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Kandy Town I Knew In Mid-Twentieth Century

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By Hm Nissanka Warakaulle

The former Kandy town now has progressed to a city. During the time Sri Lanka (then Ceylon) got independence Kandy was not a very busy town. In fact, after nine o’clock in the evening the town was dead except for very few people on the roads and in the eating houses and of course, the places where bacchanalian spirits were available.

There were no buses available after nine. From Saturday afternoon and Sunday whole day the town was devoid of any activity, except for a few hotels which were open such as the Silverdale, Paivas, East China Restaurant and the Muslim Hotel. The buses and taxis were also available till evening.

The most important landmark near the bus stand was the clock tower which had been constructed by Mr. Ismail, the owner of the motor spare parts shop close to where the clock tower stands. It was built in memory of his son who died in an accident when the vehicle he was riding went down the precipice at Kadugannawa.

Many people passing through Kandy check the time from this clock tower. From the day it was commissioned up to date it has indicated the correct time on all faces of the tower unlike most of the other clock towers that were erected in many parts of the country to coincide with the Gam Udawa.

The only stand for buses plying around Kandy and long-distance buses to places such as Anuradhapura was on the clock tower side of the road. The buses to Colombo were in the Goodshed bus stand past the railway station and the post office. In front of the old market was the stand for vehicles which included cars, vans and lorries.

The corner section in front of the Wales Theatre was the hiring car stand. Later, new bus stands were established with more buses being used. The town service buses to Peradeniya, Penideniya and Ampitiya were shifted to the new bus stand on Torrington Road. The Colombo buses had a new stand near the Technical College and the Scout Headquarters. Another bus stand was on King Street.

Up to the end of 1957 these bus stands were used by the buses of the private bus companies such as the Kandy Omnibus Company which operated the town services, the PS Bus Co. operating on the Daulagala area, the WH Bus Co. operating on the Hanguranketha area, Sri Lanka Bus Co on the Kandy -Colombo Road up to Kadugannawa, Madyamalanka Bus Co. which had the monopoly on the Gampola area and beyond and the Silverline Bus Co. operating beyond Katugastota. Once the bus services were nationalized in 1958 only the CTB buses used these bus stands.

The old market was an open building if my memory serves me right. It was octagonal in shape, with stalls all around located according to what they were selling. Vegetable stalls were in one row, fruits in another, the fish, beef and pork stalls in still another row. Dry goods and rice were in a separate area. There was no dried fish stalls in the old market as all the dried fish boutiques were at the bottom of Colombo Street which people used to refer to as the Karawala Kada Veediyan(dried fish street).

The streets in the town carried named different names from what they are today. Dalada Veediya from the Clock Tower junction up to the Dalada Maligawa was known as Ward Street with the statue of Governor Ward standing just past the Queen’s Hotel. Trincomalee Street was the old name of DS Senanayake Veediya. Yatinuwara Veediya was earlier known as Browrigg Street. Castle Hill Street is now Kotugodella Veediya. King Street is Raja Veediya. Beyond the Maligawa the road was known as Malabar Street.

With the new market coming up and with the demolition of the old one, the hiring car stand was done away with and the Wales Theatre too was demolished. The new Wales Theatre was constructed above Torrington Road. But later this too was demolished to construct the new DS Senanayake public library. Another cinema that was demolished was the Bogambara Theatre. This was demolished to give way to the new Bogambara Stadium.

Before the stadium came up, all inter- club football matches were played there. On Independence Day, we as schoolchildren participated in the march past which was also held at Bogambara. This playground was used during the Kandy Esala Perahera for the carnival which was patronized by most of the people who came to watch the Perahera.

Adjoining the Bogambara grounds was the Bogambara prison. When football matches and other events took place on Bogambara, some prisoners used to hang on the bars of the windows to watch the play. Now the prison has been shifted to Pallekele. On the other side of the Bogambara grounds was the road to the Kandy hospital and there was a bus plying from the Kandy bus stand to the hospital.

St Paul’s College was situated next to St. Paul’s Church. This school was shifted from its earlier location as it was within the Dalada Maligawa sacred area and a new school established in Asgiriya with the new name, Sri Sumangala Vidyalaya. Just near the pond with a fountain was the Magistrate’s Court. The other courts were behind the Dalada Maligawa.

Close to the Empire hotel were all the chambers of the lawyers. All these courts and lawyers’ chambers were shifted to the new court complex which came up between Getambe and Suduhumpola on the other side of the new road and railway line.

