Features
13 MORE EUROPEAN CITIES – PART “B” – Part 52
CONFESSIONS OF A GLOBAL GYPSY
By Dr. Chandana (Chandi) Jayawardena DPhil
President – Chandi J. Associates Inc. Consulting, Canada
Founder & Administrator – Global Hospitality Forum
chandij@sympatico.ca
Continuing from narrations of travels to six cities; Ostend, Brussels, Amsterdam, Hamburg,
Flensburg and Aabenraa on ‘13 More European cities – Part A’, published on last Sunday…
7.Essen
We reached Essen late in the evening. Our friend Marta Duchstein came to pick us up with her nephew. As her eyesight had deteriorated since we last saw her in Sri Lanka at Hotel Swanee two years previously, she had stopped driving. She was the most popular and respected long stay guest of the first hotel I managed. She was like a mother to all of us. During our two-day stay in her home, Martha was an excellent host. “Please relax, my friends, treat this as your own home. Chandi, wear a sarong as you do at your home in Colombo!” Martha ordered and I obeyed, making her laugh.
Essen was famous for coal mining and steel production. It had remained a small town until the onset of industrialization. The city then became one of Germany’s most important coal and steel centres. Essen, until the 1970s, attracted workers from all over West Germany. In 1982, it was the fifth-largest city in West Germany, but the population of around 650,000 was gradually declining, due to changes in the industries and economy.

Museum Folkwang with a major collection of 19th and 20th century art was a well-worth visit. The Deutsches Plakat Museum (German Poster Museum) with thousands of interesting posters from the fields of politics, business and culture, had the largest collection of its kind in Europe. After the usual three-hour city tour, we were able to get a quick impression of the history, architecture and culture of Essen.
8.Cologne
We reached Cologne (Köln) within an hour from Essen. There were around 80 trains per day between these two major German cities. One of my batchmates from the Ceylon Hotel School (CHS), Chris Isaac, picked us up from the station and took us to his house for a two-day stay.
Chris was working as an accountant for Hotel Köln InterContinental. In the evening, another CHS graduate living in Cologne, Nihal Mahawaduge, joined us for dinner. It was nice to meet their German wives and infant sons. As I had not seen Chris and Nihal since we graduated from CHS, seven years previously, I was very pleased to get up to date with them. We had a marathon chat after dinner with a lot of laughter, in the tradition of CHS hostel. We called it GK or ‘Gon Kaiya’ (Bull Chat).
The next day, we did a long tour of the city, with a population of nearly one million. Cologne, a 2,000-year-old city spanning the Rhine River is the region’s cultural hub. Over the centuries, Cologne had undergone occupations by the Roman, French and the British, and in between, had been a part of the German kingdom of Prussia.
Cologne has an impressive collection of 30 museums and hundreds of galleries. Exhibitions range from local, ancient Roman archaeological sites to contemporary graphics and sculpture. A landmark of High Gothic architecture located in the reconstructed old town, the twin-spired Cologne Cathedral is also known for its gilded, medieval reliquary and sweeping river views. The adjacent Museum Ludwig showcases 20th-century art, including many masterpieces by Picasso.
9.Luxembourg City
We left our friend’s home in Cologne to catch an early train to Luxembourg which was a four-hour journey. Having recently visited the Netherlands and Belgium, our visit to Luxembourg completed the three-country Benelux Union. With a population of only 365,000, Luxembourg is a small, land-locked country, surrounded by Belgium, France and West Germany. It is mostly rural with the dense Ardennes Forest and nature parks in the north, rocky terrain in the east and the Moselle River valley in the southeast.
Its capital, Luxembourg City, is famous for its fortified, medieval old town perched on sheer cliffs. It is one of the four official capitals of the European Union (together with Brussels, Frankfurt, and Strasbourg) and the seat of the Court of Justice or the highest judicial authority of the European Union. This was a short visit. We then had a long, eight-hour train ride to West Germany’s Munich.

10.Munich
It was close to midnight when we arrived in Munich (München). Our friends, Angelika and Gerhard were happy to see us. It had been two years since they last visited us in Sri Lanka. Angelika worked as a flight attendant for Lufthansa airline and Gerhard had a busy practice as a corporate lawyer. In 1982, Munich had a population of 1.3 million and was the second largest city in West Germany after Hamburg.
