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Jungle adventure camping at Hendikema

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By CG Uragoda

(Continued from last week)

We camped under the trees about 100 yards from the water-hole at Hendikema. We slept in hammocks, while our baggage was stored in a small tent erected by the side. Deer and jungle fowl were occasionally seen from the camp. Thanks to the shooting abilities of my friends, all our meals had a share of venison or jungle fowl. The latter was, incidentally, a tough meat. Jungle fowl were always on the run or flapping in the air, and this constant exercise would make their muscles strong and tough when compared to the domestic birds.

We spent nearly a week at Hendikema, and during this period the only other human beings we saw were a party in a jeep that went past our camp. A short time later, the vehicle returned the same way. The man in the vehicle, who was armed with a gun, was recognized as the Chief Magistrate of Colombo, who was very likely camping off Galge. The absence of any other human beings during the whole week spoke of the utter seclusion of our campsite.

Water supply

It is important that a campsite should have a regular source of water. Our original plan to camp at Veddange Vadiya was partly determined by this requirement. The camp would have been erected by the Menik Ganga, which would have supplied water to the camp, as well as provided facilities for bathing. Another reason was the concentration of animals around the water when they came to drink. Heavy rain, however, had negated this expectation, for plenty of water was now available everywhere and animals would not necessarily come to the river to quench their thirst.

The campsite at Hendikema had access to two sources of water. Water for camp use, such as cooking, drinking and making tea and coffee, came from the small water-hole. It was obtained with the help of the ever-present coconut shell ladle, one shellful at a time. It took a pretty long time for a vessel to be filled. It was not possible to have a bath with such a slow supply of water. Fortunately for campers, there was a large natural water-hole a couple of hundred yards away in the thick jungle, off the Buttala-Kataragama track.

Water was easily accessible at this water-hole, which was situated in a large depression in the rock, bordered by overhanging boulders. Almost daily all of us used to walk there together, with a bucket in hand, and thoroughly enjoy a bath.

There were animal droppings on the rock around the water-hole, indicating that wild beasts, including elephant, bear and leopard, had visited the place. At the height of the drought, when the surrounding jungle was parched and the river was quite a distance away, this site would have provided the last haven for water for miles around.

Leopard

The objective of the entire trip was to shoot a leopard. It was to be achieved by providing bait in the form of a deer’s carcass. HD and the other two members of the party went out during the first two or three days and nights and shot some deer in accordance with the permit issued to them by the Department of Wildlife. It was hoped that these carcasses would attract leopard. The bodies were kept at strategic points, so that any leopard which was feeding on one of them could be shot by a person in hiding at a convenient spot.

Every day the three members of the party, either singly or in combination, and accompanied by the tracker, used to visit each of the carcasses. Only one was partly eaten by a leopard, but sitting over it that evening proved abortive. Ultimately, at the end of the trip they did not get a single leopard, and we made an uneventful return to Colombo.

Subsequent developments

In later years, Kataragama itself and the track to Buttala have undergone intensive changes. The suspension bridge across Menik Ganga at Kataragama was replaced by a permanent bridge. The earlier bridge used to swing to and fro when people walked on it in a similar way to the one across Mahaweli Ganga at the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens. At times the footing of the bridge, which was made of wooden planks, had gaps here and there, caused by these pieces falling due to wear and tear over the years.

Now no vehicles are allowed to drive across Menik Ganga at Kataragama. Built-up structures prevent their entry to the banks of the river. Commercial establishments are not allowed on the Uva side of the river where we had our memorable breakfast of hoppers and sambol. Instead, all shops, hotels and the like are situated on the opposite side of the river where there is a vehicle park.

In place of the cart or jeep track, there is now a fine highway from Buttala to Kataragama. This road is broad and well-carpeted, and the entire distance takes only 20 to 30 minutes by car. This is quite a contrast to the condition of the track prevailing at the time of our trip, when we took several hours travelling from Kataragama to Hendikema, a distance of about six miles.

Rediscovery of Hendikema

The new road did not exactly follow the old track we originally took. The two deviated a few hundred yards here and there, but both roads passed through Galge. On traveling along the new road, I tried to locate Hendikema several times for nostalgic reasons. On all these trips, I was accompanied by Dr Walter R Gooneratne, who himself had been to Hendikema in the days gone by. Once we stopped the vehicle and walked into the jungle, but the place eluded us.

