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Musical ‘choon paan’bread trucks

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by Zinnara Ratnayake

For years, the sound of Beethoven meant bread in Sri Lanka. Now, years after the island’s mobile bread vendors disappeared, they’re being revived to help during the pandemic.

I was young when I first heard the music. It came from the earthen road outside where a man was selling bread from a tuk tuk. Unlike other colourful three-wheeled vehicles, the back of this one held a glass display cabinet piled high with neatly stacked baked goods. “It’s the choon paan man,” my father told me.

“Choon paan” loosely translates to “music bread” in Sinhala. During my childhood, the fresh-off-the-oven kimbula (“crocodile”) bun we bought from the choon paan man for evening tea gave me bliss. This beautifully fluffy, buttery, home-baked bun was sprinkled with sugar and twisted into a slender, crocodile-like shape. Half of it was for me, the other for my father.

Twice a day starting at 06:30, choon paan trucks would drive along the dusty path near the paddy fields of my family’s rural village in Kurunegala, 120km north-east of Colombo, selling loaves of bread. Early in the morning, the men circled the roads with fish buns and sausage rolls made at small bakeries. They reappeared in the afternoon around 16:00, bringing sweet buns for tea. Some were buttery, round-shaped buns dotted with raisins. Others were stuffed with jam or sprinkled with sugar.

For us growing up on the tropical island, Beethoven meant bread

For years, these small trucks all played the same, tinny recorded music. When I heard the faint hum of the breadman from a distance, I would run to the dusty path and call my father. Years later, during music classes in school, I realised that this familiar tune that we Sri Lankans just called “choon paan music” was actually Beethoven’s 1810 classic Für Elise.

So, how did this classical composition written in Austria come to symbolise fresh-baked confections in Sri Lanka?

When tuk tuks became increasingly popular in Sri Lanka in the early 2000s, many bakers used the three-wheeled vehicles to take their bun business on the road and sell to distant neighbourhoods and villages. This was also around the time when mobile phones became popular. Just as an ice cream truck’s jingle alerts residents that it’s approaching, these mobile bakers started playing their mobile phone’s ringtone through a horn speaker to let residents know the choon paan truck was near.

Of course, one of the most popular ringtones from the early 2000s was Beethoven’s iconic masterpiece, Für Elise. So, whenever people in Sri Lanka would hear it, we’d head out to wait for the “music bread” truck to arrive. Ever since, for us growing up on the tropical island, Beethoven meant bread.

After relocating to the city of Kandy for high school, I still heard Für Elise every day. Even when I was already late for class, with my school tie loosely hanging around my neck and my hair braided into two with white ribbons, I ran after the choon paan truck to catch it for morning fish buns. Stuffed with canned fish, spiced potato and chopped vegetables, they were a treat with a cup of piping-hot ginger tea.

Six years ago, I moved again, to Sri Lanka’s capital, Colombo. In the six years I’ve been here, I’ve seldom seen a choon paan truck nor heard the familiar tune I grew up with.

Sri Lanka’s famous music bread trucks have made a comeback, thanks to an unlikely reason: the coronavirus pandemic

According to Colombo-based baker Padmini Marasinghe, that’s because it has recently become much more fashionable – and even a status symbol – to be able to buy baked goods at a traditional bakery than to buy bread from a truck. As a result, Sri Lanka’s once-ubiquitous music bread trucks have now largely disappeared.

As Marasinghe explained, many urbanites were convinced that breads from chain bakeries were of better quality than those from mobile trucks. “But choon paan products are from home bakers. They are better than mass-produced food in large bakeries,” Marasinghe said.

She also added that people complained choon paan goods were too expensive given their small, mobile operation. “They reduced prices and curtailed the quality to make marginal profits. There was less filling in a fish bun or little butter in a kimbula bun, so they lost their clientele,” Marasinghe said.

Then in 2017, the former government banned loud music from mobile bakeries, which further led to their demise. Some trucks circled the roads without music but failed to make a profit. Without Beethoven notifying the neighbourhood that bread was coming, it seemed that residents wouldn’t rush to the street.

In recent years, cities and tourist towns have also seen a rise in home delivery services. “People would rather order fish buns from an upmarket bakery on Uber Eats” Marasinghe said. “This put choon paan out of business.”

Marasinghe admits that the idea of starting a choon paan truck had always seemed tempting to her, but by the time she started her small bakery in 2019, nearly all the bread trucks were gone.

Yet, in recent months, Sri Lanka’s famous music bread trucks have made a comeback, thanks to an unlikely reason: the coronavirus pandemic.

