Features
Walpolamulla trail in the Knuckles range
Walpolamulla was a village hidden deep within the Knuckles Rainforest. Nearby village is Ethanwala which is about five kilometres away through the forest and the Office of the Wildlife Department is located there. Today, Walpolamulla village no longer exists except one family running a small campsite on their land. The village was relocated outside the forest around 25 years ago. Some moved to Ethanwala, while others settled in villages like Mahalakotuwa, Ratninda, and Narangamuwa.
Walpolamulla was a very prosperous village. Its paddy fields were extremely fertile. The sun rose over the Kalupahana mountain. The area had many streams and a tank. The village never lacked rice, vegetables, or fruits. Every house had fruit-bearing trees like oranges, limes, and mangoes and was complete with a traditional rice storage shed. It was a self-sufficient village where people lived with minimal needs. For them, walking 16 kilometres was as easy as a game; they walked to Ethanwela school every day and it took only thirty minutes to complete the journey. The villagers were very healthy; instead of chewing betel, they chewed Miristhala leaves. Diseases like flu or tooth decay were non-existent. Their food was free from toxins—simple meals of rice, greens, and occasionally wild meat or fish.
They could find various wild yams, jackfruit, breadfruit, turmeric, and pulses like Thumba Karavila. The entire area around the village was covered in dense primary forest. Wild animals like elephants, leopards, bears, sambars, and wild boar lived there, along with porcupines, pangolins, civets, mongooses, and a wide variety of birds and butterflies. Trees like Galkesel, Gal Siyambala, Malaboda, Etamba, Milla, Kahamilla, Thimbiri, Balukeena, and Keena surrounded the area and various timber producing trees. Black pepper was cultivated as an undergrowth crop. The pepper grown there was pungent and of high quality. The Veddas used this pepper.
Ginikeliya is a cattle trapping area on a hillock, where cattle were released and trapped with a single sturdy gate. This area, surrounded by rocky terrain, acts as a natural enclosure. Whenever needed, people would go and retrieve the cattle. Covering about ten acres, Ginikeliya had no thorny bushes due to cattle grazing. The spot was beautiful, with fresh water streams, ideal for the cattle to eat and drink peacefully until the next cultivation season. Also, one can have a panoramic view of the surrounding area from the hilltop.
During the harvesting season, or when protecting the fields from wild animals, the men would venture into the forest and collect honey, kirivel bark, batapothu (a resin), various types of cane, kithul sap (used to make jaggery), herbal medicines, and aromatic oils. These were carefully stored. If you poured crushed cane juice into the stream, the fish would become intoxicated and float to the surface—this method worked especially well in the Heenganga river, which flowed below the village. In the shallow waters of Heenganga, aquatic fauna like inland prawns could be seen inside the leaf litter.
Outdoor activities were limited during the monsoon season. The overflowing streams made the forest dangerous. Duwili Ella waterfall could be seen from a distance. During the rainy season, villagers would take out their stored forest goods and productions to the market, and they included mats, baskets, containers woven from palm leaves, rattan, and bamboo.
Disappearing of Walolamulla Village
Conservation laws related to the Knuckles Forest Reserve disrupted the villagers’ peaceful way of life and their ancestral lands. Then came the elephant invasions caused by the Kalu Ganga project and Moragahakanda development programme. Elephants, driven up the mountains, destroyed the villagers’ crops and homes. Some villagers even lost their lives in elephant attacks. Gradually, people abandoned the village. Eventually, only about 15 people remained, led by a respected elder named Kapilarathna Mama. But one day, near the upper mountain of the Walpolamulla reservoir, he was attacked by a wild elephant. Thereafter, the last few residents also left the village for good and protection.
Historical Perspective
During colonial times, a wide eight-foot footpath was built from Riverston, passing through Ratninda, Malkirigoda, and Manigala which is huge rock, crossing Heenganga, with stone bridges and shoe crossings. Today, ruins of that road can still be seen. It passes through villages like Ethanwala, Walpolamulla, and Veddahena. Eventually, it reaches a former tea estate, subsequently converted into a coconut plantation which is abandoned now. The trail to Duwili Ella falls through this coconut estate. A few old coconut trees still stand, though most others were likely destroyed by elephants.
Among the villages along this route, the first to vanish was the coconut estate, followed by the road itself being overtaken by the forest. Then Veddahena village, located at the lower end of the slope, disappeared. Finally, only Walpolamulla village was left, and that too is now disappearing, with only a single family remaining. The only existent village is Ethanwala, which is the gateway to the forest reserve, located between Manigala and the Telgamu Oya. But it is prone to landslides. Cracks four to five inches wide have appeared on the walls of houses. The Geological Survey and Mines Bureau has warned that the village should be relocated.