Next morning, Angelika played the role of our personal tour guide. Munich, Bavaria’s capital since 1506, is home to centuries-old buildings and numerous museums. During the 16th century, Munich was a centre of the German Counter-Reformation (the Catholic Revival) and the renaissance arts. The city is also famous for its annual Oktoberfest celebration and its beer halls, including the famed Hofbräuhaus – known as the world`s most famous tavern, founded in 1589. In the old town, central Marienplatz square contains landmarks such as the Neo-Gothic town hall.
After the Nazis took control in Germany in 1933, Munich was declared their ‘Capital of the Movement’. The city was heavily bombed during the Second World War, but it has restored most of its traditional cityscape. In 1949, when the post-war American occupation ended, there was a great increase in population and economic growth during the years of ‘economic miracle’.
The city became world famous when it hosted the 1972 Summer Olympics, and co-hosted the 1974 FIFA World Cup games. Like many people around the world, I was shocked in 1972 by the bloody massacres during the Summer Olympics carried out by eight members of a Palestinian terrorist group. Therefore, I insisted that Angelika kindly included 1972 Olympic grounds in our tour itinerary. After spending a memorable two nights with our friends in Munich, we took a train to Austria.
11.Vienna
The train journey between Munich and Vienna was four hours. Our dear friends, Biggi and Wolfgang Fernau had taken three days off to host us. Biggi was a beauty consultant for the Estée Lauder Companies and Wolfgang was an engineer running his own one-man lucrative business specializing in repairs to historic buildings. They both managed to have a good balance of work and leisure. They were world travellers and inspired me to do the same. Because of our friendship with them and the rich history and culture, Vienna soon became one of our favourite cities in the world. In 1982, 1985 and 1990 we spent three great holidays in Vienna. Biggi and Wolfgang stayed in our houses in Colombo and London on four occasions.
In 1982, out of the total Austrian population of 7.5 million, 20% or 1.5 million lived in Vienna. Life in Vienna is immersed in culture and the arts. It has a strong heritage for producing exceptional classical music and theatre. The city is associated with some of the most monumental characters of the world of classical music and visual art: Mozart, Beethoven and Klimt, to name but a few. About infamous Viennese, Adolf Hitler who was born in Austria-Hungary, had spent a few years in Vienna before moving to Germany in 1913. Hitler, who was a painter, had produced hundreds of works and sold his paintings and postcards to try to earn a living during his Vienna years.
Vienna has incredible museums and music venues, including the Vienna State Opera House, where thousands of visitors flock each year to be entertained by world-class musical performances. Another key feature contributing to the city’s well-being is the coffee culture. Viennese coffee houses are institutions, loved by locals and tourists alike for providing a space to discuss the day’s events in a relaxed and quaint environment. Frequented by intellectuals, artists and philosophers during the 19th century, they have developed a reputation for being cultural hubs where great minds gather and share concepts, ideas and creations.
Our most impressive stop in Vienna was visiting Schönbrunn (meaning ‘beautiful spring’) Palace. This 1,441-room palace is one of the most important architectural, cultural, and historical monuments in Austria. It was the main summer residence of the Habsburg Austrian dynasty, which was once one of the most prominent royal houses of Europe. The history of the palace and its vast gardens spans over 300 years, reflecting the changing tastes, interests, and aspirations of successive Habsburg monarchs. It has been a major tourist attraction since the mid-1950s.

12.Salzburg
After three full days of activities and fun, we left Vienna. Biggi and Wolfgang made us promise that our next trip should be for at least a week, a promise we happily kept. We spent two and half hours travelling by train from Vienna to the fourth-largest city in Austria, Salzburg. We both were big fans of ‘Sound of Music’, which became the most popular movie of all time in the world in 1965. As most scenes of this classic movie based on Broadway play Rodgers and Hammerstein, were filmed in Salzburg, we decided to spend a day in this beautiful, small city of 140,000 residents. In addition to the Sound of Music tour, the other main attraction of Salzburg was being the city of Mozart.
