Features
Virgins and Bullies in Rural Sri Lanka
by Jayantha Perera
In 1974, I wandered in the Veyangoda area with Georg (adviser) and Piyasiri (research assistant) to find a suitable village to study what socioeconomic and political factors influenced people to get together for public benefit. On the third day, at a tea kiosk, we met Guneratne (Gune), a farmer, who invited us to his house at Naiwela.
Gune lived in an old house with a tiled roof and a cemented floor. I told him we were looking for a village to study the cooperative behaviour of people and a place to stay for a few months. He proposed we study Naiwela and stay at his house. He worried about Georg, saying, “Suddas (white people) can’t live in a village because they need creature comforts.”
Gune invited his wife to join us. She brought a plate of thala guli (sesame seed sweet) and three cups of tea. Gune offered us the front room of his house free of charge. His wife confessed that the house did not have a sealed toilet. We should walk 200 yards to a shared well to wash clothes and bathe. She did not cook any type of meat at home. We promised to return in a fortnight with bedding and other necessities to stay for a few months.
An ARTI jeep dropped the team at Gune’s house. He was happy and waiting for us. His wife served us fresh coconut water and a delicious vegetarian lunch. In our absence, he had cleaned the front room and whitewashed its inner walls. The paint smell was unbearable. The room was large enough to spread three narrow mattresses on the floor. It was the rainy season, the floor was damp, and various insects crawled around the mattresses.
On our second day at Naiwela, we started our fieldwork after a good breakfast comprising kiribath and a lentil curry. Gune volunteered to introduce us to villagers. First, he took us to Ariya, his younger brother, who lived across the road. Ariya was a retired government servant. His left arm was shorter than his right arm. He was in a dirty sarong and had a small towel over his left shoulder. He apologised for his clothes, saying he was planting a jackfruit sapling in the garden.
Several planters’ chairs were in a circle, with a multi-coloured teapoy (round, short table) in the middle of the large verandah. The front door was wide and blocked by a heavy curtain with large floral designs. In the undulating garden, I recognised mango, guava, mangosteen, banana, and Jambu trees. There was a pineapple patch at its lower boundary.
Ariya was happy to meet us. He told us we should join him to celebrate his daughter’s forthcoming wedding. The daughter served us tea; a large, imported biscuit tin and a comb of bananas were on the tray. She was a thin and tall young girl in a skirt and blouse. She smiled and asked us why we were living in the village. She spoke a few English words with Georg. Ariya and Gune said they would celebrate her wedding over seven consecutive days. They wanted to make the wedding the most memorable one in the village. The daughter laughed and said it was a bad idea, as it would cost a lot of money.
Gune showed us a house just opposite his house. It was modern, built in a coconut estate with electricity and an overhead water tank. He told us never to visit the house as the woman there had a bad reputation. She was a divorcee and lived with several servants. Gune disapproved of such a living arrangement. I asked him what she could do other than to live in her house with servants. Gune was taken aback by my question. He said that she should not have divorced her husband. Moreover, a young woman should not live with servants, especially with male servants, in a lonely house.
As we walked, he introduced us to villagers. One narrow lane took us to an open public well. Two young women approached it while we admired the blue water in the well. They smiled and drew water to wash their clothes. Both were in their diyareddas (lungi tied above breasts). Gune was unhappy and took us quickly away from the well.
He walked silently for a minute ahead of us, and at a junction where our path crossed a wide track, he said that we must avoid those two girls like vasa (poison). Both had a bad reputation, and he suspected they ran a brothel with two women. We named them X and Y because we would never be able to know them because of Gune’s vigilant eyes.
Gune wanted to walk with us wherever we went. He felt happy and proud to be with us, especially with a white man. People from other villages came in the evening to meet us. One wanted to send us four booru enndan (foldable beds) to sleep on. Another inquired about the white man’s well-being, especially whether he could eat spicy food. Gune’s wife told them he ate more than the other two, enjoying green chillies with white rice. One or two visitors talked to Georg in English.
Gradually, evenings became an informal gathering time at Gune’s house. The Petromax lamp and chairs arranged around it gave us an ideal atmosphere to discuss politics, village gossip, and news. Gune’s wife served tea to visitors. Georg had brought biscuits, tea leaves, and sugar from Colombo to serve visitors. The fascinating topic we discussed during such gatherings was local politics intertwined with caste issues, particularly the influence of caste on social interactions and the challenges faced by low-caste families in the village.
One evening, a peon at the Government Printer’s Department, known for his talkative and demanding nature, visited us. He smoked a cigar, and his breath suggested he had consumed arrack. On that day, Georg was in Colombo. The peon, who often liked to assert his authority, started the conversation with us.
Peon: “What are you doing in our Naiwela.”
I said, “We are studying village groups and how they help each other.”
Peon: “We know all village groups and how they interact. What is there to search for?”
Peon (addressed the audience): “You know, spies come to rural areas to collect information to send to foreign agencies. I am worried to see a white man with three Colombo boys among us.”
Peon(turned to me and asked): “Are you a member of the CIA?”
I: “No, I am a government servant who is doing research for the government.”
Peon was not happy.
Peon: “Are you a member of the KGB?”
I: “No, I am not a KGB agent.”
Peon turned again to his audience and triumphantly declared: There you are! I expected these answers. A spy does not tell the truth and reveal his true identity!”
By this time, Gune was furious and told the peon to behave appropriately or leave. The peon got angry and left, saying he would find out the truth about us and inform the MP of the electorate. The young people in the front yard whistled when he walked out. He hurled a few vulgar and lewd statements at them, and all laughed. Gune explained the peon’s anger — he was angry because we did not visit him.
