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The Timeless Bloom: How Sri Lanka’s Horton Plains awaken every 12 Years

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Pathway through blooming Nelu shrubs at Thotupola Kanda, Horton Plains

The Valley in Bloom

The air is crisp and thin atop Horton Plains, the morning mist curling like breath over the rolling patanas. Then, as the rising sun pierces the haze, the landscape begins to shimmer—waves of mauve and violet unfurl across the slopes, as though the earth itself has exhaled after a dozen years of silence. Bees hum in the stillness. A sambar deer lifts its head, framed by the purple blaze. After 12 long years, the Nilu has returned.

This is 2025, and Sri Lanka’s highlands are once again transformed by the mass flowering of Strobilanthes, locally called

Nilu.” It is an event so rare and rhythmic that few living people have witnessed it more than twice in their lifetime. For those who stand here today—among the rippling blossoms, where clouds cast fleeting shadows across mauve hillsides—it feels as though time itself blooms with the flowers.

Tracing the Bloom Through Time

I first stood amid this botanical tide in 2013, camera in hand, the Horton Plains veiled in violet light. Even then, I sensed that I was witnessing something larger than beauty—a heartbeat of the land, one that pulses only every 12 years. Digging deeper, I discovered that I was not alone in this fascination. In 1910, British planter and naturalist

Thomas Farr, who built the original Farr Bungalow” at Horton Plains, wrote of this same miracle in meticulous detail.

Farr documented the great flowerings of 1881, 1893, and 1905, and confidently predicted the next in 1917. His forecast proved astonishingly accurate. Since then, the blooms have recurred with unwavering regularity: 1929, 1941, 1953, 1965, 1977, 1989, 2001, 2013, and now—true to the century-long rhythm—2025.

During my own field visits, I uncovered fragments of local memory and tangible evidence: Mr. Perera of Ohiya spoke of the 2001 bloom with reverence, recalling how the hills turned purple overnight. My 2013 documentation added another link in the chain—a living continuation of Farr’s cycle, now spanning more than 140 years.

This year’s spectacle not only confirms Farr’s observations; it validates nature’s astonishing precision. Across the plateau, the Nilu has kept time better than any clock we could build.

The Plant That Waits a Dozen Years

The Nilu belongs to the genus Strobilanthes—a group of tropical shrubs and herbs known for a peculiar rhythm: synchronous, gregarious flowering followed by death. Botanists describe it as monocarpic, meaning each plant flowers only once in its lifetime. For 12 years, these unassuming green bushes quietly photosynthesize, storing energy for one single, all-consuming act of reproduction. Then, in a matter of weeks, they burst into bloom, release millions of seeds, and die—blanketing the forest floor in their faded remains.

Among Horton Plains’ many species,

Strobilanthes sexennis stands tall, reaching up to 30 feet, its mauve blossoms painting the valleys in ethereal tones.

The pink-flowered

S. pulcherrimus and pale S. viscosus join the chorus, blending hues of heliotrope, lilac, and white. Together, they transform the undergrowth into a living tapestry, what Farr once described as like fairy lands, as though veils of transparent gauze were draped through and about the Nilu stems.”

Echoes of 1910: When Nature Moved as One

Farr’s century-old prose captures the ecological choreography of this phenomenon with astonishing acuity. In his 1910 essay The Inflorescence of the Nilu (Strobilanthes), he wrote of Bambara bees swarming from the lowlands, drawn by instinct and the scent of nectar. He observed elephants retreating from the stinging clouds of bees,

sambar deer returning to graze the newly opened glades, and leopards following in their wake. Even jungle-fowl and pigeons, Farr noted, migrated toward the flowering zones to feast on the bounty of seeds—a trek,” he called it, that rippled through the web of life.

Today, many of those players remain—though elephants no longer roam these uplands. Modern ecology now explains what Farr could only marvel at: the Nilu flowering acts as a trophic pulse, a sudden surge of energy cascading through the ecosystem. The explosion of nectar feeds pollinators; the seed rain sustains rodents and birds; predators thrive on the abundance. Then, as the plants die, sunlight reaches the soil, allowing a new generation to sprout—a cycle of death and renewal, written in the DNA of the hills.

