The Academician and the Elephant: an adventure in the wilds of Wasgamuwa

By ACB Pethiyagoda

Accounts of conflicts in remote jungle areas between man and elephant appear in our newspapers regularly. They make sad reading – man and beast each fighting a never ending battle for survival under increasingly difficult circumstances. There are then accounts of people getting killed, seriously injured or narrowly escaping when on tour in parks, sanctuaries and even outside these while seeking entertainment from seeing animals in their natural habitat. And then, of course, we’ve been inundated with press articles about the two baby elephants taken forcibly from Pinnawela to Kandy.

With elephants so much in the news, an incident came to mind a few weeks ago listening to a brilliant academician at a seminar in Colombo. This academician, a friend of many years, had been living abroad for a long time excelling in his studies and profession. On his return he had an almost insatiable thirst for travel – off the beaten track – the more remote the better.

He always drove a new Honda Civic. We had traveled before from Colombo on several occasions to all parts of Badulla, Puttalam, Hambantota and Ampara districts. After a while he appeared to have had his fill of seeing outlying areas except, sadly, the Great Basses. He then focused his mind on seeing as much wild life as possible. The first attempt was to Wasgamuwa leaving very early in the morning of February 1, 1997 through Kandy and Hasalaka.

On reaching the sanctuary, for our good luck we met several friends who invited us to share their lunch after a refreshing and welcome river bath.

Now for the tour. My friend was demanding from the tracker assigned to us and seated in the front passenger seat of the car that he MUST show us bear, elephant and leopard. Being somewhat superstitious and having learned from previous journeys and holidays in jungles all over the country, a cautious note was sounded by me from the rear left seat.

One should never mention the names of animals in their domain and no definite intentions should be announced of anything; arrival times, places etc. If at all vague reference could be made and that too not unless very necessary.

My friend could not be bothered with age old superstitious and beliefs. All he believed in was what was scientifically, mathematically or logically proved. So he repeatedly kept asking our respected guide where the animals were hiding that day as he had been told the place was teeming with them! The tracker, trying to make his presence worthwhile to us, said that an elephant with an impressive record of wrenching buffers off jeeps and overturning vans with passengers and other such feats was roaming in the particular area and if we were lucky we could see it.

My friend wanted to see that animal SOMEHOW! Driving along for a while we suddenly saw in a clearing to our left a huge brute of a cow elephant and a baby not 50 yards away. Both men and beasts were surprised, froze stock still for a fraction of a second and then the animal raised its trunk high, bellowed and charged the car, gave it a thundering whack, turned and lumbered back to where it came from, disappearing into the jungle with the baby following.

All this while, with the animal charging and then retreating, our guardian the tracker kept yelling “Aliya Aliya” and stamping his feet on the floor board as if in a trance. Although sprayed with glass splinters I tugged at the man’s hair from behind and yelled at him to stop his useless shouting and direct us by the shortest route to the park office.

On the way I noticed that my companion was shaken but driving ever so confidently. The tracker was making excuses for his failed manthra- he need not have bothered to do so as there was enough evidence of his absolute uselessness. The top half of the rear left door was almost inside the car and its glass all over the seat and floor.

On arrival at the office we found our friends who had been following us, already there having seen the incident and marveling that we were all in one piece and my friend’s almost casual appearance.

The park officials were frantically looking for their man for an official report on the incident – he had fled without a trace.

A few superficial cuts were attended to, a hasty drink swallowed and all agreed that the man in the rear seat had escaped death or serious injury by the proverbial hairs breadth; he gave thanks, and still does to the gods whom he venerates.

My friend and I were too shaken and shocked to talk except a few words now and then on the long drive back to Kandy. At the reception foyer of the Citadel Hotel an acquaintance, also checking in, noticed our disheveled appearance and queried whether we were after a long journey. When told we were returning from Wasgamuwa he said there was a very dangerous lone elephant there. Didn’t we know!!

(This article first appeared in this newspaper on Aug. 9, 2009)