Our stay in the village and evening meetings gave Gune and his wife a new status. People started calling Gune’s house sudu mahattaya inna gedera (the house where the white gentleman stays). He participated in our interviews and often answered our questions before respondents spoke. While we were walking home after an interview, Gune summarised the interview with a statement about the interviewee’s family and caste status. If we visited a cross-caste couple, he highlighted it with some caustic remark, especially if the respondent or spouse was of a low caste. For him, goigama (farmer caste) is the highest in the status hierarchy. The lowest was the padu. Nawandanna (goldsmiths) and kumbal (potters) castes were in the middle. Hinna (washermen) were below them but above padu people.
Gune and wife were worried about having four young bachelors at home and felt responsible for their well-being. They wanted to ensure we did not fall in love with village women, particularly low-caste women. Caste purity and innocence were always in our discussions. Gune once said that he wanted to protect us from evil women who knew how to charm innocent boys into marrying them.
Gune wanted us to engage in his niece’s wedding. We took the responsibility to distribute wedding invitation cards. Ariya was happy we engaged in the wedding, and soon, we became frequent visitors to his house. We listened to the discussions on wedding arrangements, the guest lists, and the types of gifts they expected from invitees. Ariya did not discuss expenses, but when no one was around, he told me how much he had already spent on the wedding. Discussions in the evenings at Arya’s invariably ended with dinner there. We were invited to the inner house to sit with them at the dining table. Gune was initially unhappy that we stayed with Ariya for dinner. But gradually, he, too, joined us in discussions and dinner.
After arguments and counterarguments, Ariya and his wife identified guests for each wedding day. His wife’s word was final, and all agreed once she revealed her thoughts. Ariya once lost his temper and walked out, saying that he would not attend the wedding. Within minutes, he returned and kept quiet.
Ariya’s wife had informed Redi Naenda (washerwoman) about her duties. Redi Naenda‘s role was crucial to the wedding. She would collect the bedsheets from the nuptial bed, check blood stains, if any, and declare whether the bride was a virgin or not in public. In addition to this crucial declaration, she had to protect the bride from evil spirits. Before homecoming, she had to clean the bride from kili (impurities). She must refrain from spreading gossip in the village about the bride’s virginity.
A young man whom we interviewed told us that if the bride was not a virgin, Redi Naenda might accept a handsome bribe to declare that the bride was one. In any case, she could not stop what villagers would say, and the rumour-mongering machine would start before the wedding day.
Ariya sent his younger brother to Kuliyapitiya, where the bridegroom lived, to check his physical and sexual fitness. The emissary went discreetly to the bridegroom’s house by appointment to check his genitals. The emissary could touch any part of the bridegroom’s body in a room with respect and permission. He would tell the bridegroom his opinion. If positive, there would be an informal tea party at the bridegroom’s house. When the emissary returned, Ariya was impatient and ill-tempered. He took the emissary to the front room of the house and re-emerged with a smile.
The bridegroom was a graduate of Colombo University and an assistant manager of a Peoples Bank Branch. He was a goigama man, and his parents were schoolteachers. The village chief priest had recommended the boy as decent, honest, obedient, and someone who would look after his parents and siblings.
The bridegroom arrived at Ariya’s with two friends on the wedding eve. The visit confirmed that he would marry the bride the following day. The bride was kept out of sight while the bridegroom was with Ariya and his wife. He handed over a small parcel to Ariya’s wife. After the bridegroom left, Ariya showed me the gift – a gold chain for the bride to reaffirm his love for his future wife and his commitment to marry her.
The first day of the wedding was a grand, formal affair. Only close relatives of both sides and a few village residents, such as the school principal and his family and business colleagues of Ariya, attended the wedding. The couple stood on the poruwa (decorated platform). The Birth, Marriage, and Death Registrar officiated at the ceremony by reciting a few Sanskrit slokas (prayers). The most heartbreaking part of the occasion was when the bride gave her mother Sela (a piece of silk cloth) to thank her for turning blood into breastmilk when she was an infant. Mother and bride cried, hugging each other, and other women joined them.
Guests took their seats for lunch only after Ariya and his wife had invited each of them with a full glass of water to a particular table. The newlyweds talked to each guest and left home on their honeymoon at four in the afternoon amongst firecrackers and raban (drum) playing. Ariya’s wife fainted when she saw her only daughter leaving her sadahatama (forever) and becoming a stranger’s wife. She recovered and attended to Ariya, who sobbed in the front room.
The couple returned the following day at 12.30 pm from their honeymoon amidst beating drums and firecrackers. Everybody was happy. Redi naenda had sent a confidential report to the bride’s mother to say that her daughter was a virgin. The bride looked glamorous with heavy gold jewellery and beamed with a lovely smile.
Ariya wanted to say a few words. He held a gold coin and tossed it several times so others could see. He gave the sovereign to his daughter and said, “You have protected your dignity and our dignity being a virgin. Today, your mother and I are the happiest people on earth. We hope to see many of your children playing in this large garden, which will belong to them.”
Ariya started crying, saying that he was despondent as his only daughter had left him. He thanked the bridegroom for marrying his darling daughter and sternly warned him not to ill-treat her. Ariya could not control his sorrow, so he retired to the front room and stayed there. A little later, Ariya bolted out of the room into the verandah with tears in his eyes and started talking to Georg, expecting me to translate.
Ariya: “Sudu Mahaththayo’ (white sir) [pause] ‘kanya bhawaya’ (virginity) of my daughter [pause].”
Georg smiled and said, “Yes.”
Ariya: “Blood, sir. Blood. Virginity, Blood. White sir, do you know our rituals about weddings?”
Georg: “I do not know much about wedding rituals in Sri Lanka.”
Ariya: “I will tell you. My daughter is a virgin. Now we all can celebrate her purity in public.”
I hesitated to translate what Ariya had just said. Ariya beckoned me to his side and asked me to translate what he had just said into English. Fortunately, the bride overheard her father shouting about her virginity and purity and came running to tell him to stop. He started crying and said to me, “Look, she has already started to ill-treat me. I wonder whether she might join her in-laws and ridicule me.” Showing his left arm, he said, “I am not a powerful man. I would soon be an orphan at home, as my wife would control me more.” He started crying, and nobody paid attention.