The Dalada Maligawa was not protected with barricades and vehicles going to Tennekumbura and beyond were able to go past the temple. People traveling by bus from beyond Lewella and from Talatuoya were able to alight just in front of the Temple and go in through any of the doors which were always kept open, worship and leave through any door. This unlike now where one must use the main entrance only. Now all the vehicular traffic going beyond the Temple have to go round the Kandy lake and get onto the Malabar Street through a byroad (even during a period when there is a scarcity of fuel).

Kandy town then was not that congested as it is now and there was less vehicular traffic. Parking was permitted anywhere in the town. This was possible as only a few owned vehicles at that time and most of the people used public transport. There were many rickshaws parked in many places of the town. Many people used this man drawn means of transport. In fact, when my elder brother and I were admitted to Kingswood College, we used to travel to school and back in a rickshaw. We used to egg the poor rickshaw puller to run faster not realizing that it made him more fatigued.

Kandy then had only the Queen’s Hotel as a starred hotel. Later the Suisse Hotel came up on the side of the lake where the Malwatta Temple is located. Other than these two, the smaller hotels in town were the Silverdale and Paivas on Brownrigg Street, Castle Hotel, King’s Hotel, Empire Hotel, Lyon’s Café and East China restaurant.

Travelling from the Colombo Road or the Gampola Road, vehicles had to take the Kandy-Peradeniya Road, up to Girls’ High School junction where the road bifurcates with one going past the Good Shepard Convent and the lower road going past the Railway station and the main post office to reach the town. The post office was situated just near the level crossing and a little further up on the same side of the railway line was the police station which was approachable from the lower road as well as the upper road.

Both of these were very old buildings though the architecture was nothing to write home about. But still they had some sort of a majestic look. Later, to ease the congestion on the Peradeniya Road, a new road was constructed from Getambe to Kandy along the Meda Ela embankment which was named William Gopallawa Mawatha which went past the Kandy Hospital to town.

The railway line from Kandy to Matale ran adjoining the bus stand, under the bridge of the upper road, past the Meerakkam mosque which was near the level crossing with the road leading to Asgiriya on either side of the mosque. Thereafter the railway line goes under the Mahaiyawa bridge to the station at Mahaiyawa. From there it proceeds to Katugastota by the side of the main road and crosses bridge over the Mahaweli river to get to the Katugastota station.

In addition to the normal trains, there were railcars that used to run from Katugastota to Kandy and from Kandy to Peradeniya. There were halts at places where there were schools and offices so that schoolchildren and office workers used to travel by these railcars which were never crowded.

There were only three banks in Kandy at that time. The Mercantile Bank beside Queen’s Hotel, National and Grindlays Bank on the upstairs of the building adjoining the entrance to Torrington Road. Then Bank of Ceylon too opened a branch on Ward Place. The one and only reputed laundry, Queen’s Laundry, was also on this road. The three churches in the heart of the town were the Methodist Church on Brownrigg Street, St. Paul’s Church on Pavilion Street and the Baptist Church on Ward Street.

Kandy had the famous Peradeniya Botanical Gardens. As schoolboys we used to go to the Gardens to play cricket as there was no admission fee charged. The other two parks in Kandy were the small park in front of Muslim Hotel, now named George E de Silva Park and the park known as Wace Park which is situated on the Upper Lake Road now named Deveni Rajasinghe Mawatha . From this park one gets a bird’s eye view of ad part of the Kandy City with the Maligawa.

Now Kandy is a much developed city with new hotels, shops, branches of almost all commercial banks and supermarkets having been established. There is the new attraction of the Kandy City Centre too. But the city is very congested both with vehicular and pedestrian traffic.



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Features

Trump’s tariffs, AKD’s gazette and Sri Lanka’s diplomatic slumber

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“We are rather respectable in Colombo. We go to bed fairly early, and we remain there till morning. “

According to Sri Lanka’s diplomatic folklore, the late S.W. R. D. Bandaranaike uttered these words while explaining the reasons for Sri Lanka’s abstention on the UN resolution condemning the Soviet invasion of Hungary. Apparently, SWRD’s foreign ministry officials were asleep at home when the diplomatic cable seeking instructions was received from New York. In those days, there were no cell phones, Internet, or even fax or telex machines. The diplomatic cables were sent through post offices. Decoding them was a slow and time-consuming process. Thus, the government could not provide appropriate instructions to our mission in New York in time, and the Sri Lankan delegation abstained on that sensitive UN vote.

