Features

Culture Shock in Iraq

Published

2 years ago

2024/05/12

Thilina Walpola

At my first Food & Beverage Management meeting (I am in the grey suit) with team leaders

Part Two PASSIONS OF A GLOBAL HOTELIER

Dr. Chandana (Chandi) Jayawardena DPhil
President – Chandi J. Associates Inc. Consulting, Canada
Founder & Administrator – Global Hospitality Forum
chandij@sympatico.ca

First Impressions of Iraq

My first impressions of Iraq were positive. Upon arrival at Saddam International Airport, the opulence and modernity juxtaposed against the backdrop of a country rebuilding itself after a war. The warm reception and luxurious accommodations at Hotel Babylon Oberoi spoke volumes about the resilience and hospitality of the Iraqi people. The five-star standards of Hotel Babylon Oberoi, and facilities provided to my family at a corner suite facing Tigris River, were all positive. I was pleasantly surprised as these observations exceeded my expectations.

A tour of Baghdad for new managers of Hotel Babylon Oberoi arriving from Sri Lanka, during our second day, produced more pleasant surprises. A string of five-star hotels in Baghdad, managed by global hotel chains such as Sheraton, Le Meridien, Melia and Novotel, provided competition for Oberoi. Although wars always affect tourism negatively, wars also contribute to hotel revenues with new customers as military advisers from other countries, arm dealers, spies, mercenaries, international agencies, media representatives, reporters, journalists, etc. We were pleased to note that the best hotel in Baghdad was the 450-room Al Rasheed, and the best hotel outside Baghdad was the Nineveh Oberoi Hotel, a 262-room, five-star resort in Mosul overlooking the Tigris River. Both Al Rasheed and Nineveh Oberoi, were sister hotels of Hotel Babylon Oberoi.

The emergence of Iraq’s tourism and hospitality scene, with a plethora of international hotel chains vying for prominence, painted a picture of economic revitalization amidst the remnants of war. The three Oberoi hotels in Iraq managed a total of over 1,000 five-star rooms and Oberoi was the key player in re-building tourism in the post-war Iraq in 1989. Madan Misra, my boss, and the Oberoi Group (operator of 30 luxury hotels in six countries, with head office in New Delhi, India, founded in 1934), had good connections with the Iraqi government and the State Organization for Tourism in Iraq, which owned all hotels in the country.

Two of my Ceylon Hotel School colleagues, senior to me, worked at Al Rasheed. Nirmo Thambapillai was the Food & Beverage Manager for Banquet Operation, and Kamal Hapuwatte was the Training Manager. Another friend of mine (whom I met during an assignment at Muscat Sheraton in Oman in 1988 as the Guest Executive Chef for a Sri Lankan food festival), Priyantha Ratnasinghe, was the Assistant Financial Controller at Baghdad Sheraton. The camaraderie among colleagues from Sri Lanka added a comforting familiarity in an unfamiliar land. We met frequently during our free time.

When my wife and son joined me, they were warmly welcomed by everybody. My son, Marlon was only three years old and was the only child staying at the hotel. After he commenced going to the international school in Baghdad, every day when he returned from school, the staff inquired what he had learned. They often addressed Marlon and me as ‘Habibi’ (my dear or darling) and my wife as ‘Ainee’ (my eyes).

We soon realised that this type of loving terms are common in addressing each other in Iraq. People in Iraq are among the friendliest I have met during my travels to one hundred countries. After each welcoming handshake, most Iraqi men touched their chest expressing that the greetings came from heart. I loved that gesture so much, I practiced that from the time I settled down in Iraq, and in later years whenever I travelled to the Middle East for work and leisure.

The cultural diversity within Iraq, from the majority traditional Islamic customs to the cosmopolitan Christian communities, offered a multifaceted glimpse into the nation’s identity. Islam (approximately 55% Shia and 35% Sunni) was and still is the main religion in Iraq, and there was a Kurdish minority following the ancient religion Zoroastrianism. In 1989 most of the 1.5 million Christians (around 9% of the population) in Iraq lived in or around Baghdad.

