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More on leopards, two beautiful plains and camping in the wild

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by Walter R. Gooneratne

(continued from last week)

As this would be our last day, we decided to trek to two fabulous places as described by Babun. There were two large plains called Waraketiya and Dananayake Eliya. They were about six miles from camp towards Muduntalawa. The track was again riddled with fresh pug marks of leopard, but no animals were seen. As it was still drizzling, they were probably taking cover in the jungle.

After about two hours of walking, we came to Waraketiya Eliya (eliya =plain). It was a large plain about 200 yards wide and bounded by two streams, Kumbukpitia Ara on the west and Suandandan Ara on the east. While walking through the swampy plain we surprised a herd of wild buffaloes wallowing in a mud hole. Fortunately, they bolted in panic on seeing us. Except for a few peafowl, no animals were seen in the plain. The two streams coalesced to form the Dharage Ara. We followed this stream for some distance and came upon Dananayake plain, which was much larger than Waraketiya Eliya.

An elephant was browsing on the branches of a tree. We watched it for a little while and then made a detour downwind. We then went on to explore the vast plain. In a water-hole, a large sounder of wild boar, accompanied by numerous sucklings was feeding on the yams of lotus, so dear to them. Wild boar flesh was what we wanted to take back home, and here was our chance. They ignored us and continued to feed, while Babun and Pervey were debating on which was the fattest. Having made his choice, Pervey fired on a big fat boar with his rifle. At the shot, the whole sounder took flight, including the targeted animal.

I thought he had missed it and was about to fire again, when he collapsed and died a short distance away. We now regretted our decision not to bring the jeep as we would now have to carry the heavy burden ourselves, The pig was cut into two and each half slung on a pole. Pervey and Babun took one half, and Mackie and I the other. As young doctors, our funds were limited; hence the sparing use of the jeep.

As we were returning, a short distance from Waraketiya, some monkeys were calling to our right. Babun said they were calling on account of a leopard, and wanted me to come with him. Glad to be relieved of my burden even for a short while, I dropped the carcass and followed him. A huge bear was ambling towards us. I fired at him with the rifle and unfortunately hit him in the middle of his spine.. His hind limbs were paralysed and he came crawling on his forelimbs, yelling blue murder. My rifle had two triggers. The rear one had to be squeezed first to activate the front or hair trigger. In my excitement I had squeezed the front trigger and the bullet ploughed harmlessly into the ground. My magazine was now empty. Fortunately, Pervey came running up and gave the wounded animal the coup-de-grace. It was a huge male bear.

As it would be impossible to carry both carcasses, to my immediate relief it was decided to go back to camp, refresh ourselves with a bath and lunch, and bring the jeep to take the prizes home. We hoped no marauding leopard would deprive us of our pork before we came back. When we arrived in camp, the cook was missing, and the food had not been cooked, We were worried if any mishap had befallen him. When we called him, he sheepishly answered from the top of a nearby tree. He himself did not know how he was able to shin up the tree, as he had much difficulty in coming down even with our help. He explained what had happened.

Shortly after we left, he had set about preparing our midday meal with his back to the track. Suddenly there was a blood curdling sound from behind. At first he had thought it was a devil bird, but on turning round he saw the devil himself in the form of a bear screaming obscenities (as described by him) and tearing away into the jungle in the opposite direction. The next thing he knew was that he found himself up the tree. What had happened was that the bear had come ambling down the track and accidentally trod on the embers of the previous night’s camp-fire.

After lunch we took the jeep and brought back the carcasses, which fortunately were untouched.

Our last evening was spent with Babun skinning the bear and Mackie taking a rest. Pervey and I walked to Thalakola Wewa, but saw nothing to interest us. The next day we bade farewell to our new-found friend, Babun and returned to Kandy about 10 that night. The first person to greet us the next morning was old Seetin Singho. He, like Shylock, had come for his pound of kara mus, which he received with much glee.

In those days, there was a visitor’s book kept at the park office at Yala, where those who entered its precincts wrote their comments. My entry in the visitor’s book about this trip was displayed about a couple of years ago in the museum at the Park office. Later it was replaced by the entries of a similar trip by the Hon. D.S.Senanayake and his party, which if I remember right, included the late Mr. Sam Elapata. On inquiry from the park officials, I was informed that they were unable to trace my entry.