In 1996, when we were staying at Dambakotte near Galge, we made another attempt, though trackers of the Department of Wildlife Conservation had not heard of Hendikema. Walter and I again went looking for the place. He identified a turn-off to Muduntalawa, which he remembered was close to Hendikema. He ultimately discovered the place, which was about a hundred yards from the main road. What faced us was a pitiable sight. Treasure hunters had apparently blasted the rock, and the water of the kema, which at the time was shut off from view, was now visible in its entirety. The tiny hole through which water was withdrawn with the help of a coconut shell ladle has been destroyed. There were pieces of blasted rock fallen all over the place.

We later heard that a tracker had discovered a few coins from the site. In fact, we saw a couple of coins at the bottom of the water-hole. These provided a possible explanation for the turn of events that led to the blasting of the rock. Treasure hunters, armed with metal detectors, would have received signals from the coins in the water-hole. Mistakenly thinking that these were emanating from hidden gold, they would have blasted the rock. In retrospect, these coins would have been the thank-offerings of pilgrims who would have quenched their thirst at the water-hole.

I noted the possible location of our old campsite, but we could not find the whereabouts of the other water-hole where we used to bathe. The tracker, who did not know of the existence of the water-hole, feared that bear or elephant might be lurking among the trees if we went in search of it in the thick jungle.

Intermediate Zone

Intermediate Zone was a buffer between cultivated land and National Parks or Strict Natural Reserves. Shooting under permit during the open season was allowed in these areas. Many doubted the advisability of having these zones.

When the issue of licenses to shoot any animal was totally banned since 1964, Intermediate Zones were abolished, and these were annexed to National Parks. The Intermediate Zone around Galge became Block 3 of the Ruhuna National Park.

Hambegamuwa to Kumana

I, along with three others, went by jeep in June 1964 to Karawelgala, which was 10 miles from Hambegamuwa. We turned off at Tanamalwila, and drove along a jeep track, which is a far cry from the road that now runs to Balangoda through Hambegamuwa and Uggal-Kaltota amidst beautiful scenery. Throughout our three-day stay, we were at the Karawelgala school by courtesy of its headmaster.

In 1955, Hambegamuwa became the focus of public attention as a result of large-scale illicit cultivation of ganja in the jungle. The army and the police were employed to carry out ‘Operation Ganja’, which was aimed at destroying plants and suppressing its cultivation. This campaign became a major issue at the 1956 general election, and the newly elected government appointed a commission to investigate it. We did not see any evidence of ganja, but the headmaster told us that the meat he served us was cooked with a touch of ganja in order to soften it.

The school was in the middle of the village, and we were told that a few days earlier a wild elephant raced along the road through the village. Inmates ran helter-skelter into their houses. However, we did not see any elephants during our stay, though we heard loud trumpeting behind the school. We rushed out, flashing our torches, but we failed to see the animal. We were told that such trumpeting was a frequent occurrence.

The next day we visited places of interest in Hambegamuwa where the tank was large and the view enticing. One of the archaeological sites we visited was a complex consisting of three large, naturally occurring water-holes, placed one below the other. They were connected to each other through two openings in between. When it rains, the water that runs along the sloping rocky slab above fills the uppermost tank.

The overflow from it then fills the second, and so on till the third is full. It may be imagined that the monks from the monastery used water from the top tank for drinking and cooking, while that from the lowest tank was employed for washing. In this way the best use of water would have been obtained, for if washing was done in the top tank, its overflow would have contaminated the contents of the two tanks below.



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Features

Excellent Budget by AKD, NPP Inexperience is the Government’s Enemy

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Anura Kumara Dissanayake

by Rajan Philips

President Anura Kumara Dissanayake has delivered an excellent first budget. It could easily be described as the best budget so far this century and presented in the most dire economic circumstances in Sri Lanka’s modern history. Following his consummate performance in parliament, the President waded into a post-budget forum and joined the country’s economic experts to “dissect new Govt’s maiden budget,” as headlined by the Daily FT, one of the sponsors of the event. Whether one agrees with him or not, there is no question that AKD has been listening to those who knows the subject, has diligently done his homework on the budget file, and knows what he is doing,.

