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The story of the Ceylon spice: harvesting ‘true cinnamon’

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By Zinara Rathnayake

It is 9am in the Carlton estate in Thihagoda, a small town about 160km (100 miles) south of Sri Lanka’s capital Colombo, and the July sun hides behind inky clouds. The air is thick and hot. Two men walk to the main estate building carrying piles of cinnamon branches. Inside, a group of women sit on the cement floor, chatting as they peel cinnamon.

Since 2000, workers here have planted, harvested and peeled cinnamon, sending batches of the fragrant sticks to a factory in Kamburupitiya, a 15-minute drive away, where they are cut, packed and loaded onto shipping containers for export.

Cinnamon harvesting usually takes place from June to December when the monsoon skies burst into downpours. But here at Rathna Producers Cinnamon Exports, it is produced throughout the year on the 42-acre (17 hectares) estate. “When we are done harvesting one acre, the next acre is ready,” says Chamara Lakshith, 28, the estate’s visiting officer, whose job involves coordinating between the estate and the main office in Kamburupitiya. “But sometimes for a few weeks, the bark is so hard that you can’t peel cinnamon. We know it by looking at the trees; young leaves turn striking red.”

The family business that began in 1985 is run by Ravindu Runage, whose late father started in the cinnamon trade with 7,000 Sri Lankan rupees ($35) to buy cinnamon from small farmers and sell it to bigger traders.

Now, Runage says the company is one of the largest cinnamon producers in Sri Lanka, exporting cinnamon and other spices like nutmeg and black pepper to 56 countries. Apart from growing organic cinnamon, the company also sources it from 8,000 individual and small-scale farmers and exports more than 30 containers of cinnamon a month.

“We grew up with cinnamon,” says 36-year-old Runage, at his office in Kamburupitiya, surrounded by several industry awards his family has won over the years. “We lived in a two-bedroom house. We slept in one room. In the other room, my thaththa [father] stored cinnamon.”

Once they were in the business, the Runage family learned that Mexico is one of the biggest cinnamon consumers. “So thaththa learned English and visited Mexico in 1998 to find a buyer,” says Runage. “But they spoke Spanish. So thaththa sent his business cards to companies he found in a telephone book.”

“Five months later, we sold our first container of cinnamon to Mexico.”

The world’s best cinnamon

There are two types of cinnamon in the Western market: Ceylon cinnamon (named after the title British colonisers gave to Sri Lanka) and cassia. Ceylon cinnamon is native to Sri Lanka; it has a lush, inviting scent and a sweet taste, and its quills are soft and light brown in colour. Cassia comes from other Asian countries like China, Indonesia and Vietnam; its bark is sturdy with a rough texture, it is dark brown in colour and is stronger and hotter in taste. Cassia is considered lower quality, while Ceylon often triumphs as the pure, “true cinnamon”.

The process of producing this cinnamon includes several laborious, time-consuming steps. This is also why Ceylon cinnamon is expensive in the market while cassia is cheap, Runage says.

At the estate, seeds are planted in grow bags. After one year, saplings are cultivated. Harvesting begins four years later.

Ravindu Runage’s late father started Rathna Producers Cinnamon Exports in 1985; they have now won several industry awards

For harvesting, farmers cut down the branches of cinnamon trees at an angle, which allows cinnamon bushes to regrow, Lakshith says. Young and tender twigs are thrown away. Once branches are soaked in water and are moist enough, peelers remove the outermost layer of the cinnamon bark. To produce thin cinnamon quills, they spend hours stripping off the inner bark of the cinnamon branch in sheets.

Once produced, Ceylon cinnamon quills are graded based on their width; the thinner the quills, the higher they are in value. Alba is the highest form of cinnamon, with a diameter of 6mm. H1 is a lower grade of cinnamon, with a diameter of 22mm. In the export market, Alba costs twice as much as H1.

A generational craft

With a hearty smile, Suduhakuru Piyathilake holds a large batch of cinnamon quills. Piyathilake and his wife have been living in an old, dilapidated house next to the estate’s main building for 10 years now.

