Features
HUNGARY-CZECHOSLOVAKIA-LIECHTENSTEIN-SWITZERLAND
CONFESSIONS OF A GLOBAL GYPSY
By Dr. Chandana (Chandi) Jayawardena DPhil
President – Chandi J. Associates Inc. Consulting, Canada
Founder & Administrator – Global Hospitality Forum
chandij@sympatico.ca

After an enjoyable stay in Austria, we were ready to continue our six week-long winter trip to 16 countries. Vienna is a perfect hub to visit cities of countries adjoining landlocked Austria. Today, it is bordered by eight other countries – the Czech Republic and Germany to the north, Slovakia and Hungary to the east, Slovenia and Italy to the south, and Switzerland and Liechtenstein to the west. As the next step of our adventure, we planned to travel to Hungary and then Czechoslovakia, or Czecho-Slovakia
HUNGARY
Having arranged to travel to Hungary with a travel agency in Vienna, we woke up early morning to meet the Austrian driver/tour guide who came in a small van to pick us up. He was friendly and so were the other passengers, four British teachers working in Saudi Arabia. After an hour of travel from Vienna, we reached the Austria-Hungary border. There was a small challenge there. Hungarian visa officers required our photographs, but their photo machines were out of order. We were allowed to rush back to the Austrian side of the border to take photographs for Hungarian entry visas. After that, the trip was without any further setbacks.
Hungary is another landlocked country in Central Europe. The territory of present-day Hungary has for centuries been a crossroads for various peoples, including Celts, Romans, Germanic tribes, Huns, West Slavs and the Avars. The foundation of the Hungarian state was established in the late 9th century. By the 12th century, Hungary became a regional power, reaching its cultural and political height in the 15th century. After that it was partially occupied by the Ottoman Empire for over 150 years. Hungary came under Habsburg rule at the turn of the 18th century, later joining with the Austrian Empire to form Austria-Hungary, a major power into the early 20th century.
The Austro-Hungary Empire collapsed after World War I, and after World War II, Hungary became a satellite state of the Soviet Union. Following the failed 1956 revolution, Hungary became a comparatively freer, though still repressive, member of the Eastern Bloc. A few years after our visit in 1985, the removal of Hungary’s border fence with Austria accelerated the collapse of the Eastern Bloc and the Soviet Union. That was a part of a broad wave of revolutions in various communist countries of Central and Eastern Europe.
Győr
En-route to Budapest, the capital city of Hungary, we visited a small city with a population of 70,000, Győr. In spite of the small size, it is the sixth largest city in the country and it is also the main city of Northwest Hungary. As it is halfway between Vienna and Budapest, and situated on one of the important roads of Central Europe, it appeared to have some movement of tourists. In 1985, the total population of Hungary was around 10.5 million and today it has gone down below 10 million. Twenty percent of Hungarians or in 1985, over two million lived in Budapest.

Budapest
We reached Budapest by mid-morning and could not believe our eyes. Based on our first impressions and experiences in a few key cities in the Eastern Bloc countries in 1985, our expectations were not high. Budapest was clean, beautiful, grand and friendly. “No wonder that some call it the Paris of the East”, I told my wife.
The history of Budapest is the history of three cities: Óbuda (old Buda), Buda the high city found on the banks of the left bank, and Pest, found on the right bank. The history of Budapest began when an early Celtic settlement transformed into the Roman town of Aquincum. The Hungarians arrived in the territory in the late 9th century, but the area was pillaged by the Mongols in the mid-13th century. Re-established Buda became one of the centres of Renaissance humanist culture by the 15th century.
After the reconquest of Buda in late 17th century, after a 150 year long Ottoman rule, the region entered a new age of prosperity, in 1873, with the unification of Buda, Óbuda and Pest the name ‘Budapest’ given to the new capital of Hungary. Budapest also became the co-capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
Bisected by the Danube River, Budapest’s cityscape is studded with architectural landmarks Buda’s medieval Castle Hill and grand neoclassical buildings along Pest’s Andrássy Avenue to the 19th-century Chain Bridge are impressive. Turkish and Roman influence on Hungarian culture explains the popularity of mineral spas, including at thermal Lake Hévíz.
We visited most of the key tourist attractions in Budapest and nearby areas, including Matthias Church, Buda Castle built in the 13th century, Fisherman’s Bastion, which is an architectural icon of the city, and one of Europe’s oldest and most beloved coffee-houses, Café Gerbeaud. Our lunch at a small restaurant included goulash soup which was much hotter than the versions I had tasted before, and used to prepare when I was an executive chef. I also made a short visit to the best five-star international hotel in the city, Budapest InterContinential. On our way back to Vienna, we stopped again in Győr for refreshments.
CZECOSLOVAKIA
Towards the end of our stay in Austria, I planned a quick trip to Czechoslovakia. My wife wanted to skip that trip to spend the day with her mother and our Austrian friends, doing fun things in Vienna. I went alone to Czechoslovakia early in the morning with a group of tourists travelling in a coach. Learning from a bad experience at the Bulgaria-Romania border, 10 days prior, I took the advice from the Austrian travel agency, and armed myself with an additional visa for Czechoslovakia.