One person has stayed back—Agararathna, who lives in his ancestral home in Walpolamulla. The Forest Department does not object because his house has become a valuable rest stop for forest trekkers—a kind of jungle lodge. With the Forest Department having established a ticket counter at the base of Manigala and trained guides now operating legally under the Tourism Authority, this unique jungle home is likely to last long.
Trekking
Trekking activities are increasing. Manigala and Walpolamulla have become world famous treks. Villagers work as guides and earn a reasonable income. The area is fast developing with an increase in the arrival of foreign and local tourists mainly for adventure hiking. Salubrious climate and the beautiful view encourage the tourists for more and more attractions. But all these achievements were gained mainly by the enthusiasts and the general public and state assistance is minimal. Villagers are facing difficulties. They are not allowed to release cattle to the grasslands in the forest or to catch a fish in a tank have done so for generations. The government should find ways and means of promoting tourism while conserving the environment. The credit for our wonderful trek must go to professional hiker Major Ivor Jayasundara, who is eager to explore untouched landscapes and expose these areas to enthusiasts and help promote Sri Lanka as a tourist attraction.
by Lt Col. Chandana Weerakoon ✍️
Photography by Major Ivor Jayasundara
Features
Cricket and the National Interest
The appointment of former minister Eran Wickremaratne to chair the Sri Lanka Cricket Transformation Committee is significant for more than the future of cricket. It signals a possible shift in the culture of governance even as it offers Sri Lankan cricket a fighting possibility to get out of the doldrums of failure. There have been glorious patches for the national cricket team since the epochal 1996 World Cup triumph. But these patches of brightness have been few and far between and virtually non-existent over the past decade. At the centre of this disaster has been the failures of governance within Sri Lanka Cricket which are not unlike the larger failures of governance within the country itself. The appointment of a new reform oriented committee therefore carries significance beyond cricket. It reflects the wider challenge facing the country which is to restore trust in public institutions for better management.
The appointment of Eran Wickremaratne brings a professional administrator with a proven track record into the cricket arena. He has several strengths that many of his immediate predecessors lacked. Before the ascent of the present government leadership to positions of power, Eran Wickremaratne was among the handful of government ministers who did not have allegations of corruption attached to their names. His reputation for financial professionalism and integrity has remained intact over many years in public life. With him in the Cricket Transformation Committee are also respected former cricketers Kumar Sangakkara, Roshan Mahanama and Sidath Wettimuny together with professionals from legal and business backgrounds. They have been tasked with introducing structural reforms and improving transparency and accountability within cricket administration.
A second reason for this appointment to be significant is that this is possibly the first occasion on which the NPP government has reached out to someone associated with the opposition to obtain assistance in an area of national importance. The commitment to bipartisanship has been a constant demand from politically non-partisan civic groups and political analysts. They have voiced the opinion that the government needs to be more inclusive in its choice of appointments to decision making authorities. The NPP government’s practice so far has largely been to limit appointments to those within the ruling party or those considered loyalists even at the cost of proven expertise. The government’s decision in this case therefore marks a potentially important departure.
National Interest
There are areas of public life where national interest should transcend party divisions and cricket, beloved of the people, is one of them. Sri Lanka cannot afford to continue treating every institution as an arena for political competition when institutions themselves are in crisis and public confidence has become fragile. It is therefore unfortunate that when the government has moved positively in the direction of drawing on expertise from outside its own ranks there should be a negative response from sections of the opposition. This is indicative of the absence of a culture of bipartisanship even on issues that concern the national interest. The SJB, of which the newly appointed cricket committee chairman was a member objected on the grounds that politicians should not hold positions in sports administration and asked him to resign from the party. There is a need to recognise the distinction between partisan political control and the temporary use of experienced administrators to carry out reform and institutional restructuring. In other countries those in politics often join academia and civil society on a temporary basis and vice versa.
More disturbing has been the insidious campaign carried out against the new cricket committee and its chairman on the grounds of religious affiliation. This is an unacceptable denial of the reality that Sri Lanka is a plural, multi ethnic and multi religious society. The interim committee reflects this diversity to a reasonable extent. The country’s long history of ethnic conflict should have taught all political actors the dangers of mobilising communal prejudice for short term political gain. Sri Lanka paid a very heavy price for decades of mistrust and division. It would be tragic if even cricket administration became another arena for communal suspicion and hostility. The present government represents an important departure from the sectarian rhetoric that was employed by previous governments. They have repeatedly pledged to protect the equal rights of all citizens and not permit discrimination or extremism in any form.