Ariya and his wife hosted relatives from faraway places on the third day of the wedding. The fourth day was for ordinary Naiwela villagers. The fifth day was for Ariya’s old friends, especially those who worked with him at government offices. The sixth day was for the bride’s office friends, and the seventh was for the immediate family and well-wishers. The new couple wore wedding clothes daily and spent time with the visitors. On the seventh day, after lunch, the couple left for the bridegroom’s parents to spend a week with them.
Two days later, Georg and I visited Ariya and his wife. Ariya told me they could not bear their loneliness and live without their daughter at home. After evening tea, Ariya’s wife told me, in her usual low voice and while trying to dry her tears, that I had a marriage proposal from a decent family. The girl was the only child and 21 years old. She studied at a leading girls’ school in Colombo and was fluent in English. It might be the girl I once saw at the Buddhist temple with her parents. She was a tall, pretty woman in a white lama sari (half saree). Ariya said their house and the large garden were worth over a million rupees. In addition, one hundred thousand rupees would be the cash dowry.
I was perplexed. It was my first marriage proposal, and I was not used to such large sums of money. The housing loan I was paying in instalments after my father’s untimely death flashed into my mind. Suddenly, I had a solution to my financial difficulties and an avenue to secure my future. Georg understood my predicament and smiled. He said, “Jayantha, you have indeed gone native!”
Features
Nepal’s Himalayan Tragedy and new Warnings of Surging El Niño
by Rajan Philips
Nepal was bracing for Super El Niño. Then it got hit by a two thousand feet wide glacier collapse way up in the Himalayas that sent torrents of water, mud and rocks down valleys and rivers, devastating communities, tourists and physical assets in the mountainous terrains of Nepal and Tibet in China. The disaster struck along the China-Nepal border wreaking havoc on both sides, but a lot more on the side of Nepal than Tibet. More than a thousand people have died, and thousands more are missing in Nepal; about 20 are dead and over 500 missing in Tibet. Hundreds of tourists are also missing on both sides. Many of the missing tourists are South Asian pilgrims from western countries visiting Hindu sacred sites in the Himalayas.
Terrifying videos of the devastation have been going viral. Especially breathtaking is the one showing a monstrous tide of mud sweeping way the Chinese border station building in the Gyirong gorge, a historic crossing point between Nepal and Tibet. Humankind has no defense against the fury of nature whenever and wherever it happens. The force of water in full turbulence is unstoppable. Werner Heisenberg, the great Quantum Physicist, is said to have remarked that on his deathbed he would like to ask God two questions: why relativity? why turbulence? And he suggested that God may have something to say about relativity, implying that there is little we can know about turbulence.
“El Niño Warnings
With global warming water becomes a problem both in its abundance and in its scarcity. Even as Nepal is struggling to recover from its hydro tragedy, the World Meteorological Organization (WOM) is warning that exceptionally warm Pacific waters are aggravating the “El Niño climate troubles and raising the risk of extreme heat, floods and drought around the globe, over the next several months and until February 2027. The South Asian countries have been earmarked for special treatment by El Niño. Already this year, Europe has experienced unusual heat waves and floods, while forest fires from British Columbia in Canada to Indonesia in the far east.
To climate modellers, “El Niño and La Niña are the yin and yang of a phenomenon known as the El Niño-Southern Oscillation, a years-long cycle of warming and cooling of surface waters in the central to eastern tropical Pacific Ocean.” The former is associated with warming waters, and the latter with cooling waters. Either of them can alter weather patterns and surcharge the extreme effects of climate change.
Also, different continents experience the effects of heat and rain differently. Even within countries, there can be floods in some parts while drought and fires affect others. This year’s El Niño is expected to be unusually stronger and the carryover effects next year are expected to be greater. The baseline comparison is to the year 2024 which was the warmest year in the planet’s history. 2027 may break that record.
The UN and the WMO (World Meteorological Organization) are doing their parts, but the leaders of states and governments everywhere have other pre-occupations. Donald Trump is being his usual silly busy renaming Lake Ontario, one of five Great Lakes of North America, Lake America! That is his way of spiting his country’s northern neighbour, Canada. Every country is spending more money to defend itself against other countries. Among western countries, defense spending has become the new economic growth pole. More submarines, more jets and yes, more drones, but very little to deal with climate change – to reduce global warming, to increase weather preparedness and to be ready for disaster mitigation.
A few days before the August 26 glacier collapse in Nepal, I was browsing through Sri Lankan news reports about the level of preparation in Sri Lanka to deal with the anticipated effects of El Niño. Per usual the government was under fire for apparent tardiness in preparing for El Niño. The Department of Agriculture (DOA) was advising farmers to conserve rainwaters from the Maha season to cope with the likely drought for the Yala season next year. I have a problem understanding where and how can farmers, on their own, build water reserves for paddy fields between seasons? I suppose any advice is better than no advice.
And droughts are already occurring in many cultivating areas even as the Castlereagh and Maussakelle reservoirs are reportedly reaching overflow conditions. In some places people had taken to freshwater fish farming, but now they are reportedly walking miles in search of drinking water. Sri Lankan Navy personnel have been photographed feeding water to the wild ponies in Delft. A Peradeniya academic has chimed in about the climate physics of El Niño and the disruptions it is going to cause. What was once limited to climate wonks is now daily bread for everyday commentators.
The Nepal Tragedy
Online El Niño browsing took me to papers in Nepal and some informed popular articles by the country’s climate experts and activists. The articles were about getting prepared for the drought and rains of El Niño. But what hit Nepal and Tibet a few days later on August 26, had nothing to do with El Niño, but had everything to do with global warming, rising temperatures and melting ice in massive quantities and at high altitudes. A week after the disaster a clear assessment of what triggered it is emerging, thanks to satellite images and concurrent analyses by climate experts around the world.
