banned loud music from mobile bakeries, which further led to their demise. Some trucks circled the roads without music but failed to make a profit. Without Beethoven notifying the neighbourhood that bread was coming, it seemed that residents wouldn’t rush to the street.

In recent years, cities and tourist towns have also seen a rise in home delivery services. “People would rather order fish buns from an upmarket bakery on Uber Eats” Marasinghe said. “This put choon paan out of business.”

Marasinghe admits that the idea of starting a choon paan truck had always seemed tempting to her, but by the time she started her small bakery in 2019, nearly all the bread trucks were gone.

Yet, in recent months, Sri Lanka’s famous music bread trucks have made a comeback, thanks to an unlikely reason: the coronavirus pandemic.

As the virus began sweeping across Asia, Sri Lanka imposed an island-wide curfew to slow its spread. The government ordered restaurants, bakeries and all “non-essential” businesses to close. Marasinghe had to shutter her business, too. Yet, the government did permit the door-to-door sales of baked goods.

Many of these mobile bakeries are now back on Sri Lanka’s streets, with residents listening for the familiar ringtone sounds of Für Elise

“With no way to salary my bakery staff, I decided to start a choon paan truck as home delivery of bakery products [was] termed an ‘essential service’,” she said.

Unable to find a tuk tuk, Marasinghe’s husband borrowed a friend’s mini lorry and turned it into a makeshift choon paan truck to operate in Hanwella, about 30km from Colombo. “We played Für Elise so it would send the message: the choon paan man is back!” Marasinghe said.

She is not alone. Many of these mobile bakeries are now back on Sri Lanka’s streets, with residents listening for the familiar ringtone sounds of Für Elise and rushing to their gates for loaves of bread. In fact, almost overnight, bakers dusted off their old choon paan trucks and created a delivery network of tuk tuk bread to ensure that housebound islanders could get their buns.

“They’ve found a new appreciation,” said Colombo-based journalist Amalini De Sayrah. “Perhaps we didn’t realise how valuable it was, but now stuck at home with no way to go out, people are realising the value of choon paan.”

Arul Kogilan, a physician volunteering as part of a Covid-19 prevention task force, appreciates the return of choon paan drivers as essential-service providers. “With bakery goods being delivered to their gates, people can stay home avoiding the risk,” he said. “But we need to acknowledge that they are putting themselves out there at risk for us.”

While the curfew was relaxed late last month, islanders are advised to stay home except for obligatory work.

Now that I’m sheltering in place back home where I grew up, at around 07:00 am every morning, I wake up to the sound of choon paan. The truck travels past our house as the rattling Fur Elise eventually fades into a vague hiss. When I get up, my father has already bought bread. In the late afternoon, when I hear Fur Elise from a distance, I cry out for my father.

It’s as though I’m young again, waiting for the classical ringtone and the simple joy of a sugar-sprinkled choon paan kimbula bun.

One half for me, the other for my father.



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Julie Chung’s graceful goodbye

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Chung

Last chapter in Colombo

Elegant, articulate and amiable, U.S. Ambassador to Sri Lanka Julie Chung reaches the end of her term, with the quiet confidence of a woman who has shaped diplomacy across continents.

In this interview, she speaks with emotional clarity and stately restraint, offering insights shaped by memory, responsibility and a deep respect for the human stories behind public life.

A diplomat of distinction and a fashion icon in her own right, she embodies a modern elegance where intellect meets instinct and presence becomes power. She speaks of her time in Sri Lanka not as a posting, but as a chapter of memory, reflecting with grace on the experiences she will carry forward—memories woven with diplomacy, style and a deep affection for a place that became more than a destination.

As she says goodbye, Julie Chung carries with her not just memories but the very essence of the island: the warmth of its people, the quiet beauty of its moments, and a grace that will remain long after she has left. With an international career spanning Asia, Latin America, the Middle East and Washington D.C., she embodies modern diplomacy—polished, perceptive and quietly powerful. She leaves Colombo shaped by its people, moments and connections.

