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Charged by an elephant at Wasgamuwa

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by Dianthi S. U. Wijeratne

I am grateful to my parents for encouraging me to appreciate nature. Both of them are great enthusiasts of wildlife and, as a result, our journeys to the wilds began at a very tender age.

One of my childhood memories is of an incident in 1973 where my family consisting of my parents, two brothers, sister and myself traveled to Yala in a car. At the time the roads were not like what they are in the park today. They were quite narrow and the surface was uneven. There was very little traffic unlike today.

I distinctly remember the tracker guiding my father into a little-used side-road. On the way we came across a large bull elephant, and the tracker told us that it was in musth. Usually bull elephants go through this process periodically when a thick fluid oozes from a gland between the eye and ear. Musth is an Urdu word which means `disoriented’. In other words, the elephant has no control over its mind. It is said that this period could last from a month to a year. During this time it makes the animal unpredictable and destructive, and is generally a time for it to attack whoever crosses its path.

As we were passing the animal it flapped its ears and the next thing we knew was that it was charging us. We children were small but excited and scared. My father was driving the car, and I remember my mother showing him the potholes in order to avoid them. However, in the excitement he drove over them, with much jolting of the vehicle. The tracker warned my parents that the road was a dead end, and this was not very soothing news, specially considering the situation we were in. Fortunately, by the time we turned and came back the angry elephant had retreated into the jungle much to the relief of all of us.

Camping at Wasgamuwa

As years went by we no longer traveled in cars to the jungle, but in four-wheel drive vehicles. In any case we were all grown up and could not be accommodated comfortably in a car. The trips too became more adventurous and exciting, with camping trips with family members and friends thrown in.

Our first trip to Wasgomuwa was in 1992 when we drove through the National Park on our way back from a trip to Polonnaruwa and a visit to the old Veddha chief, Uruwarigey Tissahamy in Dambane.

The Wasgamuwa Park is situated in the North Central Province in the extreme south-east corner of Tamankaduwa. It is bounded by the rivers, Mahaweli Ganga, Amban Ganga, Kalu Ganga and Wasgamuwa Oya, and was declared a National Park in August 1984. It was only in 1992 that it was opened to the public. Close to the park, on the way to Hasalaka, one would notice Minisgala which, as its name implies, is a rock depicting an upturned human face. The road to the park was in an appalling condition that year.

The only living creatures we managed to see in the park at that time were some deer and a python. The latter was on the main road within the park, and looked like a log. It was in the same position when we returned about an hour later. We did not have the privilege of seeing any elephants, though it was known to be a favourite habitat. The park was fairly new at the time and did not have any bungalows within for public use.

Yudaganawa

Within the park, a place with a historical significance was Yudaganawa, which is a vast plain with small black rocks visible here and there. The main road within the park passed through it. It was believed to be the venue of King Dutugemunu’s famous battle with King Elara, where the latter was defeated. In the mornings, when the sun shines at an angle, the glare from the pebbles is red, and legend attributes this colour to the blood of soldiers killed or wounded in the battle at this site.

My father had visited the dispensary in Marake on official duty about 35 years ago. The apothecary, as well as some of his officials had told him at the time, that elephants often visited the area, and a place called Yudaganawa, where an ancient battle took place, was only a short distance away from the dispensary.

I heard from Dr. Walter R. Gooneratne that the dispensary has since been moved to a new place, and that the old dispensary building, which my father had visited, had later been converted into a bungalow within the Wasgamuwa National Park, close to its entrance.

Camping

Our second visit to Wasgamuwa Park was on a camping trip. This meant that more effort was needed when planning out the menus, bedding, tents, camping gear and so on. We set off early in the morning, as we always did. I remember that the main road to the park was in a much better condition than on the previous occasion. We reached the park by afternoon. I expected the campsite to be similar to the one at Yala, but it was not up to that standard.