The problem he faces is that he cannot be doing homework on every file for the entire government, and he must find a way to quickly address the collective inexperience of his cabinet. He should not let this inexperience become the enemy that kills the government from within. Hopefully, he will find a way to address this within the framework of the budget and in the delegation of ministerial responsibilities for its implementation.

Somewhere in the budget, the President refers to economic decentralization, to deconcentrate the top heavy Western Province. Unfortunately, the corollary of political decentralization could not find its place in the text. Equally important, the President should also pay attention to ‘cabinet federalisation’ (AJ Wilson’s description of one of DS Senanayake’s quite a few master traits), and more so as he moves ahead to implement the budget proposals.

Ultimately, the success of the budget will be measured in political terms. Read, electoral terms. AKD’s and NPP’s detractors will be winding themselves for political wrestling in the local and later the provincial council elections. The NPP could be expected to hold its ground, but not necessarily all two-thirds of it. It should not at all be strange if the NPP gains ground in the North and East even as it loses some of it in the South. To keep the inevitable losses to the minimum, the government must eschew any and all complacency, which, modifying Mao’s famous Redbook take on it, could be described as the enemy of elections.

Geopolitically, paraphrasing the French Marxist Regis Debray, the NPP government must have its overhead antennas fully alert, but its feet firmly planted on the ground in Sri Lanka. The government cannot avoid being distracted by the global tumults that Donald Trump is creating day in and day out. There will be ripples, even waves, around Sri Lanka depending on what the Modi government decides to do in India to harmonize with the Trump Administration in Washington. Even so, the government’s primary preoccupation in the context of the turmoil in America should be to protect for as long as possible Sri Lanka’s exports to the US which are significant for Sri Lanka’s forex earnings.

At the same time, and consistent with the budget objectives, even as it diversifies its exports the government must diversify its importers. For the next four years, as Trump unfolds his madness, there will be responsive realignments in the Global North even as there will be reconsolidations in the Global South. The NPP government will have to navigate Sri Lanka through these currents without being smothered by them.

There are of course the self-proclaimed Rajapaksa nationalists who want to hitch their broken political wagons in Sri Lanka to the passing hegemon in America. They are in fact ethno-narcissists just like – but writ-small – the racial narcissist that Trump is. Ridiculous as these forces and their politics might seem, indeed as they are, the government should not underestimate their potential to do harm even by accident. Look at Bangladesh to see how political fortunes can dissipate fast, even though the NPP government is in no way comparable to Sheikh Hasina’s rotten government. The eternal home truth is the quick rise and the quicker fall of Gotabaya Rajapaksa.

Setting the Budget Context

The budget speech outlines as its backdrop the 2022 economic crisis that has now become the Rajapaksa era legacy, and as its context the overwhelming verdict of the people in the 2024 presidential and parliamentary elections. In this context, the President calls the budget both “historic” and “challenging,” because the government has to not only lay the foundation for fulfilling the people’s aspirations, but also to dispel “the wrongful picture (of us) created by the myths and malicious political propaganda against our economic policy and vision.” “We have succeeded in that,” the President asserted.

The government has proved its expectant critics wrong and stabilized the economy. All the indicators confirm that – the relatively stable exchange rate at one USD for LKR 300, and not LKR 400 as recklessly scare mongered; the lowering of the Treasury bill rate (8.8%) and getting inflation under control; forex reserves rising past USD six billion; finalizing agreements over debt-restructuring; and most of all keeping essential goods available and avoiding queues. In fairness, the credit for starting the process of economic stabilization belongs to Ranil Wickremesinghe, but post-election expectations in political circles have been that things will start to unravel due to NPP’s inexperience and even incompetence. That did not happen, and President AKD and the NPP government are justified in claiming credit for it.

Mr. Wickremesinghe may have even fancied that another economic crisis this time under an NPP government would give him a second kick at the can of power. No such luck. RW is now part of a team of exes – former ministers and presidents including Maithripala Sirisena – trying to figure out a way to stay relevant in today’s politics. Looking at this aging crowd outside parliament and its slightly younger version in the opposition within parliament, the NPP might fancy its chances of retaining power for more than one cycle of elections. But what the NPP has to contend with ultimately will not be ill equipped politicians but a frustrated electorate.