Nature

s Calendar

The regularity of this rhythm—every 12 years without fail—is one of nature’s most exquisite mysteries. The timeline now reads like a biological chronicle of Sri Lanka’s highlands:

1881, 1893, 1905, 1917, 1929, 1941, 1953, 1965, 1977, 1989, 2001, 2013, 2025.

Each date marks not just a flowering, but a fleeting convergence—of generations, species, and human witnesses. Farr saw the first three. I have seen the last two. The next, in 2037, will bloom for another generation—perhaps observed by those who read these words today.

Kin Across the Sea

Across the Palk Strait, in India’s Western Ghats, the famed Neelakurinji (Strobilanthes kunthiana) follows the same 12-year rhythm, cloaking the Nilgiri Hills in lavender-blue. To gether, these cousins tell a story that transcends borders: of evolutionary adaptation, of resilience in montane habitats, and of the quiet synchrony that unites distant ecosystems across time.

A Bloom Worth Protecting

As throngs of visitors now trek to Horton Plains to witness the Nilu, the challenge lies in balancing wonder with responsibility. Overcrowding, trampling, and litter threaten the very ecosystems that nurture this miracle. Scientists warn that climate change—altering rainfall, temperature, and pollinator behaviour—could disrupt the Nilu’s inner clock. If so, the 2037 bloom might not come on schedule.

The Nilu is more than a tourist attraction; it is a living clock of climate, a barometer of ecological health. Protecting its rhythm means safeguarding the integrity of Horton Plains itself—its soils, forests, pollinators, and every invisible thread that ties them together.

The Long Patience of the Hills

Standing here in 2025, surrounded by the mauve sea of blossoms, I think of Farr in 1910, penning his notes by lamplight at the old Farr Bungalow. I imagine his bees swarming, his deer returning, his awe no different from mine. Between us stretch 144 years—yet the same bloom, the same rhythm, the same pulse.

The Nilu teaches patience. It reminds us that some miracles unfold not in days, but in decades—that the earth keeps its own calendar, immune to human haste. To witness it is to step briefly into nature’s time, where 12 years are but a breath, and beauty, like memory, always returns.

As the mauve hills fade back to green, and another 12-year silence begins, one can only hope that when the Nilu blooms again in 2037, the world will still be listening.

(Dilum Alagiyawanna is a telecommunications engineer turned environmental and wildlife conservationist and citizen scientist, as well as a documentary filmmaker, focused on wildlife. His core focus lies in driving policy-level changes needed to strengthen environmental and wildlife conservation in Sri Lanka. He can be reached at dilum.alagiyawanna@gmail.com.)

By Dilum Alagiyawanna



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Features

Cyclones, greed and philosophy for a new world order

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Floods caused by Cyclone Ditwah in Sri Lanka

Further to my earlier letter titled, “Psychology of Greed and Philosophy for a New World Order” (The Island 26.11.2025) it may not be far-fetched to say that the cause of the devastating cyclones that hit Sri Lanka and Indonesia last week could be traced back to human greed. Cyclones of this magnitude are said to be unusual in the equatorial region but, according to experts, the raised sea surface temperatures created the conditions for their occurrence. This is directly due to global warming which is caused by excessive emission of Greenhouse gases due to burning of fossil fuels and other activities. These activities cannot be brought under control as the rich, greedy Western powers do not want to abide by the terms and conditions agreed upon at the Paris Agreement of 2015, as was seen at the COP30 meeting in Brazil recently. Is there hope for third world countries? This is why the Global South must develop a New World Order. For this purpose, the proposed contentment/sufficiency philosophy based on morals like dhana, seela, bhavana, may provide the necessary foundation.

Further, such a philosophy need not be parochial and isolationist. It may not be  necessary to adopt systems that existed in the past that suited the times but develop a system that would be practical and also pragmatic in the context of the modern world.