Czechoslovakia was an interesting country with a population of 10 million divided among two main ethnic groups – the Czech people and the Slovak people. Ethnic Czechs were called Bohemians in English until the early 20th century, referring to the former name of their country, Bohemia. Czechoslovakia was a sovereign state created after the World War I, when it declared its independence from Austria-Hungary. In 1938, at the eve of World War II, a major territory of the country became part of Germany, while the country lost further territories to Hungary and Poland.
After World War II, the country of Czechoslovakia was re-established, with the exception of Carpathian Ruthenia, which became part of the Ukrainian SSR (a republic of the Soviet Union). From 1948, Czechoslovakia was part of the Eastern Bloc. A period of political liberalization in 1968, known as the Prague Spring, was violently ended when the Soviet Union, assisted by some other Warsaw Pact countries, invaded Czechoslovakia.
Four years after my visit, in 1989, as Marxist–Leninist governments (and communism) were ending all over Central and Eastern Europe, Czechoslovaks peacefully deposed their socialist government in the Velvet Revolution. Later, in 1993, Czechoslovakia peacefully split into the two sovereign states of the Czech Republic and Slovakia as the result of nationalist tensions among the Slovaks.
Bratislava
The tour coach reached Bratislava, by mid-morning. Bratislava in 1985, the second city of Czechoslovakia and today the capital of Slovakia, is set along the Danube River by the border with Austria and Hungary. It’s surrounded by vineyards and the Little Carpathian Mountains, criss-crossed with forested hiking and cycling trails. The pedestrian-only, 18th-century old town is known for its lively bars and cafés. When we reached the city, the coach left us and the driver asked us to meet him in the same spot in eight hours.
That was a challenging excursion as no one at information and tour desks spoke any English. My German was not good enough to find my way. Bratislava and suburbs had several universities, and as a result there were many student excursionist. I eventually became friendly with a couple of students from West Germany, who liked to practice speaking English, and a Czechoslovakian student. We created our own city itinerary for the day, with the help of her Slovak-English dictionary.
Bratislava Castle
We visited the picturesque Bratislava whose Old Town banks the Danube River. It is relatively a smaller city with a population of around 350,000. It is one of the best preserved medieval old towns in Europe. Besides the colourful medieval houses, impressive churches, bell towers and beautiful baroque palaces, the most enchanting building is definitely the Bratislava Castle. Perched atop a hill, the reconstructed Bratislava Castle overlooks old town and the Danube.
My new friends and I spent hours at the castle in the midst of heavy snowing. When snow fall eased, we walked a lot around the city. We had lunch in a Slovak cellar type restaurant. After lunch we continued our discovery tour by foot. It was wet and cold, but fun.
An Assignment in Switzerland
When I returned to Vienna, I received a call from Sri Lanka. It was my father-in-law who ran our family business – Streamline Services, a travel agency and hospitality consulting company. We also represented a few well-known hotel schools in Europe for whom our company recruited students from Sri Lanka.
My father-in-law, Captain Wick chatted over the telephone for a long time. He said, “Chandi, the HotelConsult Hotel School contract you secured for us three years ago has progressed well. When you are in Switzerland, HotelConsult has invited you to check their facilities, meet our students, have a luncheon meeting with the President of the school, and also deliver a guest lecture. Their main campus is in Brig, which is only a three-hour train ride from Zürich which you have planned to visit. Can you go there and spend a couple of days?”
I said, “Yes, Captain!” and changed my travel plans immediately. My wife and mother-in-law suggested that I go to Switzerland alone on the business trip while they went on to Munich to stay with our good Bavarian friends in West Germany. We agreed to part for three days.
After leaving Vienna, the train passed some beautiful Austrian villages as well as cities such as Linz, Salzburg, Innsbruck and Bludenz. Mr and Mrs. Schädler, an elderly couple returning to their country Liechtenstein, after a week in Vienna, became friendly with me, and were impressed with my hunger for global travels. “On your way to Zürich, why don’t you visit our country?” Mrs. Schädler asked me. When I told them that I don’t have a visa, Mr. Schädler was quick to encourage me saying “there are no border controls between Liechtenstein and Switzerland and, the Swiss visa is valid in Liechtenstein.” I was tempted.
The train reached the Swiss border city Buchs around 3:00 pm. When I realized that Liechtenstein was only five miles away, I changed my mind, and travel plans and got off the train. After leaving my bag in a station locker, I took a bus to Liechtenstein.

LIECHTENSTEIN
Liechtenstein is a German-speaking, 61-square mile wide principality between Austria and Switzerland. It’s known for its medieval castles, alpine landscapes and villages linked by a network of trails. In 1985, with a population of only 26,000 (today, 39,000 inhabitants) Liechtenstein is one of the smallest countries in the world. It is the same size as the District of Columbia, in the USA. Liechtenstein is the world’s wealthiest country. According to the World Bank, its annual per-capita income is $175,813, ranking Liechtenstein ahead of Monaco, Luxembourg, Switzerland and Bermuda in 2022.
Vaduz
Vaduz, the capital of Liechtenstein, sits on the Rhine River near the Swiss border. It is a cultural and financial centre, home to Kunstmuseum Liechtenstein, with galleries of modern and contemporary art. The Postmuseum displays Liechtenstein’s famous postage stamps. Although ideal for tourism, the largest hotel in the city had only 41 rooms! The main attraction is the Vaduz Castle.