Leopard at Kumana

For quite sometime I had been contemplating visiting Kumana as I had heard so much about its famed bird sanctuary, enormous herds of deer and other attractions. My usual companions, Pervey Lawrence and Mackie Ratwatte were not free to join me when the opportunity came quite unexpectedly when my friend, the late Dr. Ivor Obeysekera suggested that we make a trip to Kumana. Of course I jumped at it.

The party consisted of Ivor, his wife, my wife Nirmalene and myself. At 3.30 am on April 12, 1956 we left Kandy in an old Willys jeep and a trailer that Ivor had borrowed from a friend. We had obtained permits from the Department of Wildlife (as it was then called) to shoot peafowl, jungle fowl, deer and leopard. Ivor had not used a gun before and did not own one. I had with me my usual armoury of weapons, namely a 7.9 mm Mauser, a Webley, Scott double-barrel shot gun and .22 calibre Hornet.

Bellowing crocodiles

In those days there was very little traffic, specially at that hour, and the roads were well maintained. After a pleasant drive we arrived in Batticaloa about 8 am for breakfast at my brother’s home. After a sumptuous meal we left for Pottuvil and Kumana on the coastal road. The next stop was just past Komari in the shade of a huge mara tree for a packeted lunch provided by my brother. About ten yards from where we were, was a culvert, and suddenly there came a loud booming sound from its direction. We were at a loss to realize what it could be. I had not heard anything like this before. I picked up my rifle and walked cautiously to investigate. I was stunned by what I saw. There, lying in the shallow water was a medium-sized crocodile bellowing away. As it was half submerged, bubbles of air billowed out of the sides of its mouth. I beckoned to the others to come up, but as soon as they peeped over, the creature saw us and crept into the culvert.

This is the first time I had heard this sound. I heard this call once more when going down the Mahaweli in the company of Mr. Thilo Hoffman and a few others. At one point we found a nest of baby crocodiles, probably a day or two old. One of our party picked up a few of them in his folded shirt. Their squealing alerted the mother who came charging through the water from nearby. He dropped the hatchlings and bolted for dear life. The mother then came up to the nest and sent out her bellowing call warning all and sundry to keep away from her family. We did not waste much time on the way and traveled through Pottuvil and Panama. At Halawa we saw an elephant feeding some distance from the road and left him undisturbed.

Old warriors

We arrived at Okanda without further incident and met the ranger, Peter Jayawardene for the first time. This was the beginning of a lifelong friendship with a most colourful character. The legendry Garuwa was to be our guide and tracker. He had as his assistant Wasthuwa, an equally experienced jungle man. As it was getting late, Garuwa decided that we camp for the night at Itikala Kalapuwa. At that time of the evening, the surface of the kalapuwa or lagoon glistened like a sheet of molten silver. Putting up camp was a simple affair. A rope was tied between two trees and a tarpaulin slung over it and the four corners tethered to convenient trees. Four camp beds completed the five-star comfort.

All the day’s fatigue and grime were washed away in the cool water of the nearby kema or rock water-hole. After a stiff sundowner, we were treated to a delicious dinner of rice, pol sambol, which is a mixture of mainly chilli powder and coconut scrapings, homemade ambulthial, which is a traditional fish curry and dhal or lentil curry prepared by the wives, ably assisted by Wasthuwa.

Bait for the leopard

As Garuwa was keen that we shoot an animal as bait for leopard, as well as for the pot, we left camp at about 6 am. He suggested that we walk, since the jeep would disturb the animals. The wives insisted on accompanying us. We walked till about 7.30 and the sun was getting uncomfortably hot, but we had not seen any worthwhile animal except a lone elephant in the distance. I suggested that we go back to camp, have breakfast and go for a drive by jeep. However, Garuwa said that there was a good water-hole fairly close by and it may be worth checking.

A good 10 minutes’ walk brought us to a circular muddy pond about 40 yards in diameter. Peeping through the foliage, we saw a large sambhur stag wallowing in the mud. It died immediately it was shot, and as we had to bring the jeep and trailer to take back the carcass, I volunteered to walk back with Wasthuwa and bring these.