It must be reiterated that without controlling the force of collective greed the present destructive socioeconomic system cannot be changed. Hence the need for a philosophy that incorporates the means of controlling greed. Dhana, seela, bhavana may suit Sri Lanka and most of the East which, as mentioned in my earlier letter, share a similar philosophical heritage. The rest of the world also may have to adopt a contentment / sufficiency philosophy with  strong and effective tenets that suit their culture, to bring under control the evil of greed. If not, there is no hope for the existence of the world. Global warming will destroy it with cyclones, forest fires, droughts, floods, crop failure and famine.

Leading economists had commented on the damaging effect of greed on the economy while philosophers, ancient as well as modern, had spoken about its degenerating influence on the inborn human morals. Ancient philosophers like Plato, Aristotle, and Epicurus all spoke about greed, viewing it as a destructive force that hindered a good life. They believed greed was rooted in personal immorality and prevented individuals from achieving true happiness by focusing on endless material accumulation rather than the limited wealth needed for natural needs.

Jeffry Sachs argues that greed is a destructive force that undermines social and environmental well-being, citing it as a major driver of climate change and economic inequality, referencing the ideas of Adam Smith, John Maynard Keynes, etc. Joseph Stiglitz, a Nobel Laureate economist, has criticised neoliberal ideology in similar terms.

In my earlier letter, I have discussed how contentment / sufficiency philosophy could effectively transform the socioeconomic system to one that prioritises collective well-being and sufficiency over rampant consumerism and greed, potentially leading to more sustainable economic models.

Obviously, these changes cannot be brought about without a change of attitude, morals and commitment of the rulers and the government. This cannot be achieved without a mass movement; people must realise the need for change. Such a movement would need  leadership. In this regard a critical responsibility lies with the educated middle class. It is they who must give leadership to the movement that would have the goal of getting rid of the evil of excessive greed. It is they who must educate the entire nation about the need for these changes.

The middle class would be the vanguard of change. It is the middle class that has the capacity to bring about change. It is the middle class that perform as a vibrant component of the society for political stability. It is the group which supplies political philosophy, ideology, movements, guidance and leaders for the rest of the society. The poor, who are the majority, need the political wisdom and leadership of the middle class.

Further, the middle class is the font of culture, creativity, literature, art and music. Thinkers, writers, artistes, musicians are fostered by the middle class. Cultural activity of the middle class could pervade down to the poor groups and have an effect on their cultural development as well. Similarly, education of a country depends on how educated the middle class is. It is the responsibility of the middle class to provide education to the poor people.

Most importantly, the morals of a society are imbued in the middle class and it is they who foster them. As morals are crucial in the battle against  greed, the middle class assume greater credentials to spearhead the movement against greed and bring in sustainable development and growth. Contentment sufficiency philosophy, based on morals, would form the strong foundation necessary for achieving the goal of a new world order. Thus, it is seen that the middle class is eminently suitable to be the vehicle that could adopt and disseminate a contentment/ sufficiency philosophy and lead the movement against the evil neo-liberal system that is destroying the world.

The Global South, which comprises the majority of the world’s poor, may have to realise, before it is too late, that it is they who are the most vulnerable to climate change though they may not be the greatest offenders who cause it. Yet, if they are to survive, they must get together and help each other to achieve self-sufficiency in the essential needs, like food, energy and medicine. Trade must not be via exploitative and weaponised currency but by means of a barter system, based on purchase power parity (PPP). The union of these countries could be an expansion of organisations,like BRICS, ASEAN, SCO, AU, etc., which already have the trade and financial arrangements though in a rudimentary state but with great potential, if only they could sort out their bilateral issues and work towards a Global South which is neither rich nor poor but sufficient, contented and safe, a lesson to the Global North. China, India and South Africa must play the lead role in this venture. They would need the support of a strong philosophy that has the capacity to fight the evil of greed, for they cannot achieve these goals if fettered by greed. The proposed contentment / sufficient philosophy would form a strong philosophical foundation for the Global South, to unite, fight greed and develop a new world order which, above all, will make it safe for life.

by Prof. N. A. de S. Amaratunga 
PHD, DSc, DLITT

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SINHARAJA: The Living Cathedral of Sri Lanka’s Rainforest Heritage

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Damp and thick undergrowth

When Senior biodiversity scientist Vimukthi Weeratunga speaks of Sinharaja, his voice carries the weight of four decades spent beneath its dripping emerald canopy. To him, Sri Lanka’s last great rainforest is not merely a protected area—it is “a cathedral of life,” a sanctuary where evolution whispers through every leaf, stream and shadow.