Q: Ambassador, as your tenure in Sri Lanka comes to a close, what moments during your posting stand out the most for you personally and professionally?

A: Celebrating the 75th anniversary of our bilateral relationship was a watershed moment and a time to reflect upon all that we’ve accomplished together- from maritime security partnerships to trade to youth engagement. Opening a beautiful, new U.S. Embassy building was also a highlight, a place where we could really come together and build a community, host our American Centre, and a physical symbol of our efforts to deepen our presence in Sri Lanka. A personal highlight was scuba diving at various wreck sites, including the Godawaya shipwreck from which artifacts were preserved through the U.S. Ambassadors Fund for Cultural Preservation, and marveling at the underwater heritage of Sri Lanka.

Q: How would you describe your overall experience living and working in Sri Lanka?

A: I’ve seen many challenges and difficulties that Sri Lanka has gone through during my tenure, but so much joy, resilience, and pride too. Sri Lankans are very proud of their tourism sites, foods, and cultural heritage- and rightfully so! I saw my role as a bridge builder between our two countries professionally, and I absorbed everything I could personally as well to delve into Sri Lankan culture. And the food–anyone who knows me knows that I have traversed the island trying and loving the amazing food here. From Jaffna crab to lamprais, I am going to go through serious spice withdrawal when I leave. My family enjoyed exploring so much of Sri Lanka with me, and even Martha, my dog loved her walks around Colombo!

Batik U.S. flag created by U.S. Embassy staff

Q What challenges did you face in strengthening US-Lanka relations and how were they overcome?

A: One of the challenges was to overcome misperceptions and misinformation about the United States and personal attacks on me. Holding this position invites a lot of attention and scrutiny, and I got my fair share of that while navigating through the public spotlight. I tried to share my personal stories, relay official positions clearly, and be authentic to the Sri Lankan public, not just as an ambassador but as a human being, a wife, and mother. I sought to engage directly with many communities across the island, not just government-to-government but truly people-to-people, speaking directly with farmers, entrepreneurs, students, speaking to them on my role and the United States role in Sri Lanka. It was not always easy, but I appreciated the candidness of everyone I met. As a Christian, it was also important for me to find places of worship to have fellowship which helped me stay faithful and resilient during the challenging times.

Q: Can you share an example of a cultural exchange, a people-to-people initiative that particularly resonated with you?

A: The return of the Peace Corps to Sri Lanka after a long hiatus was one of my proudest moments. I met young Americans willing to put in the work to learn Sinhala and Tamil, assimilate with local families, teach English at local schools—and in the process, learn from their students, too. It goes to the heart of what the Peace Corps was created to do–bringing Americans and communities together through service, learning, and shared understanding.

Q: Sri Lanka is known for its vibrant culture. Did your experience here influence your personal life or style?

A: I loved learning about the arts in Sri Lanka. I’ve attended the annual Kala Pola art fair where I could interact with both seasoned and up and coming artists and made a few purchases myself. I learned about Sri Lanka’s unique batik making culture and integrated various modern takes to batik design in clothes I wear. Our embassy community visited Sonali Dharmawardena’s batik workshop to learn first-hand about batik making and created a beautiful American flag artwork that hangs inside our embassy now.

Q: Who were your favourite designers or fashion experiences that stood out to you during your time here?

A I’ve loved admiring and showcasing so many talented local designers here, who also became my close friends. I consider them artists more than designers because it really is artistry and it comes from their hearts, reflecting who they are as individuals. Sonali Dharmawardhana, Charini Suriyage, Darshi Keerthisena, Kamil Hewavitharana, and Sammani Pathiranagama have been some of my favorites! I leave with a very full suitcase and I can’t wait to share my love of Sri Lankan design with Americans.

Q How did participating in Sri Lanka’s cultural and social events help in strengthening diplomatic relationships?