Our next train trip was from Salzburg to Paris. By then, we were convinced that travelling by train was a great way to experience Europe, but we had never spent a full night in a train before. We took a slow, night train and slept in berths with shower and room service. We arrived in Paris in the morning after nearly a 12-hour train ride. As we had a little extra time, we decided that Paris was worth a third visit during this trip. We did some walking in areas we missed during the last visit two months previously. Paris looked even more romantic in the spring compared to the winter.
13.Boulogne Sur Mer
The train from Paris to Boulogne-sur-Mer took over three hours. This small waterfront city had a population of around 50,000. As an ancient town, it was the major Roman port for trade and communication with its Province of Britain. Boulogne-sur-Mer is a city, known as a major fishing port, on the north coast of France. It had a huge aquarium with thousands of marine species. In the fortified old town, the Castle Museum was within a 13th-century chateau. After a seafood dinner in a rustic waterfront restaurant, we left for Calais to catch our short ferry to Dover and then a train to London. The next day, we flew from London to Colombo.

Ending the three-month trip to 12 Countries
Returning to Sri Lanka after three months ended my third overseas trip which was the longest. We timed our return just before the biggest annual celebration and family get together in Sri Lanka, the traditional New Year on April 13, 1982. In spite of being very tired, we were eager to share our adventurous, travel stories in detail with our families.
Jokingly, we made a big ‘END’ sign with postcards collected from most of the 51 cities I visited in 12 European countries during the memorable winter of 1982. The trip was certainly fun, but needed lots of planning. Travelling with Sri Lankan passports, it meant that visas were required for most of the countries. Therefore, to overcome difficulties, I had to plan well in advance to obtain visas from various embassies in Colombo and London.
Replicating something my father did after his many international trips, I mounted a world map in our study, and marked the 17 countries I had visited up to that point. As a reminder to myself, on the back of that world map, I wrote ’83 more to reach my target of 100 countries! 😊 Chandi J. 1982-4-12’. Forty years later, I am still slightly short of reaching that ambitious global travel target I set for myself when I was a young man with limited resources in Sri Lanka.
Features
Addressing human rights needs multi-pronged approach
by Jehan Perera
The ongoing 63rd session of the United Nations Human Rights Council, which runs from September 7 to October 7, 2026, in Geneva is important to Sri Lanka. Its outcome will send a signal to other international actors, including the European Union, as to whether Sri Lanka’s reform policy is on track. The written update on Sri Lanka, prepared by the Office of the United Nations High Commissioner for Human Rights under High Commissioner Volker Türk and presented by Deputy High Commissioner Nada Al-Nashif, has taken a more holistic approach to the government’s performance over the past year. It acknowledged the progress Sri Lanka has made under the NPP government in relation to accountability for financial fraud and other economic crimes. At the same time, the High Commissioner’s update made clear that progress in relation to economic crime cannot be equated with progress in relation to accountability for grave human rights violations committed during the armed conflict and in other periods of political violence.
The government may have felt sufficiently confident that its response to the High Commissioner’s update could be handled by its representative in Geneva and did not require the attendance of Foreign Minister Vijitha Herath. Sri Lanka’s representative Sumith Dassanayake called for a fundamental review of country-specific mandates within the UN Human Rights Council. Sri Lanka has been facing repeated scrutiny in the form of successive UNHRC resolutions from 2012 onwards. Ambassador Dassanayake argued that such mandates should not continue indefinitely and must be regularly assessed against measurable objectives and tangible outcomes. This may reflect confidence that its record of reform is beginning to receive recognition internationally. The reports and statements at the Human Rights Council acknowledged progress in the government’s efforts to address corruption and economic crime.
The government’s anti-corruption drive has included investigations into allegations involving individuals who held the highest political offices in the country. The arrest of former President Ranil Wickremesinghe in connection with alleged misuse of public funds, and the investigation into the controversial SriLankan Airlines Airbus transaction involving former President Mahinda Rajapaksa’s son, are examples of the reach of these investigations. The arrest of SLPP National Organiser and Member of Parliament Namal Rajapaksa in connection with allegations relating to the Airbus purchase scandal has also demonstrated that the government is willing to pursue cases involving politically powerful figures.