The initial attribution to an earthquake in the area and the later causal correction to a glacier side have now been supplemented by the identification of a bedrock failure underneath the glacier and it is the ensuing avalanche that registered a 5.2 seismic event. As two New York Times reporters (Raj Saha and Jeremy White) have graphically illustrated, the avalanche released “more than seven billion cubic feet of rock and ice,” enough to “fill around 100 football stadiums” in the US. Further, “the debris traveled downstream with a flow rate at least 30 times that of Niagara Falls, … reached a peak speed of over 100 miles per hour … and traveled more than 60 miles, destroying towns and bridges and killing more than 1,000 people.”
For more context, the Trishuli River (named after Shiva’s trident -trishula), which flows between Gyriong in Tibet and Rasuwagadhi in Nepal, dropping 2,000 metres over a distance of 30 kilometres from its glacier origins to the valley below, became the main conduit of carnage. Overall, 32 concrete bridges were washed away and 12 hydropower projects (accounting for 431 MW) were damaged, with many of their tunnels inundated with over 900 workers stuck in them still unaccounted for.
The disaster is generally attributable to growing glacier instability in the Himalayan area that includes some of the largest glacial systems outside the polar regions. The mountainous area extends over 2,400 km and nearly 600,000 sq. km in five countries (India, Nepal, Bhutan, Tibet (China) and Pakistan), and feeds the hugely populated basins of the Indus, Ganges, and Brahmaputra rivers. Climate change and air pollution have led to the glacier system retreating and melting at alarming rates. A dozen mountainous catastrophes have occurred over the last 20 years, and new satellite images are showing old warning signs that would appear to have been missed.
Astha Guragain, a Nepali climate researcher and activist, has raised the very pertinent question of climate justice in assigning cause for the glacial instability in the Himalayan region within Nepal. His argument is that “Nepal contributes less than 0.01% of global carbon emissions yet is exposed to disproportionate vulnerability from its consequences.” The government of Nepal has estimated the cost of disaster to be $5 billion, a huge amount for a country of 31 million people and $44 billion GDP.
The Nepali government has formally requested funding support from the special UN climate fund. The problem is that the fund has little money because of American indifference and non contribution by others. The current fund balance is a disgraceful $820 million in pledges! Already, there are applications from 119 countries for a total amount of $2.8 billion. The US pledged a paltry $17.5 million under President Biden, but it is nothing under Trump after his decision to pull out of the Paris Accord and the Green Climate Fund, even though the US is the world’s largest emitter of greenhouse gases.
The tragedy poses a huge challenge to Nepal’s new Rastriya Swatantra Party government and its 36 year old Prime Minister Balendra Shah. They were elected only in March this year, winning 182 out of 275 seats. The March elections came after massive youth protests and the ouster of the previous government in September 2025. Shah is a Structural Engineer and rapper artist who forayed into national politics when he was elected as Mayor of Kathmandu in 2022. The still fledgling government is also young of age with 17 its 18 ministers, including the Prime Minister, under the age of 40.
Yet the young Engineer Prime Minister is striking the right notes in asking for international help without diminishing Nepal’s sovereignty. Attributing the current disaster to climate change, Mr. Shah has said that “climate change is a global contribution and its response is also a global responsibility.” While asking for legitimate funds, the government has also turned down instant offers of foreign organizations to undertake search-and-rescue operations.
The refusal is based on the country’s experience after the 2015 earthquake, when the arrival of 76 international teams and over 2,200 personnel overwhelmed Kathmandu’s single-runway airport. And the national memory is that while 53 foreign teams pulled 19 people from the rubble, local forces moved much faster and saved many more lives.
Nepal’s tragedy is also a test to the international community, especially to western governments and leaders, to respond to this Himalayan manifestation of the world’s climate crisis in a formal and substantive way through UN agencies and not use it as another charity moment to be handled by the Red Crosses of the world.
Features
MARCO POLO
Epoch maker, role model for our readers and especially for our youth
A translator’s view
Book: ‘Deshataka Marco Polo’
(A translation of Marco Polo by Manuel Komroff
Translator: K. A. I. Kalyanaratne
Publisher: Sarasavi
By K. A. I.Kalyanaratne
We are currently experiencing a book market characterised by a disproportionate number of publications, particularly in genres such as romantasy, a blend of romance and fantasy.
Hence, the current status, more importantly with regard to reading, would raise the issue as to how far Francis Bacon’s quote, “Reading maketh a full man” continues to be valid in the prevailing circumstances.
Bacon, in fact, emphasised the truth of the transformative power of reading in moulding an individual’s personality through expanding the skill of understanding, empathy as well as emotional intelligence. Reading also helps one to become wise, witty as well as expanding the capability of making precise judgments. In short, Bacon’s perspective on reading as a means of intellectual growth would remain relevant if the reader has the vision and wisdom to pick what to read and shed what to be left .
It is, therefore, amidst these challenges that I decided to launch into this highly risky task of translating Marco Polo into Sinhala. Hence, the tasks of translating a book, the theme of which is quite off the popular track, as well as undertaking such a risky job by the publisher are indeed challenging.
Nevertheless, both the translator and the publisher have won the battle, as the end-product appears to attract the attention of all levels and types of readership and entice especially our youth. Youth should be our target group. The credit for overcoming this tremendous battle should also be given to the author of the original book, Marco Polo, American writer Manuel Komroff, whose style of writing has given life, action and spirit to an otherwise ‘boring / dry subject’, which belongs to a ‘bygone era’. Further, Marco Polo evokes memories of distinctive qualities and events, which continue to bring value that compels us to remember and reflect upon.