Vaduz Castle
On a hillside overlooking the town, Vaduz Castle dates back to the 12th century and is a royal family residence. The nearby national museum houses archaeological and cultural artifacts in a medieval building. After a brief visit to Vaduz, I took a bus to return to Buchs in Switzerland. But I realized that it was now getting too late to travel to Brig according to my original plan before my spur of the moment decision to visit another country.
SWITZERLAND
Having travelled in Switzerland for studies and leisure three years ago, I was familiar with half a dozen key cities in this beautiful country. Switzerland’s political structure is fairly unique in the world. In total, there are 26 cantons (states of the Swiss Confederation) with an average population of 250,000 per canton. The primary language in 19 cantons is German, six cantons are French and one canton is Italian. In 1985 the population of Switzerland was only 6.5 million (today, nearly 10 million).
Before catching the last train from Buchs, I called HotelConsult to inform them about my slight change of travel plans. Then I called my Ceylon Hotel School batch mate and hostel mate for three years, Patrick Taylor (Patta) who was living in Zug with his Swiss wife, Judy. They met, fell in love and got married when Patta was the first Executive Chef of Triton Hotel and Judy was a Tour Leader for a Swiss tour operator in Sri Lanka. They invited me to their home, which was 30 minutes south of Zürich by train. They came to the Zug railway station to pick me up.
Zug
As I arrived in Zug, when it was very dark and cold, and did not see much. Zug is the main town and capital of the Swiss canton of Zug. The city is small and had a population of just over 20,000. Its name originates from the fishing vocabulary; in the Middle Ages it referred to the right to pull up fishing nets and hence to the right to fish. This town is well-known for its low taxes and affluence with beautiful nature. The historic town of Zug a favourite destination for those who are fond of discovering noteworthy landmarks.
I stayed in Patta and Judy’s house that night. Judy quickly prepared a traditional Swiss meal including Zürcher geschnetzeltes (meat cut Zürich-style), a simple but very tasty dish consisting of veal cooked with mushrooms, cream, onions and wine. Patta prepared rösti (a Swiss dish made with raw grated potatoes and butter).
Zürcher geschnetzeltes mit rösti
As Judy was starting a new job next day, she went to sleep early leaving Patta and I to catch up about our memorable college years. After dinner I had a long chat with Patta till early hours in the morning. We talked about how our lives have changed since we first met 14 years ago in Colombo. Judy had motivated Patta to set up a small business in Zug called, Taylor Catering Services. “Machang, I also make some income from a new hobby of mine, Patta told me.
Their apartment was beautiful and had a collection of large abstract paintings. Patta surprised me when he told me that he is the artist. Painting had been something he tried after settling in Switzerland. I never knew about my friend’s artistic talent when we were college students. Those beautiful paintings inspired me to try abstract painting myself. I did this for many years after that, with a few solo abstract art exhibitions in four countries in South Asia, South America, the Caribbean and North America. Thanks for the motivation, Patta!
Patrick Taylor and I during a CHS trip in early 1970s
Patta was fascinated with my travel record and future travel ambitions. “Machang, where else are you travelling during this trip before returning to your base in London?” he asked. I said, “just a few brief
stops in Zürich, Bern, Brig, Lax, Fiesch, Lausanne, Luzern, Munich, Paris, Amiens, Boulogne-Sur-Mer and Dover.” Patta laughed loud and said, “The travel bug has certainly bitten you, Chandana!”
The last lap of the six-week long trip
To be continued next Sunday…
Features
Trump’s Delinquent War Game: No Early End in Sight
It is fruitless analyzing US President Trump’s reasons for going to war with Iran or the conflicting outcomes he says he is looking to have in the end. It is quite possible that he may have made the decision to attack Iran after being cajoled by Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu. It is a good time to attack because Iran is at its weakest moment yet posing an imminent threat warranting a pre-emptive attack. Strange and circular reasoning is needed to justify unnecessary wars.
True to form, Trump did not consult any of his western allies the way his predecessors did in similar situations. He ignored NATO as much as he ignored the UN. Nor did Trump go through the internally established broad consultation and focused decision making processes that US presidents usually undertake before committing American forces abroad. The Congress, the institution under Article I of the American Constitution, was also habitually ignored .
It is likely that Trump secured tacit support from other Middle East governments, especially the Gulf states of Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, Qatar, UAE and Oman that are Iran’s neighbours. The latter may seem to have been hoping to have it both ways – letting US and Israel take out Iran’s reprehensible regime while appearing to stay neutral in the fight. That calculation or miscalculation explosively backfired when Iran started firing drones and missiles not only into Israel but practically into every Arabian (Persian) Gulf country, hitting not only American bases but also civilian centres. The welcoming reputation of the Gulf countries as secure oases for foreign investment, tourism, sports and entertainment has been seriously shattered.