Wide Range
The ongoing investigations appear to encompass a wide range of parliamentarians and government members, both past and present. They suggest that accountability for corruption is not being confined to lower-level officials or to individuals who lack political influence. This is precisely the kind of accountability that the public has long demanded and that previous governments have too often failed to deliver. The government is also reaching into the upper levels of the military hierarchies of the past. The case in which 11 young men, most of them Tamil, disappeared after being abducted in Colombo between 2008 and 2009 involved allegations that some families were asked to pay ransoms. The investigation into this case has reached senior military figures. The willingness to pursue such cases is important because it challenges the assumption that those who exercised power during the war are beyond the reach of the law. Such cases would provide a practical test of whether the government’s commitment to accountability for economic crimes is part of a broader commitment to the rule of law.
Success in prosecuting corruption cannot substitute for justice for those who were unlawfully killed, disappeared, tortured or otherwise victimised. The UN report noted that there had been no recognition or accountability for crimes under international law, gross human rights violations and serious violations of international humanitarian law committed by all parties during the war. The government has yet to establish a credible and effective process to address the many cases of enforced disappearance, extrajudicial killing, torture and other serious violations. The government needs to take the international commitments it has inherited on human rights issues seriously. It needs to adopt a multi-pronged approach and go beyond focusing primarily on financial and corruption-related accountability.
Need Action
As a member of the international community, Sri Lanka has a responsibility to abide by the commitments it has made. It cannot selectively uphold international obligations postponing those that are politically difficult. Also, as a small country, Sri Lanka has a self-interest in ensuring the survival of international law, which is all that it has to protect it from the depredations of the bigger international actors. The erosion of international law by powerful states makes it all the more important that smaller states uphold the principles on which the international system is based. Sri Lanka cannot credibly appeal to international law when it is threatened from outside while disregarding its own obligations within. Sri Lanka also needs to win the confidence of its own population that it is committed to justice and equality for all. Public opinion polls and community-level research have disclosed that ethnic and religious minorities are appreciative of the sense of greater security they enjoy under the present government from ethnic or religious extremists.
But a sense of security is not the same as the fulfilment of rights. As far as the Tamil people are concerned, the government has yet to deliver on several of its specific promises. These include the long-standing problems of missing persons, the release of political prisoners who have been members of Tamil militant organisations, and the return of land taken over for military purposes during the war. The issue of Buddhist statues and archaeological sites found on their properties which are then taken from their control continue to trouble them especially as they see no signs of resolution of those disputes. The issue of pastureland in the east of the country in Mylathamadu is particularly concerning to them as they see orders by successive presidents, both President Ranil Wickremesinghe and President Anura Kumara Dissanayake, being disregarded on the ground. The Mylathamadu pastureland dispute is where traditional Tamil dairy farmers have engaged in multi-year protests against the ongoing encroachment of their ancestral grazing lands by Sinhalese crop cultivators relocated under government development schemes.
The government’s failure to hold Provincial Council elections is particularly troubling. The provincial council system is the only one that can provide the Tamil people and other ethnic minorities the opportunity to wield political power and exercise a measure of self-determination in the areas in which they are the numerical majority. The continued postponement of Provincial Council elections therefore has consequences that go beyond an ordinary electoral delay. It deprives communities of an important constitutional avenue for democratic participation and power-sharing. The ethnic and religious minorities appreciate what the government is doing in the larger national interest, but they must not be made to feel that their special concerns are being ignored. The government cannot resolve Sri Lanka’s entire legacy of rights violations overnight. But it does need to demonstrate that it is willing to move forward on multiple fronts, not only on a few.
Features
The emptying university: why are academics leaving?
by Hasini Lecamwasam
Brain drain in Sri Lanka is at an all-time high. The latest Human Flight and Brain Drain Index for 2024 shows that we are 16th of 175 countries on this count, and first in South Asia. That this is a crisis goes without saying. Brain drain affects all sectors, and is a huge strain on the resources of a developing country. Particularly in Sri Lanka, where considerable public investment is made in the moulding of professionals through the system of free education, this amounts to transferring the resources of poorer countries to richer ones with top migration destinations. It is, therefore, important to consider the push and pull factors behind skilled outmigration, specifically from the public university system of Sri Lanka, a key focus of the Kuppi column.