Sri Lanka’s Absence from Section 301 Consultations

But then, how does one explain Sri Lanka’s absence from the crucial bilateral consultation held in Washington by the Office of the United States Trade Representative (USTR) during March-April on “Forced Labour” under the Section 301 of the US Trade Act of 1974? Didn’t our foreign and trade ministries send appropriate instructions to Washington in time? Even if the instructions from the foreign ministry were transmitted to our embassy in Washington by pigeon carriers, there was enough time for Sri Lanka to participate in those meetings.

In March, the USTR initiated these 301 investigations on 60 trading partners, and invited all of them for confidential consultations. Out of the 60, 46 participated in these consultations. Sri Lanka was not one of them. Other countries that didn’t participate in these consultations included China, Russia, and Venezuela! In addition to that, the Section 301 Committee conducted a public hearing with interested parties on April 28 and 29. Washington-based diplomats, representatives from few trade ministries as well as representatives from many foreign trade associations and chambers participated in these hearings. Sri Lanka was once again conspicuously absent.

As a result, when the USTR published the proposed forced labour tariffs on June 2nd, Sri Lanka ended up with a 12.5% duty. Pakistani and Indonesian diplomats participated in these consultations and took appropriate follow-up measures, and managed to enter the 10% duty category. As even a threat of a modest tariff hike could disrupt supply chains and reduce competitiveness, particularly in an industry such as garments, I discussed this issue on 15 June and underscored the importance of Sri Lanka’s participation at the next hearing, which was scheduled to be held from July 7th .

Awakening from Diplomatic Slumber and AKD’s Gazette

Fortunately, Sri Lanka finally awoke from weeks of diplomatic slumber, and Ambassador Mahinda Samarasinghe participated in the public hearing on 9 July, and promised, “…. · We have agreed to the text in our negotiations with the USTR on forced labour, …. The gazette as we speak is being printed and I’m getting the gazette tomorrow morning, and the gazette will be shared with USTR as I get it“.

As promised, President Anura Kumara Dissanayake issued a gazette on 10 July banning the imports of goods produced by forced labour. These new regulations are very similar to what Pakistan and Indonesia enacted in April, after their consultations with USTR in March. Why couldn’t we do it in April? Why did we wait till the very last minute?

Challenges ahead

“War is too important to be left to generals alone,” is a famous saying attributed to former French Premier Georges Clemenceau. Similarly, monitoring our main markets is too important to be left to diplomats alone. The United States is the largest single-country market for Sri Lanka. Therefore, Sri Lankan trade chambers and associations should become more proactive in these markets and participate in these events. For example, the chairman of the Pakistani apparel exporters association participated in the April hearings. Similarly, representatives from the Indian Agricultural and Processed Food Products Export Development Authority, the Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry, the Confederation of Indian Industry, and Reliance Industries also participated in July hearings. At an event where each speaker is given only five minutes (strictly enforced), having a number of speakers from a country is an advantage. The presence of industry representatives in these kinds of events also help them understand the market dynamics and the future challenges. This is important, particularly because there will be many more challenges with Trump’s tariffs.

With the gazette issued on 10 July, Sri Lanka has imposed a prohibition on the importation of goods produced with forced labour. Now, the challenge will be to effectively enforce the prohibition. And what are the goods produced with forced labour? The USTR list only focuses on aluminum, cotton, electronics, lithium-ion batteries, rice, and tobacco. However, according to the U.S. Department of Labour, the list is much longer. Hence, this list may change continuously during the next two years and tariffs may fluctuate once again.

So, this is definitely not the time to slumber.

(The writer, a retired public servant, can be reached at senadhiragomi@gmail.com)

by Gomi Senadhira ✍️

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Tales of Mystery and Suspense 10 Casino for Sale

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After the overwhelming grotesquerie of J K Rowling’s latest Cormoran Strike novel (written, I should have noted, as the others were, under the pseudonym Robert Galbraith), I thought I should return to the world of fun, and also a much shorter description since this thriller moves quickly without the layers of detail that Rowling engages in.

I then move to the second comic thriller by Caryl Brahms and S J Simon. This, their second story to feature Vladimir Stroganoff and Adam Quill, was Casino for Sale, as lunatic a romp as the first, though without the emphasis on the ballet that characterized A Bullet in the Ballet.