As the virus began sweeping across Asia, Sri Lanka imposed an island-wide curfew to slow its spread. The government ordered restaurants, bakeries and all “non-essential” businesses to close. Marasinghe had to shutter her business, too. Yet, the government did permit the door-to-door sales of baked goods.

Many of these mobile bakeries are now back on Sri Lanka’s streets, with residents listening for the familiar ringtone sounds of Für Elise

“With no way to salary my bakery staff, I decided to start a choon paan truck as home delivery of bakery products [was] termed an ‘essential service’,” she said.

Unable to find a tuk tuk, Marasinghe’s husband borrowed a friend’s mini lorry and turned it into a makeshift choon paan truck to operate in Hanwella, about 30km from Colombo. “We played Für Elise so it would send the message: the choon paan man is back!” Marasinghe said.

She is not alone. Many of these mobile bakeries are now back on Sri Lanka’s streets, with residents listening for the familiar ringtone sounds of Für Elise and rushing to their gates for loaves of bread. In fact, almost overnight, bakers dusted off their old choon paan trucks and created a delivery network of tuk tuk bread to ensure that housebound islanders could get their buns.

“They’ve found a new appreciation,” said Colombo-based journalist Amalini De Sayrah. “Perhaps we didn’t realise how valuable it was, but now stuck at home with no way to go out, people are realising the value of choon paan.”

Arul Kogilan, a physician volunteering as part of a Covid-19 prevention task force, appreciates the return of choon paan drivers as essential-service providers. “With bakery goods being delivered to their gates, people can stay home avoiding the risk,” he said. “But we need to acknowledge that they are putting themselves out there at risk for us.”

While the curfew was relaxed late last month, islanders are advised to stay home except for obligatory work.

Now that I’m sheltering in place back home where I grew up, at around 07:00 am every morning, I wake up to the sound of choon paan. The truck travels past our house as the rattling Fur Elise eventually fades into a vague hiss. When I get up, my father has already bought bread. In the late afternoon, when I hear Fur Elise from a distance, I cry out for my father.

It’s as though I’m young again, waiting for the classical ringtone and the simple joy of a sugar-sprinkled choon paan kimbula bun.

One half for me, the other for my father.



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The letter that revealed the man behind the legend

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As the world celebrates the 100th birthday of Sir David Attenborough, tributes continue to pour in from scientists, conservationists, filmmakers, and millions of admirers whose lives were shaped by the legendary natural historian’s work.

But among the many messages shared this week, one deeply personal reflection from renowned Sri Lankan-born scientist Dr. Ruchira Somaweera has captured the true essence of the man behind the iconic voice.

“We all have people we look up to and hope to be like one day,” Dr. Somaweera wrote in a moving tribute marking Attenborough’s centenary. “For me, one of those people has always been Sir David Attenborough.”

The story dates back to 2013, when a BBC⁠ documentary crew visited to explore Dr. Somaweera’s pioneering work on freshwater crocodiles for a potential wildlife series. Although his research ultimately did not make it into the final production, the encounter led to something far more meaningful.

Through members of the crew, Dr. Somaweera sent Attenborough a card expressing gratitude for the profound influence he had on three generations of his family.

“What I never expected,” he recalled, “was to receive a handwritten letter from him just two weeks later, thanking me for the kind words.”

For Dr. Somaweera, the gesture revealed something extraordinary about Attenborough — not merely the global icon known to billions, but a deeply gracious and humble human being who still took time to personally respond to admirers, despite decades of worldwide fame.

“It said so much about the man behind the legend,” he reflected.

That quiet act of kindness perhaps explains why Attenborough’s influence extends far beyond television screens. Across nearly eight decades, he has become not only the world’s most recognisable natural history broadcaster, but also one of the most trusted voices in science communication and conservation advocacy.

From Life on Earth to Planet Earth, Blue Planet and countless other landmark productions, Attenborough transformed the way humanity sees the natural world.

He brought remote rainforests, coral reefs, deserts, mountains, and deep oceans into living rooms around the globe, inspiring generations to care about ecosystems they might never physically encounter.

Few communicators have bridged science and emotion with such extraordinary power.

For Sri Lankan scientists and conservationists, Attenborough’s impact has been especially profound. Many grew up watching his documentaries, developing an early fascination with wildlife through his storytelling.

Dr. Somaweera’s own career reflects that inspiration. Widely respected for his work on crocodilians, reptiles, and conservation biology, he has become an internationally recognised scientist whose research has contributed significantly to understanding freshwater ecosystems and reptile conservation.

Yet even accomplished scientists, it seems, can remain awestruck by the people who first ignited their curiosity.