Manuel Komroff’s exceptional ability to bring history to life
A normal writer would commence by saying that as Marco Polo had grown and also become strong, he could join his father and uncle on their next expedition. But Manuel Komroff dramatised the event and made the unfolding of the story lively by creating a dialogue between the father (Niccolo Polo) and the son (Marco Polo). This approach enticed and captivated the reader from the very beginning of the narration. It also shows indirectly how fit the son was in undertaking a highly risky and geographically unknown journey, venturing into uncharted waters fraught with storms, shipwrecks, and starvation. These were only a few, out of the numerous hazards they had to overcome. Every step was a step towards uncertainty. This is how the author raises the curtain:
Now, Nicolo Polo, Marco’s father, invited his son to accompany them on their next expedition.
Nicolo looked at his son and smiled.
‘You have grown, you are strong’ he said.
‘Yes, this time you shall go with us to the court of Kublai Khan.’
It had been a wonderful day. Such a wonderful day. But now Marco’s joy knew no bounds.
That night when young Marco closed his eyes, he dreamed of far-off lands and strange races. He dreamed of oriental wonders, marvels and splendors.
He awoke early the following morning. From his bed he could see the rim of the sun mount the eastern horizon across the bay. How far east was Cathay?
Soon, very soon, he could be journeying eastward to that magical land of Cathay. This was the first place of his heart’s desire.
Manuel Komroff’s exceptional descriptive ability to drive life into dry historical facts
Hats off to Manuel Komroff for enabling the Sinhala reader, through this translation, to see how a collection of historical data could be infused into a colourful and dramatic description. Although it is true that words provide the medium for conveying ideas, using them to create the desired liveliness is a different art that needs to be consciously and conscientiously developed. The Sinhala translation provides the opportunity for our readers to experience that vitality in writing.
A further specific instance of Komroff’s exceptional descriptive ability is his narration of the Emperor Kublai Khan’s arrangements in Xanadu (Shangdu) to spend the hot summer months in the cool Manchurian Hills. (Chapter 13). In short, what Manuel Komroff has performed is to bring history to life using the technique of storytelling and making historical events, people and periods engaging and memorable. In fact, this special feature would have been the reason that lured me initially to procure the book, 48 years ago.
Marco Polo – Character study / Character exploration
Anyone and more importantly our youth who need guidance in choosing a ‘Role-Model’ I would unhesitantly recommend studying Marco Polo. A man of character is not measured only by his achievements, prosperity or status, but by the values and principles he constantly upholds. In short one’s character reflects the totality of a person’s disposition, intentions, thoughts and actions, forming a ‘moral-compass’ that directs decisions and behaviour in all instances.
Apart from the tough journey he undertook with his father and uncle, a journey fraught with unpleasant circumstances, to the court of emperor Kublai Khan, winning the emperor’s trust and confidence were not easy tasks. Only a man of deep foresight could move with an emperor whose leadership style demonstrated both the administrative sophistication he had developed, and his ability to coordinate diverse forces towards a unified military objective.
Marco Polo’s deep foresight enabled him to look far ahead of the immediate future, and to adapt to the new environment in which he had to discharge his duties. His acquisition of skills to undertake the long journey, with his father and uncle, and mastering the skills needed to undertake both sea and land expeditions, even before his father gave the consent to accompany them in their second journey to the east, displayed how futuristic Marco Polo’s strategic thinking was.
Once entrusted with honourable and onerous tasks by emperor Kublai Khan, he mastered four languages demanded by the tasks (including Persian, Mongolian, Turkic and Cantonese) and also studied the administrative structures of the empire. It was due to these rare virtues that Kublai Khan once entrusted Marco to undertake a long journey up to Burma, and collect all information needed to plan the country’s economy and restructure taxation within the empire. These tasks, in fact, demanded extraordinary skills as well as extreme integrity and also exceptional leadership.
Marco Polo’s extraordinary foresight
Coupled with the aforesaid virtues / qualities Marco Polo was a visionary who possessed an extraordinary foresight, our youth need to consider developing them. While foresight carries a weight of expectation, people possessing this quality also acquire the ability to look beyond the immediate future, and make near accurate predictions. This ability, in short, involves critical thinking, creativity, strategic planning and fathoming of the forces that shape both the immediate vicinity as well as the rapidly changing outer world / peripheries. These are musts for any person who wishes to lead and reach his / her vision, rather than getting led by the forces and succumbing to them.
What Hendrik Willem says about Marco Polo in The Story of Mankind
“The crusades had been a lesson in the liberal art of travelling. But very few people had ever ventured beyond the well-known beaten track which led from Venice to Jaffa. In the thirteenth century the Polo brothers, merchants of Venice, had wandered across the great Mongolian desert, and after climbing mountains as high as the moon, they had found their way to the court of the great Khan of Cathay, the mighty emperor of China. The son of one of the Polos, by the name of Marco, had written a book about their adventures, which covered a period of more than twenty years. The astonished world had gaped at his descriptions of the gold towers of the strange island of Zipangu, which was his Italian way of spelling Japan. Many people had wanted to go to the east, so that they might find this gold-land and grow rich. But the trip was too far and dangerous, and so they stayed at home.”
Final thoughts: Why Marco Polo still matters
Many readers would cast Marco Polo in the category of explorers like most others who engaged in explorations. This is far from the truth. He wasn’t a mere explorer. He was a bridge-builder, a cultural translator, as well as a visionary who taught that the world was far more integrated than Europeans at the time imagined. Unlike most others his tasks were not confined to just mapping of lands. As some historians expressed, his gritty journeys “rewired global trade” and became a global connector, triggered technological curiosity, and prepared the stage for centuries of more and more explorations, which ultimately resulted in reshaping the earth to its true form. Christopher Columbus, if not inspired by Marco Polo’s ‘Il milione’ (The Travels of Marco Polo), wouldn’t have, for certain, sailed west. Similarly the Portuguese might not have brought the seas and lands under their domination. In short, Europe’s economic growth and expansion might have been delayed by many a century. Marco Polo was thus an epoch maker, who changed history forever.