The recent international peace march in Sri Lanka led by the Venerable Bhikkhu Thich Paññākāra from Vietnam with its message of loving kindness and mindfulness to all resonated strongly with the masses of people as seen by the crowds who thronged the roadsides to obtain blessings and show respect. This message stands in contrast to the sectarian resentment manifested by those who seek to use the cricket appointments as a weapon to attack the government at the present time. The challenges before the Sri Lanka Cricket Transformation Committee parallel the larger challenges before the government in developing the national economy and respecting ethnic and religious diversity. Plugging the leaks and restoring systems will take time and effort. It cannot be done overnight and it cannot succeed without public patience and support.
New Recognition
There is also a need for realism. The appointment of Eran Wickremaratne and the new committee does not guarantee success. Reforming deeply flawed institutions is always difficult. Besides, Sri Lanka is a small country with a relatively small population compared to many other cricket playing nations. It is also a country still recovering from the economic breakdown of 2022 which pushed the majority of people into hardship and severely weakened public institutions. The country continues to face unprecedented challenges including the damage caused by Cyclone Ditwah and the wider global economic uncertainties linked to conflict in the Middle East. Under these difficult circumstances Sri Lanka has fewer resources than many larger countries to devote to both cricket and economic development.
When resources are scarce they cannot be wasted through corruption or incompetence. Drawing upon the strengths of all those who are competent for the tasks at hand regardless of party affiliation or ethnic or religious identity is necessary if improvement is to come sooner rather than later. The burden of rebuilding the country cannot rest only on the government. The crisis facing the country is too deep for any single party or government to solve alone. National recovery requires capable individuals from across society and from different sectors such as business and civil society to work together in areas where the national interest transcends party politics. There is also a responsibility on opposition political parties to support initiatives that are politically neutral and genuinely in the national interest. Not every issue needs to become a partisan battle.
Sri Lanka cricket occupies a special place in the national consciousness. At its best it once united the country and gave Sri Lankans a sense of pride and international recognition. Restoring integrity and professionalism to cricket administration can therefore become part of the larger task of national renewal. The appointment of Eran Wickremaratne and the new committee, while it does not guarantee success, is a sign that the political leadership and people of the country may be beginning to mature in their approach to governance. In recognising the need for competence, integrity and bipartisan cooperation and extending it beyond cricket into other areas of national life, Sri Lanka may find the way towards more stable and successful governance..
by Jehan Perera
Features
From Dhaka to Sri Lanka, three wheels that drive our economies
Court vacation this year came with an unexpected lesson, not from a courtroom but from the streets of Dhaka — a city that moves, quite literally, on three wheels.
Above the traffic, a modern metro line glides past concrete pillars and crowded rooftops. It is efficient, clean and frequently cited as a symbol of progress in Bangladesh. For a visitor from Sri Lanka, it inevitably brings to mind our own abandoned light rail plans — a project debated, politicised and ultimately set aside.
But Dhaka’s real story is not in the air. It is on the ground.
Beneath the elevated tracks, the streets belong to three-wheelers. Known locally as CNGs, they cluster at junctions, line the edges of markets and pour into narrow roads that larger vehicles avoid. Even with a functioning rail system, these three-wheelers remain the city’s most dependable form of everyday transport.
Within hours of arriving, their importance becomes obvious. The train may take you across the city, but the journey does not end there. The last mile — often the most complicated part — belongs entirely to the three-wheeler. It is the vehicle that gets you home, to a meeting or simply through streets that no bus route properly serves.
There is a rhythm to using them. A destination is mentioned, a price is suggested and a brief negotiation follows. Then the ride begins, edging into traffic that feels permanently compressed. Drivers move with instinct, adjusting routes and squeezing through gaps with a confidence built over years.
It is not polished. But it works.
And that is where the comparison with Sri Lanka becomes less about what we lack and more about what we already have.
Back home, the three-wheeler has long been part of daily life — so familiar that it is often discussed only in terms of its problems. There are frequent complaints about fares, refusals or the absence of meters. More recently, the industry itself has become entangled in politics — from fuel subsidies to regulatory debates, from election-time promises to periodic crackdowns.
In that process, the conversation has shifted. The three-wheeler is often treated as a problem to be managed, rather than a service to be strengthened.
Yet, seen through the experience of Dhaka, Sri Lanka’s system begins to look far more settled — and, in many ways, ahead.
There is a growing structure in place. Meters, while not perfect, are widely recognised. Ride-hailing apps have added transparency and reduced uncertainty for passengers. There are clearer expectations on both sides — driver and commuter alike. Even small details, such as designated parking areas in parts of Colombo or the increasing standard of vehicles, point to an industry slowly moving towards professionalism.