 “Sinharaja is the largest and most precious tropical rainforest we have,” Weeratunga said.

“Sixty to seventy percent of the plants and animals found here exist nowhere else on Earth. This forest is the heart of endemic biodiversity in Sri Lanka.”

A Magnet for the World’s Naturalists

Sinharaja’s allure lies not in charismatic megafauna but in the world of the small and extraordinary—tiny, jewel-toned frogs; iridescent butterflies; shy serpents; and canopy birds whose songs drift like threads of silver through the mist.

“You must walk slowly in Sinharaja,” Weeratunga smiled.

“Its beauty reveals itself only to those who are patient and observant.”

For global travellers fascinated by natural history, Sinharaja remains a top draw. Nearly 90% of nature-focused visitors to Sri Lanka place Sinharaja at the top of their itinerary, generating a deep economic pulse for surrounding communities.

A Forest Etched in History

Centuries before conservationists championed its cause, Sinharaja captured the imagination of explorers and scholars. British and Dutch botanists, venturing into the island’s interior from the 17th century onward, mapped streams, documented rare orchids, and penned some of the earliest scientific records of Sri Lanka’s natural heritage.

Smallest cat

These chronicles now form the backbone of our understanding of the island’s unique ecology.

The Great Forest War: Saving Sinharaja

But Sinharaja nearly vanished.

In the 1970s, the government—guided by a timber-driven development mindset—greenlit a Canadian-assisted logging project. Forests around Sinharaja fell first; then, the chainsaws approached the ancient core.

 “There was very little scientific data to counter the felling,” Weeratunga recalled.

“But people knew instinctively this was a national treasure.”

The public responded with one of the greatest environmental uprisings in Sri Lankan history. Conservation icons Thilo Hoffmann and Neluwe Gunananda Thera led a national movement. After seven tense years, the new government of 1977 halted the project.

What followed was a scientific renaissance. Leading researchers—including Prof. Savithri Gunathilake and Prof. Nimal Gunathilaka, Prof. Sarath Kottagama, and others—descended into the depths of Sinharaja, documenting every possible facet of its biodiversity.

Thilak

 “Those studies paved the way for Sinharaja to become Sri Lanka’s very first natural World Heritage Site,” Weeratunga noted proudly.

A Book Woven From 30 Years of Field Wisdom

For Weeratunga, Sinharaja is more than academic terrain—it is home. Since joining the Forest Department in 1985 as a young researcher, he has trekked, photographed, documented and celebrated its secrets.

Now, decades later, he joins Dr. Thilak Jayaratne, the late Dr. Janaka Gallangoda, and Nadika Hapuarachchi in producing, what he calls, the most comprehensive book ever written on Sinharaja.

 “This will be the first major publication on Sinharaja since the early 1980s,” he said.

“It covers ecology, history, flora, fauna—and includes rare photographs taken over nearly 30 years.”

Some images were captured after weeks of waiting. Others after years—like the mysterious mass-flowering episodes where clusters of forest giants bloom in synchrony, or the delicate jewels of the understory: tiny jumping spiders, elusive amphibians, and canopy dwellers glimpsed only once in a lifetime.

The book even includes underwater photography from Sinharaja’s crystal-clear streams—worlds unseen by most visitors.

A Tribute to a Departed Friend

Halfway through the project, tragedy struck: co-author Dr. Janaka Gallangoda passed away.

 “We stopped the project for a while,” Weeratunga said quietly.