When we came back, Garuwa suggested that we go back to the village and pick up a young lad who could cook, thus relieving the ladies from that chore. This turned out to be a real blessing. He was a young man of about 20 years, and not only was he an excellent cook but also a very willing and efficient worker. We nicknamed him Kadisara, meaning quick-acting.

After breakfast, the carcass was divided in two. The head and the upper part of the thorax, which were to be the leopard bait, were tied to the jeep and dragged to the site where it was to be secured. A prowling leopard had a better chance of spotting the drag mark and finding the kill. The site for the bait was at a point about 20 yards down the track leading to the Kumana tank, on the edge of the forest. This area was open country, but about 30 yards further down, the road ended in high forest.

It was earlier decided to move camp to the regular site on the banks of Kumbukkan Oya, but as it was too sunny, we decided to postpone the operation for the cool of the evening. As it was now about 11 am, Garuwa suggested that we catch some crabs to add variety to our lunch. He cut a stake about three feet long and sharpened it to a point at one end. He then took us to Itikala Kalapuwa. Having alighted from the vehicle, he asked me to come with him to the water of the lagoon, which was only about a foot deep near the edge. Peering into the water, he showed me a crab and spiked it with the stake. Seven crabs were thus captured.

Having come back to the camp, we had a bath in the kema and rounded off with a glass of ice-cold beer. In no time Kadisara prepared a delicious lunch with venison and crab curry. As there was no murunga in the jungle, he picked up some leaves from the kara plant, if I remember right, to flavour the crab curry. A well earned siesta was taken before the evening’s chores.

Camp was soon dismantled, the jeep and trailer were loaded and we were on our way to the new camp site, which we reached at about 5 pm. What a beautiful spot it was. There was a wide expanse of river before us with its banks lined with lofty kumbuk trees, which spread their canopy over us like a giant umbrella.

(Excerpted from Jungle Journeys in Sri Lanka Experiences and encounters Edited by CG Uragoda)



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A plural society requires plural governance

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The local government elections that took place last week saw a consolidation of the democratic system in the country.  The government followed the rules of elections to a greater extent than its recent predecessors some of whom continue to be active on the political stage.  Particularly noteworthy was the absence of the large-scale abuse of state resources, both media and financial, which had become normalised under successive governments in the past four decades.  Reports by independent election monitoring organisations made mention of this improvement in the country’s democratic culture.

In a world where democracy is under siege even in long-established democracies, Sri Lanka’s improvement in electoral integrity is cause for optimism. It also offers a reminder that democracy is always a work in progress, ever vulnerable to erosion and needs to be constantly fought for. The strengthening of faith in democracy as a result of these elections is encouraging.  The satisfaction expressed by the political parties that contested the elections is a sign that democracy in Sri Lanka is strong.  Most of them saw some improvement in their positions from which they took reassurance about their respective futures.

The local government elections also confirmed that the NPP and its core comprising the JVP are no longer at the fringes of the polity.  The NPP has established itself as a mainstream party with an all-island presence, and remarkably so to a greater extent than any other political party.  This was seen at the general elections, where the NPP won a majority of seats in 21 of the country’s 22 electoral districts. This was a feat no other political party has ever done. This is also a success that is challenging to replicate. At the present local government elections, the NPP was successful in retaining its all-island presence although not to the same degree.

Consolidating Support

Much attention has been given to the relative decline in the ruling party’s vote share from the 61 percent it secured in December’s general election to 43 percent in the local elections. This slippage has been interpreted by some as a sign of waning popularity. However, such a reading overlooks the broader trajectory of political change. Just three years ago, the NPP and its allied parties polled less than five percent nationally. That they now command over 40 percent of the vote represents a profound transformation in voter preferences and political culture. What is even more significant is the stability of this support base, which now surpasses that of any rival. The votes obtained by the NPP at these elections were double those of its nearest rival.