Escalating War
In addition to the six Gulf states, Iranian missiles have reached Iraq, Jordan and far away Cyprus. Even Turkey and Azerbaijan have been targeted. Israel has been hit and has suffered casualties far more in the few days of fighting than it has in all the past aerial skirmishes. The US outposts are under attack as well. The Embassy in Kuwait was hit on Monday. The next day two drones fell on the US Embassy in Riyad, Saudi Arbia, apparently the most fortified American outpost abroad. This was followed by drone attacks on the US Consulate in Dubai and on the American military base in Qatar, the largest in the region. Six American servicemen have been killed and 18 injured in the first four days of the war.
The Trump Administration that has been notorious for picking countries to deny US visas, is now asking Americans to return home from 14 Middle East countries for the sake of their own safety. Washington has closed its embassies in Riyadh and in Kuwait and has ordered non-emergency staff and families to depart from its other embassies in the region. But leaving the embattled region is not easy with flights cancelled and air space closed. Belatedly, the State Department is scrambling to make arrangements to help stranded Americans find their way out by air or by land to neighbouring countries. It is the same story with governments of other countries whose citizens are living and working in large numbers in the Middle East. The monarchs of Middle East depend on migrants of many hues to do their blue collar and white collar labour while keeping their citizens in cocoons of comfort. That equilibrium is now under threat.
Iran’s losses are of course significantly higher, already hit by over 2,000 Israeli and US missiles reaching multiple targets in 26 of Iran’s 31 provinces. Over a thousand people have been killed including 180 students in a girls’ school in the south. Buildings and infrastructure and installations are being devastated. Israel has opened a full second front in Lebanon using the thoughtless Hezbollah’s aerial provocation as excuse for once again badgering Beirut and its suburbs. A week into the war there is no early end in sight. Only escalation.
Not only Iran but even the US is extending the waves of war. A US submarine torpedoed without warning and sank the IRIS Dena, a Moudge-class Iranian frigate, in the Indian Ocean not far from Galle. The frigate had about 130 sailors on board and was sailing home after participating in the International Fleet Review (IFR) and multilateral exercise, MILAN-2026, organized by the Indian Navy at Visakhapatnam. The frigate was reportedly not carrying weapons in keeping with the protocol for international naval exercises. Also, according to reports, Americans were in the know of the Fleet Review in India and its participants. Yet the US Secretary of War, Pete Hegseth, went on public television to say: “An American submarine sunk an Iranian warship that thought it was safe in international waters,. Instead, it was sunk by a torpedo. Quiet death.” How tragically surreal!
It fell to little Sri Lanka to respond to the distress call of the sinking sailors. Sri Lanka’s navy and emergency services have done an admirable job in fulfilling their humanitarian responsibilities. The Sri Lankan government has also handled a difficult situation, complicated by a second Iranian ship, with poise and purpose. On the other hand, unless I missed it, I have not seen any official reaction by the Indian government to the reckless sinking of one of its guest ships. An opposition parliamentarian of the Congress Party, Pawan Khera, has been cited as asking on X, “Does India have no influence left in its own neighbourhood? Or has that space also been quietly ceded to Washington and Tel Aviv?”
India is not the only one that has ceded space and time to the bullying whims of Donald Trump. With the exception of Spain, the entire West is literally genuflecting for fear of getting hit by tariffs. Notwithstanding the US Supreme Court ruling much of Trump’s tariffs to be illegal, and a Federal Court now ordering that the collected monies should be paid back to those who had paid them. The situation is a far cry from the European reaction and the public lampooning of Bush and Blair when they went to war in Iraq two decades ago.
The Missile Math
Two factors may objectively determine the course and the duration of Trump’s war: weapons stockpiles and the oil and natural gas markets. Higher prices of oil and natural gas will increase domestic pressure on Washington to find an offramp to the war sooner than later. Other countries may have to suffer not only higher prices but also shortages of fuel. The weapons are a different matter.
The ongoing aerial warfare involves the use of drones and missiles to attack as well using defensive missiles to detect and destroy incoming projectiles before they hit their targets. After the beating it took last year and this week, Iran has no missile defense system to speak of, but it has both a stockpile of drones and missiles and capacity for rapidly producing them. The military question is whether Iran’s stockpile of offensive drones and missiles can outlast the combined defensive missile stockpile of the US, Israel and the Middle Eastern countries. There is no clear answer, only speculations about Iran and US concerns over its own stockpile.
The “troubling missile math,” as it has been called is underscored by the concern expressed by US Secretary of State Marco Rubio, that Iran has the capacity for “producing, by some estimates, over 100 of these missiles a month. Compare that to the six or seven interceptors that can be built a month.” The worry is also about the depleting impact that the extended use of interceptors against Iran will have on American stockpiles elsewhere in the world, especially in areas involving China. That is part of the standard military calculation. What is bizarre now is that after starting the war on a whim last Saturday, Trump is convening a meeting within a week on Friday with weapon manufacturers to urge them to produce more.
Secretary Rubio also added that destroying Iran’s missile capacity is the goal of the US campaign. Iran’s missile capacity involves different missiles with different flight ranges. The shorter the range the larger the stock. Iran does not have the standard two-way intercontinental ballistic missile, and it is nowhere near developing them. The current Administration has recklessly claimed that Iran is capable of launching missiles to hit America and has unfairly named and blamed all previous presidents for not doing anything about it.