Two U.S. C-130s supported cyclone Ditwah response by transporting donated goods across the country

A Diplomacy is not just about having official meetings but diving into a country’s culture and personality; it provides us a deeper understanding and at the same time offers an opportunity to share the immense richness of American culture as well. When we invited our sports diplomacy ambassadors and arts envoys to come to Sri Lanka, it created avenues for more people-to-people connections. Every conversation I had, every trip I took, and every photo I snapped created that tapestry that led to my love for Sri Lanka. I took part in Sri Lanka’s social and cultural events while also creating opportunities for others to engage with American arts and culture.

Q: Were there moments in Colombo’s social scene that brought you joy or surprise?

A: I really enjoyed attending the Royal Thomian cricket match! It was my first ever cricket match and was so exciting to see the fans, the festive mood, and I joined along with the dancing, too. It was nice to see people from all walks of life and political factions come together in such a way for the love of the game.

Q: What memory of Sri Lanka will you carry with you forever?

A: One memory I will always carry with me is how Sri Lankans came together to support one another during the tragic period following Cyclone Ditwah. I was deeply moved by the compassion and solidarity shown at the community level. When we were able to offer $2 million in humanitarian aid and bring two C130 airplanes to deliver supplies, it really made me proud. Personally taking part in some of those flights and talking to the military forces and local communities was memorable. As a diplomat, I believe it’s important we get involved hands-on and not just watch from afar. Seeing Americans and Sri Lankans working side by side, physically unloading goods off of our planes was a powerful reminder that in difficult moments, our partnership is strongest, and that the friendship between our two countries is built on ordinary people and shared values.

Q: If you could relive one day of your tenure here, which day would it be and why?

A: It would be to climb back up to the peak of Sri Pada again with my husband and see the sun rising above the mountains and the shadows of the temple, and take in the natural glory of that moment in such a special cultural place. It was not just the natural beauty, but the friendliness of the pilgrims and fellow climbers who encouraged each other, even me, as I took on that climb. Moments along the journey—sharing a cup of tea or listening to someone’s story—kept me energized.

Q: What are the strongest impressions of Sri Lanka that you will take back with you?

A: Sri Lanka is such a diverse island- from its landscape and tourism sites to its religions, ethnicities, and cuisines. I say this often, it is a magical island that bursts with passion, energy, and a richness that makes every part of the country feel distinct yet deeply connected. I travelled throughout Sri Lanka, by boats, cars, planes, and trains – the sounds, smells, and beauty will stay with me forever.

Q: How would you describe the spirit of the Sri Lankan people to friends and colleagues abroad?

A: The spirit of Sri Lankans is definitely something I’ve come to learn about and admire so much – it goes beyond resilience during tough periods and is reflected in the humor and creativity of its people and traditions. That can be seen through the arts, literature, and even political cartoons. The Sri Lankan people are amazing and have given me memories that will last a lifetime. I am grateful for my time here and will carry it with me always.

By Zanita Careem ✍️

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Gilded glamour at Grand Kandyan

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Celebrations with grandeur

The Grand Kandyan transformed into a sanctuary of elegance this past New Year’s Eve, hosting a spectacular gala dinner dance that seamlessly blended tradition with high-energy celebration.

From the moment guests arrived, they were swept into a world of luxury. The hotel and ballroom were meticulously decorated, setting a festive tone that promised an unforgettable night. The evening commenced with a sophisticated cocktail hour in the lobby, where guests mingled before being ushered into the majestic Royal Peacock Ballroom for the main event.

A Symphony of Black and Gold

The ballroom was a sight to behold, draped in a striking theme of black and gold. The color palette exuded sophistication, providing a glittering backdrop for the night’s festivities.