They were far more westernized than other Iraqis. The Christian Iraqis generally provided good business to restaurants, bars, night clubs and casinos in Baghdad. The end of the war was also a period of celebration and enjoyment. It was good for the hotel and food and beverage businesses. I was surprised to see many beautiful Iraqi women dressed in western clothes and patronising the bars, night club and casino at Hotel Babylon Oberoi. Unfortunately, the Christian population in Iraq has shrunk to 1% of the current total national population of 47 million in 2024.

A get-together of Sri Lankan hoteliers in Baghdad, at my suite at Hotel Babylon Oberoi

Navigating Challenges

The transition from initial optimism to navigating cultural nuances brought forth unexpected challenges and a string of culture shocks in Iraq. From adapting to the ubiquity of firearms, to learning the rhythm of work interrupted by prayer times, each obstacle became a lesson in understanding and respect. I treated these challenges as opportunities to learn the local attitudes, aspirations, behaviour, beliefs, customs, and culture.

Violation of ‘No-Gun Policy’

A major culture shock for us was getting used to the fact that most men in Iraq openly carried firearms. During my orientation week, I was taken around Babylon Oberoi by Mohamed Abdullah, the Iraqi Human Resources Manager, and T. P. Singh (TP), Indian Assistant Food & Beverage Manager, who was my deputy. On seeing hundreds of numbered pigeon holes at the entrance to Githara Night Club, I inquired what they wee used for. “Acha! Mr. Jayawardena, those are for carefully storing surrendered guns by our patrons, until they leave the night club. As Iraqis have a habit of shooting their guns at air in celebration when happy and drunk, we have a no-gun policy at Githara,” TP explained. “We don’t want them to destroy our expensive Baccarat chandeliers imported from France,” he added with a cheeky smile.

When I asked him, “Do all our customers adhere to hotel’s no-gun policy at the night club?” he was honest in his answer: “All but one group – President Saddam Hussein’s eldest son Uday and his gang of murderous bodyguards, who come to Githara every Thursday night!” That warning reminded me that I was assigned the role of the duty manager every Thursday night till Githara closed around 4:00 am or until Uday Hussein was ready to leave.

Over-boiling in Kitchens

During my orientation in the kitchens, I was somewhat taken back to notice some kitchen staff not bothering to reduce flames in the hot kitchen during the prayer times. More religious employees simply stop work, irrespective of the stage of their cooking tasks, when the bells rang in the nearby mosques. It was an unwritten law that no one should give work directions to employees praying for 10 to 15 minutes at a time. Non-Islamic members of the kitchen brigade, diplomatically reduced fires gently to ensure there was no over-boiling and over-cooking during the prayer times. I quickly got used to that custom. It is essential that expatriates understand, accept, and respect local customs and culture, particularly relating to religion. They must also quickly learn to ensure that there are no interruptions to the flow of work and quality of products and services.

Being Kissed by Men

During my orientation, there was an important wedding at the hotel’s ballroom. The bride’s father was a minister in President Saddam Hussein’s cabinet, and we wanted to ensure that everything was handled exactly as requested by the minister. I showed up a few times at the banquet hall during thereception. Out of 500 invitees, about half were beautifully dressed women who all sat on one half of the hall. When they made a frequent loud and long, wavering, high-pitched vocal sound, I was baffled. Our Egyptian Banquet Manager, Altaf, realizing that it was a new experience for me, said: “Boss, that’s zaghārīt, an ululation to honour the new couple.”

The other half of the hall was occupied by males, most of whom smoked, and held a Misbaha (a string of 99 beads traditionally used during prayer). When the minister saw me he was in a happy mood. He hugged me and gave four kisses on my cheeks. I nearly pushed him away, but when Altaf quickly gestured me to reciprocate, I hugged the minister in return. After learning that men hugging each other is common in Iraq, I too became an expert at it. Understanding the importance of cultural sensitivity and adaptation is a key for success in a global career.

ithara Night Club at Hotel Babylon Oberoi

Removal of Saddam’s Twin Photograph

I was given a large office. My secretary was Fatima, a very polite young Iraqi lady with an office next to mine. My first impression of my office was that everything except my desk and chair were green, and there were two large, identical, black and white framed photographs of Saddam Hussein hung on two walls. I politely suggested: “Fatima, do you mind transferring one of these photos of His Excellency to another executive office?”