The timing of Dr. Somaweera’s tribute also resonates strongly, following recent screenings of Attenborough’s powerful documentary Ocean, including an exclusive showing hosted by Spa Ceylon⁠ at SCOPE Cinema.

In the film, Attenborough reflects on humanity’s relationship with the sea with a sense of urgency sharpened by a lifetime of observation.

“After living for nearly 100 years on this planet,” he says, “I now understand the most important place on Earth is not on land, but at sea.”

The documentary explores the astonishing biodiversity of oceans while warning against destructive practices, such as industrial bottom trawling, climate change, and marine habitat destruction. But even amid alarming realities, Attenborough continues to offer hope grounded in science and collective action.

That enduring optimism may be one reason why his influence spans generations.

“Happy 100th birthday to a true giant of science communication, storytelling and conservation advocacy,” Dr. Somaweera wrote in his tribute. “The impact you have had on the world, and on countless young minds, is immeasurable.”

Indeed, for millions around the world, Attenborough’s voice became synonymous with wonder itself.

He taught humanity that the planet is not merely scenery, but a living system of intricate relationships — forests breathing for oceans, coral reefs feeding fisheries, plankton generating oxygen, predators maintaining balance, and every species playing a role in the fragile architecture of life.

At 100, Sir David Attenborough remains more than a broadcaster.

He is a witness to a changing planet. A storyteller for the natural world. And for many scientists like Dr. Ruchira Somaweera, a lifelong inspiration whose greatest legacy may lie not only in the documentaries he created, but in the curiosity, compassion, and responsibility he awakened in others.

By Ifham Nizam

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Two hearts, one ocean

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At the press conference hosted by Manipal Hospitals at Kingsbury Hotel, where the historic Sri Lanka-India Ocean Water Swim was unveiled, spotlighting endurance and cross border unity

The first Lanka-India swim by a couple

Bengali couple,Vrushali Prasade and Danish Abdi, created history by undertaking the first ever Sri Lanka-India Ocean Water Swim, reflecting not only athlete excellence and endurance but also the deep rooted cultural and historical connection between India and Sri Lanka.

Sharing their thoughts, before the event, Vrushali Prasade and Danish Abdi expressed enthusiasm about their challenges. “We are excited to take this unique expedition and are proud to align it with a message of health and wellness. This expedition stands as a powerful symbol of unity.

The first even Sri Lanka-India Ocean Water Swim, presented by Manipal Hospitals, is not just another event, it is a bold endurance crossing of geography, grit and shared history between Sri Lanka and India.

This message was unfolded at a press conference held at the Kingsbury Hotel, before the event, by the officials of the giant Manipal Hospitals. The spotlight, however, firmly rested on the two swimmers, a couple, who brought this vision to life.

Vrushali Prasade and her husband Danish Abdi, in their 30s from Bengal are working in the IT industry. They learnt swimming only about four years ago, after first taking to waters during a holiday in the Maldives. The Island met them before their historic attempt.

Poised yet quietly determined, the swimmers embodied the spirit of the challenges ahead, At the press conference they spoke on true discipline, preparations and mental strength required to take on such a historic crossing.

Manipal Hospitals, India’s largest Pan Multi Speciality Hospital, are the main sponsors , symbolically connecting the two nations, India and Sri Lanka, through sport, healthcare and shared ambition.

The couple had previously swam the Indian Ocean as part of the rally but the recent Indian Ocean swim is their first solo couple effort and the longest. They were assisted by multiple boats, alongside paramedics and coast guards.

The Chief Operating Officer, Manipal Health Enterprise Karthik Rajagopal said this historic swim reflects not only athlete excellence and endurance, but also the deep rooted cultural and historical connection between the two countries, The swimmers Vrushali and Danish Abdi said, before the event: ” Swimming is for all ages whether you are a kid or a matured person, it is never too late to start for any age group. When asked about their challenges of undertaking such a historic feat, they said. “The Palk Strait is no gentle stretch of water, its currents are unpredictable, its tides restless . Unlike the the controlled calm of a swimming pool, the sea offers no guarantee, one moment they may bring a steady rhythm, the next, a surge that breaks it entirely. But we are excited to take on this unique expedition and proud to resonate the message of health and wellness to the world’

Fatigue, inevitably becomes a companion and also long hours in open water test not just muscle strength but mental resilience. Jellyfish often drift with currents making the calm swim into a painful endurance test.

“With limited visibility, we can suddenly brush against tentacles, turning a steady rhythm into a moment of sharp pain. In the vast unpredictability of the ocean, we have to chose whatever the sea offers.”

