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Chai is tea, tea is Chai: India’s favorite hot drink

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Painting of Majuli Tea Estate, Assam by Bibek Kr Das

Indians took the tea the British were marketing to them, added spices, milk and sugar, and transformed it forever.

Chai can be enjoyed alone, but it excels in company
By Nupur Roopa

I remember jumping up to sit on the kitchen counter one afternoon. My five-year-old self wants to watch my mother making chai. She pushes me away from the gas stove but I am indignant and refuse to hop down, although I do move away a bit.The water bubbles. She adds sugar, then takes a flat steel grater, balances it on the edge of the pot and grates in adrak (ginger).

“Why do we add this?” I ask, watching the shreds fall into the bubbling water.

“Child, I have to hurry I don’t have time for your questions,” she says. I sulk but I know that, being a doctor, she has to get to the hospital on time. I will ask grandma, I tell myself.

The ginger threads dance in the water. Then she adds the tea leaves, turning the contents of the pot brown. Stirring, she adds milk and lets it simmer over a low flame, still stirring. After a few minutes, she removes it from the heat and covers it. I hop down to watch the next step. She strains it in cups, puts them on a tray, and carries it to the dining table.

I run out. I have no interest in tasting it but am proud, boasting to my friends: “I know how to make chai.” By the end of the day, I have memorized the process forever.I don’t want to ask to taste it because I know if I do, she will dilute it with more milk. “Children should not drink tea,” she would say. I hated that pale milky liquid.

The first time I tasted real chai, I was in grade three. I had scored good marks on a maths test and ran home that August afternoon to share the news with my mother and grandparents as they were having their chai. Basking in the appreciation and pats on my back, I asked if I could have chai. Mother refused, but grandfather smiled and poured some into a cup. I took it and breathed the aroma in deeply. I took one sip, then the second. The creamy, rich beverage warmed my heart and spirit and at that precise moment, I became a chai lover.

I yearned to make chai but wasn’t allowed. “What if you spill the boiling water and get burned,” my grandmother would fret. Finally, when I was in grade five, she reluctantly allowed me to make it under her supervision and soon I was making it alone.

Prerna Kumar and her family enjoy a mug of steaming chai on a chilly day

I felt so accomplished, measuring water, grating ginger, and scooping sugar and tea leaves to add to the boiling water. Watching the tea leaves spinning with the ginger. Then adding the milk and watching it lighten the chai and simmer, steeping the flavours. “A good cup of chai needs a slow fire,” I was told, something I follow to this day.

Fast forward a few years, and I am on my way home on a bitterly cold January evening in Indore. The sun is on leave and the wind drills into my bones. I enter a silent, cold apartment – my mother isn’t back from the hospital yet and my grandmother has moved to live with my uncle since my grandfather passed away.

I need chai. Soon, I’m sitting with a hot, steaming cup, sipping it slowly. I close my eyes, savouring the sweet milk, sharp ginger and cinnamon. By then, I was experimenting with spices and adding what felt right at the moment – cinnamon, fennel, green cardamom and more. I would add lemongrass, holy basil and peppercorns if I had a cold or sore throat.

Chai can be enjoyed alone,but it excels in company

Chai is tea, tea is chai

Chai in India is a drink for no reason and for every reason, morning, afternoon, evening and night. It lifts your spirits while studying for the maths paper or learning chemistry formulas. It spices college gossip and fans rumours. A welcoming or parting drink, to convince friends and family to stay longer to share more stories.

It brings everyone together. It is served in homes, board meetings, college canteens, cafes and at weddings. “Chalo chai ho jaye,” (Let’s have tea) is heard every day.

Tea is chai in India. When, where, and how the first cup of chai was brewed is still up for debate, it is our elders who gives us an idea about the evolution of this delicious, addictive beverage.

Prerna Kumar, founder of ChaiVeda and purveyor of medicinal blends, says: “The early reference to tea is found in the Buddhist texts where the monks drank some kind of tea while fasting and meditating.

“They made tea from foraged tea leaves and perhaps added certain flowers to the decoction to help them feel calmer.”

But how did tea become chai and give birth to chaiwallahs (chai sellers) and chai drinkers?