The rest of the day, I could not locate Fatima. She eventually returned after several hours later looking nervous and pale, and was speechless. When I inquired what happened to her, she signalled me to come out of the office, and whispered to me, “Mr. Jay, removal of a photograph of the President will be reported to the Baath party head office as a major insult and there will be serious repercussions to both you and me.” I immediately changed my mind and requested Fatima to forget about my suggestion and not to mention it to anyone. During my turn in Baghdad, every day I looked at those two large photographs. I got used to it and realised that Sadam Hussein was a handsome man.

Wire Tapped Offices

There were rumours among other expatriate managers that all our offices were wire tapped. On hearing that any discussion in any executive office of a hotel can be heard at the Baath party head office, I laughed saying that it can’t be true. However, I decided to be extra careful in the future. The undercurrent of surveillance and espionage added an element of intrigue to daily life, with the realization that conversations held within the confines of our offices might not be as private as initially assumed.

Al Rasheed Hotel in Baghdad

Spies at Apartments

When I asked TP about various plainclothed men keeping a close eye on hotel activities, but not acting as customers, I was surprised of his answer. “Acha! Mr. Jayawardena, those are secret police and at times, spies,” TP said in a relaxed tone. He had been in Iraq for a few years and knew the ropes. When I asked him whom they spy on, he said, “Us, the foreign managers.” Then he became a bit jovial, tapped on my shoulder in a friendly gesture, and said: “welcome to Baghdad, Mr. Jayawardena!” Soon I realised that there were spies everywhere. No one knew who was spying on whom. This was common in most countries led by iron-fisted dictators. The subtle yet persistent presence of secret police underscored the complexities of operating in a society under scrutiny.

Every week, Friday was my off day. Usually on Fridays my family went on full day outings or visited the Hapuwatte family living at the executive quarters of Al Rasheed Hotel. At their apartment we played cards, had a couple of drinks, had a home-cooked Sri Lankan meal, and spoke about our memorable Ceylon Hotel School years. On the first Friday we went out, when we returned, my wife said “Someone has been in our suite.

The books and magazines we left on the coffee table have been re-arranged! Can’t be housekeeping staff, as I have told them not to do cleaning work on Fridays.” On checking with the General Manager’s wife, we found out that it was the normal practice for Iraqi secret police to visit expatriate manager’s apartments when they are away and leave some clues to show us that they have visited! When my wife was upset about it, I told her: “Shani, don’t worry, unless we lost any of our belongings. When in Rome, do as the Romans do.”

Initial Optimism and Challenge in Iraq

Despite these challenges, I commenced my work optimistically. My senior team leaders in the food & beverage division agreed with me to organize regular food festivals, open new restaurants with exciting new menus, and do lots of training. I was able to motivate the team and win the support of our regular customers.

The collaborative spirit and innovative mindset fostered a sense of unity and purpose amidst uncertainty. Executive Chef O. P. Khantwal (OP) became my right-hand man while implementing our innovations for a new era. OP was a well-trained senior chef of the Oberoi Group and the first chef I worked with who had an MA degree qualification. OP knew the Oberoi culture very well and soon became a loyal advisor to me.

As my team was settling down and developing our new business plans, we were faced with a shocker. The bureaucracy and red tape in Iraq resulted in delays of the work permit process for new workers. We were asked by authorities to stop work until all work permit final approvals are received. As a result, we spent two unproductive weeks, without working. I decided to use that challenge as an opportunity to explore Iraq as a tourist.

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Misinterpreting President Dissanayake on National Reconciliation

Published

2 hours ago

2026/02/10

Sahan Weerasooriya

President Dissanayake

President Anura Kumara Dissanayake has been investing his political capital in going to the public to explain some of the most politically sensitive and controversial issues. At a time when easier political choices are available, the president is choosing the harder path of confronting ethnic suspicion and communal fears. There are three issues in particular on which the president’s words have generated strong reactions. These are first with regard to Buddhist pilgrims going to the north of the country with nationalist motivations. Second is the controversy relating to the expansion of the Tissa Raja Maha Viharaya, a recently constructed Buddhist temple in Kankesanturai which has become a flashpoint between local Tamil residents and Sinhala nationalist groups. Third is the decision not to give the war victory a central place in the Independence Day celebrations.