This one begins with the impresario Stroganoff buying a casino cheap from Baron Sam de Rabinovich, only to find that it was a rundown place, not the grand casino of La Bazouche, a resort on the Frenc+h Riviera, as he had initially thought. The grand one belonged to Lord Buttonhooke, and Stroganoff could  not compete, until he thought of bringing the Ballet Stroganoff to the casino – which of course leads to Buttonhooke deciding to have ballet performances in his Casino too.

Stroganoff invites Quill to visit him, which Quill decides to do since he has left Scotland Yard, having come into a legacy. No one believes this, and he has to face questions as to what he did to have been sacked, with sympathy for having been found out.

Caryl and Simon

The day he arrives in La Bazouche there is a murder, of a vitriolic critic called Citrolo, in Stroganoff’s office. He had been going to write a damning review of the opening night of the ballet and Stroganoff, when he realizes Citrolo cannot be swayed, drugs him and dictates the review himself to the papers. He leaves Citrolo sleeping and finds him shot the next morning, whereupon he decides to muddy the waters and leave a suicide note and lots of other murder weapons. So much overkill, as it were, of course ensures that he is arrested.

But the excitable French detective who makes the arrest follows up his suggestion that Buttonhooke was also involved, and so the two casino owners find themselves in cells next door to each other, with the detective Gustave quite happy to provide creature comforts for a fee.

Quill decides he must investigate, and finds Gustave most cooperative, since he has a laid back attitude to work. So it is Quill that finds a notebook which makes it clear Citrolo is an accomplished blackmailer, and that there are lots of possible murderers, including Stroganoff’s croupier, who was crooked, Rabinovich, who was now working for Buttonhooke, a confidence trickster called Kurt Kukumber, whose prospectus for a dud gold mine was found in the office and Prince Alexis Artishok who was engaged in a deal to buy diamonds from the ballerina Dyra Dyrakova.

Stroganoff had been trying to get Dyrakova to dance for him, but having done so previously she had refused. But then to Stroganoff’s chagrin she agreed to dance for Buttonhooke. The clearly crooked Artishok had told Buttonhooke’s mistress Sadie Souse, who was not very bright, that Dyrakova possessed diamonds she was willing to sell cheap, and Sadie was determined to have them.

Quill meanwhile finds out that there was a secret passage to Stroganoff’s office, the obvious solution to what had begun as a locked room mystery, and that this was known by almost everyone apart from Stroganoff himself. And then Rabinovich is murdered, just after Gustave had released his two original suspects, leading him to blame Quill for having insisted on that and thus allowing them to kill again.

Soon afterwards Dyrakova arrives, and the town is full of posters announcing that she will appear in the casinos, elaborate posters for either one, since Stroganoff is determined that she will dance for him, and if she does not come willingly, he has devised a scheme to make her do so unwillingly. So, though Buttonhooke has her taken off to his yacht immediately she arrives at the station, Quill along with Arenskaya gets her into a launch and to Stroganoff’s casino, where she performs to tumultuous applause, not knowing for whom she is dancing.

When Quill asked her about the diamonds, she said she had sold them long ago, and that gave Quill the solution to the mystery. Rabinovich had known about this, and Artishok had killed him to prevent Sadie learning it from him, he had killed Citrolo who had recognized him for an accomplished card sharper, not a Russian prince at all. But before he is arrested, he gets away in a boat, and the police launch that pursues him is on the point of catching him up when it runs out of petrol.

Again, lots of excitement, and entertaining references  – Gustave grows marrows – and if not quite as brilliant as its predecessor, Casino was certainly a delightful read.

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The challenge of being positive about SAARC

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The RCSS forum addressed by SAARC Secretary General Ambassador Md. Golam Sarwar in progress. (Pic courtesy RCSS)

It was a few years back that a former President of Sri Lanka took it on himself to pronounce SAARC ‘dead’. Since then there have been other sections of Sri Lankan opinion that have joined the critics of SAARC and taken the solemn stance that SAARC has indeed died what may be called a natural death.

Their fatalism is understandable. SAARC has failed to meet at heads of government or state level for the past several years to take the SAARC process notably forward. Regional cooperation has more or less been only an appealing idea. No substantive concrete projects have taken off to make the idea a hard reality. ‘Inner paralysis’ seems to be SAARC’s lot. Hence the fatalism in these circles.

However, being one of the worst cash-strapped regions of the world and a teemingly populated one with people virtually left to their devices, what choices do the ‘SAARC Eight’ have other than to try their best to band together and continue with their cooperation efforts, however small they may be?