I remember sitting with my grandfather and a history book in grade 10. He could make history dance in front of your eyes but I wasn’t enthusiastic about that day’s lesson. It wasn’t about kings or queens or battles, but the dull history of the everyday drink. How interesting could it be?

Grandfather pushes the book away and tells me to just listen.

“Tea,” he began, “comes from China.”

With that, he launched a history

lesson replete with scenes of Britishers drinking tea, tea traders at seaports and expansive green tea plantations in Assam.

India is the largest consumer of tea in the world, the second-largest producer and the fourth-largest exporter – about 80 percent of its production is for domestic consumption

The English were introduced to tea when the Dutch East India Company began to import it into Europe in the 17th century, and its popularity gradually grew. By the 18th century, the English East India Company was importing enough tea from China that it was considered one of the company’s main assets. But there was worry over China refusing to renew the English trade

monopoly and a search for alternatives began.

English botanist Sir Joseph Banks suggested that the English in Assam grow tea there in 1778 after it was discovered that the Singpho tribe in Assam and Arunachal Pradesh drank a wild tea plant. But there was little interest until China broke the monopoly in 1833; two years later, tea growing in Assam began, food historian Mohsina Mukadam from Mumbai elaborates.

The Assam Tea Company was formed in 1839 and started marketing in Europe. Tea wasn’t a widely known beverage in India and it wasn’t until the start of the Great Depression in 1929 that the company looked at the Indian market to move its perishable stock, Mukadam added.

They started mandatory tea breaks in factories; tea-making demonstrations in markets and in homes where women could watch from the purdah (a screened enclosure); film screenings in villages to dole out free tea samples. Free tea on the purchase of saris. Tea sold at railway stations. But tea still wasn’t becoming as popular as hoped.

“The British were overconfident about changing our food habits,” grandfather smiled. Indians were wary of this new beverage. “We took it, added spices, milk, and sugar, transforming tea-making forever.”

Now I’m completely fascinated with the tea lesson.

Author and chef Sadaf Hussain, a lover of food history and stories, tells me later: “Britishers gave us the habit of tea but … we Indianised the recipe to suit our taste.

“We were used to drinking ‘kadha’ [herbal decoctions] for ages and we innovated tea into something similar by using spices, milk, and sugar. The addition of milk was … to increase the quantity as tea leaves were expensive and, India being an agricultural country, milk was easily available.”

Today, India is the largest consumer of tea in the world, the second-largest producer and the fourth-largest exporter. According to Tea Board India, the country produced 1.34 million tonnes of tea in 2021, about 80 percent of it for domestic consumption.

The best chai is inspired by the masala dabba, a quintessential presence in Indian kitchens

Masala chai

Basic masala chai is tea boiled in a mixture of milk, water, sugar, and any or all spices, like cardamom, cinnamon, clove, ginger or black pepper.

Every family has a special chai recipe. “Some like a mild version, others enjoy it strong,” chai-making is personal, Sadaf says. Some like ginger or cardamom, or both or neither, he explains.”There are around 20,000 ingredients that have been added to tea around the world,” shares Prerna. “It is mind-boggling … Anything that can be added to food can be added to tea.”

Masala chai can include herbs, spices and flowers – black pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, fennel, ginger, holy basil, liquorice, nutmeg, rose petals and more. The best chai is inspired by the masala dabba (box of spices), a quintessential presence in Indian kitchens. Ginger and black pepper are good for digestion and warming. Cloves, with their antiseptic properties, are good for sore throats and cardamom can elevate your mood.

I will never forget my Mumbai neighbour Sumathy Aunty’s masala chai. A new bride, I had reached Mumbai early that morning and was taking my stuff upstairs when the apartment next door opened and a lady draped in a sari dashed out, smiling over her shoulder in the way people in Mumbai do when they need to get somewhere.

I was new to Mumbai and wasn’t aware of what a feat it was to catch the trains crisscrossing the city. Every second counted and could delay you. That evening around seven, Sumathy Aunty knocked and asked me over for tea. What blossomed thereafter was a unique friendship between me, recently married and in my early twenties, and Sumathy Aunty, who was in her late fifties.

We would sip chai with farsan or chivda (fried lentil and flat rice spiced snacks) and sometimes, on rainy days, I would make mangodis (spiced lentil fritters), a speciality of central India, where I’m from. We exchanged recipes and cooking tips from our home states and she shared life skills to survive in Mumbai, a city that, for a small-town girl like me, was quite stressful.