Just as importantly, there is a human element that remains intact.
In Sri Lanka, a three-wheeler ride is rarely just a transaction. Drivers talk. They offer directions, comment on the day’s news, or share local knowledge. The ride becomes part of the social fabric, not just a means of getting from one point to another.
In Dhaka, the scale of the city leaves less room for that. The interaction is quicker, more direct, shaped by urgency. The service is essential, but it is under constant pressure.
What stands out, across both countries, is that the three-wheeler is not a temporary or outdated mode of transport. It is a necessity in dense, fast-growing Asian cities — one that fills gaps no rail or bus system can fully address.
Large infrastructure projects, like light rail, are important. They bring efficiency and long-term capacity. But they cannot replace the flexibility of a three-wheeler. They cannot reach into narrow streets, respond instantly to demand or provide that crucial last-mile connection.
That is why, even in a city that has invested heavily in modern rail, Dhaka still runs on three wheels.
For Sri Lanka, the lesson is not simply about what could have been built, but about what should be better managed and valued.
The three-wheeler industry does not need to be politicised at every turn. It needs steady regulation — clear fare systems, proper licensing, safety standards — alongside encouragement and recognition. It needs to be seen as part of the solution to urban transport, not as a side issue.
Because for thousands of drivers, it is a livelihood. And for millions of passengers, it is the most immediate and reliable form of mobility.
The tuk-tuk may not feature in grand policy speeches or infrastructure blueprints. It does not run on elevated tracks or attract international attention. But on the ground, where daily life unfolds, it continues to do what larger systems often struggle to do — show up, adapt and keep moving.
And after watching Dhaka’s streets — crowded, relentless, yet functioning — that small, three-wheeled vehicle feels less like something to argue over and more like something to get right.
(The writer is an Attorney-at-Law with over a decade of experience specialising in civil law, a former Board Member of the Office of Missing Persons and a former Legal Director of the Central Cultural Fund. He holds an LLM in International Business Law)
by Sampath Perera recently in Dhaka, Bangladesh
Features
Dubai scene … opening up
According to reports coming my way, the entertainment scene, in Dubai, is very much opening up, and buzzing again!
After a quieter few months, May is packed with entertainment and the whole scene, they say, is shifting back into full swing.
The Seven Notes band, made up of Sri Lankans, based in Dubai, are back in the spotlight, after a short hiatus, due to the ongoing Middle East problems.
On 18th April they did Legends Night at Mercure Hotel Dubai Barsha Heights; on Thursday, 9th May, they will be at the Sports Bar of the Mercure Hotel for 70s/80s Retro Night; on 6th June, they will be at Al Jadaf Dubai to provide the music for Sandun Perera live in concert … and with more dates to follow.
These events are expected to showcase the band’s evolving sound, tighter stage coordination, and stronger audience engagement.
With each performance, the band aims to refine its identity and build a loyal following within Dubai’s vibrant nightlife and event scene.

Pasindu Umayanga: The group’s new vocalist
What makes Seven Notes standout is their versatility which has made the band a dynamic and promising act.
With a growing performance calendar, new talent integration, and international ambitions, the band is definitely entering a defining phase of its journey.
Dubai’s music industry, I’m told, thrives on diversity, energy, and audience connection, with live bands playing a crucial role in elevating events—from corporate shows to private concerts. Against this backdrop, Seven Notes is positioning itself not just as another band, but as a performance-driven musical unit focused on consistency and growth.
Adding fresh momentum to the group is Pasindu Umayanga who joins Seven Notes as their new vocalist. This move signals a strategic upgrade—not just filling a role, but strengthening the band’s front-line presence.
Looking beyond local stages, Seven Notes is preparing for an international tour, to Korea, in July.

Bassist Niluk Uswaththa: Spokesperson for Seven Notes
According to bassist Niluk Uswaththa, taking a band abroad means: Your sound must hold up against unfamiliar audiences, your performance must translate beyond language, and your discipline must be at a professional level.
“If executed well, this tour could redefine Seven Notes from a local band into an emerging international act,” added Niluk.
He went on to say that Dubai is not an easy market. It’s saturated with highly experienced, multi-genre bands that can adapt instantly to any crowd.
“To stand out consistently you need to have tight rehearsal discipline, unique sound identity (not just covers), strong stage chemistry, audience retention – not just applause.”
No doubt, Seven Notes is entering a critical growth phase—new member, multiple shows, and an international tour on the horizon. The opportunity is real, but so is the pressure.
However, there is talk that Seven Notes will soon be a recognised name in the regional music scene.
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