Trump’s predecessors were fully aware of America’s unmatched military superiority and Iran’s utter limitations. They were also aware that going to war with Iran to destroy its drones and limited range missiles will create more problems without solving any. The Obama Administration in consort with China, UK, France, Germany and Russia produced the Joint Comprehensive Plan of Action (JCPOA) committing Iran to have nuclear programs for peaceful uses only. Trump tore up the Obama plan and instead of using the opportunity this year to create a new and stronger program, chose to start a war instead.
As things are, unless the US-Israel axis succeeds in literally obliterating all drones and missile production resources in Iran, Iran will retain the capacity to produce drones and short-range missiles with which it could torment its neighbours for long after Trump and Netanyahu declare the war to be over. It may never be a long-range menace – in fact, it never was – but it could become an even greater short-range nuisance.
The US is no longer indicating a time limit for the war to end. For Netanyahu, it is not going to be an endless war. Of the two, Israel might be having some clear objectives to be achieved before ending the war. For Trump and his Administration, on the other hand, the objectives of the war are chaotically evolving on a daily basis, and the world will have to wait till the man of the deal finds some outcome or outcomes that can be shown as success and call it quits.
Regime Change: Insult after Injury
Iran’s Supreme Leader and forty or so other top Iranian leaders were taken out in the first minute of the fight by “pinpoint bombing”, as Trump boasted in his auto-poetic truth social post. But the Iranian regime has not collapsed. It has shown remarkable structure and durability despite the death of its Supreme Leader. It is America that is showing its inability to contain its Supreme Leader from going berserk on the world through tariff and bombing terror – in spite of all the checks and balances that Americans thought they have constitutionally practised and honed over 250 years. It is also poetic comeuppance for the Iranian regime that, after 47 years, it should now face its undoing by an unhinged American hegemon for theocratically subverting the 1979 revolution from realizing any of its secular possibilities.
Trump now wants to add insult to injury by forcing himself into the succession process for selecting a successor to Ayatollah Ali Khamenei. Iran has a well-established succession process, almost akin to the conclave in the Vatican, in which a body of 88 elder clerics, the Assembly of Experts, are convened to elect through a secret vote the new Supreme Leader. Over the last few days, it has been widely reported that the late Khamenei’s 56 year old son Mojtaba Khamenei has emerged as the leading candidate to succeed his father as the next Supreme Leader. His political strength and leadership claim are reportedly based on his close connections to the powerful Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps (IRGC).
Mojtaba is said to have been the shadow Supreme Leader in recent years making decisions in place of his ageing father. For that reason, he is reviled by Iranians who are opposed to the regime and who have been oppressed by the regime. There are also allegations and rumours about his amassing wealth and investing in properties and opening bank accounts in London and Geneva. At the same time, there could also be sympathy for him in the ruling circles because it was not only his father and his mother who were killed in the first minute bombing but also his wife and his son. While ideologically he has been a hawk, Mojtaba is also described as a “pragmatist.” Being pragmatic in the current context, according an unnamed Tehran academic, would imply that Mojtaba Khamenei will be seeking revenge for the US-Israeli attacks on his family and his country – not through victory in war but by ensuring “the survival of the Islamic Republic.”
President Trump is not bothered about the dynamics and nuances of Iranian leadership politics and has no hesitation in inserting himself into the succession process. In an interview with the American news website Axios, Trump has declared that he wants to be personally involved in the Iranian succession process, and that the selection of the younger Khamenei would be “unacceptable” to him, because “Khamenei’s son is a lightweight.” “I have to be involved in the appointment, like with Delcy [Rodríguez] in Venezuela,” Trump went on, because “we want someone that will bring harmony and peace to Iran.”
Comparing Venezuela and Iran is no less preposterous than the Bush Administration’s decision to invade Iraq in addition to Afghanistan in order to punish Al Quaeda for 9/11. Trump now appears to be seeking not a wholesale regime change but a retail leadership change in the old regime. This is only the latest addition to his lengthening wish list for the war with no method or plan to achieve any of them. Add to the growing list the news that the CIA is putting together a Kurdish insurgent force to foment “a popular uprising” within Iran.
That would be back to the future and the return of the CIA, but in a totally different situation from what it was 73 years ago when the CIA, in partnership with Britain’s MI6, staged the 1953 coup that ousted the government of then Prime Minister Mohammad Mosaddegh and reinforced the monarchical rule of Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, the Shah of Iran. The purported plan now is to arm and organize Kurdish forces in Iran and Iraq to engage the Iranian security forces and thereby to create internal spaces for Iranian civilians to come out to the streets and take over their country. Those who are entertaining this plan are also aware of its inherent dangers and cross-border and pan-ethnic implications for Iraq and even Turkey and Syria. Trump is reportedly aware of the plan but may not be bothered about its unintended consequences.
by Rajan Philips
Features
ARRIVING DOWN UNDER
We (my wife Esther, two children, Frances (two yrs six months) and Richard (six months), and myself left Katunayake airport for Australia at 4.30 pm on March 12, 1968, flying UTA French airlines.
The final day in Sri Lanka was quite a busy one, receiving our foreign exchange allocation only at 11.00 am that morning, then rushing back home for the trip to the airport. Having long worked as an engine driver for the CGR, it was my intention that our final trip in then Ceylon would be by train; as such we took the 12.45 pm train from Maradana and detrained at Katunayake station.