In Wasgamuwa there was actually nothing to indicate that it was a campsite. As always, each of us had a task to perform. We contributed by getting the place swept, cleaned and organized. This was not a problem since ekel brooms too were part of our camping equipment. It was the dry season and setting fire to the dried leaves was not a safe procedure.

The Mahaweli, which flows by the campsite, had dwindled to a mere stream with large extents of sand exposed. Since trees surrounded the campsite the heat of the sun was not unbearable.

On this particular trip we managed to see a few elephants, with one in particular making a mock charge at us at a place called Sansthapitiya.

According to what we heard from the villagers, the human-elephant conflict was very much a threat to both parties. The roaming elephants had attacked many villagers. Chena cultivators apparently burned gunny bags and dropped them on elephants from their watch-huts in the trees in order to chase them away from their cultivations. Is it any wonder why elephants attack humans? It is said that an elephant never forgets.

One evening, while returning to our camp in the fading light, we saw a herd of deer by the side of the road. As we were approaching it, a deer suddenly dashed on to the road in front of us with another spotted animal in hot pursuit. The latter somersaulted and skidded in front of our vehicle and then ran back into the jungle from where it came. It was a spectacular scene of a leopard chasing its dinner, which it missed due to our presence.

Our third and final trip to Wasgamuwa was in May 1998. Everything was planned well ahead of time, since the preparations were very elaborate as we were embarking on another camping trip. We set off to Wasgamuwa in four four-wheel pick-up trucks. Each vehicle was packed with luggage, iceboxes, tents and foodstuffs.

We reached the campsite early, and this gave us ample time to pitch tents. Afterwards we decided on a bath in the river that was always on the agenda when it came to camping. Those who took beer and hot drinks enjoyed it the most, warming themselves from within and cooling from without while having a dip in the river. Next, we sat down to a sumptuous meal prepared by the cook who went with us, of course helped by the ladies as always.

Attack by an elephant

After our late lunch, the senior members of the party, including my father, Dr. Walter R. Gooneratne and Mr.Vernon Edirisinghe, made a decision that we could go for a quick round in the park. Ten of us managed to get into two vehicles leaving Mr. Senath Abegunawardena behind. My younger brother, Dishana with my mother and three gentlemen in it, drove my father’s Toyota. My husband, Rohan was at the wheel of our Mitsubishi with a young tracker by his side. Dr. Gooneratne, my father, Lakmali and myself were in the back seat.

We, who were in the lead vehicle, were taken along a narrow path when we encountered two large elephants with their backs facing us. The tracker wanted us to turn around suspecting they might attack us. My father came, to the conclusion that they possibly could be elephants from the Somawathiya National Park. Since the tracker mentioned that they were female elephants, the possibility that they were members of a herd was strong. It is a known fact that female elephants stay together with small baby elephants, but not with mature males.

Elephants have attacked vehicles many a time within the park. This knowledge did not deter our young tracker who knew very well that the party, which was very enthusiastic and loved wildlife, was willing to take risks. He therefore guided us to Sansthapitiya, which was a vast plain of grass with jungle bordering all round. At the time the sun was setting beyond the hills and nightlife was just beginning to manifest itself. I had my reservations about going to see wildlife at that time of day. Further, all of us were very tired at the time, having travelled most of the day.

There was nothing much to be seen except the bare plains and the jungle, which was about 50 metres away from the road. Everyone was straining his or her eyes ti catch a glimpse of an animal if there was one, when my husband suddenly spotted an elephant. Though we looked in the direction he pointed, we could not see it and neither did the tracker. My brother had followed closely behind our vehicle, in order to see what we were looking at.

The all of a sudden, without any warning, there came toward our vehicle a black ball of an elephant, all curled up and running as fast as its huge legs could carry it. Its ears were like large palm leaves flapping in the air, back and ford with its trunk and tail raised. The tracker got off the vehicle and started shouting and hitting the bonnet with his hands, but it was of no avail. The angry animal kept running directly towards us. The tracker, who was desperate and excited as all of us were, asked my husband to reverse the vehicle.