From frustration to exit
Several bitter realities in our crumbling public university system act as push factors in the migration decisions of academics. Many essays on this column have, over several years, attempted to highlight numerous aspects of this erosion. Perhaps, primary among them is the lack of adequate funding, which has debilitating ramifications for the system: very little investment is made in the up-keep of infrastructure (and even less in its expansion), resulting in serious constraints in accommodating growing batches of students and the wellbeing of the staff (particularly in regional universities); research funding is negligible, severely curtailing academics’ ability to effectively discharge their primary duty of teaching which should ideally be informed by their research (and the research of others, access to which is also, unfortunately, mediated by funding); a funding crunch also means a slash in (or greater constraints on) recruitments, increasing the workloads of academics, currently in service, and eating into the quality of their teaching and research.
What recruitments are done frustrate those with any faith in merit. As many of our interventions in this column have shown, recruitment processes are characterised by archaic selection criteria that place very little weight on a candidate’s postgraduate growth and the advantages of interdisciplinary training. Added to this is the general preference for ‘culturally compliant’ candidates who would not rock the boat too much. The combined effect is that those with the capacity and spirit to try out innovations in education are discouraged from joining or staying on in the public university system. Some, or many, of them may instead seek appointments abroad.
A thread that binds all of these problems together is pervasive hierarchy which, again, many interventions on this column have sought to highlight. It is the interest in preserving hierarchy that leads to the preference for alumni in recruitment processes. Hierarchy within universities can be particularly frustrating for younger faculty and women, who typically have to bear the brunt of the workload of their senior, often male, colleagues. In a context of funding, and, therefore, recruitment, restrictions, this translates into a disproportionate burden being placed on junior (usually female) faculty, seriously hindering their prospects of growing into successful academics due to the time constraints within which they have to operate. Junior academics, therefore, are more likely to look to educational institutions abroad for what they hope would be a different work culture that respects them more.
Ideological ruses
On top of these structural frustrations are also the workings of neoliberal ideology. For one, the nature of relations between the global metropole and peripheral countries like Sri Lanka largely dictates what is desirable and what is not. The apparent lifestyles of Western countries – from food to clothing, housing, appliances, and so on – have continued to lure people from the periphery with the promise of a ‘better’ life, alongside better career advancement opportunities. This, of course, masks much of the struggle that goes on behind the scenes to survive in Western societies. For instance, in most cases highly attractive public infrastructure such as roads, public transport, clean air, quality control of food, and so on belie the astronomical privatised costs of healthcare and education. Health insurance is usually mandatory and steep in most high-income settings, while even subsidised education (for which eligibility criteria are strict) creates a serious dent in household earnings. Of course, the happy images of glossy trams and gleeful international travellers don’t convey this.
A second ideological ruse is the myth of greater opportunities and recognition abroad. While there is no denying that local skilled sectors – be it higher education, health, civil service, or private white-collar positions – are replete with issues that inhibit merit-based professional advancement, the notion that things are fundamentally different in Western countries stems from an uninformed optimism. As is now increasingly known and discussed, Western labour markets are notoriously racialised, and equivalent skills are rarely treated as such. Instead, it is usually demanded that skilled migrants clear certain formal examinations in their host countries. In fields like medicine, this is followed by an interview that may also be racially prejudiced. Once these initial steps are cleared, remuneration reverts to square one irrespective of experience accumulated abroad, not to mention the many subtle aggressions, rejections, and trials one has to go through in the negotiation of everyday life. In the many cases where professional qualifications are used as leverage for a move abroad, sights are set on a better future for one’s children, which again is informed by the misplaced faith in greater opportunities and a lack of awareness of the factors outlined above. Needless to say, in the global swing to the Right, things have become even more challenging. In such a context, considering the few rare cases where skilled migrants live extremely comfortable lives as the norm becomes a dangerous misconception.