Even in the opposition, when his party held only three seats in parliament, Anura Kumara Dissanayake took his role as a public educator seriously. He used to deliver lengthy, well researched and easily digestible speeches in parliament. He continues this practice as president. It can be seen that his statements are primarily meant to elevate the thinking of the people and not to win votes the easy way. The easy way to win votes whether in Sri Lanka or elsewhere in the world is to rouse nationalist and racist sentiments and ride that wave. Sri Lanka’s post independence political history shows that narrow ethnic mobilisation has often produced short term electoral gains but long term national damage.

Sections of the opposition and segments of the general public have been critical of the president for taking these positions. They have claimed that the president is taking these positions in order to obtain more Tamil votes or to appease minority communities. The same may be said in reverse of those others who take contrary positions that they seek the Sinhala votes. These political actors who thrive on nationalist mobilisation have attempted to portray the president’s statements as an abandonment of the majority community. The president’s actions need to be understood within the larger framework of national reconciliation and long term national stability.

Reconciler’s Duty

When the president referred to Buddhist pilgrims from the south going to the north, he was not speaking about pilgrims visiting long established Buddhist heritage sites such as Nagadeepa or Kandarodai. His remarks were directed at a specific and highly contentious development, the recently built Buddhist temple in Kankesanturai and those built elsewhere in the recent past in the north and east. The temple in Kankesanturai did not emerge from the religious needs of a local Buddhist community as there is none in that area. It has been constructed on land that was formerly owned and used by Tamil civilians and which came under military occupation as a high security zone. What has made the issue of the temple particularly controversial is that it was established with the support of the security forces.

The controversy has deepened because the temple authorities have sought to expand the site from approximately one acre to nearly fourteen acres on the basis that there was a historic Buddhist temple in that area up to the colonial period. However, the Tamil residents of the area fear that expansion would further displace surrounding residents and consolidate a permanent Buddhist religious presence in the present period in an area where the local population is overwhelmingly Hindu. For many Tamils in Kankesanturai, the issue is not Buddhism as a religion but the use of religion as a vehicle for territorial assertion and demographic changes in a region that bore the brunt of the war. Likewise, there are other parts of the north and east where other temples or places of worship have been established by the military personnel in their camps during their war-time occupation and questions arise regarding the future when these camps are finally closed.

There are those who have actively organised large scale pilgrimages from the south to make the Tissa temple another important religious site. These pilgrimages are framed publicly as acts of devotion but are widely perceived locally as demonstrations of dominance. Each such visit heightens tension, provokes protest by Tamil residents, and risks confrontation. For communities that experienced mass displacement, military occupation and land loss, the symbolism of a state backed religious structure on contested land with the backing of the security forces is impossible to separate from memories of war and destruction. A president committed to reconciliation cannot remain silent in the face of such provocations, however uncomfortable it may be to challenge sections of the majority community.

High-minded leadership

The controversy regarding the president’s Independence Day speech has also generated strong debate. In that speech the president did not refer to the military victory over the LTTE and also did not use the term “war heroes” to describe soldiers. For many Sinhala nationalist groups, the absence of these references was seen as an attempt to diminish the sacrifices of the armed forces. The reality is that Independence Day means very different things to different communities. In the north and east the same day is marked by protest events and mourning and as a “Black Day”, symbolising the consolidation of a state they continue to experience as excluding them and not empathizing with the full extent of their losses.

By way of contrast, the president’s objective was to ensure that Independence Day could be observed as a day that belonged to all communities in the country. It is not correct to assume that the president takes these positions in order to appease minorities or secure electoral advantage. The president is only one year into his term and does not need to take politically risky positions for short term electoral gains. Indeed, the positions he has taken involve confronting powerful nationalist political forces that can mobilise significant opposition. He risks losing majority support for his statements. This itself indicates that the motivation is not electoral calculation.