Reverse he did in haste, as was instructed. There was a thud and we all jolted. We had crashed into my father’s brand new vehicle, which was behind us. Well, that was more than we could stomach at a time like that, with a raging elephant still charging towards us. When my brother tried to reverse he could not move the vehicle. The buffer had been pushed backwards and it jammed the wheels. Then all of a sudden I could see a head with an enormous pair of ears flapping and fiery red eyes in front of our vehicle.

The angry beast looked at my husband who was frozen in his seat, then lowered its head, pushed it into the region of the right mudguard and then raised it up. With the power of the impact, the right side of the entire vehicle was lifted up, so that for a moment it stood only on the two wheels on the left side. We were all dumbstruck. I am sure everyone held his or her breath in shock and fear as I did. The angry animal then released the right side of the vehicle, hurriedly turned back, trumpeted in a frightful manner, lifted its trunk and tail and ran back into the jungle from where it came. It took only a few seconds for all this to happen, nevertheless the damage was vast.

We sat in our vehicle wondering what would happen next and how we were to get my father’s vehicle back to the campsite. Its radiator was bashed in and the buffer was damaged. No one dared to get down, not knowing where that brute of an animal was hiding and watching, maybe to attack again. From the time we reached the park, members of our party tried to get through to their homes in Colombo, but there were no signals on the mobile telephones.

The irony at that moment was that we managed to get a signal on the telephone and contacted the park office. The tracker informed the official of our plight, and the location we were in. He was quite shaken up, but for our luck he remembered the telephone number of the office. If he had not, I dread to think what could have happened next.

We were so relieved to see the rescue party, which included the park warden himself and his deputy. They spoke to all of us and asked us to be calm. The elephant had damaged the mudguard and the bonnet of our vehicle. We were more than lucky that only our vehicles were damaged and none of us was hurt. After inspecting the damage a person from the rescue party picked up a piece of the broken number plate and drew a line across the road in front of our vehicle, and recited a mantram. It was some kind of a protective charm considering the situation.

By this time the rest of the herd that had been hiding and probably watching us, came out on to the road one by one. This made us more nervous. One of the elephants did a mock charge slowly coming towards our vehicle. The rescue party left nothing to chance. Its members and the tracker together banged and thumped on our bonnet and with screams managed to chase them away. With the guidance of Dr. Gooneratne, my brother managed to steer the vehicle, which was towed to the trackers’ beat that was within walking distance from the campsite. The rescue party consoled us and once we were settled in camp they took leave of us at about 7.30 pm.

Our next step was to have a bath in the river, but that too was not possible, for just below the campsite, on the sand bank next to where we usually had a bath, was a large estuary crocodile. All hopes of washing away the aches and soothing the mental pain disappeared. Tension was quite high in the camp. The slightest thing triggered off my husband. I suppose it was unavoidable considering what we had gone through.

(To be continued) (Excerpted from Jungle Journeys in Sri Lanka edited by C.G. Uragoda)



Features

Arctic link discovered: Lankan scientists trace 8,000 km seabird migration route

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By Ifham Nizam

Sri Lankan scientists have uncovered a remarkable long-distance migration route used by seabirds, linking the island’s shores with the Arctic—an achievement that is expected to reshape global understanding of bird movement and highlight Sri Lanka’s importance in the natural world.

The discovery, led by Professor Sampath S. Seneviratne of the University of Colombo, shows that Heuglin’s Gulls travel nearly 8,000 kilometres from Sri Lanka to breeding grounds in northern Russia, following a carefully chosen path that combines coastal travel with long inland journeys.

Prof. Seneviratne told The Island that the finding challenges the long-standing belief that seabirds depend mainly on ocean routes.

“For a long time, we assumed seabirds would stay close to the sea throughout their migration. What we are seeing here is very different. These birds are moving across land as well, using a route that connects Sri Lanka directly with the Arctic,” he said.