“But Dr. Thilak Jayaratne reminded us that Janaka lived for this forest. So we completed the book in his memory. One of our authors now watches over Sinharaja from above.”

Jumping spide

An Invitation to the Public

A special exhibition, showcasing highlights from the book, will be held on 13–14 December, 2025, in Colombo.

“We cannot show Sinharaja in one gallery,” he laughed.

“But we can show a single drop of its beauty—enough to spark curiosity.”

A Forest That Must Endure

What makes the book special, he emphasises, is its accessibility.

“We wrote it in simple, clear language—no heavy jargon—so that everyone can understand why Sinharaja is irreplaceable,” Weeratunga said.

“If people know its value, they will protect it.”

To him, Sinharaja is more than a rainforest.

It is Sri Lanka’s living heritage.

A sanctuary of evolution.

A sacred, breathing cathedral that must endure for generations to come.

By Ifham Nizam

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How Knuckles was sold out

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Knuckles range

Leaked RTI Files Reveal Conflicting Approvals, Missing Assessments, and Silent Officials

“This Was Not Mismanagement — It Was a Structured Failure”— CEJ’s Dilena Pathragoda

An investigation, backed by newly released Right to Information (RTI) files, exposes a troubling sequence of events in which multiple state agencies appear to have enabled — or quietly tolerated — unauthorised road construction inside the Knuckles Conservation Forest, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

At the centre of the unfolding scandal is a trail of contradictory letters, unexplained delays, unsigned inspection reports, and sudden reversals by key government offices.

“What these documents show is not confusion or oversight. It is a structured failure,” said Dilena Pathragoda, Executive Director of the Centre for Environmental Justice (CEJ), who has been analysing the leaked records.

“Officials knew the legal requirements. They ignored them. They knew the ecological risks. They dismissed them. The evidence points to a deliberate weakening of safeguards meant to protect one of Sri Lanka’s most fragile ecosystems.”

A Paper Trail of Contradictions

RTI disclosures obtained by activists reveal:

Approvals issued before mandatory field inspections were carried out

Three departments claiming they “did not authorise” the same section of the road

A suspiciously backdated letter clearing a segment already under construction

Internal memos flagging “missing evaluation data” that were never addressed

“No-objection” notes do not hold any legal weight for work inside protected areas, experts say.

One senior officer’s signature appears on two letters with opposing conclusions, sent just three weeks apart — a discrepancy that has raised serious questions within the conservation community.

“This is the kind of documentation that usually surfaces only after damage is done,” Pathragoda said. “It shows a chain of administrative behaviour designed to delay scrutiny until the bulldozers moved in.”

The Silence of the Agencies

Perhaps, more alarming is the behaviour of the regulatory bodies.

Multiple departments — including those legally mandated to halt unauthorised work — acknowledged concerns in internal exchanges but issued no public warnings, took no enforcement action, and allowed machinery to continue operating.

“That silence is the real red flag,” Pathragoda noted.

“Silence is rarely accidental in cases like this. Silence protects someone.”

On the Ground: Damage Already Visible

Independent field teams report:

Fresh erosion scars on steep slopes

Sediment-laden water in downstream streams

Disturbed buffer zones

Workers claiming that they were instructed to “complete the section quickly”

Satellite images from the past two months show accelerated clearing around the contested route.

Environmental experts warn that once the hydrology of the Knuckles slopes is altered, the consequences could be irreversible.

CEJ: “Name Every Official Involved”

CEJ is preparing a formal complaint demanding a multi-agency investigation.

Pathragoda insists that responsibility must be traced along the entire chain — from field officers to approving authorities.

“Every signature, every omission, every backdated approval must be examined,” she said.

“If laws were violated, then prosecutions must follow. Not warnings. Not transfers. Prosecutions.”

A Scandal Still Unfolding

More RTI documents are expected to come out next week, including internal audits and communication logs that could deepen the crisis for several agencies.

As the paper trail widens, one thing is increasingly clear: what happened in Knuckles is not an isolated act — it is an institutional failure, executed quietly, and revealed only because citizens insisted on answers.

by Ifham Nizam

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