Apart from President AKD’s versatile feats, the NPP government has little to show to keep the people contented. Recurring rice shortage, the shortfall in coconuts, and the power outage blamed on a monkey tripping off a transformer have certainly taken the shine off the government. Looked from the other end, rice, coconuts and the power outage seem to the only shortcomings that the government is being picked on by media pundits and the political class. But what should concern the NPP government is that any one of them (rice, coconut or power), all of them together, or any similar shortages or failures, are enough to rile the people and bring down a government. Not long ago, it was called aragalaya.

Budget as Political Reset

The budget speech lays down the principles underlying the government’s approach to the economy: sectoral growth sustained by participation and even distribution on the supply side; and balancing roles for the market and the government on the demand side. A GDP growth rate of 5% is targeted for the medium term, predicated on a strong export sector performance while maintaining price stability and ensuring social welfare. Promoting investments, leveraging logistics, revamping tourism, digital transformation of the economy, and unleashing SME potentials through new credit structures are highlighted as the main growth poles. Allocations for health, education, food security, and social benefits are intended to rebuild and strengthen country’s social welfare system.

There is emphasis on Regional Development, including the assurance of special programmes for the Eastern Province, the Malayaga Tamils, and the Northern Province, but there is no mention of Provincial Councils and Local Government bodies and their agency roles in regional development. Regional industrial zones are identified including the promotion of Chemical Manufacturing in Paranthan, KKS and Mankulam in the Northern Province, Galle in the South and Trincomalee in the East. If some of them were to materialize the North and East might be seeing state sponsored industrial activity after more than 70 years when GG Ponnamabalam was Minister of Industries and Fisheries.

Auto Parts and Rubber Products manufacturing is also identified for promotion through industrial zones. What is not clearly indicated is whether new regional industrial initiatives will be tied to the export sector without which they may not be viable, as past experience has shown. Also, on the export front there is no identification of specific products and target markets to match the significant export sector growth that is being championed. Generally, for industries, there should be guardrails for minimizing and mitigating adverse environmental effects.

The budget rightly focuses on the modernization of public transport. Specific projects are identified for bus transport in Colombo and for the rail sector, including the revamping and the extension of the KV Line, multi-modal transport terminal in Kandy, and the expansion of the Thambuththegama Railway Station to function as a hub for transporting agricultural products. Large scale transport projects and rail transport are invariably the responsibility of the central government, but bus transport operations including those in Colombo and Kandy are better assigned to provincial and even larger municipal governments.

The budget provides for settling the legacy debt of the Sri Lankan Airlines (SLA) in the hope that SLA would hereafter become a viable enterprise. For other SOEs, the budget is proposing the setting up of a Holding Company again with the hope of revitalizing the mostly under-performing State Owned Enterprises (SOEs). Whether this approach is motivated by patriotic sentiments or political calculations, there is little support for it from past experience, except for enterprises in the crucial servicing and energy sectors.

The budget gets quite specific in its proposals for the agricultural and food sectors, especially rice and coconuts. At long last, there is official admission at the highest level that there is no data and information system for the “entire value chain” from paddy production to rice consumption. There is no immediate solution to this except the assurance to find one through the ADB funded “Food Security Livelihood Emergency Assistance Project” and a related World Bank project.

Coconuts are easy to count and difficult to hide. Some 4,500 million nuts are the projected demand for 2030, with 2,700 for the coconut industry and 1,800 for household consumption – at one per household per day. The problem is with production and the budget is allocating money for high yielding seedlings to be used in a new Northern Coconut Triangle extending from the coconut rich Northwestern Province, recommended by the Coconut Research Institute and mirror imaging the long established Southern Coconut Triangle. Better later than never, even when it comes to nuts.

All in all, the budget provides a good framework for the NPP government to reset its political road map. To succeed, the resetting must involve delegations at the ministerial level and following through to local communities and political grassroots. Equally important will be the medium in between, and the challenge to the NPP government is in resurrecting and using the currently defunct provincial and local government agencies.

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The Murder of a Journalist

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By Anura Gunasekera

Commencing with Premakeerthi de Alwis in 1986 and concluding with Lasantha Wickrematunge in 2009, 40 accredited Sri Lankan journalists and media personnel, 31 of them of Tamil, have been murdered or died violently. Of these, 31 occurred between April 2004 and March 2009, during the Mahinda Rajapaksa tenure, initially as Prime Minister and then as President. His younger brother Gotabaya, later president himself, was the Defence Secretary of the country from 2005 to 2015.