Brown headed gull- migrating from Himalayas to Mannar

The birds begin their journey from the northwestern coast of Sri Lanka, especially around Mannar—an area known for its rich birdlife and coastal habitats. From there, they cross over to India and move along the western coastline before turning inland.

Their journey then takes them through Pakistan and Afghanistan, across parts of Central Asia, and onwards to the Arctic region, where they breed during the northern summer.

What has drawn particular attention from scientists is the route chosen by the birds.

Instead of attempting to cross the world’s highest mountain ranges, or taking a much longer path over the open ocean, the gulls appear to follow a middle course that allows them to avoid harsh conditions while still maintaining a steady journey.

Map 1 &2 birds moving through the continent to reach the Artctic

“They are not simply taking the shortest distance,” Prof. Seneviratne explained. “They are choosing a route that gives them the best chance of survival. Along this path, they are able to find food, rest, and avoid extreme environments.”

The birds travel long distances each day, covering hundreds of kilometres, but they do not do it all in one stretch. Their journey depends heavily on stopovers—places where they pause to rest and rebuild energy.

“These stopovers are critical,” Prof. Seneviratne said. “If the birds cannot find suitable places to feed and recover, they will not be able to complete the journey.”

Co-researcher Dr. Gayomini Panagoda said the discovery sheds light on a route that had remained largely hidden until now.

“We always knew these birds were leaving Sri Lanka during certain times of the year, but we did not fully understand where they were going or how they got there,” she said. “Now we have a much clearer picture of their journey.”

Awareness among schoolchildren

She added that the findings show how closely connected different parts of the world are through nature.

“A bird that spends part of its life in Sri Lanka ends up in the Arctic. That tells us how linked these ecosystems really are,” she said.

The findings also underline the importance of Sri Lanka’s coastal areas, which serve as vital feeding and resting grounds for migratory birds before they begin their long journey north.

Veteran ornithologist , Professor Emeritus Sarath Kotagama said these habitats are of international importance and must be protected.

“These coastal regions, especially places like Mannar, provide the food and shelter these birds need before migration. If those areas are damaged, it will affect bird populations far beyond Sri Lanka,” he said.

Professor Seneviratne with Dr. Gayomini Panagoda

Kotagama warned that increasing pressure on coastal ecosystems—from development, pollution, and climate change—could pose serious risks.

“We are already seeing changes in many of these birds. If we are not careful, we could lose habitats that are essential not just for local wildlife, but for species that travel across continents,” he said.

The discovery also draws attention to the wider network of migration routes that connect countries across Asia and beyond. Birds do not recognise national borders, and their survival depends on conditions in many different places along their journey.

Prof. Seneviratne stressed that protecting these birds will require cooperation between countries.

“These birds travel across several regions, and each of those regions plays a role in their survival. Conservation cannot be done by one country alone,” he said.

A GPS tagged Crab Plover

He added that more work is needed to understand how other species use similar routes and how changes in climate and land use may affect migration patterns in the future.

“There is still much we do not know. This is just one piece of a much larger picture,” he said.

Environmentalists say the findings should encourage stronger action to protect wetlands and coastal ecosystems in Sri Lanka, many of which are under increasing threat.

“These areas are not just important for birds,” Dr. Panagoda said. “They support fisheries, protect coastlines, and are part of our natural heritage. Protecting them benefits both people and wildlife.”

She noted that conserving these habitats will also help ensure that future generations can continue to witness the arrival and departure of migratory birds.

For Sri Lanka, the discovery is both a moment of pride and a reminder of responsibility.

It highlights the role the island plays in supporting wildlife that travels across vast distances and connects different parts of the world.

It also shows that even a small country can have a big impact when it comes to global biodiversity.

As Prof. Seneviratne put it, “What happens in Sri Lanka does not stay in Sri Lanka. These birds carry that connection across continents.”

The discovery is expected to encourage further research into bird migration in the region, as scientists continue to explore how different species move across landscapes and adapt to changing conditions.