There is no escaping the mounting debt trap for many of these countries and bankrupt Sri Lanka is a glaring example, but ‘throwing in the towel’ and abandoning themselves entirely to the diktats of the strongest economies and their agencies will prove a ‘living death’ for many countries in the SAARC fold.

The gains may be meagre but giving-up on SAARC cooperation in full would prove self-defeating for the organization and South Asia. Right now, the collective intention ought to be to salvage what the region could from the tenuous cooperative efforts. Moreover, such initiatives could go some distance to generate a degree of goodwill among the Eight and help in sustaining a dialogue process.

Given this backdrop it proved ‘a stich in time’ for the Regional Centre for Strategic Studies (RCSS), Colombo, to recently host the SAARC Secretary General Ambassador Md. Golam Sarwar to a round table discussion on the unifying potential of SAARC and its future possibilities, besides other related issue areas.

Held on June 24th and moderated by RCSS Executive Director and former ambassador Ravinatha Aryasinha, the forum brought together a vibrant, wide ranging audience comprising academicians, diplomats, senior public servants, civil society activists and many others. Following the presentation by Ambassador Golam Sarwar titled, ‘Reigniting SAARC: Achievements, Challenges and the Way Ahead’, a lively Q&A followed.

The above forum could be described as an act of lighting the proverbial ‘candle’ rather than ‘cursing the darkness.’ It surely is a ‘darkness’ that could be seen as daunting considering that the region’s pivotal powers, India and Pakistan, are failing to act in a spirit of accord but are engaged in bitter finger-pointing on a number of questions of vital importance to SAARC.

On the other hand, what is the rest of the region doing to bring the above sides together? It is disappointing that to date the rest of SAARC has failed to launch a major diplomatic drive to bring peace between the feuding regional heavyweights. It needs to act without delay and establish its earnestness and this effort would need to prove SAARC’s staying power in the unfolding months and even years.

In assessing SAARC’s seeming failure local opinion in particular has failed to factor in what could be described as weak leadership. Since Sheikh Mujibur Rahman of Bangladesh, the founding father of SAARC, the region has failed to produce a visionary leader who could advance the SAARC cause with charisma and drive.

Among other reasons, weak leadership accounts considerably for the faltering and stuttering status, as it were, of SAARC. Badly needed are leaders who could go the extra mile, think less of narrow national interests and work diligently towards the collective well being of the region but SAARC’s millions of ordinary people have been made to wait in vain for leaders of such stature. Instead, they have been burdened with politicians who seem to be relishing the apparently moribund state of SAARC.

Looking back, it could be said that it was the dynamic leadership factor that led to the launching of the Non-Aligned Movement and for its sustenance for a few decades. True, it could be seen in some quarters that NAM is no more, but as in the case of SAARC, the former too has been unfortunate to be burdened over the years with politicians who lack the vision and drive to unflaggingly advance the fortunes of the South. NAM and SAARC lack the dynamism and vision of leaders of the stature of Jawaharlal Nehru, for example, to give them the required guidance and intellectual depth.

The reasons are complex for there not being among us currently political leaders with the vision and the steadfast commitment to advance the legitimate interests of the South. However, it could be stated with conviction that the majority of Southern leaders have too easily caved in to the demands of the global North and its financial agencies.

These leaders have failed to see, for instance, that the largely market economy oriented Northern governments would not view with favour a centrist economic model that attaches priority to the interests of the dis-empowered publics of the South. This realization ought to have dawned on the current government in Sri Lanka, for instance, some while ago but it has no choice but to abide by IMF dictates since economic survival at present is unthinkable without the latter’s succour.

Accordingly for SAARC this should be the time for some soul-searching. Priority needs to be attached to ending the feuding between India and Pakistan since at present the material fortunes of the region hinge largely on these regional giants giving peaceful relations among them a try. This is no easy challenge to meet but some daring, visionary diplomacy needs to take hold among the rest of SAARC.

There is some sense in SAARC bringing the peoples of the region together through programs that address their best collective interests. A meeting of minds among SAARC nations could enable SAARC and its agencies to build a region-wide people’s movement for progressive political and economic change that could in turn lead to the region’s political leaders sensitizing themselves more to the neglected needs of their publics.

However, the time is ‘now’ for the initiation of these progressive changes and the voice of SAARC well wishers would need to drown out those of their critics.

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