The electoral outcomes in the north and east, which were largely won by parties representing the Tamil and Muslim communities, is a warning signal that ethnic conflict lurks beneath the surface. The success of the minority parties signals the different needs and aspirations of the ethnic and religious minority electorates, and the need for the government to engage more fully with them.  Apart from the problems of poverty, lack of development, inadequate access to economic resources and antipathy to excessive corruption that people of the north and east share in common with those in other parts of the country, they also have special problems that other sections of the population do not have. These would include problems of military takeover of their lands, missing persons and persons incarcerated for long periods either without trial or convictions under the draconian Prevention of Terrorism Act (which permits confessions made to security forces to be made admissible for purposes of conviction) and the long time quest for self-rule in the areas of their predominance

The government’s failure to address these longstanding issues with urgency appears to have caused disaffection in electorate in the north and east. While structural change is necessarily complex and slow, delays can be misinterpreted as disinterest or disregard, especially by minorities already accustomed to marginalisation. The lack of visible progress on issues central to minority communities fosters a sense of exclusion and deepens political divides. Even so, it is worth noting that the NPP’s vote in the north and east was not insignificant. It came despite the NPP not tailoring its message to ethnic grievances. The NPP has presented a vision of national reform grounded in shared values of justice, accountability, development, and equality.

Translating electoral gains into meaningful governance will require more than slogans. The failure to swiftly address matters deemed to be important by the people of those areas appears to have cost the NPP votes amongst the ethnic and religious minorities, but even here it is necessary to keep matters in perspective.  The NPP came first in terms of seats won in two of the seven electoral districts of the north and east.  They came second in five others. The fact that the NPP continued to win significant support indicates that its approach of equity in development and equal rights for all has resonance. This was despite the Tamil and Muslim parties making appeals to the electorate on nationalist or ethnic grounds.

Slow Change

Whether in the north and east or outside it, the government is perceived to be slow in delivering on its promises.  In the context of the promise of system change, it can be appreciated that such a change will be resisted tooth and nail by those with vested interests in the continuation of the old system.  System change will invariably be resisted at multiple levels.  The problem is that the slow pace of change may be seen by ethnic and religious minorities as being due to the disregard of their interests.  However, the system change is coming slow not only in the north and east, but also in the entire country.

At the general election in December last year, the NPP won an unprecedented number of parliamentary seats in both the country as well as in the north and east.  But it has still to make use of its 2/3 majority to make the changes that its super majority permits it to do.  With control of 267 out of 339 local councils, but without outright majorities in most, it must now engage in coalition-building and consensus-seeking if it wishes to govern at the local level. This will be a challenge for a party whose identity has long been built on principled opposition to elite patronage, corruption and abuse of power rather than to governance. General Secretary of the JVP, Tilvin Silva, has signaled a reluctance to form alliances with discredited parties but has expressed openness to working with independent candidates who share the party’s values. This position can and should be extended, especially in the north and east, to include political formations that represent minority communities and have remained outside the tainted mainstream.

In a plural and multi-ethnic society like Sri Lanka, democratic legitimacy and effective governance requires coalition-building. By engaging with locally legitimate minority parties, especially in the north and east, the NPP can engage in principled governance without compromising its core values. This needs to be extended to the local government authorities in the rest of the country as well. As the 19th century English political philosopher John Stuart Mill observed, “The worth of a state in the long run is the worth of the individuals composing it,” and in plural societies, that worth can only be realised through inclusive decision-making.

by Jehan Perera

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Commercialising research in Sri Lanka – not really the healthiest thing for research

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Image credit University of Sydney

In the early 2000s, a colleague, returning to Sri Lanka after a decade in a research-heavy first world university, complained to me that ‘there is no research culture in Sri Lanka’. But what exactly does having a ‘research culture’ mean? Is a lot of funding enough? What else has stopped us from working towards a productive and meaningful research culture? A concerted effort has been made to improve the research culture of state universities, though there are debates about how healthy such practices are (there is not much consideration of the same in private ‘universities’ in Sri Lanka but that is a discussion for another time). So, in the 25 years since my colleague bemoaned our situation, what has been happening?

What is a ‘research culture’?

A good research culture would be one where we – academics and students – have the resources to engage productively in research. This would mean infrastructure, training, wholesome mentoring, and that abstract thing called headspace. In a previous Kuppi column, I explained at length some of the issues we face as researchers in Sri Lankan universities, including outdated administrative regulations, poor financial resources, and such aspects. My perspective is from the social sciences, and might be different to other disciplines. Still, I feel that there are at least a few major problems that we all face.