President Dissanayake has recognized that Sri Lanka’s long term political stability and economic recovery depend on building trust among communities that once peacefully coexisted and then lived through decades of war. Political leadership is ultimately tested by the willingness to say what is necessary rather than what is politically expedient. The president’s recent interventions demonstrate rare national leadership and constitute an attempt to shift public discourse away from ethnic triumphalism and toward a more inclusive conception of nationhood. Reconciliation cannot take root if national ceremonies reinforce the perception of victory for one community and defeat for another especially in an internal conflict.

BY Jehan Perera

Features

Recovery of LTTE weapons

Published

2 hours ago

2026/02/10

Sahan Weerasooriya

Sri Lanka Navy in action

I have read a newspaper report that the Special Task Force of Sri Lanka Police, with help of Military Intelligence, recovered three buried yet well-preserved 84mm Carl Gustaf recoilless rocket launchers used by the LTTE, in the Kudumbimalai area, Batticaloa.

These deadly weapons were used by the LTTE SEA TIGER WING to attack the Sri Lanka Navy ships and craft in 1990s. The first incident was in February 1997, off Iranativu island, in the Gulf of Mannar.

Admiral Cecil Tissera took over as Commander of the Navy on 27 January, 1997, from Admiral Mohan Samarasekara.

The fight against the LTTE was intensified from 1996 and the SLN was using her Vanguard of the Navy, Fast Attack Craft Squadron, to destroy the LTTE’s littoral fighting capabilities. Frequent confrontations against the LTTE Sea Tiger boats were reported off Mullaitivu, Point Pedro and Velvetiturai areas, where SLN units became victorious in most of these sea battles, except in a few incidents where the SLN lost Fast Attack Craft.

Carl Gustaf recoilless rocket launchers

The intelligence reports confirmed that the LTTE Sea Tigers was using new recoilless rocket launchers against aluminium-hull FACs, and they were deadly at close quarter sea battles, but the exact type of this weapon was not disclosed.

The following incident, which occurred in February 1997, helped confirm the weapon was Carl Gustaf 84 mm Recoilless gun!

DATE: 09TH FEBRUARY, 1997, morning 0600 hrs.

LOCATION: OFF IRANATHIVE.

FACs: P 460 ISRAEL BUILT, COMMANDED BY CDR MANOJ JAYESOORIYA

P 452 CDL BUILT, COMMANDED BY LCDR PM WICKRAMASINGHE (ON TEMPORARY COMMAND. PROPER OIC LCDR N HEENATIGALA)

OPERATED FROM KKS.

CONFRONTED WITH LTTE ATTACK CRAFT POWERED WITH FOUR 250 HP OUT BOARD MOTORS.

TARGET WAS DESTROYED AND ONE LTTE MEMBER WAS CAPTURED.

LEADING MARINE ENGINEERING MECHANIC OF THE FAC CAME UP TO THE BRIDGE CARRYING A PROJECTILE WHICH WAS FIRED BY THE LTTE BOAT, DURING CONFRONTATION, WHICH PENETRATED THROUGH THE FAC’s HULL, AND ENTERED THE OICs CABIN (BETWEEN THE TWO BUNKS) AND HIT THE AUXILIARY ENGINE ROOM DOOR AND HAD FALLEN DOWN WITHOUT EXPLODING. THE ENGINE ROOM DOOR WAS HEAVILY DAMAGED LOOSING THE WATER TIGHT INTEGRITY OF THE FAC.

THE PROJECTILE WAS LATER HANDED OVER TO THE NAVAL WEAPONS EXPERTS WHEN THE FACs RETURNED TO KKS. INVESTIGATIONS REVEALED THE WEAPON USED BY THE ENEMY WAS 84 mm CARL GUSTAF SHOULDER-FIRED RECOILLESS GUN AND THIS PROJECTILE WAS AN ILLUMINATER BOMB OF ONE MILLION CANDLE POWER. BUT THE ATTACKERS HAS FAILED TO REMOVE THE SAFETY PIN, THEREFORE THE BOMB WAS NOT ACTIVATED.