Her chai was a caramel brew that always made me crave more. It had ginger, fennel seeds, cardamom and lemongrass, but there was more to it. When asked how she got it to taste this way, she attributed it to a mantra she chanted.

No two chais are the same, even the process and the mindset of the person making chai play a huge role, according to Prerna. “My husband is able to discern a difference if I am unhappy with him for some reason while making tea,” she laughs.

‘If you’re Indian, you must like tea’

South India has been a coffee stronghold for many years but things are starting to change as the humble chai made its way into people’s hearts and chai shops serving a variety ranging from ginger to masala and lemon hold pride of place along with “Kumbakonam coffee” houses, writer Chandrika R Krishnan shares.Every day is Chai Day. May 21 was declared International Tea Day in 2019 by the United Nations, but every day is Chai Day in India.

– Al Jazeera



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Tourism gets a World Bank powered boost

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By Zanita Careem

With Sri Lanka tourism entering a new phase of growth, the Deputy Minister of Foreign Affairs, Foreign Employment and Tourism, Professor Ruwan Ranasinghe outlined the Government’s forward looking approach, stressing that Sri Lanka must move forward, and must move beyond short term promotional efforts and build a tourism industry backed by clear strategy, stronger planning and measurable results. At the recent Press Conference, held at the SLTPB, Sri Lanka Tourism launched two World Bank supported consultancy assignments to develop a national tourism strategy and global promotional campaign road map, as the country seeks to attract high spending visitors and generate greater economic reforms. The National Tourism strategy planning consultancy for 2026-2031 will prepare a five-year framework, covering a forward looking approach, centred on transforming tourism into a more competitive sustainable and high value sector. For Sri Lanka, this initiative marks an important shift towards strategic, sustainable and inclusive tourism development with the aim of giving greater economic opportunities to the people. The Deputy Minister said the country does possess the natural beauty, cultural heritage and hospitality needed to compete globally. What is required now, he emphasised, is a coordinated approach that brings together government, industry stakeholders and international expertise.

For Professor Ranasinghe the way forward is not simply about bringing more tourists to Sri Lanka but about creating greater value from every visitor, diversifying markets, encouraging investment, strengthening the tourism institutions and developing a destination that can complete confidentially on the world stage. His speech reflected a clear message, Sri Lanka has the attraction, diversity and potential to compete with the world’s best destinations, but must be driven by stronger strategy, sharper global marketing and co-ordinated action.

He emphasised that Sri Lanka has not lacked tourism plans in the past. Previous governments and tourism authorities had undertaken considerable work and developed important plans but the challenges was that these efforts had not given the strength, continuity and implementation mechanisms needed to produce the desired results. The new approach, he stressed, is about giving tourism greater teeth through stronger planning, better governance, targeted investment, sustainable development and a much aggressive presence in the international markets.

(Q) Why is the launch of the National Strategies Planning Consultancy a major milestone for Sri Lanka’s tourism industry?

(A) The launch marks a turning point because it introduces a structured, evidence-based framework for tourism development. For years, Sri Lanka focused primarily on increasing visitor numbers, but despite strong arrivals, revenue growth lagged. This consultancy, supported by the World Bank, ensures that future strategies emphasise value creation, sustainability, and inclusivity. It is the first time Sri Lanka’s tourism industry is being aligned with global best practices, institutional reforms, and a clear roadmap for implementation, making it a landmark initiative.

(Q) What are key priorities that the new national tourism strategy will focus on?

(A) The new strategy prioritises enhancing visitor spending and length of stay, reducing revenue leakage by strengthening local supply chains, modernising institutions and regulations, and embedding sustainability across all tourism activities. It also emphasises skills development through curriculum modernisation at SLOTH, digital transformation of tourism data systems, and diversification of tourism products to attract high-value segments such as wellness, eco-tourism, and cultural tourism.

(Q) What major gaps in Sri Lanka’s existing tourism strategy do you hope to address?

(A) Previous strategies were heavily arrival-driven, with limited focus on yield per visitor. There was weak differentiation among destinations, limited integration with local communities, and insufficient institutional coordination. The new plan addresses these gaps by embedding sustainability, strengthening provincial tourism bureaus, diversifying products, and ensuring that tourism revenue benefits local communities more directly.