Number one: Money is important.

Take the example American universities. Harvard University, according to Harvard Magazine, “received $686.5 million in federally sponsored research grants” for the fiscal year of 2024 but suddenly find themselves in a bind because of such funds being held back. Research funds in these universities typically goes towards building and maintenance of research labs and institutions, costs of equipment, material and other resources and stipends for graduate and other research assistants, conferences, etc. Without such an infusion of money towards research, the USA would not have been able to attracts (and keeps) the talent and brains of other countries. Without a large amount of money dedicated for research, Sri Lankan state universities, too, will not have the research culture it yearns for. Given the country’s austere economic situation, in the last several years, research funds have come mainly from self-generated funds and treasury funds. Yet, even when research funds are available (they are usually inadequate), we still have some additional problems.

Number two: Unending spools of red tape

In Sri Lankan universities red tape is endless. An MoU with a foreign research institution takes at least a year. Financial regulations surrounding the award and spending of research grants is frustrating.

Here’s a personal anecdote. In 2018, I applied for a small research grant from my university. Several months later, I was told I had been awarded it. It comes to me in installments of not more than Rs 100,000. To receive this installment, I must submit a voucher and wait a few weeks until it passes through various offices and gains various approvals. For mysterious financial reasons, asking for reimbursements is discouraged. Obviously then, if I were working on a time-sensitive study or if I needed a larger amount of money for equipment or research material, I would not be able to use this grant. MY research assistants, transcribers, etc., must be willing to wait for their payments until I receive this advance. In 2022, when I received a second advance, the red tape was even tighter. I was asked to spend the funds and settle accounts – within three weeks. ‘Should I ask my research assistants to do the work and wait a few weeks or months for payment? Or should I ask them not to do work until I get the advance and then finish it within three weeks so I can settle this advance?’ I asked in frustration.

Colleagues, who regularly use university grants, frustratedly go along with it; others may opt to work with organisations outside the university. At a university meeting, a few years ago, set up specifically to discuss how young researchers could be encouraged to do research, a group of senior researchers ended the meeting with a list of administrative and financial problems that need to be resolved if we want to foster ‘a research culture’. These are still unresolved. Here is where academic unions can intervene, though they seem to be more focused on salaries, permits and school quotas. If research is part of an academic’s role and responsibility, a research-friendly academic environment is not a privilege, but a labour issue and also impinges on academic freedom to generate new knowledge.

Number three: Instrumentalist research – a global epidemic

The quality of research is a growing concern, in Sri Lanka and globally. The competitiveness of the global research environment has produced seriously problematic phenomena, such as siphoning funding to ‘trendy’ topics, the predatory publications, predatory conferences, journal paper mills, publications with fake data, etc. Plagiarism, ghost writing and the unethical use of AI products are additional contemporary problems. In Sri Lanka, too, we can observe researchers publishing very fast – doing short studies, trying to publish quickly by sending articles to predatory journals, sending the same article to multiple journals at the same time, etc. Universities want more conferences rather than better conferences. Many universities in Sri Lanka have mandated that their doctoral candidates must publish journal articles before their thesis submission. As a consequence, novice researchers frequently fall prey to predatory journals. Universities have also encouraged faculties or departments to establish journals, which frequently have sub-par peer review.

Alongside this are short-sighted institutional changes. University Business Liankage cells, for instance, were established as part of the last World Bank loan cycle to universities. They are expected to help ‘commercialise’ research and focuses on research that can produce patents, and things that can be sold. Such narrow vision means that the broad swathe of research that is undertaken in universities are unseen and ignored, especially in the humanities and social sciences. A much larger vision could have undertaken the promotion of research rather than commercialisation of it, which can then extend to other types of research.

This brings us to the issue of what types of research is seen as ‘relevant’ or ‘useful’. This is a question that has significant repercussions. In one sense, research is an elitist endeavour. We assume that the public should trust us that public funds assigned for research will be spent on worth-while projects. Yet, not all research has an outcome that shows its worth or timeliness in the short term. Some research may not be understood other than by specialists. Therefore, funds, or time spent on some research projects, are not valued, and might seem a waste, or a privilege, until and unless a need for that knowledge suddenly arises.