I had pre-arranged with the Station Master at Katunayake to have a fleet of taxis stand by to convey us (friends, relatives and ourselves) to the airport. The plane departed on schedule and from the moment it took off I was air sick all the way.
At Singapore there was a break of a few hours and I managed to get off into the transit lounge for a breath of fresh air which seemed to revive me. Esther and the children however, stayed on board the aircraft. Once the plane took off, I was again a victim to air sickness. Fortunately the seats behind had fallen vacant and I was able to bed down for the night. It was Esther who had a torrid journey, minding the two kids all the way.
I was woken up whilst the plane was flying over Central Australia and did see the morning glow light up the land. We arrived at Sydney in the morning and I was amused to see that as soon as the plane landed a man entered the plane carrying an aerosol can, the contents of which he sprayed around the interior of the plane. He was, I am told, the Quarantine Officer, carrying out his duties to ensure no ‘nasties’ entered the country.
Before we disembarked a pleasant surprise awaited us – a telegram from a pen friend of mine in Queensland welcoming us to Australia, was delivered to us. We had a two hour break at Sydney Airport before we caught our connecting flight to Melbourne (Essendon Airport).
It was a hot sunny day, the children were tired and grumpy and I called over at a food outlet to buy some drinks. All I had with me was a British pound sterling note. I gave them that and was given the change in Australian currency, which I had never seen before. I kept looking at it for a while, when the lady at the counter wanted to know what was wrong.
I told her I was migrating to Australia with my family and had never seen Australian currency before and was looking at it. She said, ‘please give it all back to me’, which I did. She then gave me back the pound note and said, “Welcome to Australia. I came here from Poland 10 years ago, I hope you settle in happily”. An auspicious start indeed to our life ‘Down Under’.
The family (my parents, brothers and sisters) were all gathered to meet us as I was the last member to migrate. The drive home was fascinating to say the least, the roads, bridges, lack of people on the roads, quiet traffic (with no cacophony of horns) made it all the more pleasant.
We were seeing television for the first time, and I thought to myself, how wonderful to ‘see the cinema come home’ as the day unfolded and we began to discover more delightful Australian customs and way of life. The following day, accompanied by a brother, I visited the local factories and businesses – Yakka, Ericsson’s, Nabisco Biscuits, Ford Motor Company – in search of employment.
I was flabbergasted to hear each one of them say I was too qualified for them and as such they could not employ me. This was indeed a new one for me. My brother explained, that they knew I was a new migrant and was looking for any type of employment to get settled, and then later on would obtain better employment commensurate with my qualifications. Thus all their training would have been in vain, not to mention the costs involved.
The following day I went to the City, accompanied by another brother. The train journey there and back, the ‘big smoke’ had me enthralled. We called at the recruitment office for both the Federal and State Public Services where forms were filled in and an application for employment lodged. Both agencies stated that it would be some months before I heard from them.
We next called in at the Australia Post recruitment centre as they were recruiting mail sorting officers and signed up with them to begin work the following Monday. The three months at the Postal Training School was interesting; one had to familiarize oneself with the various postal towns in districts and learn speed sorting. At the end of the three months I was given a bundle of 25 letters and had to sort it in a minute into postal districts, with only three errors allowed.
I was smart enough to work on the names in districts, in line with railway stations in various areas of the CGR – Matara, Badulla, Trinco, Batticaloa, KKS lines, thus being able to acquaint myself with the names quicker, and in the final test had only two mistakes.
As son as I had passed out from Postal School, I had a letter from the State Public Service offering me a clerical position (the choice was mine) at any of the following – the Department of Agriculture, Department of Health, Motor Registration Board, Grain Elevators Board and Fisheries & Wildlife Department. The last seemed very interesting and I picked it.
The postal authorities were unhappy to say the least when I resigned my position immediately after three months training (I now understood why I was earlier told that I was too qualified for employment). And so began a 25 year carrier with the State Public Service, which saw me serve in the same ministry, but various divisions – Fisheries & Wildlife, Conservation, Environment Protection Authority, Conservation & Natural Resources, Forest Commission, National Parks and Conservation & Environment.
Due to needs of supplementing my income, I obtained part time employment as an office cleaner with Brown’s Office Cleaning Services and worked for them for 15 years. They had contracts for cleaning offices in the City of Melbourne. A number of Sri Lankan immigrants worked for them supplementing their income. Thus began an extra stint of duty, leaving one’s day job, which ended t 4.30 pm.
Whilst the work was not too arduous the long hours were very demanding. I worked three hours each weekday evening, beginning at 5.00pm. By the time I reached home on public transport, it was well past 9.00pm and I was completely exhausted, especially during the summer months. Fortunately although it was part time work, I was also entitled to sick leave and annual leave.
Esther always wanted to remain at home and look after the kids. This was indeed a most demanding role for her, in that at one time we had the five kids attend five different Catholic schools in the area, which were graded senior, junior, high school (college) and then also segregated between boys and girls. She spent some 15 years driving them to the various schools and back.
One of the first things my father got me to do on arrival in Australia, was to fill in an application form with the Housing Commission of Victoria for a home of our own. This they told us would take anything up to three years before we were allocated one.