During the above period, apart from those killed, many were abducted, assaulted and /or tortured, and intimidated in various other ways. A few left the country in fear of their lives. Most, if not all of those journalists, unsurprisingly, had been vocal critics of the government. With the defeat of the Rajapakse government in 2015, all harassment of journalists ceased, abruptly.

Of the above killings, those of Lasantha Wickrematunge (LW) and that of Richard de Zoysa in 1990, as well as the disappearance of Prageeth Ekneligoda in 2010 are, for a variety of reasons, not least the international outrage and condemnation, considered the most prominent. The most disturbing commonality across all these crimes is that none have been comprehensively investigated and the perpetrators punished.

In fact, despite pointers regarding the identity of the masterminds- circumstantial but compelling – and the very public nature of most of the actual incidents themselves, investigations have been either obstructed or stifled, through intimidation of potential witnesses, misleading autopsies, the enthusiastic pursuit of patently false lines of investigation, deliberately disingenuous official statements and, not infrequently, the suppression or disappearance of physical evidence.

The murder of Richard de Zoysa is again in the limelight on account of the recent film, “Rani”, although any hope of the crime being solved is almost zero. The murder of LW has been publicly profiled in the last few weeks, due to the order for the discharge, by the Attorney General (AG), of three suspects linked to events consequent to the murder, on the grounds of insufficient evidence.

Since the murder of LW, four successive governments have assured the country and the international community, that the case would be comprehensively investigated and those responsible punished. The slain Lasantha Wickrematunge had become an international metaphor for delayed justice. The present NPP government, led by president Anura Kumara Dissanayake, made the investigation of previously unsolved crimes, including that of Lasantha’s murder, and the cleansing of corrupt government systems, a cornerstone of its election manifesto. The sweeping victory of the NPP at the recent general elections was largely due to the faith that the electors placed in those promises.

Why is the case of Lasantha Wickrematunge so important?

Investigative Journalists play a vital role in maintaining a free and open society, by providing the public with critical information, holding power to account and exposing corruption and injustice. In that context, LW played a major role through his paper, “The Sunday Leader” which, week after week, exposed the massive corruption within the Rajapaksa regime, citing specific transactions and quite often linking acts of malfeasance to then President Mahinda Rajapaksa, his brother and Defence Secretary Gotabaya, or to close associates of the Rajapaksa family and the regime.

LW’s silence was worth more to the Rajapaksa family in particular, than to anybody else in the country. In fact, LW’s murder was apparently preceded by an unsuccessful attempt, in 2007, by Mahinda Rajapaksa himself, to broker the sale of the paper to an investor of his choice, the offer being made to Lal, LW’s brother (Page 234- Unbowed and Unafraid- Raine Wickrematunge). The only possible reason for a president of a country to personally seek the divestment of ownership of an outspoken newspaper, is control of its narrative content and direction.

Two years later Lasantha’s assassination paved the way for the exercise of this option.

In Sept 2012, businessman and alleged Rajapakse associate, Asanga Seneviratne, many of whose property development and investment deals had been criticized at various times by the “Leader”, bought a 72% stake in the “Leader” and its sister newspaper, “Iruresa”. In the same month Frederica Jansz, then editor of the “Leader” and long-time colleague of LW, was summarily dismissed from her position. In May 2015 the “Leader”, now under a decidedly Rajapaksa-friendly dispensation, tendered an unconditional apology to Gotabaya Rajapksa for a series of articles it had run, during LW’s tenure as editor, on the indisputably questionable method of purchase of MiG-27 aircraft from Ukraine, for the Sri Lanka Air Force. Udayanga Weeratunga, relative of the Rajapaksa family, as then Sri Lanka’s ambassador to Ukraine, allegedly played a major role in facilitating the said transaction. According to Ahimsa, LW’s daughter, LW was on the verge of exposing the highly complex and sordid details of the deal in entirety, when he was murdered (The MiG deal; Why My Father Had To Die- Groundviews-01/08/21).

The above is just one of the hundreds of expose’s featured by LW and he very rarely got it wrong. Very few other journalists in recent decades – the late Victor Ivan was one other- so courageously and in such minute detail, addressed the sins of those in power as LW did. They were issues that many journalists avoided, a self-regulation on truthful journalism brought about as a conditioned survival mechanism, in response to the brutal repression of those who dared to write the truth about power.