At 5am every day, Piyathilake heads off to the plantation. After collecting branches from about 15 trees, he plods back to the water tank in the main building, drops them off for soaking and returns to the plantation. He must make several trips back and forth before he begins peeling.

“When it’s moist, it’s easy to peel,” says the 55-year-old. “That’s why we cut them early in the morning and soak them.”

When the clock hits 10am, Piyathilake comes back with the last batch. After five hours, he has collected the branches of 200 trees. Sweat trickles down his forehead. A resident kitten swats at his feet, but Piyathilake ignores it and rushes in for a shower.

After a two-hour break, he sharpens his knife by scraping the outer bark of the branch and then he gets to work. “This is what my father and his father did,” he says. “Now my sons are cinnamon peelers.”

Piyathilake has been peeling cinnamon for the last 43 years. He learned the craft from his father in their village in Elpitiya, 70km north of the Runage family estate, where his children live with his mother. At home, cinnamon trees adorn their back yard, Piyathilake says. “But it’s a small garden so we can’t harvest cinnamon every day of the year. We don’t make much money there. So I work here with my wife. We only see our children once in every four months.”

Piyathilake is so adept at work that he can masterfully strip off extremely thin barks of the cinnamon branch by merely measuring them next to his index finger. After peeling the outer bark, he makes two cuts on two opposite sides before peeling off the inner bark. A half a length cut of your smallest bone is for Alba, Piyathilake says. For “rough” or H1 cinnamon quills, Piyathilake uses the length of two bones of his index finger.

However, even for experienced generational peelers like Piyathilake, making extremely thin Alba cinnamon is profitless. By 10pm – when he sets off to sleep – Piyathilake can have peeled about 5kg of lower grade cinnamon, earning about 2,500 rupees ($12.50) per kilogramme. “But I will only make just one kilo of Alba for the whole day,” he says. “Alba is smaller and lightweight so you need to make more quills to make up a kilo – that earns me only 4,300 rupees [$21.50].”

When Piyathilake removes the inner bark, it curls up within a few minutes under the shade. These barks are then stuffed with small cuttings of the bark called quillings to make one 42-inch (1 metre) quill. Quills are placed on ropes under the roof for drying. After three days, peelers pack them into bales and send them off to the factory.

For Piyathilake and his family, cinnamon is their bread and butter, but it is also much more than that. “It’s a craft you have to master for years. I started peeling cinnamon when I was 12. It took me several years to strip off thin layers of the inner bark without damaging it,” he says.

Skills shortage

For producers like Runage, however, it is not always easy to find skilled labour. At the Carlton estate, Piyathilake is one of their last experienced peelers. Runage feels that finding generational peelers is one of the biggest challenges in the business today.

“Peeling cinnamon requires hard labour, so the younger generations don’t want to do it any more. They prefer office jobs. It doesn’t necessarily mean that these office jobs will pay you more than peeling cinnamon, but an office job has a better social image today,” says Runage. “People consider peeling cinnamon as a low-level job, so it’s difficult for us to find experienced peelers now.”

Back at the estate’s main building, grey-haired Heenipellage Chandra sits on a floor mat, her eyes focused on the cinnamon bark she peels. For 10 years, the 62-year-old has walked to the estate daily to peel at least 3kg of cinnamon. Chandra recalls Runage’s father visiting her house in the late 1980s. “He came to meet my father-in-law and buy cinnamon from him.”

Chandra has been peeling cinnamon at home since she was married. “Somewhere in the late 1970s,” she says, trying to recall her wedding day, “Husband’s father and his father, all of them peeled cinnamon.”

But Chandra’s children do not peel cinnamon any more. Both her 20-something sons do office jobs, says Chandra as her eyes twinkle with a smile. She is proud of her sons. They have climbed the social ladder.

When the coronavirus pandemic began, most resident cinnamon peelers left for their homes during the months-long lockdowns. Runage had to shuffle his staff around to find labour; women from the factory were relocated to the estate to peel cinnamon.