After an initial stay of four months with my parents at Broadmeadows, we decided to look for our own accommodation (a flat or house), but found that no one was keen to rent houses to people with children or pets. Finally we were able to locate a large flat (over a small shopping centre) in East Thornbury, where my parents lived when they moved to Australia.
The Estate Agent amazed me when I told them we had children saying, “we love children, yours are welcome.” When I said I had no Australian references, which everyone wanted, they said “If you were good enough for the Australian Government, you are good enough for us”. They were truly amazing and people with a heart.
We lived at East Thornbury for three years before we were given a choice of selecting a house from one of six being built at Broadmeadows West. This we did and this has been our home for the past 38 years. Initially it was difficult as it was a new area, with no street lighting and away from most shopping amenities, but over the years much development has taken place in and around the area.
At the early stages, we had most services delivered to the door – bread, milk, dry cleaning, fruit & vegetables, newspapers, the onion & potato man, mail etc. Over the years the services have dwindled (with progress) and today only the mail and newspapers are delivered.
After 25 years service with the State Public Service, I took the opportunity of ‘early retirement’ being offered by the public service and retired in April 1993.
by Victor Melder
Features
How Helmut Kohl braved the tsunami, P-TOMs and Kadirgamar assassination
This is the place to introduce the episode of ex-Chancellor Helmut Kohl of Germany. “This legendary unifier of post war Germany was at a small hotel in Hikkaduwa undergoing Ayurveda treatment when the Tsunami struck. A German Minister who owned a house in Hikkaduwa and visited Lanka regularly had recommended Ayurveda treatment to The Chancellor and head of her party- the Christian Democrats.
The German Embassy was at its wits end because Kohl had disappeared without a trace. They contacted us and we activated our Grama Sevaka network to find that Kohl had been taken to the safety of his home by a hotel employee. When we offered to send a helicopter to bring him to Colombo the Chancellor had replied that it was not necessary as he was well looked after by his host. He came by car the following day in order to thank CBK for her help.
I went to President’s House with Kohl who seemed quite relaxed in his coloured shirt, crumpled pants, a grey seersucker coat and rough boots. He was full of praise for the Sri Lankan people who had helped him and all the tourists in distress due to the Tsunami. Kohl said that he wanted to help in the rehabilitation of the south in his personal capacity. When he got back to Germany he set up a group of rich friends called “Friends of Helmut Kohl” who sent money to build a hospital in Mahamodera, Galle.
The money was lodged in the German Embassy. But the usually lethargic Health department dragged its feet on the construction work on the guise that the money was not sufficient for their grandiose hospital plans ignoring the value of the superb gesture by Kohl. Unfortunately he died before the completion of the project and therefore could not keep his pledge to come to Galle for its opening.
Later in time I was a member of a Parliamentary delegation led by Speaker Karu Jayasuriya which included Sampanthan, Rauf Hakeem, Anura Dissanayake and several others. I suggested to our group that we pay a belated tribute to Helmut Kohl who had died a few months previously. This was immediately welcomed by the parliamentarians and the organizers of the tour and we jointly paid our heartfelt tribute to a great friend of Sri Lanka who was an eye witness to the success of our rehabilitation effort.
Post Tsunami Operational Management Structure (P-TOMS)
The Tsunami was particularly harsh on the eastern and northern coastline because it was directly in the way of the giant waves created in Indonesia and deflected to our shores. It also created a transformation of the political scene and the nature of the war. The LTTE had invested considerable resources in building up its “Sea Tigers”. They wanted control of the northern seas in order to increase their supply of weapons and ammunition. The Sea Tigers established a presence in east Thailand so that arms could be purchased from Cambodia, Vietnam and Thailand. The fighting in the Indo-China theatre was over and the cut rate weapons market was flourishing.
Our embassy in Bangkok had an army officer who was monitoring terrorist activities but he was helpless because Thai officials in the lower echelons were in the pay of the LTTE. In addition to that problem, the mediocre officials of our Foreign Ministry were no match for the determined LTTEers one of whom had married an influential Thai lady. With money coming in from expatriates they had even set up a shipping line which was so well run that they could finance weapons buying for the LTTE with its profits.
We had received intelligence that the LTTE was preparing for a major “Sea Tiger” operation from their base in Mullaitivu. This base area concept shows the advanced thinking of the LTTE which was attempting – then unsuccessfully – to even manufacture a low cost submarine. Fortunately for us the Tsunami wiped out the base of the “Sea Tigers” together with many of their assets such as boats, proto-type submarines and diving gear.
True to form they sent signals for talks which they had earlier broken. Their diaspora had mounted a campaign to collect funds for rehabilitation. At this stage the UN got into the act and with the World Bank and IMF persuaded the CBK government to consider a power sharing arrangement principally for the rehabilitation of the North and East. It was to be called P-TOMS. CBK appointed Jayantha Dhanapala as the head of SCOPP – a secretariat to coordinate the relief effort in the North and East. The World Bank appointed Peter Harrold, its representative in Colombo, to coordinate the P-TOMS effort with SCOPP.