It also reinforces the need to protect the natural environments that make such journeys possible.

In the end, the story of these birds is not just about distance. It is about survival, connection, and the delicate balance of nature.

From the shores of Sri Lanka to the frozen Arctic, their journey is a powerful reminder that the natural world is far more connected than we often realise—and that protecting one part of it helps protect the whole.

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Features

Why the promotion of drone warfare is unconscionable

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A drone strike on an oil facility in the Middle East in the current war.

For the morally-conscious, the tendency among some sections in Sri Lanka to promote the production of drones for national defence purposes could be deeply worrying. Besides, this proposition flies in the face of common sense and disregards the relentlessly increasing harsh economic realities coming in the wake of the current wars that could push many a southern country into beggary. In fact even the West is facing an economic recession.

To begin with the latter issues, it is a proved reality that the majority of Southern countries are descending further into poverty at present. The FAO has the ‘bleeding statistics’ . For instance, food insecurity in Asia is of such disquieting proportions that the region accounts for ‘ approximately half of the world’s 370.7 million undernourished people’.

It is against such a bleak economic backdrop that countries of the South are being called on to pump money into the production or importing of drones. Pointed reference needs to be made here to the South because drones are peddled as cutting-edge defence systems that are comparatively economical to acquire and relatively easy to operate. It is even voiced that with time drones could enable even smaller countries of the South to acquire ‘strategic parity’ with the major powers of the North and middle level powers.

Meanwhile, no thought is spared for the poor of the South who would sink steadily into poverty and powerlessness. Because more defence spending by southern countries only entrenches the ruling classes of those countries, and in some cases their military high commands, further in the systems of governance and repression.

This has essentially been the experience of the majority of post-colonial states. As aptly phrased by economic and political analyst Susan George in the seventies, it has always been a case of ‘The Other Half Dying’.

Accordingly, it cannot be perceived as to how more defence spending by the South on drones could help alleviate the latter’s principal problem of deepening poverty. As for the perceived escalating insecurities of the South, these problems are of such complexity that drones could never be seen as offering a quick fix for them. They need patient, multi-pronged managing, mainly at the negotiating table with the powers that matter. These are long- gestation projects that need to be compulsorily undertaken in view of the fact that the alternative could be indefinite conflict and war.

Since Sri Lanka too is mentioned as one of those countries that needs to look at the drone proposition with some seriousness, it is relevant to underscore that Sri Lanka is second in a list of countries that are described as facing acute material hardships at present in the wake of the economic instability bred by the Hormuz crisis. The source of such information is no less than the respected Kiel Institute for the World Economy. The first 10 such gravely affected countries are: Zambia, Sri Lanka, Taiwan, Pakistan, Equatorial Guinea, Kenya, Bangladesh, Vietnam, the Philippines and Thailand.

It is thought-provoking that among the above countries are not only those that have been traditionally seen as experiencing severe underdevelopment but also up-and-coming middle income countries that have been hitherto described as being on a fast track to development. The interesting mix proves that no country at present could consider itself immune to current economic shocks originating mainly in the Middle East that could plunge it dramatically into acute poverty virtually overnight.

We are left to conclude that ‘Bread’ or the economic well being of people could in no way be sacrificed for ‘Drones’ in democratic countries whose governments are obliged to be accountable to the people. Considering the phenomenal hardships that could be waiting to happen worldwide, the world could very well do without more ‘Guns’ or ‘Drones’.

However, if southern governments in particular opt for ‘Drones’ or an accumulation of ‘Guns’, the chances are that there could be overwhelming tides of social discontent in their countries, bred by economic want, that could then ignite indefinite war and repression. That is, a ‘No-Win’ situation for all concerned.

Ukraine has been spiritedly and admirably taking the fight back to the invading Russian forces over the past few years but its skillful use of sophisticated drones of its own making has in no way decreased the human costs the war has been incurring for itself. Ukraine has no choice but to continue with all the weaponry at its command to beat back the Russian invader but sooner rather than later it would need to take into account the immense suffering the war has been inflicting on its people and focus on the fact that the Russians are not backing down but using equally lethal weaponry against it.