LW’s last writing- “Then They Came For Me”– published posthumously and now a classic of Asian journalism, was a chillingly prophetic prediction of his own death, pointing an accusatory finger at his erstwhile friend, then president Mahinda Rajapaksa.

The death of any human being diminishes society but the death of a fearless journalist, who holds a mirror to the foibles of society and power, diminishes our world in a special way; especially a world such as ours where leaders, irrespective of political colour, have proved to be treacherous, unreliable, corrupt, mercenary and nepotistic.

On the 27th of January, Parinda Ranasinghe Jr, Attorney General (AG) of Sri Lanka, ordered the release – citing lack of evidence to proceed with indictments – of Ananda Udalagama, implicated in the abduction in August 2009 of Karunaratne Dias, LW’s driver, and DIG Prasanna Nanayakkara and Sub-inspector Sugathapala, both implicated in the disappearance of a notebook recovered from LW’s vehicle after his murder. Consequent to immediate and widespread criticism and physical demonstrations against this order, it has since been rescinded.

In this episode the primary, indisputable principle, is that it is entirely at the AG’s discretion, to decide whether or not to charge a suspect, taking in to account the validity of admissible evidence available, and the prospect of securing a conviction. The political body has no right suggest a review of such a decision, or to compel the AG to consider such a review, irrespective of the importance of the case. At the same time it is also assumed that the AG and his department will carry out their duties impartially, irrespective of past loyalties – if any – and current personal prejudices, especially in relation to sensational cases involving those previously and currently in power.

Assuming that the release order was issued after a comprehensive analysis of the available evidence, the subsequent reversal is baffling, to say the least. Is it that the AG, or the legal officers responsible, consequent to a re-assessment of available material, suddenly realized that they had a made a serious error of judgment? Or did the AG’s department cave in to political and public pressure and decide to change its decision?

If the AG had braved both public and political displeasure and held fast to the original decision, it would have been perfectly acceptable and even commendable. However, it is now being reported in responsible mainstream newspapers, that the rescinding of the original decision is a response to a request by the Criminal Investigation Department (CID), to give it more time to act on the AG’s order, on account of the controversy surrounding the issue. The official version now appears to be that what is now in place is a suspension of the original decision, and not a reversal.

In the meantime, Ahimsa, through her publicized letter of February 14 to Anura Meddegoda, President of the Bar Association of Sri Lanka, has censured him for his hypocritical support of the AG and his position in this episode. She has supported her position by reference to Meddegoda’s protest against a similar order by the AG, under very similar circumstances, when it involved the murder of one Indika Prasad, allegedly by members of the Special Task Force. The interests of the victim’s wife were represented by Meddegoda.

Ahimsa has condemned the AG’s position in this matter, in the said letter citing seemingly convincing evidence available against the three suspects named earlier. She has even called for the impeachment of the AG, on the grounds that in ordering the discharge of the suspects, he has deliberately chosen to ignore vital evidence.

For an ordinary citizen such as the writer, with only a minimal understanding of criminal law, an analysis of the legal validity of the AG’s management of the case in question is not possible. But, still, to the writer and to several million other citizens who helped to bring the NPP in to power, the delivery of justice in matters of public corruption, politically motivated murders and similar crimes, are issues of supreme importance.

Fearless journalists such as Lasantha Wickrematunge paid with their lives for their reportage and public exposure of the crimes of the politically powerful. The justice for such crimes is owed, not only to the family members of the slain, but to the nation itself. It ceased to be a private, Wickrematunge family project a long time ago.

President AKD has steadfastly maintained that his regime will not interfere with ongoing legal processes, unlike previous regimes which seemed to often guide the hand of the law, in cases which featured those in power, unfavourably. However, what may be prudent and necessary, if justice is to be finally done, is intervention and course correction at critical stages, to ensure that public officers entrusted with relevant responsibilities do not lose sight of both the principle and the objective.

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My Dog Tosca

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My Dog Tosca

Michael Patrick O’Leary

We did not delude ourselves that we owned her. My title is a reference to JR Ackerley’s memoir, My Dog Tulip. JR Ackerley was adistinguished British man of letters. His dog was, in reality, a German Shepherd called Queenie. My Dog Tulip is an account of their sixteen-year companionship, as well as a meditation on the peculiarity of all relationships.