Estimates were made by SCOPP regarding the amount necessary for the rehabilitation of the North and East. This budget became the talking point of several successive regimes who promised to allocate such funds in exchange for Tamil votes in the North. Mahinda Rajapaksa’s agents held this figure as a bait to promote a boycott of the Presidential poll in 2005 which threw the election which was in Ranil’s pocket to MR thereby changing the destiny of the LTTE as well of the country. [MR cleared the 50 percent hurdle by only 25,000 votes].
Perhaps to strengthen the push for P-TOMS, Kofi Annan the Secretary General of the UN arrived with a large contingent of staffers and I was asked to meet and greet him in Katunayake. We gave Annan a grand welcome but he seemed distracted and was only interested in getting his Swedish wife who was hanging back, into the spotlight. CBK had several discussions with him but we ran into a snag in that he wanted to visit the North and meet Prabhakaran.
Perhaps some of the big powers had got to him as he was in the midst of a scandal about his son from his first marriage who was facing charges of corruption. The scandal was rocking UN headquarters. Annan who was elevated from his earlier status as a UN functionary to satisfy African members, was according to several biographers, indebted to the west and could not end his tenure to the satisfaction of the majority of the UN membership.
CBK, already under pressure for mishandling the P-TOMS campaign, was adamant that Annan should not meet the LTTE which would have given the terrorists parity of status with the SL state. Since such an interpretation was circulated by virtually all political parties in the South she was pushed to a very difficult position. After much discussion Annan settled for a helicopter tour of the North. I found that he was a weak leader who was led by his nose by Mark Mallock Brown – his chief of staff, who had been in charge of UN operations even during its disastrous forays in the Congo.
Mallock Brown was later identified as a camp follower of the West who compromised the credibility of the UN. I have memories of Mallock Brown holding forth on their next step here while Annan and Dhanapala were mere passive listeners. This Western initiative of P-TOMS did not finally see the light of day. But it split the ruling coalition of the PA and JVP irrevocably and Mahinda Rajapaksa burnished his credentials as an opponent of the project. He became popular with the PA and its allied parties over and above CBK.
When the P-TOMS project was to be placed before Parliament Mahinda as Prime Minister refused to present it on the floor of the House. CBK was too weak to dismiss him partly because Lakshman Kadirgamar also was a strong opponent of P-TOMS. Instead she got Maithripala Sirisena to present the proposal. But the Opposition which was joined by the JVP including its functioning Ministers, took to the streets. The JVP members demonstrated and disturbed the proceedings from the well of the House and then resigned “en masse” from the government putting its majority in jeopardy. Mahinda’s anti-P-TOMS stand endeared him to the JVP, which had earlier preferred Kadirgamar to him, and helped him to garner votes which went a long way in ensuring his ultimate victory. He had become so powerful that CBK had no option but to accommodate him.
Assassination of Lakshman Kadirgamar
Another blow was struck at CBK and the government by the I TTE when they assassinated Lakshman Kadirgamar near the swimming pool of his house. He had a successful kidney transplant in India – with a Buddhist monk from Balangoda donating a kidney – and was asked to swim regularly as exercise by his doctors. I knew of this arrangement because when we travelled together he always asked the Foreign Office to put him tip in a hotel with a heated swimming pool.
He was about to enter the water in the swimming pool when a LTTE sniper shot him through a window in a neighbourhood flat. This dastardly crime wits condemned unanimously by the international community. India sent her Foreign Minister to attend the funeral. Ksdirgamar’s death brought CBK’s Government to the brink of collapse. The JVP though leaving the Government respected LK and paid a tribute to him by arranging for their leaders to follow his hearse on foot to Kanatte.
It must be mentioned here that LK nearly pipped Mahinda for the post of PM in 2004. He had the backing of the JVP who wanted CBK to appoint LK and in the alternative appoint Maithripala Sirisena as PM. He was also supported by India but CBK was afraid that Mahinda will break up the party if he was deprived of the Premiership. After LK’s demise she undertook a mini reshuffle and Anura Bandaranaike had his ambition of being Foreign Minister realized.
To succeed him as Minister of Industries and Foreign Investment she appointed me in addition to my portfolio of Minister of Finance. Arjuna Ranatunga was the Deputy Minister of Industries and I left most of the administrative work to him. When we had an investment promotion meeting in Delhi I invited Arjuna and Aravinda de Silva to be our delegates and they stole the show among the cricket mad Indian investors. All the tables at dinners hosted by us were taken and we had many friends appealing to us to get them reservations even at the last minute.
We had such good relations that I was invited to take part in popular TV talk shows. I remember that Shekhar Gupta invited me for a discussion on our health services with Kajol – the top Hindi film actress who was brand ambassador for Narendra Modis “clean Bharat” campaign. She was a charming young lady who recounted her enjoyable stay in Sri Lanka when she accompanied her mother Tanuja who was shooting a film in Colombo with Vijaya Kumaratunga as her co-star.
After LKs murder the fear of the LTTE was so strong that CBK could not even attend the funeral ceremony. PM Mahinda Rajapaksa represented her. This death was a bitter blow to me because as an old Trinitian friend he would always consult me on party matters. I still have a letter he wrote to me about a coffee t able book on the art of Stanley Kirinde which he sponsored in honour of our mutual college friend.
(This book is available at the Vijitha Yapa bookshops)
(Excerpted from vol. 3 of the Sarath Amunugama autobiography)
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