The above are some of the dilemmas of the present wars that call for urgent resolution. Warring countries are obliged to address on a priority basis the misery and destruction their actions incur for their publics and consider deploying diplomacy, preferably under the aegis of the UN, to work out peaceful solutions to their enmities and differences. Considering the futility of their war Russia and Ukraine are obliged to think on these lines.

No less a power than the US should be considering deeply right now the advisability of continuing with its military interventions in the South in particular to achieve its self interests. The rising loss of American lives and the economic costs of war in the Middle East will be weighing heavily with the Trump administration and it shouldn’t come as a surprise if negotiations are given a serious try, going ahead. Ground realities in the region moreover indicate that the US ‘has bitten off more than it could chew’ and that Iran is remaining hostile and unyielding despite being bloodied.

For both sides to the war what should be inescapable is the harsh reality of continuing human suffering on a chilling scale. Sophisticated and increasingly destructive weaponry such as drones and missiles are being used but they have not brought either side any closer to victory. Instead human misery is being perpetrated mindlessly with a steady deadening of consciences and a flagrant abandoning of reason.

Accordingly, what perceived legitimate aims could drone warfare, for instance, help achieve? It is quite some time since sections of the world community came to realize the futility of violence and war. There is no choice but for humans to recognize and revere the principle of the sacredness of life. A return to fundamentals is imperative.

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Features

Unforgettable experience …

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The committee members of the Ananda Balika Vidyalaya OGA – UK, who made Funky ’70s Bash Dinner Dance a total success (Photographs by: Praneeth Hettiarachchi)

Singer Rajiv Sebastian has the unique ability to woo an audience and he did just that on his recent trip to London, performing at the Funky ’70s Bash Dinner Dance.

This particular event of music, nostalgia, and celebration, was organised by the Ananda Balika Vidyalaya Old Girls’ Association – UK, and held at the DoubleTree by Hilton London Elstree, in Borehamwood, on 28th February.

They say the success of the evening was made possible through the dedication and hard work of President Devika Arrawwalage and the committed committee members of the Ananda Balika Vidyalaya OGA – UK.

Rajiv Sebastian was in top form, delivering an engaging performance that took the audience on a nostalgic musical journey through the iconic sounds of the’70s.

Doing the first set in full suit, with a fan joining in the action

He did three sets, appearing in three different outfits – suit, the normal shirt and trouser, and the sarong – and the crowd loved it.

Adding to the energy of the event, I’m told, was the music provided by the band Hasthi, made up of Sri Lankan musicians based in the UK.

At the end of a truly enjoyable and memorable event, the organisers had this to say about Rajiv Sebastian’s performance:

“On behalf of the entire team, I want to extend our heartfelt thanks to you for travelling all the way from Sri Lanka to perform at our first ever ABV dinner dance in the UK.

“Your performance was truly the highlight of the night. You have a superb talent for captivating an audience; from the moment you took the stage, your vibrant energy and incredible vocal range completely transformed the atmosphere.

“It was wonderful to see how effortlessly you engaged the crowd, keeping the dance floor packed and everyone in high spirits throughout the evening. You have graced the stage as a guest artiste on three separate occasions, delivering exceptional performances that set you apart from your peers.

“We feel incredibly privileged to have had an artiste of your calibre and charisma join us. You didn’t just provide music; you created an unforgettable experience that people are still talking about.

Surprises for his fans in Sri Lanka, as well

“Thank you for sharing your immense gift with us. Hope to see you back on a UK stage very soon!”

Yes, and it’s happening soon; Rajiv says he is off to London again, in mid-April, and will be performing at four different venues.

He also mentioned that he has some surprises for his fans in Sri Lanka, when he and his band, The Clan, present their 35th Anniversary concert … in June, this year.

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