Lavish international buffet

Taking charge of the evening’s proceedings was the charismatic Javed Bongso, whose expert compering kept the energy high. The musical heartbeat of the night was provided by the popular band Lunu Dehi, whose infectious performance immediately filled the dance floor. As the night progressed, DJ Harsha took over the decks, keeping the crowd moving with a seamless mix of floor-fillers.

Prizes and Pageantry

The gala was punctuated by moments of excitement and engagement. Beyond the music, guests participated in:

Multiple Raffle Draws: Featuring a variety of high-value prizes.

Interactive Games: Engaging the audience and adding a touch of playful competition.

Grand Giveaways: Ensuring many guests walked away with more than just memories.

A highlight of the evening was the prestigious crowning of the “Grand Kandyan Queen,” a moment of true pageantry that added a layer of classic glamour to the night’s program.

A Culinary Masterpiece

No celebration at The Grand Kandyan would be complete without a culinary showcase. Guests were treated to a lavish international buffet, specifically decorated for the occasion.

A Global Family Celebration

The Grand Kandyan hotel General Manager, . Thusith Samaraweera, remarked on how wonderful it was to see a vibrant mixture of local and foreign guests coming together. He noted that seeing everyone ushering in the New Year alongside the “Grand Kandyan family” was the perfect embodiment of the hotel’s spirit of hospitality.

The night concluded as a resounding success, marking the start of 2026 with style, spirit, and community.

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“Best International Hotel for Weddings” at Travel+Leisure India’s Best Awards 2025

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Saman Villa

Jetwing Saman Villas, part of Jetwing Luxury Reserves, has been awarded “Best International Hotel for Weddings” at the 14th edition of Travel+Leisure India & South Asia’s Best Awards, held on December 16, 2025, in New Delhi. This prestigious accolade celebrates the resort’s exceptional ability to create unforgettable wedding experiences, placing Sri Lanka firmly on the global map as a leading destination for romance.

The annual India’s Best Awards, driven by reader votes, honours excellence across the travel spectrum, from hotels and destinations to wellness retreats and culinary experiences. This year’s theme, “Passports to Possibility,” highlighted the transformative power of travel and brought together global hospitality leaders for an evening of recognition and inspiration.

Perched on a dramatic cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean, the 27-suite resort is Sri Lanka’s pioneering luxury boutique hotel and a haven for intimate celebrations. The property offers one of the most unique settings on the island: a garden on a rock surrounded by nothing but incredible ocean views. From pre-wedding rituals to gourmet receptions, the property specializes in intimate weddings that feel truly exclusive and deeply personal. Beyond the ceremony, Jetwing Saman Villas doubles as an idyllic honeymoon retreat, offering luxurious private-pool suites, indulgent spa rituals, and romantic dining experiences under starlit skies, making it the perfect beginning to a lifelong journey together.

“We are truly honoured to bring this recognition to Sri Lanka,” said Hashan Cooray, Director of Marketing and Development at Jetwing Hotels. “As the country’s first and leading boutique hotel, this award reinforces Sri Lanka’s true potential as a premier destination for romance and weddings.”

Farrel Blom, General Manager of Jetwing Saman Villas, added, “Weddings are deeply personal, and for us, it’s never just about one evening, but it’s about creating an experience that feels like home. Many couples stay with us for several days, allowing us to be part of their story. Seeing them return for holidays and hearing their heartfelt feedback is the greatest reward.”

With a legacy spanning over half a century in the tourism industry, Jetwing Hotels has established itself as a pioneer in curating unique experiences and offering the best of legendary Sri Lankan hospitality, with the values of passion, humility, tenacity, and the spirit of family being at its core. As a family-owned brand, Jetwing Hotels continues to be a leading advocate for sustainability and responsible tourism, with ongoing initiatives focused on community upliftment, environmental conservation, and resource efficiency. With over 35 properties across the island, the brand’s diverse portfolio includes a range of Luxury Reserves, Premium Hotels, Select Hotels, and Essentials, each offering a unique perspective on Sri Lanka’s rich cultural heritage and natural beauty.

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