Features
Martin Wickremasinghe and the Catholic Church: An Uneasy Encounter
By Avishka Mario Senewiratne
Editor-in-Chief Ceylon Journal
By now, with the renewed interest and discussions on Martin Wickramasinghe in which you may have taken part before today, let alone the fascinating accounts by my three esteemed colleagues who have spoken would have given you a clear indication that Wickramasinghe was an ‘ideas’ man, who had an opinion and criticism for any subject his eyes or senses laid on. My focus is on a lesser known, hardly discussed perspective, which you will possibly consider as controversial. And that is Martin Wickramasinghe and the Catholic Church.
After Mrs. Sirima Bandaranaike’s SLFP government won the elections of July 1960 there was a period of considerable political and social change. Among its most controversial measures was the state takeover of assisted and denominational schools. The controversy soon went beyond education. It raised larger questions about religion, democracy, and where the authority of the Church should end and that of the State begin.
It was also a lively period in Sri Lanka’s intellectual life. Christianity, democracy and education were debated by formidable minds: Martin Wickremasinghe; Fr. W. L. A. Don Peter, historian and later Rector of St. Joseph’s College; and Bishop Edmund Peiris OMI, the first Sinhalese Catholic bishop and himself a distinguished historian and Sinhala scholar. It is against this background that I approach Martin Wickremasinghe and the Catholic Church.
The first part of my discussion are some thoughts on a series of articles Wickremasinghe wrote to the Silumina in 1960. In his first article, “ආගම, සසුන හ ජනසම්මතවාදය”—Religion, the Church and Democracy—he argues that religion should not merely consist of theories and dogmas but must be practiced by its followers. Surprisingly, on this aspect, Britain interested him because it retained a monarchy while political power had become democratic and religion no longer commanded the machinery of government. From here, Wickremasinghe turns his guns on the Catholic Church.
He attacks the Catholic Church’s history of censoring books from the ancient to recent times. To him, an institution which prohibits ideas sits rather uncomfortably beside democracy. There is also some wit in his observation that censorship rarely works as scholars and serious readers will somehow find the forbidden books and probably become even more determined to read them. One might also note his severe criticism of the Catholic Church in his work Evolution and Revolution (1971) for censoring Fr. Teilhard de Chardin’s The Phenomenon of Man (1955). Wickramasinghe was known to be an admirer of Chardin.
However, his deeper quarrel was with the hierarchical structure of the Church. Catholic priests administering schools, he argues, did not necessarily represent ordinary Catholics but an ecclesiastical establishment answering to bishops and ultimately Rome. He questions Church authority over marriage and birth control and objects to religious intervention in science. Papal infallibility particularly troubled him: how can unquestionable authority, he asks in effect, coexist with a society founded upon questioning?
Yet Catholics are not Wickremasinghe’s only targets. Buddhist monks receive their share of the fire. He criticizes the temperance movement, arguing that prohibition would hardly make people sober. The working classes might simply turn to illicit arrack, damaging their health while depriving the government of revenue. To sum up, Wickramasinghe states that public policy should follow social realities rather than religious morality.
In a subsequent article he argues that religious education fares little better. Both Buddhist Dhamma schools and Catholic Sunday schools come under scrutiny. Religion, Wickremasinghe argues, cannot simply be learnt from books; it must be lived. Despite the multiplication of religious schools, he saw no corresponding decline in crime among Buddhist or Christian youth. More religion classes, therefore, did not necessarily produce more virtuous—or better—people.
However, four years earlier, in his book Bana Katha Sahithya, he credited S. Thomas’ distinctive artistic tradition to English clergymen formed by Greek and English literature and inspired by religious ideals. He could therefore admire Christianity’s contribution to culture and education while remaining deeply critical of the authority, censorship and institutional power of the Church itself.
His criticism of Catholicism must also be understood against his view of the colonial missionary legacy. He regarded parts of the Christian establishment as elitist and closely associated with educational and institutional power. Accordingly it must be understood that his criticism against the Church was not for its theology but for its impact on privilege, censorship, authority and bureaucracy.
This is what makes his position more interesting. The larger question Wickramasinghe asks and one that is still relevant was – where should religion end and democracy begin?
Wickremasinghe also observes that elite schools such as S. Thomas’, Royal and Wesley may produce decent and civilised young men, but questions whether their virtue necessarily comes from religious instruction. Good manners and discipline, he warns, should not automatically be mistaken for religious virtue.
But some of his criticisms are problematic. His treatment of papal infallibility appears to make it a broad claim to unquestionable authority, whereas Catholic doctrine confines it to particular circumstances concerning faith and morals. His larger question about authority remains legitimate, but his treatment of the doctrine of papal infallibility is incomplete.
He also accuses the Church of discouraging Catholics from participating in activities initiated by Buddhists and non-Catholics yet provides no evidence from Ceylon for such a sweeping conclusion. Similarly, he suggests that Catholic schools did more than educate children— and that through religious education they exercised control over parents and families. Catholic schools certainly preserved religious identity, but control is a considerably stronger accusation and requires considerably stronger evidence.
The conclusion of the essay is revealing. Writing amid the growing Sinhalaisation of Ceylon, Wickremasinghe argues that a free Buddhist society required two things: a strong socialist government and a strong Sasana.
There is an intriguing tension here. He subjects ecclesiastical authority to severe criticism while placing considerable faith in a powerful socialist State. He even goes on to say that socialism could resolve both social and economic anxieties of society. He could not, of course, have foreseen the later record of Sri Lanka’s socialist experiments.
Wickremasinghe soon received an answer from Bishop Edmund Peiris. Peiris corrected what he regarded as Wickremasinghe’s errors concerning Catholic history, doctrine and the functioning of the Church. This was not a quarrel between strangers. Their association went back at least to 1932. Peiris admired Wickremasinghe’s novels and criticism, while Wickremasinghe respected the Bishop’s scholarship. In replying, Wickremasinghe called Peiris an “old friend,” who wishes “not to quarrel,” and clarified an important distinction: his criticism was principally against the institutional Church and the Vatican, not Christianity as an ethical and social teaching.