– AL JAZEERA



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Blending additional warmth to festive v season

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Pegasus Reef Hotel brought a refreshing twist to the festive season with its much awaited ‘Tropical Christmas’ themed holiday activities by lighting the Christmas Tree and welcoming Santa to the tropics a press release said. The celebrations provided a unique and joyful experience for the whole family, blending the traditional warmth of the festive season with the vibrancy of a tropical setting. The beautifully lit tropical Christmas tree set the tone for both an unforgettable evening and a magical holiday season for all. Guests enjoyed a host of activities including interactive elements for children, including surprise Christmas gifts and photo opportunities with Santa said the release.

The centre piece of the festivities was Santa who made a grand entrance to the event having escaped the cold of the North Pole, to spread the joys of Christmas to young and old in a warm tropical setting. This added to the ambience and brought out that true festive spirit. Tropical-inspired cocktails were available along with delicious food to offer additional flavour to the celebrations.

Commenting on the celebrations, Renuke Coswatte, General Manager of Pegasus Reef Hotel said, “Our Christmas celebrations have always been highly anticipated and has set the tone for the season. This year, by giving festive traditions a tropical twist, we were able to provide our guests, their friends and families a truly unforgettable start to the holiday season. From ‘Santa’s Welcome Party’ coupled with the ‘Tropical Christmas Tree Lighting Ceremony’ and with what we have in store in December, the celebrations will truly be unforgettable.”

Pegasus Reef Hotel has garnered a reputation for hosting exciting festive events over the years, making it a top choice for year-end parties for all. So much so, that the hotels Christmas festivities are eagerly anticipated throughout the year. This year’s ‘Tropical Christmas’ celebration was an ideal opportunity for families, couples and friends to celebrate the season in a warm and inviting setting, that features activities for all.

Lighting of the Christmas Tree and Santa’s welcome party brought the magic of ‘Tropical Christmas’ to life blending traditional holiday festivities added with tropical charm. Pegasus Reef Hotel warmly invites everyone to join in the upcoming seasonal celebrations and create cherished family memories that will last a lifetime.

For more information on future events, contact Pegasus Reef Hotel on 0112049600, follow them on social media at facebook.com/Pegasusreefwattala or www.instagram.com/pegasusreef_wattala and visit their website at www.pegasusreefhotel.com.

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Tis the season to sparkle and shine

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This festive season, step into a world of allure at Taj Samudra Colombo, where the spirit of Christmas is brought to life with joy, celebration, and heartwarming experiences said a press release.In the words of Kris Kringle from A Miracle on 34th Street, “Christmas isn’t just a day; it’s a frame of mind.” At Taj Samudra, we embrace this philosophy with a delightful array of offerings designed to spread joy and festive cheer to our guests throughout the season said the release.

From gourmet hampers to festive family dinners, the Christmas carvery market, and the iconic Christmas goodies hut, our kitchen team has created a magical atmosphere for guests to enjoy, share, and celebrate this season of giving.

Luxury Seasonal Hampers and Wine

This Christmas, Taj Samudra offers the ultimate luxury gift experience with customized seasonal hampers. Choose from a selection of premium wines, Champagne, sparkling wines, and exclusive beverages, along with Christmas cakes, puddings, festival chocolates, cheese, seasonal cookies, and more. Curated to perfection, these hampers are the ideal way to indulge your loved ones with festive joy.

Christmas Carvery Counter

Indulge in the flavors of the season at our Christmas Carvery Counter, featuring a homemade charcuterie station brimming with delicious offerings. Enjoy lamb salami, beef salami, smoked lamb, honey ham, chicken cold cut, smoked seer, chicken liver pate and a variety of other delectable treats, perfect for gathering and sharing with friends and family.

Christmas goodies hut at the lobby

Visit the delightful Christmas goodies hut in our lobby, a stunning display of handpicked seasonal treats created by our award-winning chefs. The Goodies Hut, open daily from 10:00 am to 9.00 pm, offers an array of beautifully decorated seasonal goodies and carefully selected gift items—ideal for gifting or enjoying yourself.