(Q) What is the vision behind Sri Lanka’s new global promotional campaign road map?

(A) The vision is to reposition Sri Lanka as a premier global destination by highlighting its unique blend of culture, nature, and wellness. The campaign, developed with international expertise, will use data-driven marketing, influencer collaborations, and destination storytelling to reach high-value markets. It aims to move beyond generic promotion and instead create a strong, differentiated brand identity for Sri Lanka.

(Q) How will this campaign change the way Sri Lanka is positioned and marketed internationally?

Professor Ruwan Ranasinghe: New international narrative for Sri Lanka

(A) Sri Lanka will be marketed not just as a tropical island but as a destination offering diverse, high-value experiences. The campaign will highlight wellness retreats, heritage tourism, eco-adventures, and community-based experiences. This repositioning will attract discerning travellers who seek authenticity and are willing to spend more, thereby increasing tourism’s contribution to the economy.

(Q) How will the Ministry ensure that the strategy does not remain another document, but is actually implemented?

(A) The consultancy includes costed action plans, institutional reforms, and monitoring mechanisms to ensure accountability. Stakeholder workshops and validation sessions will embed ownership across government, private sector, and communities. The Ministry is committed to ensuring that this strategy translates into tangible outcomes through structured implementation and regular progress reviews.

(Q) Are we ready to market Sri Lanka to the world at a much bigger level or do you first need to fix the gaps in the visitor experience before spending heavily on promotion?

(A) Both aspects must go hand in hand. While global promotion is essential to reposition Sri Lanka, the visitor experience must be strengthened to ensure repeat visitation and positive word-of-mouth. The strategy priorities service standards, infrastructure, and product diversification so that promotional spending translates into genuine value for visitors and communities alike.

(Q) What does the World Bank’s involvement bring to Sri Lanka’s tourism strategy that was missing from previous initiatives?

(A) The World Bank brings international expertise, credibility, and funding support. Its involvement ensures that Sri Lanka’s strategy is benchmarked against global best practices, with stronger institutional frameworks and better data systems. Unlike past initiatives, this partnership emphasizes sustainability, inclusivity, and value-driven growth, ensuring long-term resilience for the industry.

(Q) Will the World Bank’s expertise help Sri Lanka move from simply increasing tourist arrivals to attracting high-value tourists?

(A) Yes, the World Bank’s guidance is focused on shifting from volume-driven growth to yield-driven growth. By strengthening product development, diversifying markets, and embedding sustainability, Sri Lanka will attract high-value tourists who spend more, stay longer, and contribute positively to local communities and conservation efforts.

(Q) Will the new strategy place greater emphasis on sustainable and responsible tourism?

(A) Absolutely. Sustainability is at the heart of the new strategy. ECT-tourism, community-based tourism, and conservation initiatives will be scaled up to protect Sri Lanka’s fragile ecosystems and heritage. Responsible tourism practices will be embedded across the industry to ensure that growth does not come at the expense of the environment or local communities.

(Q) With the World Bank bringing international expertise to Sri Lanka’s tourism strategy, what is the one major transformation for the world to see in Sri Lanka as a tourism destination?

(A) The major transformation will be Sri Lanka’s repositioning as a high-value, sustainable destination. The world will see Sri Lanka move beyond being a volume-driven market to becoming a model of responsible tourism, where visitors enjoy authentic experiences while contributing to local prosperity and environmental conservation. This shift will redefine Sri Lanka’s global image and ensure long-term competitiveness.

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When food becomes the language of connection for Chef Sajesh Nair

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Royal medley of Indian flavours-at Nair’s Navaratne

By Zanita Careem

Behind every memorable dining experience is a chef whose passion transforms ingredients into something extraordinary. At Taj Samudra Colombo, the hotel’s Executive Chef, Sajesh Nair brings culinary artistry, precision and a deep understanding of flavours, curating dishes that are as refined as they are memorable.

With his passion for quality ingredients, attention to details and commitment to culinary excellence, Chef Nair continues to create flavours, turning the finest ingredients into culinary masterpieces, and transforming the dining table into a stage of indulgence.

Behind every memorable dining experience is a Chef who understands that food is more than what appears on a plate. For Chef Sajesh Nair cooking has been a lifelong journey, shaped by tradition, discipline, curiosity and a passion for authentic flavours.