To support his argument that the Church historically opposed rationalism, democracy and science, Wickremasinghe relied heavily upon J. B. Bury’s A History of Freedom of Thought (1913). He dismissed Hilaire Belloc’s criticism of Bury as largely corrections of dates, statistics and details rather than a refutation of Bury’s central argument.
Here, Wickremasinghe was perhaps too willing to accept an interpretation congenial to his own rationalism. Bury wrote from a strongly rationalist and anti-clerical standpoint; Belloc was a committed Catholic controversialist. Wickremasinghe failed to note that neither gentleman arrived at the argument without luggage.
Nor could modern Catholicism simply be characterized as an opponent of democracy and social progress: by Wickremasinghe’s lifetime, Catholic social teaching had developed considerably on labour, social justice, human dignity and the responsibilities of the State.
With that exchange coming to a close, I would focus on the second aspect of my argument: Martin Wickramasinghe and Fr. Don Peter.
In June 1960, amid the controversy over the school takeover, Archbishop Thomas Benjamin Cooray publicly defended the democratic right of Catholic schools which had played a pivotal role in the freedom struggle to remain under Church ownership while strongly attacking Marxist statism. Ven. Madihe Pannasiha Thera responded in the Dinamina, accusing Catholic education of undermining the Buddha Sasana and provocatively comparing Catholicism with Marxism.
Defending the stance of the Church, Fr. Don Peter replied to the Dinamina. He dismissed the comparison between Catholicism and Marxism as nonsensical and challenged the foundations of Pannasiha Thera’s argument. It was in this milieu that Martin Wickramsinghe, then aged 70, entered the argument as a response to Fr. Don Peter’s article. This response didn’t end up in one article but a series of four others each by Fr. Don Peter and Martin Wickramsinghe.
Martin Wickramasinghe’s first response titled “Is the Catholic Church Democratic?”, starts his argument by saying “මඩිහේ පඥ්ඥසීහ මහහිමියගේ එක් චෝදනාවක් වත් අසාධාරණ නොවේ යයි හැ(ගේ)” Wickramasinghe argued that the political outlook of the medieval Roman Catholic Church was closely associated with a hierarchical and authoritarian conception of the state. He connects this tradition with the philosophy of Aristotle and St. Thomas Aquinas and contrasts it with modern democracy, which he sees as developing largely from the ideas of English thinkers such as John Locke and David Hume. However, Wickramasinghe does not claim that Catholic doctrine explicitly demands an anti-democratic state; he acknowledges that the evidence from Pope Leo XIII does not necessarily prove such a position.
Nevertheless, he stated that the Church’s historical conduct gives some justification to accusations of authoritarianism. He particularly points to the Catholic Church’s support for Francisco Franco’s dictatorship in Spain and cites Pope Pius XI who called the Fascist Dictator Mussolini, “a man sent by Providence,” after the Vatican Treaty of 1929. Wickramasinghe distinguishes the teachings of Jesus and early Christianity from the political character later acquired by the institutional Church. Drawing upon the Marxist scholar Karl Kautsky’s Foundations of Christianity, he suggests that primitive Christianity possessed egalitarian, even communistic or socialist, characteristics. Although Kautsky was a Marxist, Wickramasinghe argues that his historical criticism cannot simply be dismissed. Overall, he presents Christianity as an evolving historical institution whose later authoritarian tendencies should not automatically be attributed to Jesus’s original teachings.
In his response to Wickramasinghe, Fr. Don Peter’s article is titled “කතෝලික පවුලේ පාලනයට ප්රජාතන්ත්රවාදය උවමනා නැත.” He laments stating that he thought Wickramasinghe was a moderate and not an extremist for the first line in the latter’s response “මඩිහේ පඥ්ඥසීහ මහහිමියගේ එක් චෝදනාවක් වත් අසාධාරණ නොවේ.” Here, his strongest contention to Wickremasinghe rests upon a simple distinction: the Catholic Church is not democratic in its internal government, but this does not make it anti-democratic. He argues that the Church does not claim that every legitimate political system must imitate its own hierarchical structure. Nor, he maintains, should the actions of Catholics in a particular country or period be taken as proof that the Church itself is opposed to democracy.
To explain this, Fr. Don Peter compares the Church to a family. A family is not governed democratically: children do not elect their parents or vote upon every decision. They obey their father because they trust his love, judgement and concern for their welfare. In the same manner, Catholics regard the Pope as a spiritual father and accept his authority as the representative of Christ. This obedience, Fr. Don Peter stresses, concerns principally religious and spiritual matters and applies to Catholics, not to society as a whole.
The distinction is important and exposes a weakness in Wickremasinghe’s argument. A hierarchical institution is not necessarily hostile to a democratic State. Universities, armies and even political parties may contain hierarchies while functioning within democracies.
Yet Fr. Don Peter’s family analogy is not totally convincing. Children possess limited autonomy because they are minors; adult Catholics are morally and intellectually responsible individuals. Comparing ecclesiastical obedience to a child’s obedience to his father risks becoming paternalistic and may actually strengthen Wickremasinghe’s concern about unquestioned authority. Don Peter successfully demonstrates that non-democratic and anti-democratic are not synonymous, but his argument does not entirely answer the larger question Wickremasinghe raises: how should a hierarchical religious authority operate within a society increasingly committed to individual judgement, intellectual freedom and democratic values? Though Wickramasinghe’s criticism is about the Catholic Church’s lack of democracy, he fails to mention how or how not Buddhism or any other main religion functions in a democratic hegemony.