Christmas eve celebrations

On the eve of Christmas, join us for a traditional Christmas eve dinner buffet at Ports of Call, where festive delicacies, live action stations, and mouthwatering desserts await. Santa will make a special appearance to delight the young and the young-at-heart. Additionally, enjoy a festive à la carte lunch and dinner at Golden Dragon, Navratna, and YUMI, our stylish Japanese resto-bar.

Christmas Day Festivities

Celebrate Christmas Day with a traditional festive lunch at Ports of Call, featuring all-time favorites such as succulent turkey and a wide selection of Christmas specialties. Our Executive Chef Sajesh Nair and his kitchen brigade will craft the perfect Christmas spread to satisfy every craving.

The said experience an unforgettable musical evening with The Traveleer Sound Duo from Budapest

The release said The lattice lobby lounge for an unforgettable musical experience with The Traveler Sound Duo from Budapest, Hungary. Known for their captivating performances, this talented duo brings a diverse repertoire that spans pop, rock, jazz, and more, offering something for every music lover. Catch them live every Tuesday to Sunday from 7:00 pm to 10:30 pm and enjoy their soulful melodies and dynamic sound in the heart of our vibrant atmosphere. They will also be performing during our renowned Sunday Brunch at Ports of Call, adding the perfect soundtrack to your delightful dining experience.

Unwind and Celebrate at YUMI Japanese Resto Bar and Poolside – Daily Happy Hour from 3:00 pm to 7:00 pm

This holiday season, experience the magic of Christmas at Taj Samudra Colombo, where every corner of the hotel radiates the joy and warmth of the festive season.

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Hot Red looks for Christmas

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Christmas is here and we are eager to begin the celebrations. Everything about December is breathtaking and spectacular, with the rapid shift in the weather and the increasing camaraderie. The cherry on top is the excitement of the New Year itself! The joyous month of the New Year and Christmas is filled with delicious delicacies, elegant decorations, lovely attire, and joyful vibes everywhere. Dressing up for Christmas in warm and fashionable red outfits is something we all love. However, if you are still confused about your Christmas attire, don’t worry, we are here to rescue you. When it comes to fashion and style, no one can do it better than our Bollywood queens. Here are some red-hot looks from our fav Bollywood divas to inspire your Christmas outfits.

Kiara Advani is a true fashionista who can pull off any look. While co-ord sets are among the season’s hottest fashions. In a red-coordinated ensemble, Kiara is offering fashion advice to everyone. Her ensemble is the ultimate Christmas attire since it perfectly combines sexiness and elegance. She is wearing a bustier crop top and a high-rise skirt that accentuate her physique. Bronze bangles and earrings completed Kiara Advani’s outfit as accessories. With this attire, you’ll definitely steal the show.

Huma’s red formal outfit serves as the ideal Christmas dress inspiration for you if you are not a fan of fancy attire and prefer a sleek and refined look. Whether it’s a casual gathering or a formal function, pantsuits look great on any occasion. In addition to being fashionable, it will also keep you warm. She looks great with a full-sleeved crimson jacket with a wide horizontal white stripe at the bust and straight-fit ankle leggings. For the best appearance, pair it with stud earrings and minimal makeup. Sara is a diva and she is slaying fashion goals in her little red dress with white frills.

If you wish to grab all the attention at the Christmas party then take cues from Sara and choose a red hot bodycon thigh-high slit little dress. Pair it up with a matching red jacket for the glam look and you will be ready to rock the Christmas party.

Among all the divas, Rakul Preet Singh is one of the most fashionable. The actress always dresses well, whether it’s in a gorgeous gown, party attire, or just something that’s too ethnic. Her red corset-style dress is stunning and a must-have for your Christmas wardrobe. It has an off-the-shoulder design, full sleeves, and a fitting nature. To get the glam look, wear it with pointed shoes and diamond drop earrings.

Talking about fashion and style and not mentioning Deepika Padukone is not fair. The queen of Bollywood looks amazing no matter what she wears. If you are tired of wearing dresses and gowns and want to try something different, her vibrant red power suit that exudes boss-woman energy is the ideal outfit inspiration. Her quirky bralette, which had a crisscross neckline, was polished off with a layer of preppy flair thanks to the oversized blazer’s design.

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