A short example suffices. Since the 1970s, research on the structures of Sinhala and Sri Lankan Tamil languages (sound patterns, sentence structures of the spoken versions, etc.) have been nearly at a standstill. The interest in these topics are less, and expertise in these areas were not prioritised in the last 30 years. After all, it is not an area that can produce lucrative patents or obvious contributions to the nation’s development. But with digital technology and AI upon us, the need for systematic knowledge of these languages is sorely evident – digital technologies must be able to work in local languages to become useful to whole populations. Without a knowledge of the structures and sounds of local languages – especially the spoken varieties – people who cannot use English cannot use those devices and platforms. While providing impetus to research such structures, this need also validates utilitarian research.

This then is the problem with espousing instrumental ideologies of research. World Bank policies encourage a tying up between research and the country’s development goals. However, in a country like ours, where state policies are tied to election manifestos, the result is a set of research outputs that are tied to election cycles. If in 2019, the priority was national security, in 2025, it can be ‘Clean Sri Lanka’. Prioritising research linked to short-sighted visions of national development gains us little in the longer-term. At the same time, applying for competitive research grants internationally, which may have research agendas that are not nationally relevant, is problematic. These are issues of research ethics as well.

Concluding thoughts

In moving towards a ‘good research culture’, Sri Lankan state universities have fallen into the trap of adopting some of the problematic trends that have swept through the first world. Yet, since we are behind the times anyway, it is possible for us to see the damaging consequences of those issues, and to adopt the more fruitful processes. A slower, considerate approach to research priorities would be useful for Sri Lanka at this point. It is also a time for collective action to build a better research environment, looking at new relationships and collaborations, and mentoring in caring ways.

(Dr. Kaushalya Perera teaches at the Department of English, University of Colombo)

Kuppi is a politics and pedagogy happening on the margins of the lecture hall that parodies, subverts, and simultaneously reaffirms social hierarchies.

By Kaushalya Perera

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Melantha …in the spotlight

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Fun mode for Melantha Perera and Allwyn H. Stephen

Melantha Perera, who has been associated with many top bands in the past, due to his versatility as a musician, is now enjoying his solo career, as well … as a singer.

He was invited to perform at the first ever ‘Noon2Moon’ event, held in Dubai, at The Huddle, CityMax Hotel, on Saturday, 3rd May.

It was 15 hours of non-stop music, featuring several artistes, with Melantha (the only Sri Lankan on the show), doing two sets.

According to reports coming my way, ‘Noon2Moon’ turned out to be the party of the year, with guests staying back till well past 3.00 am, although it was a 12.00 noon to 3.00 am event.

Having Arabic food

Melantha says he enjoyed every minute he spent on stage as the crowd, made up mostly of Indians, loved the setup.

“I included a few Sinhala songs as there were some Sri Lankans, as well, in the scene.”

Allwyn H. Stephen, who is based in the UAE, was overjoyed with the success of ‘Noon2Moon’.

Says Allwyn: “The 1st ever Noon2Moon event in Dubai … yes, we delivered as promised. Thank you to the artistes for the fab entertainment, the staff of The Huddle UAE , the sound engineers, our sponsors, my supporters for sharing and supporting and, most importantly, all those who attended and stayed back till way past 3.00 am.”

Melantha:
Dubai and
then Oman

Allwyn, by the way, came into the showbiz scene, in a big way, when he featured artistes, live on social media, in a programme called TNGlive, during the Covid-19 pandemic.

After his performance in Dubai, Melantha went over to Oman and was involved in a workshop – ‘Workshop with Melantha Perera’, organised by Clifford De Silva, CEO of Music Connection.

The Workshop included guitar, keyboard and singing/vocal training, with hands-on guidance from the legendary Melantha Perera, as stated by the sponsors, Music Connection.

Back in Colombo, Melantha will team up with his band Black Jackets for their regular dates at the Hilton, on Fridays and Sundays, and on Tuesdays and Thursdays at Warehouse, Vauxhall Street.

Melantha also mentioned that Bright Light, Sri Lanka’s first musical band formed entirely by visually impaired youngsters, will give their maiden public performance on 7th June at the MJF Centre Auditorium in Katubadda, Moratuwa.

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