With an impressive 30 years in the culinary tradition, including 17 years with Taj Hotels, Chef Sajesh Nair has built a career round creating a distinctive dining experience, while remaining deeply connected to the heritage of the cuisines he represented.

His journey with Taj has taken him through some of the group’s most prestigious properties. He was the Executive Chef at the celebrated Taj Falakruma, in Hyderabad, where he became particularly recognised for his expertise in Hyderabad and Nizami cuisine. “My philosophy was rooted in preserving traditional techniques while presenting them with refinement and creativity.” My passion for cooking began at an early age, “My journey was shaped by an early and lasting influence of my father.’’ It was through him that Sajesh developed an appreciation for food, discipline and dedication behind creating something truly special.

Turning ingredients into memorable experiences

His culinary credentials also came into spotlight when he led the team preparing an elaborate royal inspired menu for a high profile dinner at Taj Falakuma Palace, attended by Prime Minister Narendra Modi and Ivanka Trump.

At Taj Samudra Colombo, Chef Sajesh brought his wealth of experience to Sri Lanka’s hospitality scene. His culinary leadership extended to many restaurents, including the revamped Indian Restaurant Navaratne where he has created an experience, centred around cuisines from all parts of India. Adding depth to this culinary journey, Chef Sajesh philosophy fits naturally into the restaurant’s identity, offering guests an introduction to India’s culinary traditions while maintaining the standard of Taj hospitality. Navaratne has become more than an Indian restaurant, it’s a culinary passage to India with Sajesh Nair’s experience in helping bringing its flavours, traditions and stories to the table. Chef Sajesh Nair has a long Taj Hotel career and in Sri Lanka, as the Executive Chef of Golden Dragon – one of the hotel’s specialist restaurant, where he has brought his expertise and creativity to the kitchen, creating flavours that have delighted diners from all walks of life. His association with Golden Dragon, the Chinese restaurant, began in India where he worked at the restaurant as part of his early Taj Samudra hotel’s career. That experience gave him the exposure to the Chinese wider culinary techniques at the Golden Dragon Colombo.

Chef Sajesh Nair: Executive Chef, Taj Samudra, Colombo. Maestro behind flavours

At Taj Samudra Colombo, the Yumi Japanese restaurant is one of the hotel’s speciality dining outlets, His strength lies in creating dishes that balance authentic flavours with contemporary presentation, while his attention to detail and understanding of ingredients gave each creation its distinctive character. He embraced a wider gastronomic repertoire, mastering flavours and techniques from across the world. Chef Sajesh Nair’s culinary canvas extended beyond Indian cuisine. Nair’s role was not simply about mastering one cuisine but about creating different dining experience to suit different tastes. He curated extensive festive menus at Ports of Call and worked across the hotel’s speciality restaurants .

Chef Sajesh Nair’s journey extends beyond the restaurant kitchen with his career giving him opportunities to prepare food for celebrations, distinguished personalities and high profile guests in Sri Lanka and abroad. His work at the Golden Dragon and at the Yumi restaurent further reflect his versatility as a executive. Chef Nair led the culinary team at Taj Falaknuma Palace when a dinner was hosted for Narendra Modi.

Chef Nair and his team prepared the elaborate five-course royal Hyderabad/Nizami menu for Ivanka Trump during her Hyderabad visit. Mukesh Ambani and Ratan Tata both were among the prominent. Indian business leaders who attended the gala dinner. Among the distinguished personalities to experience Chef’s culinary artistry was Cherie Blair, who was among the guests at the glittering banquet at Taj Falaknuma Palace in Hyderbad during the 2017 Global Entrepreneurship Summit. He also curated menus for Mohamed Azharuddin’s wedding reception at Taj Mahal Palace. At this wedding he worked as a young Chef de Partie at the hotel where he won rave reviews. Later he steadily worked his way through the demanding hierachy of professional kitchens.

In Sri Lanka he has created menus for cricketers, both Sri Lankans and Indians. He was also the part of the team when he created various menus during PM Narendra Modi’s visit to Sri Lanka when he stayed at the Taj Samudra. He has also curated menus for all the higher profile personalities, like corporate clients and political figureheads, including the PM of Sri Lanka, Harini Amarasuriya.