Vrushali Prasade and Danish Abdi: The young Bengali couple who conquered the ocean

They also said the route across the Palk Strait is deceptively complex. Though relatively shallow, those waters are known for shifting currents, strong tidal pulls and unpredictable winds. We cannot rely on a straight path, we move guided by pilots on escort boats who constantly adjust the direction based on the sea conditions. Then we have the unpredictability of the sea itself. Floating debris, sudden weather shifts and there is no wall to hold onto, no pause button only the rhythm of our stroke and breath. Vrushali and Danish expressed enthusiasm about these challenges . We are very excited to overcome all these challenges.’

‘Our decision, however, to take on the challenging stretch across the Palk strait is rooted in more than a personal achievement, said the couple. They spoke of the partnership aspect of the swim calling it both their biggest strength and unique challenge.

Behind the drama of the sea and the determination of the swimmers, lies a quieter crucial force,the medical backbone. As title sponsor, Manipal Hospitals was not merely lending its name to this event. They actively shaped the safety framework that make such a ambitious feat possible.

Manipal Hospitals is the largest Pan India Speciality Hospital network by bed capacity, boasting over 12,300. It is known for its expert medical expertise multi speciality care and commitment to patient centric care and also well connected to Sri Lanka’s medical and patient community especially for spine and oncology services.

Medical teams were stationed on escort boats equipped to respond instantly to issues ranging from hydration and hypothermia to jellyfish stings or muscle cramps. All in all the hospital’s participation underscores a broader message, promoting health, endurance sports and cross border collaboration.

In the end what the couple did places them in the same conversation as some of the world’s most daring open water swimmers, those who have conquered icy channels relentless tides and vast strong winds.

As the couple moved through the waters of the Palk Strait, their journey becomes a powerful metaphor for the relationship between Sri Lanka and India, two neighbours bound by history, culture and shared oceans. It is a quiet but powerful gesture of goodwill, reminding that while seas may separate lands, they can also bring them together.

By Zanita Careem

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Galle Face Hotel introduces “La Sérénité”

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Young invitees bringing new energy and elegance

Limited-Time Saturday Brunch at 1864 Limited Edition

The spirit of leisurely weekend dining came alive recently as La Sérénité Saturday Brunch unfolded in elegant style at 1864 Limited Edition at the iconic Galle Face Hotel.Set against the timeless charm of Colombo’s most historic seaside hotel. guests were treated to an indulgent culinary afternoon where sophistication, flavour and oceanfront glamour blended seamlessly.

The heritage charm of Galle Face Hotel, with its polished floors, high ceilings and whisper of history, created a backdrop that is both grand and intimate.Within this setting the brunch emerges not just as a culinary offering but as a carefully orchestrated experience. At the heart of this orchestration was the vision of the General Manager Suresh Abbas. A veteran in the hotel industry, under his leadership, the culinary team delivered a menu for selected invitees, a menu that balanced European finess with contemporary flair .

From gourmet seafood and international delicacies to locally inspired creations and decadent desserts, the spread offered a luxurious journey for discerning brunch lovers.

The GM’s influence is most visible in the intangible details, The curated menu, personalised service and elegant ambience all echoed the hotel’s dedication to offering memorable gastronic experience.The brunch remained international in character while still grounded in place.

La Sérénité, a thoughtfully conceived brunch experience, at 1864 Limited Edition, brings together a sense of calm, continuity, and culinary storytelling within one of the city’s most enduring landmarks.

Set against the pace of a restless world, La Sérénité is designed as a quiet counterpoint, an invitation to pause, to gather, and to ease into the weekend with intention. Since 1864, Galle Face Hotel has existed within this paradox, offering a sense of stillness and reassurance even as the world around it has continually evolved. This brunch extends that legacy, creating a space where time softens, conversation flows unhurriedly, and presence takes precedence.

At its core, La Sérénité is not only about the experience of slowing down, but also about the stories we return to through food. The menu is conceived as a subtle journey through culinary history, drawing from moments across continents and generations, where dishes have been shaped by instinct, refinement, and time.

There is a quiet familiarity in this approach. Classics are not reimagined for novelty, but carefully refined, preserving their essence while elevating their form. The experience moves between contrast and balance, simplicity and indulgence, tradition and gentle reinterpretation. In doing so, it offers something both recognised and rediscovered.

In this way, La Sérénité becomes more than a brunch. It is a curated timeline of taste, an experience that brings together memory, familiarity, and thoughtful refinement within a setting that invites calm.

Presented as a limited-time experience, La Sérénité commenced on 2nd May and takes place every Saturday at 1864 Limited Edition.

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