When we first moved to Sri Lanka in 2002, we rented a large plantation bungalow on the outskirts of Bandarawela in Uva province in the hill country. There were four huge bedrooms each with a large bathroom containing a deep bath with cast iron ball and claw feet. We strongly suspected that the house was haunted, but that is material for another article.

I noticed Tosca on my way to the kade. She had a horrible abscess hanging out of one eye but had a very benign expression. Dogs are not supposed to smile but she seemed to do so, beatifically. She seemed to take to us and, somewhat nervously, started approaching our house. One night we noticed her sleeping in a drain near the house and she was not alone. A female companion, who later became known as Daisy, was huddling with her for warmth.

We gradually adopted these two as our own, although we could not delude ourselves that we owned them.

Unfortunately, Tosca, in particular, became prey to the rampaging males of the area and was often subjected to gang-rape. One rather timid fellow we named The Suitor, was in flagrante when Hendrick, a disreputable one-eyed old roué of an ageing rock star who lived on the estate and considered he had prior rights, urinated on The Suitor in mid-coitus. Some people pay good money for that in Moscow hotels (allegedly).

The result of all this male attention was a litter of pups. One very small black and tan one died soon. Two of them were later found homes and given the names Lucky (a bad choice) and Sando (I had called him Tufton Bufton). More of those later. Silky remained with us and moved to a new with us.

When the pups were first born, Tosca was perhaps not an ideal mother. One got the feeling that she thought a different kind of life was her due. She remained rather plump after the pregnancy and she reminded me of one of those 1950s blonde pneumatic movie stars like Mamie van Doren or Jayne Mansfield (I’m showing my age here, readers). She would often abandon the pups and come to hide from them with us in the sit-out around the back of the house. The little monsters always managed to find her and squawk and bite and scratch at her abused undercarriage.

Luckily, we knew a good vet and she was able to perform surgery at our home to remove the abscess from the eye and to sterilise Tosca. A lot of veterinary attention was needed. On one occasion, she seemed very ill and was hiding in the bushes. The vet thought she might have been poisoned. We took her to the Veterinary Faculty at Peradeniya University in Kandy, where she was admitted for observation. Tosca loved motor travel. In fact, she demanded to get in the car whenever we went shopping. Children looked in and told their parents there was a beautiful dog in the car. She serenely took such compliments as her due. If she saw another dog passing by she would bark at it imperiously.

The journey to Peradeniya was not too difficult, but Tosca clearly did not think the accommodation at the veterinary faculty was up to the standards to which she had become accustomed. When we went to collect her after six days she was very huffy and walked briskly to a white car and demanded to be let in. Unfortunately, it was someone else’s car.

When we moved to our own house, Tosca, Daisy, Hendrick and Silky came with us. The intricate social dynamics of this ménage, particularly the antics of Tosca and Daisy in their lesbian love nest, must be the subject for another article (or scholarly thesis or porn movie). We retrieved Sando from his adoptive parents. He was no longer the grumpy fellow we had known before. He was now a perfect gentleman, which caused Silky to bully him mercilessly.

Tosca continued to enjoy her status as motor-mutt with the bonus of long walks through the tea estate and mud-baths, the dirtier the better. She is no longer with us. Like most street dogs, she once had a home with humans who abandoned her. She endured with dignity. She survived a long time after being diagnosed with mouth cancer. I am not ashamed of appearing sentimental when I say that I hope we added something to her life.

In the New York Review of Books, Catherine Schine reviewed an animated movie version of JR Ackerley’s memoir My Dog Tulip.

“What strained and anxious lives dogs must lead, so emotionally involved in the world of men, whose affections they strive endlessly to secure, whose authority they are expected unquestionably to obey, and whose mind they never can do more than imperfectly reach and comprehend. Stupidly loved, stupidly hated, acquired without thought, reared and ruled without understanding, passed on or ‘put to sleep’ without care, did they, I wondered, these descendants of the creatures who, thousands of years ago in the primeval forests, laid siege to the heart of man, took him under their protection, tried to tame him, and failed—did they suffer from headaches?”

(“Michael Patrick O’Leary is an Irish citizen who has lived in Sri Lanka with his Sri Lankan wife since since 2002.
More of his writing can be found on Substack. Please subscribe . It’s free! https://moleary.substack.com)

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