Sea Tigers

Carl Gustaf 84 mm recoilless gun was named after Carl Gustaf Stads Gevärsfaktori, which, initially, produced it. Sweden later developed the 84mm shoulder-fired recoilless gun by the Royal Swedish Army Materiel Administration during the second half of 1940s as a crew served man- portable infantry support gun for close range multi-role anti-armour, anti-personnel, battle field illumination, smoke screening and marking fire.

It is confirmed in Wikipedia that Carl Gustaf Recoilless shoulder-fired guns were used by the only non-state actor in the world – the LTTE – during the final Eelam War.

It is extremely important to check the batch numbers of the recently recovered three launchers to find out where they were produced and other details like how they ended up in Batticaloa, Sri Lanka?

By Admiral Ravindra C. Wijegunaratne
WV, RWP and Bar, RSP, VSV, USP, NI (M) (Pakistan), ndc, psn, Bsc (Hons) (War Studies) (Karachi) MPhil (Madras)
Former Navy Commander and Former Chief of Defence Staff
Former Chairman, Trincomalee Petroleum Terminals Ltd
Former Managing Director Ceylon Petroleum Corporation
Former High Commissioner to Pakistan

Features

Yellow Beatz … a style similar to K-pop!

Published

2 hours ago

2026/02/10

Sahan Weerasooriya

Yes, get ready to vibe with Yellow Beatz, Sri Lanka’s awesome girl group, keen to take Sri Lankan music to the world with a style similar to K-pop!

With high-energy beats and infectious hooks, these talented ladies are here to shake up the music scene.

Think bold moves, catchy hooks, and, of course, spicy versions of old Sinhala hits, and Yellow Beatz is the package you won’t want to miss!

According to a spokesman for the group, Yellow Beatz became a reality during the Covid period … when everyone was stuck at home, in lockdown.

“First we interviewed girls, online, and selected a team that blended well, as four voices, and then started rehearsals. One of the cover songs we recorded, during those early rehearsals, unexpectedly went viral on Facebook. From that moment onward, we continued doing cover songs, and we received a huge response. Through that, we were able to bring back some beautiful Sri Lankan musical creations that were being forgotten, and introduce them to the new generation.”

The team members, I am told, have strong musical skills and with proper training their goal is to become a vocal group recognised around the world.

Believe me, their goal, they say, is not only to take Sri Lanka’s name forward, in the music scene, but to bring home a Grammy Award, as well.

“We truly believe we can achieve this with the love and support of everyone in Sri Lanka.”

The year 2026 is very special for Yellow Beatz as they have received an exceptional opportunity to represent Sri Lanka at the World Championships of Performing Arts in the USA.

Under the guidance of Chris Raththara, the Director for Sri Lanka, and with the blessings of all Sri Lankans, the girls have a great hope that they can win this milestone.

“We believe this will be a moment of great value for us as Yellow Beatz, and also for all Sri Lankans, and it will be an important inspiration for the future of our country.”

Along with all the preparation for the event in the USA, they went on to say they also need to manage their performances, original song recordings, and everything related.

The year 2026 is very special for Yellow Beatz

“We have strong confidence in ourselves and in our sincere intentions, because we are a team that studies music deeply, researches within the field, and works to take the uniqueness of Sri Lankan identity to the world.”

At present, they gather at the Voices Lab Academy, twice a week, for new creations and concert rehearsals.

This project was created by Buddhika Dayarathne who is currently working as a Pop Vocal lecturer at SLTC Campus. Voice Lab Academy is also his own private music academy and Yellow Beatz was formed through that platform.

Buddhika is keen to take Sri Lankan music to the world with a style similar to K-Pop and Yellow Beatz began as a result of that vision. With that same aim, we all work together as one team.

“Although it was a little challenging for the four of us girls to work together at first, we have united for our goal and continue to work very flexibly and with dedication. Our parents and families also give their continuous blessings and support for this project,” Rameesha, Dinushi, Newansa and Risuri said.

Last year, Yellow Beatz released their first original song, ‘Ihirila’ , and with everything happening this year, they are also preparing for their first album.