In his next response, titled “ජනසම්මතවාදය හා රෝමානු පල්ලිය,” Wickremasinghe began by apologising to Fr. Don Peter and clarifying that he had actually written, “මඩිහේ පඥ්ඥසීහ හිමියගේ එක් චෝදනාවක් අසාධාරණ නොවේයැයි මට හැගේ,” rather than “එක් චෝදනාවක් වත් අසාධාරණ නොවේ.” The editor of the Dinamina also apologised to readers for the erroneous addition of “වත්,” which had significantly altered the meaning and perhaps contributed to Fr. Don Peter escalating the debate.
From this point, however, the exchange became increasingly polemical. Wickremasinghe revealed some confusion regarding the distinction between the Roman Catholic Church and the local Church in Sri Lanka, an issue Fr. Don Peter readily seized upon. He also invoked an earlier criticism by Panditha Vimalawansha Thero, who had claimed that Wickremasinghe lacked sufficient knowledge of Buddhism and the history of its propagation. Don Peter therefore questioned how someone accused of misunderstanding his own religious tradition could confidently pronounce upon the Catholic Church.
The debate consequently drifted further from its original argument about Catholicism and democracy. The Gnanartha Pradeepaya joined the controversy, attacking Wickremasinghe with the cutting remark, “වික්රමසිංහ මහතා පණ්ඩිතකම කට ගාගත්තෙකැයි.” Thereafter, the exchange gradually petered out without a proper resolution, leaving behind considerable disagreement and evidently some resentment among those involved.
Two years after this exchange, in 1962, Wickremasinghe published Sinhala Sakaskada, a collection of essays on culture, anthropology, democracy and religion, including his articles on the Catholic Church, the school takeover and his responses to Fr. Don Peter. On 14 July 1962, Don Peter wrote to Wickremasinghe questioning why his replies had been omitted, arguing that Catholic readers had thereby been denied the other side of the debate. Wickremasinghe replied that the book was essentially a collection of his own writings but encouraged Fr. Don Peter to publish the entire exchange himself. Fr. Don Peter accepted the suggestion and subsequently published his own Sakaskädé.
In 1964 Fr. Don Peter made a surprising gesture. He invited Wickremasinghe, then nearly 75, to be Chief Speaker at the Sinhala Day of St. Joseph’s College. Wickremasinghe accepted the invitation. Fr. Don Peter later recalled that the two had a long conversation near the College swimming pool and finally resolved the differences arising from their 1960 controversy. Their friendship continued until Wickremasinghe’s death. At St. Joseph’s College, Wickramasinghe who spoke for nearly an hour urged English-educated Sinhalese to value their mother tongue, literature and culture, arguing that without such knowledge they could not understand or live harmoniously with their fellow countrymen. Afterwards, the Literary Association staged Amal Biso, written by Fr. Marcelline Jayakody OMI and produced by Fr. Joe Neththasinghe.
His friendship with Bishop Edmund Peiris likewise endured. More importantly, Wickremasinghe was closely observing the remarkable transformation occurring within Catholicism through the Second Vatican Council of 1962–65. He welcomed its liturgical and ecumenical reforms, greater openness towards other Christian traditions and the growing indigenization of the Church, regarding these as important steps in making Catholicism relevant to the modern world. For the Century Jubilee of the Gnanartha Pradeepaya in 1966, Martin Wickrasinghe wrote the following: “I cannot help but say that I have always had a great fondness for the paper, because of the taste and skill with which it is produced, and because, although its articles are religious in character, they are written in a manner that appeals to anyone. I believe that the editor deserves the highest praise for bringing out a publication of this kind.” (Translated by the writer)
When Edmund Bishop Peiris retired as Bishop of Chilaw in 1972, Wickremasinghe even contributed an article to the Gnanartha Pradeepaya, ironically, the same Catholic newspaper which had attacked him during the earlier controversy, praising Peiris as an important scholar and historian. Bishop Edmund Peiris later wrote perhaps one of the finest assessments of Wickremasinghe’s vast literary output, “The Sage of Koggala,” for his 85th birthday in 1975. More recently, Fr. Ivan Perera recalled to me that, as a seminarian in 1960, he typed Fr. Don Peter’s correspondence with Wickremasinghe for the Dinamina and years later when the controversy mellowed down accompanied Wickremasinghe to the Ampitiya National Seminary, where he addressed the seminarians and even spent the night in Ampitiya. All these are indications of how relations had changed as Wickremasinghe observed the evolution of the Church.
The reconciliation went further. Fr. Tissa Balasuriya, then Rector of Aquinas College, invited Wickremasinghe as Chief Guest at its convocation. Addressing the gathering Wickremasinghe spoke admiringly of Teilhard de Chardin and encouraged the students in their pursuit of learning and embedding an indigenous, original culture and religion.
Thus, the story did not end with the polemics of 1960. Wickremasinghe’s judgement became more nuanced, while the Catholic Church itself was undergoing significant change. Perhaps the lasting value of this episode lies not in deciding who won the argument, but in what followed it. Wickremasinghe and Fr. Don Peter disagreed sharply, yet dialogue eventually gave way to mutual respect and friendship. Their story reminds us that a civil exchange of opposing views need not deepen divisions. At its best, intellectual disagreement can correct misunderstandings, refine convictions and, ultimately, bring both sides towards a better understanding of one another.
Although Wickremasinghe’s relations with the Church improved, many of the questions he raised in the 1960s remain relevant. Less than 20 years after his death, Fr. Tissa Balasuriya’s Mary and Human Liberation came under severe ecclesiastical scrutiny, eventually leading to his temporary excommunication and controversy over the censorship of his work. Once again, Fr. Don Peter firmly defended the position of the Church.
The episode almost brings the story full circle. Questions of censorship, intellectual freedom and ecclesiastical authority, the very issues that had troubled Wickremasinghe decades earlier, had returned in a different generation and circumstance. One can only wonder: had Martin Wickremasinghe lived to witness it, what would he have said?
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