From royal banquests in India to distinguished tables in Sri Lanka, Chef Sajesh Nair’s culinary journey is one marked by experience, versatility and an enduring passion for creating memorable dining experiences. His career reflects a Chef who has continually evolved with the times, while remaining rooted in the craft.

He quipped “For me food is more than what is served on a plate it is a way of connecting people.”

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CCWE National Workshop calls for collective action

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Yassas Hewage, Chairman, Industrial Development Board, with Amélie July, Deputy Director for Sri Lanka AFD, and Dr Ayanthi Gurusinghe

The Ceylon Chamber of Women Entrepreneurs (CCWE), in collaboration with the University of Kelaniya, brought together policymakers, development partners, private-sector leaders, academics, civil society organisations and women entrepreneurs at the National Workshop “Advocating for Change: Women’s Economic Empowerment through Collective Action.”

The workshop formed part of the FAME – Feminism: Action and Mobilisation for an Inclusive Economy Project, supported by the Agence Française de Développement (AFD), and focused on identifying practical pathways to create a more inclusive and enabling entrepreneurial ecosystem for women in Sri Lanka.

The national dialogue provided a platform to bring together policy-level perspectives with the experiences of women entrepreneurs and grassroots organisations, while presenting research evidence on the barriers, opportunities and institutional changes required to strengthen women’s participation in entrepreneurship and economic development.

Welcoming participants, Dr. Ayanthi Gurusinghe, President of the Ceylon Chamber of Women Entrepreneurs, emphasised that women’s economic empowerment cannot be achieved through isolated interventions or training programmes alone. She highlighted the importance of connecting women entrepreneurs with finance, technology, markets, knowledge, networks and policy-making institutions, while ensuring that the voices of women, at community level, are represented in national discussions. She noted that the purpose of “Advocating for Change” is to bring these different voices together and move from identifying challenges towards practical and sustainable solutions.

Dr. Gurusinghe further stressed the importance of collective action among government institutions, development partners, academia, the private sector, women’s chambers and community organisations to create meaningful economic opportunities for women across Sri Lanka.

Partnerships for Progress:

France’s Continued Support for Women’s Economic Empowerment, Matthieu John, Deputy Ambassador of the Embassy of France, highlighted the importance of partnerships in advancing inclusive economic development and reflected on the contribution of the FAME partnership in Sri Lanka.

Together we rise: power of collective action

He emphasised the value of strengthening women’s participation in economic decision-making and creating opportunities that enable women not only to establish enterprises but also to build sustainable businesses capable of contributing to employment, innovation and economic growth.The participation of France and AFD in the programme reinforced the importance of international development partnerships that support locally led initiatives, research, advocacy and collective action for women’s economic empowerment.

Creating an Enabling Ecosystem for Women Entrepreneurs:

Delivering the keynote address, Yasas Hewage, Chairman of the Industrial Development Board (IDB), focused on the importance of creating an enabling ecosystem in which women entrepreneurs can move beyond micro and livelihood-based enterprises towards sustainable, growth-oriented businesses. He highlighted the role of enterprise-development institutions in providing entrepreneurs with access to technical knowledge, technology, productivity improvement, business-development services, finance and markets.

Hewage also emphasised that strengthening women-owned enterprises should be viewed not merely as a gender or social-development intervention, but as an important component of Sri Lanka’s wider industrial and economic development

The National Workshop concluded with a call for stronger coordination and continued collective action among government, development partners, financial institutions, academia, the private sector, women’s organisations and entrepreneurs.

Among the broader priorities emerging from the dialogue were the need to strengthen access to finance and markets; improve technology, digital and business-development support; create stronger pathways from micro-enterprise to sustainable business growth; strengthen institutional coordination; improve access to opportunities for women outside Colombo; and ensure that women entrepreneurs have a stronger voice in policy and economic decision-making.

CCWE emphasised that the dialogue is intended to contribute to a wider process of evidence-based advocacy for women’s economic empowerment, ensuring that recommendations are informed not only by research and institutional perspectives but also by the lived experiences of women entrepreneurs themselves.

The workshop reaffirmed a central message: Women’s economic empowerment is not solely a women’s issue—it is fundamental to Sri Lanka’s inclusive economic growth, industrial development and long-term prosperity.

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