The two ideological pull factors mentioned above are complemented by a push factor, which has to do with a highly classed understanding of what a white-collar professional is due in their society. Many of these aspirations are clearly articulated in academic trade union action demanding separate quotas for school entry, increased fuel allowances, winning back the presently stalled vehicle permit scheme, salary hikes, and so on. While working people have every right to agitate for better material conditions, insofar as it remains unconnected to a broader movement for improving the conditions of the lot of the working class, it remains self-serving and very much within the class logic of capitalist society. Since these demands are articulated as a means of maintaining distinction, it is clear that they are not envisaged as part of a class movement. The frustration of not having these needs for distinction satisfied may push some to seek greener pastures abroad, at least financially, (perhaps as a means of social mobility based on it), only to be disappointed on most occasions.
What is to be done?
Addressing the systemic push factors listed above requires, first and foremost, greater allocations for free public higher education. This would immediately translate into more recruitments and less work per academic, and better research and teaching in the long haul. An increase in funding would also ideally lead to greater infrastructural investments, especially including improving the living conditions of those who work in regional universities amid untold hardships. Next, fairer, more creative, and, therefore, more effective recruitment policies are badly needed to attract talented individuals to university positions. Rather than carving out a ‘special category’ for academics to achieve this purpose, which is informed by a classed logic, this needs to be done through fundamental reforms in recruitment processes. Third, a persistent attack on the entrenched hierarchy within universities through internal reform is much called for. Reforming recruitment practices will go a long way towards addressing this. Measures should also be taken to introduce more stringent policies against SGBV (not to mention ragging, even though it is not directly connected to brain drain). Such measures would create a safer, fairer, and more attractive workplace, which would give more reasons for people to stay.
On top of greater allocations, we also need a transformation of our aspirations themselves if this situation is to change. That necessitates a kind of education capable of questioning the ‘paradise’ conception of Western societies, and lays bare their colonial material and ideological dimensions, in both their historical and contemporary manifestations. These colonial understandings of the ‘good life’, moreover, have devastating ecological implications for the planet, not to mention social justice. An education with the ability to transform this mindset would hopefully prove to be more than a mere path to social mobility, rather being a tool of social emancipation that renders mobility moot.
(Hasini Lecamwasam is with the Department of Political Science, University of Peradeniya)
Kuppi is a politics and pedagogy happening on the margins of the lecture hall that parodies, subverts, and simultaneously reaffirms social hierarchies.
Features
Friends favourite Suzi Croner returns for Oktoberfest 2026
Charming audiences in Switzerland as Suzi Flückiger, Sri Lanka’s own Suzi Croner is coming home… for a very special occasion.
The bubbly former frontline vocalist of 90s band Friends will take the stage at a popular venue in Colombo for Oktoberfest 2026.
Known in Europe for her country and classic hits, Suzi has remained a much-loved name back home. This will be a rare chance for local fans to see her live and celebrate the voice behind so many Friends memories.
Oktoberfest 2026 in Colombo promises an evening of live music, traditional Bavarian food and beer, colourful dirndls and lederhosen, folk dancing, and plenty of community cheer.

Suzi Croner (Flückiger)
Against this lively backdrop, Suzi will take the stage for a special solo set, featuring her own pre-recorded music. She performed at the event last year too, as a solo artiste, but a German band providing the music.
This year, however she says, it’s a different scene.
“The novel attraction will be the dancers from Germany — all girls, clad in German outfits,” Suzi said. She added that the event will also highlight the activities generally connected with Oktoberfest, which should generate a lot of fun and excitement for those who join her in Colombo next month.
Suzi has become a much-in-demand artiste in Europe, and has even performed Down Under, in Melbourne.
In Switzerland, where she has been based for the past 42 years, she continues to charm audiences with country and classic hits, performing at private events and community nights across Europe.
“My weekends are generally loaded with my work as a singer,” she said. “And I also play tennis three times a week, because I need to keep fit to entertain my audience in an active way.”
Her repertoire is made up mainly of Swiss, German and English songs.
And true to form, Suzi loves springing surprises.
“So watch out when you join me at Oktoberfest 2026, in Colombo!” she said.
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